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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Engines these days don't need large filters. The oil needs changing more because it's broken down, or has moisture in it. Not because it's contaminated with particles large enough to be filtered. The filter is sufficient, IMO.
  • texasgulfcoasttexasgulfcoast Member Posts: 2
    Lordy, I hope there is never any moisture in my new car's oil that means a blown head gasket. Larger filters keep the oil cleaner longer especially with Synthetic oil. This is like running coffee grinds thru a thimble for 7k miles, some crud will get by. I guess the answer to my question is no. If anyone can find an adapter please reply to my post, Thanks in advance for any help.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The moisture comes from heating and cooling metal (engine block). If you change the oil often enough, there will not be any "crud" in it, But hey, if you want a filter as big as a two liter, go for it. I guess you're smarter than Honda engineers.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    If you really feel the need for additional oil filtering, you might search for a "bypass oil filter" Here is an example:

    http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/bf.aspx?CategoryID=79

    Mrbill
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,489
    The dealer can't say they will machine them until they are inspected. There is a spec (certain thickness) you use. Below it, they can't be machined. And if they re warped at all, replace them.

    I just had the rears done on my .05 at 43K (inner pad wore out, defective design). But the rotors had plenty of meat, so they got cut.

    Also, IMO, Honda usues lousy brake pads. If you get a shop to do it, they wil lliekly (or can, for a small extra cost) use much higher quality pads.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    I use Purolator Pur One oil filters. They are premium filters with synthetic media. They are slightly larger than the Honda filters. Still the Honda filters are big enough. There are no coffee ground sized particles in the engine.

    I use synthetic oil and after 8-9,000 miles when I change the oil it is still a dark honey color. If the oil was full of particles it would be much darker.
  • 2007accord12007accord1 Member Posts: 4
    I have 2007 Honda Accord. I am hearing lot of discussions lately on when should change the oil on newer models..

    I do daily total 20 miles on my car.( 2 trips between work and home) My maintenance Oil indicator shows 50% , Miles traveled 2800 miles and almost 4 months since the last oil change..

    I would like to know when should I change the oil.. Should I go by Maintenance indicator/ No of months/ No of Miles..

    Please advise

    Thanks
    Kush
  • dek97993dek97993 Member Posts: 8
    It depends on a few factors: your overall driving habits and the environmental conditions. If you do a lot of stop and go driving, let your car idle for prolonged periods of time, or drive in extremely dusty or cold conditions, I would go ahead and change the oil every 3000 miles. The longer you let the car idle, especially in very cold climates, the quicker the oil gets diluted by gasoline and byproducts of combustion. As a general rule of thumb, I change my oil before the cold, winter season and then right after it. If you drive non-stop, easy, highway miles to and from work, I would just stick to the regular advised maintenance schedule. If you really want to get to be a student of oil, learn to feel, smell and look at the oil on the dipstick. If it's a new car, it shouldn't get dark immediately after a fresh oil change. Does it smell strongly of gasoline (it shouldn't), and is the viscosity decreased when you rub it between your fingers ( i recommend wearing disposable rubber gloves, but purists will say the most sensitive way is to use your fingers without gloves). Hope this helps.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The maintenance minder will account for all the idling (it sounds like the original poster does a good bit of city driving based on the 50% at only 2800 miles, anyway). Use the MM, save your money; Honda engineers know better than we do on when our Accords need O/Cs. I usually go around 7,500 miles before mine hits the 15% mark, but I do more than 50% highway driving.

    Happy Hondaing,

    TheGrad
    '06 Accord EX 2.4L 5AT
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Honda engineers know better than we do on when our Accords need O/Cs.

    Not really. Its driven more by marketing than by anything else. An example of this is BMW...in the 80s, they were notorious for high maintenance costs leading BMW to introduce they free maintenance for 3 years thing...then they decided THEY were paying too much and started eliminating services like oil changes, transmission flushes, and coolant changes. Now if you look at CR, their cooling systems are sub-par.

    There are a few arguments - the 3000 mile oil change was mandated more by the revenue streams for Jiffy Lube etc than anything else, automotive lubricants have come a long way in 20 years, motors are manufactured with tighter tolerances and the materials used for seals, engines heat up faster - that point to longer change intervals. However, driving demands have increased, speeds are higher, traffic is worse (more idling) and engines run hotter - all imply that the oil should be changed sooner.

    I have been changing my oil when the light tells me to, but I have a highway drive at moderate speeds with light traffic. I also don't expect to keep the car forever, although the resale value hit recently may change that.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    I change when the indicator says. I provide a little extra protection by using premium filters and Synthetic oil.

