Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

paul_nam1 · March 2009

Hi,

I just got a 2005 accord ex (81300 mile). Today, I found that I hear a squeak whenever I rotate temperature control dial. It seems like vent moving sounds but it's high sound which makes me uncomfortable. Did you have a same experience with mine and how did you fix that? The cost would be high????

The sounds is getting much bigger when the dial is heading at the most left or right.

Thanks in advance for your input!!

Thanks,
Paul

ddanieltyler · March 2009

Hey guys!

I have a 2005 Honda Accord Hybrid 3.0L V-6 auto with navigation system, 50k miles.

The problem is when I drive the car, fairly firm take-off, all of suddenly my engine light started to blink then continues to blink. then when I cruise, the light disappeared. Since I owned the car the check engine light pops on very occasionally though. One time the check engine light finally stayed on, then I went to O'reilly's quickly and scanned the codes. It said that my O2 sensors were malfunctioning. That was one code.Afterwards, I suspect that ANC that apparently got toggled off and that sound harmonic suppression aka humming sound. I resetted the ANC, now the car is working fantastic, using completely hybrid mode finally! So therefore I suspect that ANC that wa off for a while so might have caused my O2 sensors to mess up prematurely. ANC is a module that deactivates and activates the cylinders-for example the engine would be running on 6 cylinders at same time, when cruising down the road, the "ECO" will come on and the ANC will turn on and the engine will start to use 3 cylinders to save most mpg as much as possible. I love the car to death. Its fast, saves gas, pretty car. I baby the car so much. I use 5W 20 Valvoline full synthetic every 5k miles. I use shell gas since I owned the car, which I finally convinced my wife to start using shell gas instead of looking for cheapest gas around in town.

So do you think that my O2 sensors needs to be replaced?

I also noticed black soot around the exhaust tips, usually it's a sign that the engine is running rich.

Also how can I adjust the engine to prevent from running rich?

I hope y'all can help me out with that problem.

Thanks,
Daniel

stickguy · March 2009

To be accurate, ANC (active noise control) ios a gizmo that works through the speakers to try and hide when the engine is running on 3 cylinders. The technology that lets the engine run on 3 or 6 is called VCM.

DIdn't know that the Accord hybrid had that in 2005. My 2005 Odyssey does though.

An O2 sensor problem could cause it to run rich. Not sure if that would impact the VCM though (and I really have no idea how it would tie into hybrid mode!) Unless you think that the Eco light means it is running on battery? IIRC, it just means it is running effeciently, and does not mean for sure that it is running on 3 cylinders.

stickguy · March 2009

broke down and put new sneaks on my 2005 EX-l (4 cyl, 5 speed) today at ~42K. Had gotten out of alignment, so the inner edge of the front tire was shot, and the front outers were marginal. Backs had a little life left, but I did all 4.

Man, what a difference. I put on Yokohama Avid H4s. Like night and day. No more sliding all over an off ramp in the wet (not much better in the dry weather). Actually feel safe hitting the brakes now too in the wet. The OEM Michelins were horrible tires, and very expensive.

Also need rear brakes. Actually, need 1 (of 4) pads. The outer R one has some meat, but the inner R is almost to the wear bar. Will milk it for a few more K before I get that done.

I called around for some prices, and got one guy (at Tires Plus) that obviously knows Honda. Not only aware that this generation went through rear pads fast, but even guessed it was the inner right side pad!

brake jobs have also gone up quite a bit since the last time I had one done. Expecially on this car, where an experienced brake guy with a lift can probably swap out the pads in about 10 minutes.

I also plan to leave the rotors as is if they look to be clean and smooth. WOn't cut them, and would rather not spend extra to replace them.

lilengineerboy · March 2009

brake jobs have also gone up quite a bit since the last time I had one done. Especially on this car, where an experienced brake guy with a lift can probably swap out the pads in about 10 minutes.

