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Comments
Byron
Go by what your car tells you, not the dealer.
If it squeals mostly at start up, it could be the belt. But if it squeals even after a while driving, I would have the belt tensioner checked out. If the auto tensioner is working like it should, the belt should not slip (unless there was some kind of fluid spilled on it to make it slippery). My educated guess is the tensioner.
From just reading his post (I guess I overlooked the title) it seemed like they were only having issue with the radio illumination. I was just pointing out that you aren't married to it considering you can fit in an aftermarket solution with some effort. If your HVAC controls are affected as well because of the shared panel arrangement that is obviously another story.
Edit: I see the variant in the EX V6 is closely tied together...that sucks. $800 to replace a unit that only needs (in reality) a resistor replacement is pretty insane though. Just take that radio in to a competent electronics repair shop and have them go at it with the posted instructions if you can't - out of warranty only obviously.
Perhaps I'm missing something though, it's damn late here.
http://www.autotoys.com/x/catalog/HONDA_ACCORD_20032006_T2_TOP_MOUNT_TURBO2_DASH- _KIT_DUAL_p_5065.html
....ez....
Changing out 3 quarts of transmission fluid will certainly NOT hurt anything, and your transmission might even shift smoother afterwards.
As far as the weak battery idea, the car cranks just fine with no noticeable battery issues. Could that still be the problem? It is the original battery. Again, I bought the car new in November of 2003 - It has been very well maintained and has 120,000 miles.
Thanks for your input - I do appreciate it!
for a loose connection before messing with the e-brake
switch.
So my 2004 Accord is now at 112,679 miles. I bought it back in April, 2004 so a little over 4 years now, averaging 25k-ish a year in mileage.
Nothing too interesting in the beginning... at 10k miles, $81.75 for a 10k service at the dealer (oil change/tire rotation/checks - in retrospect, a terrible waste of money)... at 18k, a jiffy lube visit w/ penzoil 5W20 for $35.. at 23k miles, a $19 oil change at Dealer...
At 28k miles, I bought the lifetime alignment from Firestone for $169-$50 (they gave me a $50 discount since I had lifetime alignment on my previous IS 300 and it got totalled right after). They would also do the courtesy checks for free that Honda would charge me for. Still didn't like paying $20 for the tire rotation here though.
At 42k miles, I started synthetic oil in my car and started doing a better job of going 10k miles in between oil changes like the manual says to do. (Although my first purchase was Mobil 1 5W30 and looking at the manual, should have been 5W20). I took the oil to the dealer and got the oil change done for $11.81. My next visit to the dealer at 52k miles was $16.56 for the oil change for some reason, but still not too bad.
The highlight of my Accord ownership came for me at 57k miles when I popped a tire on a curb. I already had two of my rear tires going bad anyways so when I saw a rebate on buying 4 bridgestone tires at the time, I decided to replace all 4 and just keep one as back up. I researched on Tire Rack and saw the Potenza G009s were getting good reviews. I got my local Firestone to match the price of Tire RackTaking the price of the tire down from $95.99 x 4 tires = 383.96 - $91.96 = fees = $309.80. And I got a $50 rebate for all 4 tires. I took these tires down to Wal Mart and mounted them for $55.85 total and the best perk was lifetime rotation and balance.
Since then, pretty much every 10k miles, I follow the same routine. I buy Mobil 1 oil, get the oil change done at the dealer for $15ish, go across the street to Wal-mart, get my tires rotated and balanced for free, and then go to Firestone, and get my lifetime alignment done.
I recently got a card in the mail from Firestone making me a Complete Rewards Gold member. Some of the stuff is kind of decent though - free Tire Rotation, Electrical System Check, Alignment Check, and Brake Inspection. I might consider taking Wal-mart out of my routine now and just paying ($20?) to have my tires balanced with the free rotation.
Also, I spent some time with the manual today - your'e supposed to do the oil replacement every 10k and the filter every 20k. I didn't realize that. I could have maybe saved some bucks if I said specifically what I wanted, but then again, I wonder if the oil change place would be good about letting me know that they in fact replaced the filter.
Any thoughts on anything?
Remember anything?
So though I myself can't really give too detailed a comparison between the G009 and my OEMs, I do know a lot of others had and they were favorable towards the G009s.
It's hard to justify paying $3k for an accessary to a car that is paid in full. What exactly is the head unit the dealer advise you was broken?
Anyway, sorry to lead astray on the topic, and thanks again.
