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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • michael2595michael2595 Member Posts: 72
    In my book that is way too long to have not changed them... Just ask yourself the question.. do you want to be stuck 3 am in the middle of nowhere becuase you didnt change a 25 dollar hose.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    Partly depends on where you live. Ozone breaks down rubber. If you live in a city it will break down faster. Not a problem in South Dakota - copper doesn't even turn green here.

    I still have original hoses on my 1990 Integra - they look and feel fine.
  • grampy1grampy1 Member Posts: 140
    I have a 2007 Accord ,3 liter that i can't figure out how to get the air filter out.

    I can get the cover loosened,but can't swing the thing out of the way to get to the filter.
    Any help here would be appreciated .
  • dek97993dek97993 Member Posts: 8
    go to the youtube website and type in "2003-2007 honda accord engine air filter replacement". it should show you how to change it. also can look for changing the cabin filter, behind the glove compartment, that is a breeze to do if you know how. they should both be on youtube. hope this helps!
  • grampy1grampy1 Member Posts: 140
    Bingo!!! Thanks much for the air filter,and cabin air filter change procedure.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    just had a check engine light come on. Scanguage says it is the o2 sensor. Anybody replace their o2 sensor yet?

    Wondering if something else could be triggering it that is making the o2 sensor readings off. For example I still have my original spark plugs - incomplete combustion might throw off the readings.

    Actually had the plugs in my cart to order before the light went, but don't want to put them in if the 02 is really bad and might foul them. On the other hand don't want to spend $180 on a new o2 sensor if I don't need to.

    Will probably just pull a plug and look at it. If the color is right then combustion is fine and I will be comfortable replacing the plugs.

    Would be curious if anybody else went through this.
  • michael2595michael2595 Member Posts: 72
    It may be different so take it with a grain of salt.. Same thing happened to my sons subaru.. Took it to the mechanic...thinking it was just a measly oxygen sensor... nope.. It was the catalytic converter.. Again.. This is on a suby..
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    Hope it is not the cat. The scan gauge has a different code for the cat so hopefully it is not the problem.

    Thanks for the head up though.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The codes don't tell you the component that is defective, only the system or circuit that is in distress. So yeah, that code could mean a lot of things---might be the 02, but could be wiring to it, an exhaust leak---anything that can throw off fuel mixture will upset the 02. Any good mechanic can test the 02 for you.
  • edhollowedhollow Member Posts: 8
    Sounds like your following the right course of maintenance & process of elimination, especially if your plugs are due for a change w/regards to mileage; 105k-115k. However, if you find that your Oxygen sensor is in need of replacement, Rockauto.com website, is an excellent way to offset the high pricing, anywhere else!
  • sockpuppet1969sockpuppet1969 Member Posts: 308
    What code is coming up? The following engine lights related to emissions issues have come up on my 2003 Accord 4 cyl.

    6 years ago, at 59K miles, I had a Code P0141 come up and my mechanic replaced the rear oxygen sensor which fixed the problem. It cost $166 at the time. No problems with that code since.

    In March 2008 at 92K miles I had another code come up, this time P0420. I kept clearing it but eventually wound up replacing the catalytic converter at 111K miles in order to get it to pass state inspection. That worked briefly but the light eventually came back on. Turns out there was a Service bulletin (03-063) requiring a ECM/PCM software update with AAA040 program for ECM/PCM incorectly interpreting sensor inputs resulting in that specific DTC. That cost $93 to perform but had to be done at the dealer. Wish I had known that before spending a grand on the cat. Anyway, no trouble with that code since.

    I'm about to hit 140K miles and car is still running like new. Hope this helps.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    I get codes 1157 (air fuel ratio sensor high voltage) and 0134 (air fuel sensor 1 heater system malfunction)

    Did not think to check service bulletins though good idea.

    120k miles right now so plugs are due anyway. Have to special order the ngk. Anybody know if the bosch are any good. I can get those locally.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    I am running the Bosch IR Fusion plugs. I purchased them with a rebate for $3.00 or so a plug, much cheaper than the NGK. However, please note they are only good for 50K or 60K miles. I have an 07 4-cyl. EXL.

    Good luck!
  • ezshift5ezshift5 Member Posts: 858
    .......the NGK plug (#6994) is currently available on the left coast - AutoZone - at $9.99 plus tax. Amazon has this same plug at $9.81. My favorite dealership - we have six within a 20 mile radius - wants close to $24/plug.

    This sailor's J30a4 had these plugs from day one off the showroom floor. No complaints this far, no drop in mpg at 109,000 miles. I plan on a 120,000 mile R&R. The idea of install and forget for six or so years appeals...................

    ez
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    Just did the plugs. NGK IR $25 for 4 at autozone with a coupon. Mileage at 120,600.

