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The brake light fluid level is supposed to indicate the fluid has dropped due to the pads wearing out (unless it is leaking somehow). As the pads wear, they don't release as far so essentially there has to be more fluid pushed into the lines to create contact. The manual even says not to add fluid, since it is an indicator of pad wear.
Unless you mean that the fluid is full, but the low level light is on anyway?
Probably best to have a shop check out the brakes at least. The chains all do it for free.
Oops, I see that the dealer told you these were the problems. So in that case, I have no idea about the switch, but it sounds like it does not require a new MC, since they would have told you that, and those babies are expensive! How much to replace the switch?
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/HondaJosh/2009-04-19_222730_zzz.pdf
I used to have a TSB about this problem. From what I remember, the float gets stuck in the down position, and the float is not removable. Tap on the master cylinder near the switch/float (with a big screw driver handle), and see if you can free the float, if not the master cylinder would have to be replaced. This is what I remember from the TSB, so it may not be totally accurate.
Also, when I let go of the gas pedal near the top it also squeaks--so my gas pedal squeaks only when it is positioned slightly away from its "rest" position. Do you think the squeaking can be resolved by applying grease/lubricant to the gas pedal mechanism?
I won't be going to my auto mechanic until about 2 months for my scheduled maintenance, so do you think it's better to wait until I go to my auto mechanic to get the problem diagnosed?
I'm not trying to argue here; I actually recently sold my Accord because of niggling quality issues. Luckily, all were covered under warranty (a 2006 2.4L EX Sedan).
What I can say as criticism of your dealer or whoever services your car, is that both these items should have been noticed long before they got to the disintegration stage.
As for your G20, I'd bet that a good mechanic could have examined it closely and found items that were overdue for replacement, but just didn't break altogether during your tenure.
Every car is a little different in how it is used, what it is exposed to,things like that. Age, environment, road conditions, climate---all of this affects why one car gets 64K on bushings and another 94K.
That is, after all, almost 3 times around the earth!
Visiting Host
I assume you are a Honda employee and have to defend the brand. If you really want to defend the brand, encourage your employers to not let quality control slip.
Ford or Hyudai? Or, four times around the earth?
At 100K, the water pump, belt, and fluid levels will be changed. The belt could go longer, but it's maintenance.
BTW, My 04 Accord still has the factory belt and it has the printing "made in the USA"
Mrbill
The brand of car is quite irrelevant to me.
I routinely replace belts and hoses in my cars, based strictly on time and mileage. It's not worth it to me to risk an engine for a few hundred dollars.
Battery hits 5 years? Gone. Belts and hoses hit 60K? Gone. Wipers? Once a year, they're all replaced. Brakes? 3/4 wear, they're out. Tires? 4/32nd, they're gone. Coolant? Every two years. Brake fluid? Every two years. A "nut and bolt" all-around- the- car tightening? Every two years.
Given the tremendous good luck I've had with my cars, I'm staying with the "pro-active" approach rather than the re-active one (i.e., fix it before it breaks, not when it breaks).
Is my cost per mile higher than most people's? Probably. Will they break down more often or lose their car sooner? Probably. Machines are by nature unpredictable.
Oh, I don't wax my cars though. I mostly care about reliability, because it's so important to my livelihood.
This is in SD though - not much pollution to eat at the rubber.
If your Infinity was so great, why didn't you buy another one, instead of the Honda? I would bet that not all G20 owners were as lucky as you, and actually had a problem or two before the 100k mile mark. My first Accord (92) was so good to me (12 years 140k miles), I bought a new one in 03. The 03 has been just as reliable as the first, to this point (7 years 81k miles). People claim Honda's reliability has gone down, but I don't see it from my view. The 03 has been just as reliable, and is bigger and better than the 92 was, in just about every respect. By the way, my original serpentine belt and compliance bushings are still doing great. Honda owners get lucky too.
You know, in the old days Honda made a Civic, an Accord and maybe (?) a Prelude around that time. That was it. And for 1979 or so, the Civic was a pretty good car---but today we wouldn't consider buying a brand new 1979 Civic--we'd think it unsophisticated, noisy and unreliable. Torque steer was really bad, and you had to manually shift the automatic transmission to get into high gear. It was so tinny you could total it with your bare hands. It had tiny tires and cloth seats and had trouble getting up steep hills.
But you can't argue with the success of the Accord. I mean, GEEZ, has there ever been a more successful Japanese car? Corolla, maybe, but it's in a different price class where price was a strong factor.
The car has over 300,000 miles on it now, so it has been reliable overall.
I expect my Accord to go just as far. Nearly at 100k now after 3.5 years. I'll give it to one of my boys when it gets about 200k and he can drive it for another 100k miles.
Will wait another 5K miles or 4 more months.
This could be a lot of things (shift position switch, MICU, ECU, wiring). You could get trouble codes from the MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit), which is part of the under-dash fuse box, but it's a pretty complicated procedure. Got a Helm shop manual? If the "Check Engine" light is not on, the ECU (engine/transmission computer), you probably wouldn't get any codes with a scanner.
Are there any other problems associated with the "D" light? Transmission shifting funny?
Any thoughts on this? Also, does this engine (V-6) suffer other damage if the belt breaks?
I have a similar question. My 2003 Honda Accord has less than 15,000 (yes 15,000) miles on it. It was always garaged, has been very well taken care of and is a V-6.
I was told by several people that I should replace the timing belt NOW as opposed to waiting...(based on age alone). I heard there could be severe engine damage if the belt lets go. The rubber gaskets, the paint, the vinyl moldings are all in incredibly nice shape. Could it be the timing belt rots with AGE that much? Anyone out there that would take a chance and drive it for another year or two? I plan to drive it less than 12,000/year from this point on.
The problem is You have been told by many to change the belt and you now have that in the back of your mind.. Do you wait till 20,000? No answer.. Not worth the worry.. Change it .. You should own the car and not the car owning you
Shop prices on a belt and water-pump, they can vary wildly with reputable shops. My normal shop wanted $720 to do the job. My dealer? $850. The mechanic who worked on my car after an accident charged $400 plus the price of the water-pump. I went there, spent $478. This was two years and 30k miles ago, so figure $600-$700 a good price, maybe a bit higher for your V6.
PS: Yes, if the timing belt breaks, it will do major damage to the engine.
Coolant & oil still not leaking or burning. Knock on woods.
Dealer said the timing belt is due to time.
I thought of postponing it for a few more months, but with the winter is coming the last thing I want is to be stranded on the highway with a snowstorm.
Not worth the risk. Will do it after Thnaskgiving.
I hang around on 4 or 5 different Accord forums, and I have yet to hear of one J30 (7th gen Accord V6) engine with a timing belt failure. That tells me these engines aren't prone to timing belt failures.
I did change a regular belt once on my 1980 Scirocco, because it was a little frayed, but it was nowhere near breaking.
The need for replacement at 90k/7 yrs. applies only to V6 engines, correct? I have never heard of a similar chain replacement recommendation for the 4 cylinder, and I'm definitely not looking forward to such an expensive job with my 2006 I4.
Chains have been known to fail as well (I once owned a Chrysler K car where it happened) but I haven't heard of any such problems with Accords. Is it not reasonable to expect to drive the car for 10 yrs or more (or say 100k miles) without any such problems?
So, the bottom line on gen7/I4's is that the track record is a short one. I put my trust in the Accord power train when I purchased the car, and I've never doubted my judgment. I don't expect any rude surprises, but you never know for sure, I suppose.
Thanks in advance for your assistance.