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Comments
I just went through a creaking clutch issue. I saw that some people were getting the master cylinder replaced - on another board.
It turns out that a liberal application of white lithium grease in a spay can does wonders when applied to the plunger below the pedal and the spring up above. Spray works well because it gets to the hard to reach areas. Clutch now feels as good as new with 90k miles. No more clicking/creaking/groaning when being depressed. or released.
I did go through the sueaky clutch syndrome (while under warranty), and got a new clutch master cylinder (hey, it was free, so why not).
Then, about a year ago (out of warranty) is was squeaking again. Told the service writer. He proceded to get a can of spray lube, disappear into the footwell for a minute, and came out saying it was fixed. He did what you said, sprayed the linkage and rubber parts. SInce then, not a peep.
It never impacted the feel or performance. It was just annoying. But not any more!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I think it worked. I'm taking a highway trip Friday and will let you all know.
Thanks alamocity!
Fan Motor Replaced in 2009 @ about 55K miles.
Navigation System Replaced in 2009 @ 60K miles.
Transmission failed & replaced in 2010 @ 66K miles.
Navigation System not recognizing voice commands and I will schedule for service.
We have 67K miles on the accord and given the failures we've had, I would be hard pressed to purchase another Honda. Had I not purchased the extended warranty, I would have been hit with repair bills exceeding $6,000.
Yeah, it certainly makes you gun-shy, wanting to invest in another Honda Accord, or whatever; after such major repairs with less than 100,000 miles. We had to replace our transmission at 170,000 miles, even after a maintenance program of every 15,000 mi ATF fluid "change-out"!! Especially after hearing from Honda & non-Honda people, that this powertrain was "bulletproof". Tidbit of news: You can purchase an extended warranty for new or used vehicles up to 150,000 miles, bumper-to-bumper, through AAA; just read it in their magazine, Highroads, Sept/Oct 2010 issue/Call 877-943-3539 or visit "AAA.COM/WARRANTY" to receive a quote. Hopefully, this may give you the piece of mind, needed, especially since you have already invested time and money, and were looking for that Honda assurance and dependability.
The 2004 Accord (bought 4/2004( is at a little over 166,371 miles and the 2007 accord (bought 9/2007) is at a little over 36,611 miles. Not sure what the CR-V is at.
The extended warranties would have been a waste for me on two cars so far.. mostly a waste on another - but still have a ways to go w/ mileage so could be wrong on that.
daveturner: I've bought from tirerack before and had a fine experience. Also have used tirerack.com to get prices down from local B&M places. My favorite place to go when replacing all 4 tires is wal-mart. I feel their price is low and you can come back for a tire balance and rotation for a lifetime
i have been going through the past posts of this forum and they are great.
I just bought an used 06 accord lx. the car is in good condition and has under 40k miles on it. I wanted to know, is there anything which is not alerted by the Maint Minder system? I have had a bad experience car shopping with dealers so i dont trust them now so i thought i might get to know this here.
Also, i was a bit disappointed that TPMS is not standard on 06 accord. I saw these cheap 5$ valves at the store which indicate if the tire pressure if below/above 27psi. are they reliable? i am a lil nervous because when you fix them, the tires valve will be open 24/7 and the tires will have to depends on these fixtures. whats a good way of monitoring tire pressure?
Cheers!
Simplest solution is to get a good quality digital gauge, and just check them on a regular basis. Do it weekly at first to get a baseline, and if all the tires seem to hold air normally, even once a month should be sufficient, unless you do really high miles per week.
Other than that, visually inspect them frequently for damage, or a noticeable sag (though it would have to be real low to stand out).
Also check them before you take any longer trip, and especially when the weather changes (coming up fast in the NE!). tires can lose ~1# per 10 degree temp drop, so they may be fine at 80, but 5#low at 30.
always check them cold. I like to check cold, then hot the same day to see how much they expand. Then you can make a mental adjustment if you have to check or add air when they are hot.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
the fancy ones actually take individual readings, which is much more worthwhile IMO
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
150,000 mi Scheduled Maintenance: Inspect drive belt
140,000 mi Scheduled Maintenance:
Check front and rear brake wear
Check parking brake adjustment
Inspect tie-rod ends, steering gearbox, and boots
Inspect suspension components
Inspect driveshaft boots
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS)
Inspect all fluid levels and condition of fluids
Inspect exhaust system
Inspect fuel lines and connections
As far as I know, all these things were fine (I took care of all service items/inspections before then). I don't have that write up on me.