A moron with 2 jackstands and a $40 socket set from Sears can do it in 30 minutes. Ask me how I know :P

And you can get a brake pad that better meets your needs (more performance or less dust, or longer wear, or sometimes all of the above).

ddanieltyler · March 2009

Yeah, I was confused with those words! Ur right, but simply when I resetted the ANC thingy all of suddenly my car was much better, saving more gas.... etc. I just really want to know how the hell my motor gotten rich? Its pissing me off even I baby my car to death, ya know? I want my engine to run better and last long as possible. my goal is get my car uped to 300,000 miles! lol I'm still determined to find out exactly why my engine runs rich tho. ECO is when my engine is doing 3 cylinders, maybe? my battery does for when my car turns off when i stop at stop light. then turns it back on, and assist the engine when i accelerate too. again i still have only 50k miles and my O2 sensors is bad already? jeez. those are expensive too!

daniel

stickguy · March 2009

well Lil, I got plenty of sockets, and for sure I can cover the need for a moron...

I could also buy the jackstands and download instructions I guess.

And 50/50 I end up dropping the car on my self. But to save a few bucks, probably worth the odds!

lilengineerboy · March 2009

And 50/50 I end up dropping the car on my self. But to save a few bucks, probably worth the odds!

For the most part, it hasn't been as much about saving money for me, its had more to do with enjoying working on cars and the satisfaction of doing something well. I get to look around and pick out the best rotors (for my needs), the best pads (again, for my needs), the best fluid, etc, and then spending an hour putting it all together.

I find a lot of comfort in having at least a Haynes or Chiltons manual with me, if not the factory service manual. The $8 is worth it to have as a reference (and also because it lists out the torque specs for everything). It also lets me know when I am up for something challenging - the '93 Accord had front brake rotors that were pressed in-between the upright and the axle...it took a press to get the separated. Depending on the vehicle, I will also drop the $20 to get 4 "speed bleeders" so I can bleed the brakes by myself.

temj12 · March 2009

I also have an '05 Accord EX-L 5 speed. I just replaced the rear brakes at 80,000 miles. I asked the Honda tech why in the world a front wheel drive car would wear out the rear brakes before the front. He said they did not know why but it was a characteristic of that generation of Honda. Mine came with the Bridgestone Turanza as original equipment. The tires easily lasted 75,000 miles; they could probably have gone 90,000. I replaced them because I drive fast and I did not want to run them down to no tread. They were great tires so I replaced them with the same. I am sorry about your Michelins. They have a good reputation but maybe they are not quite like the reputation.

stickguy · March 2009

well, based on mileage, I must have done a lot more stop/go around town, so that might account for some of the difference.

The rears probably had enough tread to push 50K, but the front inner edges were shot. But mostly, I did it now because the wet traction was scary bad.

My mechanic said that often when the rear pads where uneven (the inner pad is almost shot, the outer has about 60% left) it is a caliper adjustment issue, and they would grease up the knig in (?) because that sometiems sticks. In any case, 42K on a FWD 4 cyl, with a stick, is just ridiculous. THe fronts are probably good for 75K+, and for sure they do most of the work.

People in th ebusiness know all about certain model year Hondas doing this, so consider it a design flaw.

In better news, I finally put in a new cabin air filter. Man, was that easy. No directions, and it took about 30 seconds (25 of which was picking up the junk from the glove compartment that spilled on the floor!)

honda_fan1 · March 2009

Hi, I was wondering if you got this question answered. I have an 03 V6 4 door and took it in for a oil change/transmission fluid change, and told me the same thing. The compliance bushings need changing and its going to take $536. I am guessing this is a problem with this model year? is there any way to talk to Honda of America and see if they can replace it with warranty? I don't drive on bumps and neither do i go on dirt roads.

Thanks in advance!

mark4490 · March 2009

'04 Accord V6

I went to an independent mechanic for my 75k maintenance and they did a tranny fluid change (not flush). My tranny died (slipping like what you experienced) about 40 miles later. The mechanic checked the tranny fluid and he said it was new, but burnt.

I brought my Accord to my dealer (Steven's Creek) and they got Honda to give me 75% goodwill to replace the tranny. I paid ~$800 total and it took 2 days--brought it in Monday, picked it up on Wednesday. I have a brand new 3 yr/36k warranty with the new tranny so I figure it was worth it. I think Honda would have given me 100% goodwill if I hadn't had service at the independent.