    I used to change every 3,000 miles with synthetic on my Integra. What a waste that was. No point in having a perfect engine (It looks clean as new on the camshaft after 230,000 miles) if the car is starting to rust, the seats are worn through etc.

    There are plenty of people that use extended intervals and change every 20,000 miles with synthetic oil.

    Any modern engine with modern oils will last 2 or 300,000 miles with the minimum of attention. Much longer if you are fanatical. Very few people keep cars long enough to find out, or something else on the car breaks.
  • rk1942rk1942 Member Posts: 1
    My friend has Honda Accord 2006. The car has been driven more than 70000 miles. Around 20 days back the car was broken into and two front seat air bags were stolen by thieves. Before removing the air bags they had removed the dash board. Thieves had disconnected battery supply before gaining access to the car , and had gained entry in the car by breaking the rear quarter glass. Car was in perfect running condition before the theft. After car came back from repairs the ABS light comes on after driving for 1-2 minutes, and seat belt warning also does not work. Honda authorised dealer says that the ABS computer chip is faulty, and needs replacement. How could this happen, since air bags have no connection with ABS? Can some one throw light on this?
  • jjss4433jjss4433 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 07 Accord Ex. We have been following the maintanence light all the time. So far the only thing we did was Oil Change (maintainence number: A1). Now the car has 66000 miles. I am worried that maybe we have missed a major major maintainence. BTW, I only drive the car to and from work, 50 highway miles each trip, about 100miles every day.

    Do I need to bring the car to dealer to have check? You advice is highly appreciated.

    john
  • grampy1grampy1 Member Posts: 140
    Did you buy this car new? If so,you have missed several recommended services.

    If not bought new i hope you have the service records.

    Check your owner's manual for service intervals.
  • skrisskris Member Posts: 4
    Hi,

    I have a 2005 Accord V6 with around 66K miles. Today I drove for around 10-12 miles in an extremely HOT Houston with AC at full blast (the car indicated that the outside temp was 105). When I stopped, I noticed that they temperature guage was well above the half way mark and a fan seemed to be running after the engine was turned off. This went on for about 5 minutes and then it went off. I drove back home - another 10 miles and the same thing happened.

    Is this normal? I plan to take it to the mechanic tomorrow- do I need to have it towed or can I drive it?

    Thanks!
    kris
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    My 92 Accord used to do that all the time on hot days. The fan would run 5-10 minutes after the engine was shut off. I don't know if these newer Accords are designed to work that way or not. My 03 V6 has never done it yet (I also have 66k miles). I think you can drive it, but be very careful. If the temp gauge gets close to the red area, stop the engine and let it cool off before continuing. How far is this mechanic? What does your coolant level look like (check the radiator as well as the overflow tank).
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    Almost all modern cars have an electric fan that runs after the engine is turned off.
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    What you are describing is perfectly normal. When temps go to 105 the cooling system will show a higher operating temperature because it can't get rid of the engine heat as quickly as it does at a lower temperature. If you would like to see the engine temperature go down, turn up the heater to "full blast". It will get very hot in the passenger compartment, but the engine temperature will go down and the temperature gauge will show a drop in temperature.

    Stay cool all is working well!
  • skrisskris Member Posts: 4
    elroy, dudley and bioman,

    Thanks for your responses. I checked the coolant level- it was full in the radiator and 1/2 way between min and max in the over flow tank. Drove it to work today (about 3 miles). The temp quickly climbed to the 1/2 way mark and stayed there.

    thanks again
    kris
  • dek97993dek97993 Member Posts: 8
    sounds normal. just to be on the safe side, let the car cool down overnight and in the morning, check the external reservoir. there should be coolant there, if not open the radiator cap (make sure the engine has cooled completely!) and add coolant if necessary.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If the coolant hasn't been changed, and you have over 50k miles, I would change it soon. I know the owner's manual says the coolant is good for 105k miles, but I just don't believe that is wise in Houston or South Louisiana (where I live). The high temperatures, and high humidity, put a lot of stress on the cooling systems IMO.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    As long as the gauge stays below the 1/2 mark then it's ok.
    If not, you might want to replace the thermostat.
  • wise1wise1 Member Posts: 91
    Are you sure it is oil leaking?? It could be the tranny?? When I purchased my 07 accord I inspected it on the rack. The first accord had a tranny leak, yes the brand new car already had a leak. If it is the tranny you have 5 yr. 60K warranty to get it fixed. Honda may give you headaches but keep up the fight!!! :mad: :cry:;)
  • wise1wise1 Member Posts: 91
    Sorry I should have scrolled down and read your additional post anyway WATCH YOUR Tranny fluid levels and happy motoring!!! :shades:
  • garrickgarrick Member Posts: 30
    2007 4 cyl Accord will be 2 yrs old August 09. Need to bring it in for service now with 22K miles. Maintenance Minder is showing "B" which if I read the manual correctly shows the following suggested:

    Replace engine oil and oil filter
    Inspect front and rear brakes
    Check parking brake adjustment
    Inspect these items:
    Tie rod ends, steering gear box, and boots
    Suspension components
    Driveshaft boots
    Brake hoses and lines (including ABS)
    All fluid levels and condition of fluids
    Exhaust system
    Fuel lines and connections

    Dealer obviously suggests a lot more service for about $300 such as rotate tires, roadforce balancing, air filter, inspect distributor cap, clean injectors, 40 point service inspection and others.

    What should I do at 22K miles if I plan on keeping this car for the long haul?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    All the maintenance items you listed sound like good ideas, except for two. If the car has no hint of vibration in the steering wheel at speed or other vibrations, I would decline the roadforce balancing. The balance will only be as good as the guy operating the machine. If the balance machine is subpar, or the operator is inexperienced, you could end up with a problem you didn't have before. Second, I don't think your car has a distributor cap. ;)
  • roachbuggroachbugg Member Posts: 15
    Hello board,

    I am writing this note because I need rear brakes- and rotors on an Accord EX V6.

    My normally reliable dealer is charging $420.00 for brakes and rotors. I think that is robbery....

    Anyone know of a dealer that can do the work cheaper?

    Does anyone know of any coupons I can find for this service? I have looked everywhere....

    If so, please let me know...

    thanks a lot... any insight helps!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Is there a reason you're going to the dealer?
  • roachbuggroachbugg Member Posts: 15
    I don't know where else to go. Haven't had to replace these brakes before. Wanted to know where the other users/car owners went. The dealer told me that I need rotors and brakes in the rear of my car. They want to charge $210 for each. That sounds like a lot to me. Has anyone used Midas or Meineke? Any suggestions?

    thanks
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    My suggestion would be to talk to people you know; friends, family, coworkers, people at your place of worship, etc and find out if they know a good reputable mechanic. I go to the mechanic my grandfather uses; just had my timing belt and water pump done on my '96 Accord for $478. The dealer wanted $820.

    Get a few opinions/estimates before you have it done. The worst they can do is give you the same answer/price, which I would wager won't happen.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Check the net for dealer brake specials in your area then give your dealer a chance to match the price.
  • fendertweedfendertweed Member Posts: 98
    that price is on the high end but I would not call it "robbery" ... "affordable" and "dealer" rarely go together.

    I can recommend RPM in Newington, VA, who have taken care of my cars for the past 15 yrs. or so. They are not the cheapest but are reliable and honest and they don't do unnecessary work.

    If you call they can tell you what they'd charge for this work 703.550.8240.

    I have no connection with them other than being a long time customer.
  • fbc2009fbc2009 Member Posts: 7
    I am looking to buy a 2004 Accord 2.4 5A with $135K. What should I check regarding PM done up to this mileage?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Do everything in the manual up to that point 135k, if it hasn't already been done. Especially fluids. That's a lot to do, :surprise: better get started. ;) Good luck
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You can look up the required maintenance here: Maintenance Schedules, Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins. Good luck!
  • fbc2009fbc2009 Member Posts: 7
    Thank you guys!
  • accord6mtaccord6mt Member Posts: 53
    I just called RPM and, don't take this the wrong way, but they were very cold to me. My conversation with RPM:

    Me: Your Website says that you service Porsche and Audi cars... do you also service Hondas?

    RPM: We sometimes service Hondas but usually only if our customer already services a Porsche with us. Do you have a Porsche?

    Me: No, but RPM was referred on a car Web site and that person drives a Honda.

    RPM: Does that customer also drive a Porsche? We're very busy with Porsches and Audis and we try to keep quiet about servicing other cars. We wouldn't want to lose that customer so yes, how about we talk about what services you need for your Honda and we'll see if we can help you. It's late today and it's the worst time for a call so why don't I call you - wait, how about you call me tomorrow at 11 am, does that sound good to you?

    Me: Um, sure, thanks.

    Sheesh. I doubt I'll be over there any time soon! Let's hope my experience was an isolated incident...
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Honda brakes are nothing special, and not hard to work on. So why would a special place be needed for this? Unless you plan to change some things (upgrade). What are you going to have done?
  • accord6mtaccord6mt Member Posts: 53
    Agreed.