Today the car was at 166,371 miles. I finally took car of the air filter and cabin air filter (not sure when the last time I took care of them was - I think something in the 120k miles). Not sure when I grabbed the Cabin air filter but the air filter was $23.95 from the dealer after being priced down as low as possible for them to match handa-accessories.com's online price of $20.49.
Also today, had taken the car to Firestone to have the alignment done (Have lifetime alignment from them, had the tire rotation and balance done - also free lifetime from walmart - I believe in August. Like to have alignment after rotation and balance). According to the printout, It was taken from -.07 total toe/.02 steer ahead front, .32 total toe/0.0 thrust angle rear to -.05 total toe/.01 steer ahead front and .05 total toe .01 steer ahead. There was something about aftermarket parts for a correction but it wasn't needed? My brother picked it up so I'm not sure. In the paperwork, there's a printout which has the following:
Front camber: Nothing
Front Caster: Nothing
Front Toe: Nothing
Rear Camber: honda/Acura EZ Arm XR - 2 options: 67290 (Specialty Products) / 5.67290k (Eibach)
Fear Toe: Nothing
Ride Heigh: 4.4540 (Eibach) Sportline Performance Lowering Springs
Quite of things going on in the car according to Firestone. Will be taking to Honda dealer today for an oil change so I'll hear their opinions. then I'll go with whoever's the better option:
1) Brakes and Rotors - the biggest thing.
- QC537 Ceramic Disc Brake pads PD537 ($69.99) + R Disc brake rotor(2x$105) + $90 labor = $369.99
- QC914 Ceramic Disc Brake Pads PD914 ($59.99) + Brake Rotor (2x$68.99)+$90 labor = $287.97
These are pretty dead. Looking at the visual inspection writeup:
LF: 85% worn/.901 rotor, RF 85% worn/.900 rotor/LR95% .301 Rotor/101?%worn Grooved .290
If I go w/ the dealer for the brakes, they'll be Honda OEM. If I go w/ Firestone, I'm not sure who they'll use. I'm torn on what's best, this post from lilengineerboy stood out to me amongst quite a few posts discussing this.
2) Battery (Marginal) at $94.99 + $15 labor - My brother mentioned jumps have been needed lately. This I've gotten from Sears I'm not sure how many years back - I want to say in or before '07 because I remember being upset I didn't take the battery to dealer because I thought I read something about a warranty full replacement.
3) Brake Fluid flush (test strip failure) - $20 parts, $60 labor, $23 addition labor to bleed ABS - $103. I already knew this because I'm pretty sure last one was around 3 years ago (car's 6 years old so makes sense). I've purchased two bottles of the Honda Brake Fluid so I'm hoping that'll soften the blow of price. At Firestone alone, it would knock off $20 from the parts cost (however, when I brought up, they said it must be parts they acquire - however, for my '07 CR-V brake fluid flush I had done a few months back, they did allow me to bring in my own brake fluid and made the cost $80ish I believe).
4) Serpentine/700K7Poly Rib belt - $46.99 parts + $100 labor = $146.99 - not sure what this is all about
5) Fuel System Flush suggested- cost? - not sure what this is all about
6) Headlight - 9006 halogen capsule $13.99 + $30 labor
They also mentioned tires but I'll cover those in a separate post.
Seems that's all that was checked, they didn't do a Complete Vehicle Inspection. Usually if I ask for it they will for free instead of the $20 since I'm a gold rewards member.
Lastly, there's a mention that the maintenance and ABS lights are on. The ABS light has been on for a while. The maintenance light should go away once the next oil change today. The oil changes I supply my own oil (Mobil 1) and Honda oil filter so it keeps the costs low. I was going to go w/ Mobil 1 5w-20 instead of the 5w-30 based on the discussion that followed from my last post ( lilengineerboy's post and tankbean's post) but I only had the 20 on me. I'll get back to the 5w-20 next time.
It's also worth mentioning that I've pushed this oil around 14k miles - usually I aim for not much above 10k miles. I didn't mean to, just lost track
I've also mentioned all the things Firestone has pointed out in a letter. And also, as per ahm-ownerlink.com's maintenance schedule: 160,000 mi Inspect idle speed - I've asked them if they can look into it (assuming the costs aren't too bad).
Let's see what happens.