Figures that the 1st time I don't have maintenance at the dealer my super reliable car breaks-down. :confuse:

One thing: my tranny had to be relatively hot (run it for a while) before it'd slip. I had to drive around for about 15 minutes before we could reproduce it.

mark4490 · March 2009

I had the same issue! My rears pads needed to be replaced, but the fronts were still good. I wound up replacing all of pads all around and the front rotors.

My front rotors warped and I could feel some pulsing when braking at high speeds (>60mph). I didn't want the Honda OEM rotors and pads, through they're supposed to be some of the best available. I got Brembo blanks and Axxis Ultimates up front and Akebono ProACTs pads on the rear (rear rotors were fine).

Braking performance was awesome, but my front rotors were shot and down to the minimum after 25k miles. The Axxis Ultimates are designed for auto-cross so they weren't going to last, but I didn't expect them to eat the Brembos! I wound up replacing the Brembos with a set of Centric Premiums and Akebono ProACTs pads.

The Akebono ProACTs on the rear are holding up fine and they're not eating the rotors like the Axxis Ultimates.

sparkva · April 2009

Do you still have whatever you received from Honda regarding the radio display? I have a 2004 Accord and the display just went out a couple of days ago and it would be helpful to have as much information as possible when I go to my dealer.

elroy5 · April 2009

dudleyr · April 2009

2 questions. 2007 Accord I4 MT

The Honda manual says to only use Honda antifreeze. I don't believe this to be true, but what type does it take - the regular yellow green stuff or the long life red. I think I remember that they are not compatible.

Also has anybody had problems with the windows chattering when they are going up or down. Mostly in warmer weather for me. I took the car in twice for this and they claimed to fix everything and replaced plenty of parts, but the problem still happens. While the rattling is annoying, my main concern is long term durability. Has anybody had the windows fail?

Thanks

lilengineerboy · April 2009

The Honda manual says to only use Honda antifreeze. I don't believe this to be true, but what type does it take - the regular yellow green stuff or the long life red. I think I remember that they are not compatible.

Honda coolant is formulated without one of the chemicals that is in most anti-freeze because it eats cooling systems. Many European vehicles that have dissimilar metals in their cooling systems also specify special coolant. The Honda antifreeze hasn't been any more expensive then Prestone from Murrays so I don't really understand the logic there.

Also has anybody had problems with the windows chattering when they are going up or down. Mostly in warmer weather for me.

My '93 did that, my '07 does that. The window motors on the '93 were all replaced between 8-10 years old. I thought that was fine. It does seem to be annoying though.

dudleyr · April 2009

Thanks, the problem with buying Honda is the nearest one is almost 200 miles away.

Yikes, never had a power window fail in 30 years of driving (including lots of "unreliable domestics"). Sorry to hear this may be in my future. How much does it cost to repair one.

Of course the whole window thing is made worse by that wonderful key fob that will roll all 4 windows down at once. I use this all the time in the summer and it really helps to cool the car as the windows are all down before I even get in. The problem is more up and down on all the windows since I would probably not roll them all down if it did not have this feature. I would have expected Honda to make the windows a little more durable.

Maybe that is why they only get average marks for that area in Consumer Reports.

blufz1 · April 2009

See if you can buy the Honda coolant on line and shipped to your door.

dudleyr · April 2009

I will look into online. I also may be in the big city next week anyway.

Thanks for the advice.

kcrossley · April 2009

I have a 2006 Accord EX 4 with 45K on it. I just checked my local Merchants Tire store and the Michelin P206/60R16 MXV4's are running about $175 each. Apparently, these tires are suppose to be rated for 60K miles. Should I be getting an additional pro-rated warranty discount from Michelin or do OEM tires not qualify for a mileage rating?

Also, is there anything from Goodyear that's similar in quality, performance, and ride, but less expensive?