I had recently made a post on my father's CR-V over here:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef026c3/5875
In the post, I was asking what I should do for my 30k on the CR-V because it was so confusing to figure out what to do based on the manual.
Looking at the Helpful link I got in this post:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef026c3/5876
from yankeefan2:
http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/maintenance.do?step=step2&year=2007&make=Hond- a&model=CR-V&style=EX-L+4dr+SUV+w%2FNavigation+%282.4L+4cyl+5A%29&mileage=30000&- engine=4INAG2.4&transmission=AUTOMATIC&zip=02809&synpartner=edmunds
It seems the main parts I need to be concerned with are air filter and cabin filter (don't need to worry about oil change right now because I got it done a month ago/2k miles).
The edmunds link suggests:
$45.08 for the cabin air filter
$26.08 for the air filter
Elroy's suggested site has the following:
Micron Air brand Pollen Filter
Also called A/C or Cabin filters.
Price $15.95
&
Engine Air Filter
Genuine Factory Honda CRV Engine Air Filter
Price $19.99
I'm thinking I should grab some Honda CR-V filters from here too. I have to go through my vehicle history to see what the costs I've been paying in my oil changes I've gotten done. I would grab some oil filters for my accord, but since I use Mobil 1 Synthetic oil in my '04 Accord, I'm wondering if maybe I should get Mobil 1 filters instead.
Thanks elroy5.
I had also made a pretty detailed post over on the Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair thread, when I was asking what I should do about my father's 30k service. In my post, I briefly discussed my maintenance history on my 2004 Honda Accord as point to illustrate how I was feeling it was easier to figure out what to do for maintenance on the Honda Accords.
In my post, I had said this:
So I took a printout to Firestone actually and got everything done (although I should have looked at the manual maybe more closely - I also got a transmission fluid flush done at this 90k service and should have done it actually at 120k.)
To which blueiedgod replied with this:
Honda issued a warning to shops not to use Transmission flush machines on Hondamatics. Since Honda Automatic is a greatly different transmission than the rest of the automatics, it is essentially an automated manual, power flushes could destroy the transmission. Honda recommends 3 successive fluid exchanges with 10 miles driving in between.
I also doubt that Firestone used Honda ATF Z-1 fluid to flush it with. This creates second potential problem, since Honda ATF Z-1 is not your typical ATF fluid. It is made by Showa oil company of Japan, and there are no reliable substitutes.
I would strongly suggest you remove whatever fluid Firestone put in there, and replace it with Honda ATF Z-1, 3 times.
(original here: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef026c3/5880 )
I thought I'd post this over here. I'll try to head over to Firestone with a printout of blueiedgod's post and see what they say and report back.
I have 2005 Accord EX6
Mrbill
Let me know your thoughts!
I just returned from the dealership where I had my oil change. They said that my drive belt was starting to crack and recommended replacement. They quoted me at about $150. Does this sound right? Does it make sense that the drive belt would start to crack around 52k on an 03 Accord LX 4cylinder?
Thanks to anyone who responds.
As far as the cracks are concerned, if they are referring to the cracks found on the inside ribs of the belt, I've ignored those types of cracks for years and never had any problems. The flat type of serpentine belts seem to crack quickly between the grooves on the inside. There is still very strong cords inside the belt that keeps it from breaking.
This is something that any decent repair shop can replace which should save you money if you still feel you want the belt changed and you don't want to do it yourself.
Mrbill
Would this be considered routine maintenance or random things coming up? Reason I ask is because at my dealer all oil changes are free if the 15000 maintenance items are done at the dealer. I know it's weird to want free oil changes, but every bit counts and the labor rate is comparable to most shops around here about $95.
Also, this seemed a bit weird to me, but I got back from the oil change and looked at the sticker and they say that I'm not due back until 59,800 miles, meanwhile right now I'm just a hair under 51,700, does this seem too long or can I go that long?
Thanks for answering my questions, dumb as they might be.
If you are going to pay $150 for a drive belt replacement, those oil changes are far from free.
Regards,
Corkscrew
I love driving a standard, purchased new an '89 Prelude Si stick and drove it for 12 years putting 300,000 miles on it. Loved that car, no problems outside of the speed sensor going out twice....just regular maintence. I currently have a '96 Accord EX i4, 5 speed and it's been good as well.
So I'm torn....do I go for the v6 6 speed (never driven on yet - looking for my "prelude responsiveness" again) or is an 06 i4 5 speed enough. Looking for an EXL but don't want to pay that new car price. Any suggestions on what to look out for in buying a 2 year old car of either type - i4 or v6? MT of course
Thanks!