Right now, the tires are seem to be fine - at least according to the Firestone Courtesy Check. The front outer/inner is at 5 and the rear outer/inner is at 6.
in lilengineer boy's reply to that post, he mentions the downsides of having the smaller tire. He also mentions the limited options for 16" tires and what I could do with 17" tires (I didn't know that was an option - but wouldn't that also cause problems like the smaller size?). chucko3 also mentions that these tires were downgraded in both: speed rating & load index and that's probably why they wear out faster.
I'll start looking into replacement options through this thread
I posted last back in June about this car (this post is a reply to that). Back then, it was about what my next move was going to be reagarding the oil change and inspection. At the time of that post, the car was at 32,723 miles. Finally 33,611 miles I took care of the oil change from the dealer for $34.09. I really should learn how to do my own oil change so I can save some money, but at least I also got the multi-point inspection which I think addressed all the items which should have been covered according to that Edmunds site.
No problem issues. The main items covered and marked satisfactory were battery, fluid levels, external drive belts/radiator hoses, brake lines/hoses/parking brake cable, shock/struts/suspension/tie rod ends/steering gear, exhaust, and drive shaft boots. The tires are still in good shape at 7/32
As far as I know, as of then and now, there's nothing else to cover.
The other noteworthy thing happened after I was standing through the sunroof one day for something and I messed something up because after that, on the highway, there was a small windnoise coming in. Finally got around to taking it to the dealer on 8/30 at 36,391 miles - AFTER my warranty just expired. So they said they'd meet me halfway on the cost and just charge me $50 to reinstall the sunroof seal.
Only unexpected thing so far has been an Internal failure of the Canister Shut valve which occurred in November, 2008. The car was at 122,566 miles at the time and the cost was $300ish or something (I got it lower w/ a $100 off coupon I randomly had for that dealer).
as to the 17" tires, you can go with them, but of course you need new wheels too, so will not be cheap. the V6 model came with 17", so there is a plus 1 size that will get you right about the same overall diameter. the 55 series ones with the same section width will be lower overall, one impact of which is screwing up your speedometer/odometer slightly.
not sure I would want the firestone dealer touching the idle speed (since it is no longer a little screw on the side of the carb!). not sure what there is to do other than look at the tach to make sure it is idling at the approriate speed, and evenly.
I had brakes done at Mr. Tire. did a nice job, and used upgraded aftermarket pads. and a lot cheaper than the dealer. With 166K on the clock already, I would not worry too much about having the dealer do this!
and the serpentine belt, if original, is probably on borrowed time. Look for dry rot/cracks, etc. As noted, not very expensive part, but can be a hassle in labor, but certainly DIY if you want to give it a try!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
That depends on who you talk to.
I think the next two things that I see most around here and elsewhere is changing brake fluid and changing transmission fluid. You may want to seek advice on those items and then decide how you will handle it on your car. Otherwise, I don't think people have any major issues with the Maint. Minder.
That depends on who you talk to.
I think the next two things that I see most around here and elsewhere is changing brake fluid and changing transmission fluid. You may want to seek advice on those items and then decide how you will handle it on your car. Otherwise, I don't think people have any major issues with the Maint. Minder suggestions. Although some have problems with the system in general and like to do things strictly on time and/or mileage.
The car had been left with a Honda Dealer here in Clarksville, MD. They got back to me this morning and the following have been handled.
1) Oil Change was $20 since I had my own oil and filter.
2) The brake fluid flush was $169.95 but then I told them that I had the fluid already in the trunk which took the price down to $125 for labor only. Then I made them aware of a 15% coupon I had and that made the total $85. I was ok with that, and that was along same lines as firestone's pricing assuming I could even convince them to use a part I didn't get from them (I mentioned they were giving me a hard time about this and they hadn't a few months ago w/ the '07 CR-V brake fluid flush).
3) They said with a $129 diagnostic fee they would hook my car to the computer and could take care of the ABS light and inspecting the idle speed in one shot. Luckily, a coupon saved me here also because I had a 50% off engine light check coupon so that took it down to $65.
(Stickguy, you had some concern on only having the dealer handle idling speed in your post. I only intended to have this done at the dealer. )
They just got back to me and said that regarding the ABS, the rear wheel sensor is needed and that's $232.
4) Headlight would be $15 and no charge for the labor. I mentioned I may already have a headlight inthe car passenger side that works and they said if it did, there would be no charge for it which I ws happy about because from what I understand, i's not easy to take care of the headlight (haven't done it myself yet on any of the hondas).