Thanks,
Kelly

lilengineerboy · April 2009

I would open the search beyond Michelin and Goodyear. Bridgestone and Yokahama both make tires that are a good match with the Accord.

What type of driving do you do? Mostly highway or mostly city? Is it a curvy area or mostly straight roads? Any snow or just rain to deal with?

kcrossley · April 2009

Thanks for your reply. I do a lot of highway driving. The roads I frequent are mostly straight, but there are some routes that I use that have quite a few curves. Snow is not too much of a concern, but rain can be. I don't mind another brand, but I'd prefer something that offers a comparable ride and performance.

elroy5 · April 2009

Bridgestone Serenity. They are just as smooth as the Michelins, and have better wet traction. They are heavier though, which could cost you a mpg or two.

derekgaddy · April 2009

I went thru the same exercise you're going thru...RE new tires. I have an 05 EX 4. I did a lot of research and decided on the Toyo Versado LX. All in the tires cost me about $150 a tire. Total bill came in around $600. I have about 18k on them and so far I'm very pleased. Tread wear is good. I live in the Northeast and snow traction is good and rain traction is excellent. Time will tell but so far so good with these Toyo's.

stickguy · April 2009

I just put Yokohama Avid H4s on my 2005 4 cyl. EXL. Great tire. way better than the crappy OEM michelins. And I put over1K highway on them in the last week, much of it in the rain, and they did great.

Check out tire rack for reviews. THey tested them against the Bridgestone (G009 pole? something like that) as a "sporty" tire.

tankbeans · April 2009

Thought I'd put my 2 cents in here. I recently put Bridgestone Potenza G019 Grid tires on my 03 LX Coupe I4 auto and I've been loving them. I haven't noticed a net decrease in gas mileage from them because in my area winter blend is still around for a little while yet. I can take corners a little faster than I used to do with my Republic Ensigns and I don't notice any extra noise coming from them. At $100 a pop they're not too expensive, but they seem nice.

I've only had them since February so I'm not sure how they are in heavy rain, but in light snow I noticed a significant decrease in my car's tendency to slide around. It takes minimal effort to correct the slipping car with these tires.

lilengineerboy · April 2009

I have an 05 EX 4. I did a lot of research and decided on the Toyo Versado LX. All in the tires cost me about $150 a tire. Total bill came in around $600.

That seems steep for a highway tire. My other vehicle's Bridgestone RE960 PP A/S tires were $100 under that. Regional mounting fees and disposal fees in addition to taxes might be some of that, however.

kcrossley · April 2009

Thanks everyone for your responses. I finally decided to go with a set of Michelin MXV4 Primacys at $175.99 per tire. Although they're a bit pricey, I didn't want to sacrifice my ride or mileage. Plus, I've never had a problem with Michelin, so why change. Thanks again! - Kelly

ezshift5 · April 2009

I'm getting Primacy MXV4 (215/50-17s) at EOM (new credit card billing period: I expect to fork out about 800 of my Naval Reserve bread for four of these)

Appreciate your addressing this tires noise profile (TireRack gives it high marks here)

best, ez....

mookie14 · April 2009

Got a 07 Ex-L Accord and to my Surprise Thanks to my spouse im almost out of Warranty like this week. And NO $$$ TO BUY A WARRANTY so being this is the first time i have not had a extended warranty on any auto and im going to try to get a 2010 Accord in march is when i have 6 mos left on this lease. But honestly this is the best auto i have ever had hands down am i sh..... out of luck and out of alot of paper seeing i will be naked with no warranty until i get a new accord thanks guys

stickguy · April 2009

Well, a couple of points:

1) No, I don't think you should worry. Accords are quite reliable, expecially one as new as yours, so the odds of anything major happening (certainly expensive enough to cost more than the price of the warrenty) are very, very low.

2) Buying an extended warrenty for a lease car makes no sense in the first place, since you will logically never get to use it. I suppose you might be able to cash in some of the value at the end? But it still makes little sense.