    I personally don't need any work on my car in the immediate future but I'm always looking for a good, reliable independent shop. I was confused because the previous poster said that he has had a good relationship with RPM for the past 15 years but when I went to RPM's Website they made no mention of servicing anything but Porsches and Audis. That's why I called RPM about servicing Hondas.
  • hondalover13hondalover13 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 03 accord 4 cyl!!! to day the air just stoped blowing. I thing it might be the blower motor resistor!!! does anyone know of this problem? the blower motor does work I did test it!!
  • grampy1grampy1 Member Posts: 140
    2007 Accord 4 door sedan.
    I have forgotten how to use the key fob to lower the windows from outside the car. This feature allows one to partially lower the windows to vent a hot car interior before entering.
    Any help here would be appreciated . Thanks
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,489
    press and release and press again (to unlock all 4 doors). When you press the 2nd time, hold the button for a few more seconds, and the windows will go down until you let go of the button

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • grampy1grampy1 Member Posts: 140
    Thanks. That worked perfectly
  • nullpointernullpointer Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Accord 4-cylinder with 51k miles. Driving home today, the car lurched then hesitated a few seconds after accelerating out of park. I parked again, turned off the car and tried it again. Same thing happened, but this time there was a grinding sound coming from right below the gear shifter after I put it into drive. Also, once I was in drive the dashboard indicators for gears D3 and D2 flashed on and off while the light for D was also on. Reverse gear has no problem. One time the grinding also happened in park. At lunch, the car was fine; this all started on the drive home.

    I'm hoping it's a problem with the gear shifter module but dreading that it will be the transmission (seems to early for it to go at 50k miles).

    Any ideas?
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    2007 Honda Accord EX manual transmission w/28k. I just got my maintenance minder light to come on with B:1,2. In checking my handy-dandy owner's manual, its an oil change, tire rotation, and air filter change, plus some inspections.

    The dealer wanted to change the transmission fluid, the brake fluid, and a bunch of other stuff to the tune of $450. I can't find anything that says I have to change any of those fluids yet. They also wanted to do some fuel system service - which the manual seems to actually suggest against. What the heck? I mean the Subaru dealer has a suggested maintenance schedule but that's ridiculous.

    Is there any trick to changing the brake fluid/bleeding the brakes on this particular Accord? Previous wisdom was to start at the brake furthest from the m/c and work your way in pumping the brakes. Does ABS or EBD affect that?

    I am planning to do this myself using Honda parts for the filters and I've had good luck with Honda fluids (I know they are probably just someone else's stuff relabeled and more $$, but I haven't had an issue with them yet - oil will be 5w20 GTX most likely). Are there any other recommendations? I'm budgeting about 90 minutes to get through this.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Honda's method is to start at the front left, and work around clockwise. They don't mention any special procedure for ABS. I like to use a vacuum pump, to suck the fluid out. That way I don't need a helper to push the brake pedal, and the master cylinder shaft is not forced into areas where it has never been (when the pedal sinks to the floor). If any rust has developed on the master cylinder shaft, it can damage the seals.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    I just got my maintenance minder light to come on with B:1,2.

    I have an 06 EX-L I4 manual. My dealer wanted to do a bunch of extra stuff as well at 30k. After doing some research, the transmission and brake fluid changes seemed the only things worthwhile besides the MM suggestions. The air filter and inside cabin filters were easy to do (well, the air filter did involved a bit of wrestling). I had the dealer do the fluid changes.

    I don't get as down and dirty as Elroy but he has a lot of experience with his own maintenance. FWIW, I remember that my 95 Accord was notorious for taking a long time to bleed the brakes. Mechanics I talked to said that was common for Honda. Don't know if that is still the case.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    I have an 06 EX-L I4 manual. My dealer wanted to do a bunch of extra stuff as well at 30k. After doing some research, the transmission and brake fluid changes seemed the only things worthwhile besides the MM suggestions

    Yeah it seems like another light comes on when it wants you to do the transmission, its like a 3 or a 4.

    I am pretty comfortable with doing the required inspections and fluid changes, so I think I am going to do an HandA order and do it next weekend.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I found out when I flushed my brakes that you have to unscrew the bleed screw quite a bit before the fluid flows freely. I spent a lot of time pumping the vacuum pump before realizing this. :surprise: Live and learn I guess.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I changed the driver door actuator this morning (it was moving up and down very slowly), and WOW :surprise: I had no idea how hard it was going to be. There are two cables, two rods, and two wire connectors hooked up to that sucker. It took me a while to get it out, and then off of the door latch, because there is absolutely nothing in the service manual about replacement (only testing). I actually snapped the tip off one of my driver bits trying to get the latch screws out (those suckers are tight). Everything turned out well though, so I saved myself a few bucks.
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