So all those item are being carried out right now. The total will be $191ish to $205ish depending on the headlight.
So here's what's not being handled by them right now which was mentioned earlier
1) Brake light - they said it was $6 but I think I can handle that on my own. Just need to figure out what to grab and how much it would cost. Maybe I can just grab something from dealer when car is picked up.
2) The brakes-The verdict was severe on their end too. Replace rear rotors and pads. The front brakework is pads for sure, and they said they may or may not need new rotors but then looked closely and said they should be replaced.
The cost breakdown is:
Rear: $205 rotors + $80 pads + labor = $500ish more or less
Front: rotors are $17 each more + pads and labor similarly priced = $34 + $500ish more or less - or (if the front rotors don't have to be replaced I'd be looking at $325is)
What I don't know is the actual parts, assuming OEM.
Compare these costs to Firestone which I will most probably go with:
Rear: wagner therma quietp pads ($69.99) + qualis rotors ($105 each) + $90 labor = $370
Front: same brand pads ($59.99) + same brand rotor ($68.99) + labor ($90) = $290
Pretty decent savings in going with Firestone. If the dealer had said the the front rotors didn't need to be replaced and could just be resurfaced. I could then try to see if they would accept another local competitor coupon for a Honda dealer nearby which has a front brake special which includes resurfacing rotors for $189.95 (down from their normal cost of $250 which is still cheaper than this dealer.
(Stickguy, you mentioned how Mr Tire put in upgraded after market brake pads in your post. What kind of brake pads were they? Would you recommend I use them in my car?)
3) The battery was never brought up but pretty sure there really is an issue there and I want to try to see what sears would do with it anyways
4) serpentine belt never brought up so I called and left a message on that to hear the dealer's thoughts (thanks for making me aware of it in your same post stickguy), I don't recall seeing anything in the maintenance guides about it. The dealer got back to me and said it would be $175 to handle.
Regarding everything else that was brought up in the replies that I haven't covered:
Stickguy, regarding your posts which I have referred to already, you also mentioned fuel system item, yeah I think it's probably junk too.
The only thing remaining is your tire feedback which I'll cover in my tire series of posts.
Edhollow, in your post, you gave some advice on cheaping out on the air filter and cabin air filter and oil filters. Thanks for the info, how do these compare to what I get from the dealer or handa-accessories.com? Also you mentioned replacing the air filter and cabin air filter every 15,000 miles but I do it every 30k miles.
dealer is very high for this job.
taillight bulbs is simple, but for $6, I would let them do it (then again, I am lazy).
The serpentine belt I believe is only listed as an inspect and replace if needed item. 160K, you are pushing your luck most likely, and that baby has given it's all.
Do the battery at Walmart. 1/2 the price of the dealer, and free install. They are also top rated by CR. get the higher output one if they have it, for maybe $10 extra.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
actually, I would have tried this anyway. I had a nissan Quest, and it had the same flaw. Mine went bad after warranty period (and it did not occur to me to grovel with them). So, I went to a local fancy audio shop. They pulled the radio out, and resoldered the connections on the board, then put it back in. Cost maybe $100? way cheaper than replacing the expensive OEM head unit on the deluxe stereo we had.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Thanks,
Michael
Or at least test both sides of the switch with a test light, to make sure current is going through it.
Mrbill
Never had to replace a clutch before - 230k on my Integra and the clutch feels fine.
1. Driver
2. Geography
3. Design of the car's powertrain & weight
So, worst case scenario----unskillful driver, San Francisco, car with low-torque engine and economy differential carrying passengers.
Really, a "load test" is the only sure way to test a battery. Just ready voltage off it won't cut it. We could get you the same reading by putting flashlight batteries together, but they wouldn't start your car.
Was running fine parked in garage as usual next morning started fine but would not accelerate above 2000 RPM or go forward above 20 to 25 MPH. Idles at 1200 sitting in PARK. TCS lights MIL and maint light all on. Battery tested low Replaced with new Battery $100.00. OBD2 Codes read Emission. Cleared codes, set security code. Attempted Idle Learn. NO SUCCESS. Towed to mechanic $100.00 said throttle body was bad replaced for 700.00,...mechanic (dealer) said needed new fuse box add $200.00,..No apparent fix?? Any ideas before ship sinks? Thanks for any help or assistance..