Either get a lease, or buy a car with an extneded warranty and keep it for 6/7 years.

mookie14 · April 2009

Is There a such there that exist as automotive credit vs retail credit that finance arms of auto companies use. I saw a some thing from experian that says dealers have access to that info is that correct??? ps thanks for the info about the warranty im still tripping about being out of one though. Heck at least i do not have a gm or a ford or dodge thats 4 sure i know i would be ..... out of luck.

sarahap · April 2009

The little old lady across the street is selling me her '03 LX. It has only 23k mi. We're wondering if we need to think about replacing the timing belt and do all that 5 yr maintenance even though the miles are low. Would appreciate any thoughts. Her records show she had it into the dealer in Feb for maintenance but they just did an oil change and standard check-off.

Thanks

thegraduate · April 2009

If it is a 4-cylinder model, there is NO TIMING BELT to deal with. I'd change the brake fluid though; it gets water absorbed into it over time, and will break down the seals if left in there. It should be changed every 3-4 years.

Also, check the tires to make sure they aren't dry-rotting (check for small cracks along them). Stuff like air filters should be changed at 30,000 miles. Hopefully she has the owner's manual? If she does, it'll have all the details you need.

Enjoy your (like) new Honda!

Mr_Shiftright · April 2009

I agree. I'd definitely pay very close attention to the tires and probably replace them or at least have one dismounted and inspected carefully.

stickguy · April 2009

just had the rears done yesterday on my '05 (at a whopping 43K) Work much better now. Smooth and quiet, nice firm pedal, and no groaning/grinding (will see if that comes back on a wet day!)

Also had the brake fluid done. I was having it flushed anyway, but they did a dip strip test (like checking pool water) that showed purple, meaning time to change! Doubt it was a scam, since I had already told them to do it.

With the new brakes (front pads have about 7mm on them, so good for a long time yet) and recent Yoko tires, roadholding and braking are light years better. I can even go around an off ramp at more than 10 MPH without plowing right off it!

For the brakes, it was the inner (right side) pad that was worn down. Mechincs felt it was a sticky caliper slide that caused the problem (making the pad drag slightly), although the rotors had penty of meat to cut still.

amygdala · April 2009

i recently bought a certified 2006 se automatic accord,this is my first accord, the problem is acceleration isnt smooth, i need to press hard the gas pedal, when accelerating from lower speed i could feel the shifting of gears and also at certain speed i can feel vibration of gas pedal, with these problems i took it to the dealer , he said tires are overinflated and they adjusted the tire pressure and re balance the tires, but i still have same proble, some body please help me what this problem could be and what is the best way to deal with this, thanks a lot for your time

stickguy · April 2009

Every car has it's own feel. And gas pedal feel is a big part of it. Quite possibly it is just a matter of getting used to something different than you had before?

I have an Accord, Odyssey and and Acura TL. The TL drives much differently than the Odyssey, even though they have essentially the same engine and tranny (the Accord doesn't really count since it is a stick).

You also tend to "feel" the drivetrain a little more in a Honda than in some other cars, especially a 4 cyl automatic.

I would say go back to the dealer and test drive another used one like yours to compare. If they are the same, then you can pretty much assume it is the way they are supposed to be.

thegraduate · April 2009

I completely agree with post 4609. Ask to drive another one and compare.

yooper53 · April 2009

2006 accord ex-l, 4 cyl, 5 spd auto.

thanks in advance to any kind soul who'll tell me what the spec torque value is for this model.

i've heard from a couple respected tire dealers ( retail ) that with alloys to come back to have them retorqued after 50-100 miles. Question: do you back off the lugs a little before retorquing to spec or just torque 'em from where ever they are positioned at that time? dumb question i know but i want to do it right and to do it myself since a bad experience with local dealer who tightened them so much, come spring i had to stand and bounce on the lug wrench for all 20 nuts to break 'em free. i specifically asked them to set spec torque before they started.
they charged for this and i wasn't aware of their screwup til months later.
i was po'd and passed the word at all opportunity.
thanks for your patience.
Dennis

amygdala · April 2009

thanks a lot john,

mark4490 · April 2009

It sounds like there's something wrong with your car.