Was running fine parked in garage as usual next morning started fine but would not accelerate above 2000 RPM or go forward above 20 to 25 MPH. Idles at 1200 sitting in PARK. TCS lights MIL and maint light all on. Battery tested low Replaced with new Battery $100.00. OBD2 Codes read Emission. Cleared codes, set security code. Attempted Idle Learn. NO SUCCESS. Towed to mechanic $100.00 said throttle body was bad replaced for 700.00,...mechanic (dealer) said needed new fuse box add $200.00,..No apparent fix?? Any ideas before ship sinks? Thanks for any help or assistance..
I purchased a 2007 Honda Accord EX 4-cyl auto a few months ago, and so far I've been very happy with it. However, over the past couple of weeks, I've noticed that when I accelerate, the car feels a bit slower than normal, and I feel a bit of a vibration in the pedal when I accelerate; the engine sounds a bit louder too. When I'm cruising on the highway, no big deal. After accelerating from a stop or just driving in the city- no matter whether the car is warmed up or not- I can feel the buzz, and the transmission seems delayed as well- I've been noticing the shifts have been rougher and more noticeable. Sometimes when I go 35mph on a flat city road and stopped pressing the gas pedal, I can feel/hear a bit of vibration and know that the car probably wants to upshift/downshift (?)
I wasn't quite sure what to make of the slightly louder,slower, and buzzier feel, so I resigned myself to thinking it was normal, but a few days ago I pulled out of my school's parking lot and was surprised when I practically flew out of the parking lot because the car felt much more responsive, and I got that smooth, quiet feeling back, at least for part of my drive. I looked at my RPMs, and it seemed the engine more effortlessly went to higher ones. The biggest difference I noticed was in that when I was going up a hill and had to pause for a moment, when I accelerated the car didn't feel like it missed a beat.
No check engine light on the vehicle came on- do you think I could have a problem with my transmission? Or could this be something very minor?
Thanks! This is my first Honda, and if this is just a small issue, it likely won't be my last since I'm otherwise very impressed with the vehicle.
Do you know if you've had the transmission fluid changed? If not make sure this is being done every 60,000 miles (I think thats what it calls for).
Also, I would consider getting the throttle body cleaned. Like you said the problem seems to be minor...but to much carbon in the throttle body could affect acceleration.
I could be way off base on the what I've said above, but I believe they are items worth looking at.
Ultimately what was done was:
1) oil change - $10.39, since I Brought in my own oil -
2) complimentary inspection - $0
3) the Idle speed inspection + the ABS service Light - $54.98 - due to the 50% off coupon I had - the idle speed was fine (now I have to figure out when I check it next since there's no more mileage intervals in the owner's manual/ownerslink) and regarding that ABS light, the right rear wheel speed sensor will need to be replaced and it will be $232.28 installed
4) Brake fluid flush - $101.92- I mentioned the breakdown in my last post for this. It was supposed to be $170 but since I brought my own brake fluid it went down to $125, then another 15% off due to coupon was supposed to make it $85 (although the math isn't adding up right). They forgot to use my brake fluid but kept the price around where it should ahve been. I know it's a bit more, but earlier there is a savings of $10 randomly on the diagnostic thing I mentioned so it evened out.
5) headlight -$13.35
6) other fees-28.61-random admin serrvice fee, hazrd waste, and shop supplies added $28.61
So 2 of the items that were remaining I will take care of later:
1) the ABS rear wheel speed sensor mentioned already
2) The drive belt ($175)
And the brakes had a final price of $1055 for both front and rear pads and rotors, which was too high for me. So I went to Firestone for that same day. Total was $628.27 w/ $162 in labor, $430.16 in parts, $9.72 in shop supplies, and $26.39 in tax. I saved 10% using a coupon I had.
The one other service item I didn't mention in my last post was my usual walmart visit for the complimentary lifetime rotation and balance. Something I've been doing.. I want to say for 100k miles now? That's usually how I kick off my 10k service cycle - walmart for the rotation balance, firestone for alignment, dealer for oil change. sometimes I'll do the oil change wherever but usually I keep this pattern. The visit to walmart was in august when the car was at 164470 miles.
Last interesting note. My sister hydroplaned today and hit a curb and now one of the front axles is all messed up. I'm assuming the tire is flat and rim is bent too. So.. this will be fun.
in the bulb holder. At one postion the lights came on one at
a time. Understand this was an individual postion for each of the front
courtesy lights.
The have continued to work correctly for 3 days now. They didn't work for seven months.
Thanks to all of you for the suggestions, I probably will have this
problem again.
REPLY to my original post of #5254