The tranny in the Accord should be very smooth and linear. In my 2004 V6 Accord, if I'm going very slow I can feel it when the tranny shifts from 1st to 2nd. If I'm accelerating, then it's seamless and I can't feel anything. I know when it's shifting only because of the sounds from the engine and tranny.

The Accord has a drive-by-wire throttle. Meaning that there isn't any direct hydraulic connection from the engine to the gas pedal which can provide feedback. So you shouldn't feel anything from the gas pedal.

Some other folks have commented that you should test drive another car to compare. I agree. My take is that salespeople and mechanics will always say there's nothing wrong even if there is something obviously wrong when there's an incentive. Likewise, they'll tell you your car is going to fall apart and you're going to die in it if they want to sell you something.

mark4490 · April 2009

80 lb/ft, don't bother backing off before torquing

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=107

I've heard the same thing from tire-dealers about coming back to get them re-torqued, but I've never heard the same thing after getting my tires rotated (regular service) by the dealer. I've never gone back and I've never had a wheel fall off.

The common complaint I've heard is that the tire shop guys generally use an impact wrench for tightening, even on alloys and when you tell them to do it by hand. A friend with an Audi A6 has some plastic part (?) on his wheels that the guys at Sears destroyed when they use the impact wrench. :mad:

corbs · April 2009

2003 accord started this morning fine went to start in afternoon just a clicking sound. power on dash seems to be fluctuate.

thegraduate · April 2009

I'll assume you've already checked the battery? Just because it started fine this morning doesn't mean it had another start left in it.

mookie14 · April 2009

I got a Problem i took my accord in for service and the problem was i heard groaning form the pulleys now before this in the winter time i heard sqealing from the pulleys. So they claimed they made the repair now for a couple of days no sound then i heard the sqealing im like now what. So it went away so today rather this morning i hear whining sound as i am driving in the street or when i come to a stop but as i turn the steering wheel it go' and comes but still whines. Now when i took it in i was under warranty now im out only left pwertrain, and tranny warranty any advive what could br wrong. And i really do not want to go back to the buttholes who claimed they fixed it will powertrain help me out if i go somwhere else? they said they put a new shim kit on to stop the groaning from the pulleys and said it was a tsb on it but i researched THERE IS NOT ONE OR GUYS IS IT i believe since i was at the threshold of being out of warrnty they knew they could jerk me help guys. ps this whining sound was not doing this when i brought in the 1st time.

buyahome · April 2009

The squealing you heard was probably from a dry belt. The quick fix is to spray a little lubricant on the belt (known as belt dressing). This generally does the trick, however sometimes it (the squealing) comes back. If it is a groaning noise, that sounds like a pump. In a GM car or a CHRYSLER...it is common. But a HONDA? Ask the dealer to check it out and sometimes they will offer you a courtesy repair, especially if it was just in the shop. Good luck with it. I have always found our local dealer to be helpful and more than fair!

thegraduate · April 2009

Since you said you still have powertrain warranty, I'm assuming you have a 2006-2007 model with the 5/60k powertrain warranty. Is it a 4-cylinder or V6? The pulleys should be covered by the 5/60k.

The fact that they have your problem documented before the warranty was up is a good thing. The dealer gets paid whether or not the work is under warranty, so I doubt they were jerking you around (for that purpose anyway). You should take the car back to them if it is having the same issue, whether or not it is currently under the powertrain warranty shouldn't matter, since they didn't fix the issue the first time.

mookie14 · April 2009

I got a V-6 also if i need a Pwer steering pump is thats covered under 5yr-60k power train?? This is what happens: As i sit for a sec then i turn on the air when its on or not about a min i drove off then as i reached the street the whining starts then i turn the wheel it goes and comes but the sounds is still there the power sterring fluid is full. At the dealership they said they repaired something "timing something at that time i heard groaning from the pulleys so guys help me me out thanks. I got like 36100 miles on it, now if i go to another dealership will all this be covered under pwer train this reason i want go to another dealership is EDUCATION!! some of these guys do not know nothing they try to fix one thing and another thing happens i do not need the headaches hell honda huh? what to do? guys.

Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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