    Still have check engine light. Looks like o2 sensor is next I will do the upstream one first. $70 for a denso at autozone with a coupon.

    At least it was not a waste doing the spark plugs, they were not too expensive and they were due according to the book. They looked amazingly good for that mileage - just a very light tan color and some minor rounding at the edges. I have seen 15,000 mile plugs that looked much worse. They could probably have gone another 50k. So looks like combustion is fine.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 Member Posts: 858
    ............that's a very encouraging report on NGK plugs - IIRC , K24/J30a4 plugs are identical for the Gen7 Accord..............my sole regret is not being aware (of AutoZone coupons).............. all the best, ez.......
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    big30 for $30 off of a $75 purchase. Not a bad savings. I can always get up to $75 with oil filters etc.
  • slacker10000slacker10000 Member Posts: 13
    I have a 2006 honda accord v6 that just hit 100,000 miles. Had the car since new. The only maintenance I have done is oil change every 3,000 miles. At 70,000 miles I changed the transmission fluid. I drive the car mostly highway, with some stop and go during rush hour. Car drives fine. Now that I am above 100,000 miles, what maintenance should I do? Any help here would be appeciated.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    You're due for a timing belt/water pump replacement at 105,000 miles.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,507
    plugs are coming up too. If you haven't done it already, coolant also.

    other than that and the normal filters, should be good to go.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • austinman7austinman7 Member Posts: 313
    My 2007 SE V6 has always had a relatively harsh ride due, I believe, to the low profile tires. I'm considering switching to the 16" wheels that are standard on the 4 cyl. SE, to get higher profile tires. Just wondering if anyone has gone that route, and to what result.

    Thanks.
  • michael2595michael2595 Member Posts: 72
    In my experience low profiles are great on hot tar and really dont belong on your honda.. Of course the ride is harsh.. Look at how much rubber you have and the mileage you get from them is terrible... I never owned my low profiles, I leased them.... Warranties arent worth a dime because 99% of the time you get punctured on the sidewall and if you drive them in Winter you are taking you and your families lives at risk.... I would always get 4 snows on different wheels and put them on in winter if possible.. Some cars just dont have the clearance.. Yours will. My low profiles would get no more than 25, 000 miles and boy could I feel it.
  • slacker10000slacker10000 Member Posts: 13
    Okay - this may be dumb luck, but after posting this the car makes a funny sound upon accelerating. Looks like I need to bring it in. Sounds like a metal rattling sound when accelerating. Any thoughts here - - looks like the timing belt will have to be on hold here.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    sounds like pinging--perhaps a bad knock sensor.
  • dolfan1dolfan1 Member Posts: 218
    I just replaced the tires on my 07, same model. Put on MXV's this time (the next step up). Supposedly they're supposed to ride a little better, but I can't say I notice any real difference. The tire guy told me with that 55 series tire, you're just not going to get that soft a ride. I can't imagine what those cars with those really ridiculous rims must feel like.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    I went from 16 to 15 with my snows. 205/60/16 in summer. and 205/65/15 in winter. I figured the taller sidewall would help in the bad winter driving conditions.
  • austinman7austinman7 Member Posts: 313
    Yeah, I see those cars too, with the ultra low profile tires -- looks like they're riding on the rims. Got to be a hard ride.
  • slacker10000slacker10000 Member Posts: 13
    Okay - to close the loop here. The noise was an inner heat shield that came loose. Took car to the dealer and they clamped it for 1 hour labor. After negotiating the other maintenance, I decided to have everything done at one shot. They did the timing belt, water pump, tune up, all filters, any changeable fluids (oil, transmission, radiator,etc), new front brake pads and rotors, etc. I am sure I am missing some things and probably had other non-essential things done to the car - eg, wiper blades. The total bill was $1,500. Dealer in Madison, NJ was nice and provided a free loaner car. Bill was probably a little high, but was worth it for the convienence of everything done in one day.
  • tom017tom017 Member Posts: 16
    Here's a new problem--
    I have a 2005 Accord LX 4 cylinder automatic with 29,000 miles. The car is well-maintained.
    I put new tires on it in spring of this year.

    In early summer, I was passing a car on the freeway and accelerated to about 70 MPH. Just when I hit 70, the car started violently shaking and shuddering like someone loosened all my lug nuts and the wheels were wobbling. I had to pull it off to the side of the road and stop. I checked the car and couldn't find anything wrong. I started up again and everything was fine and drove home smoothly.

    The next morning, I had the car at the tire shop checking all the tires. They rebalanced all the tires but said none of them were really out of balance to start with.

    That was about 4 months ago.

    The car has run excellent and smoothly since until yesterday morning. I was in a similar scenario...I was accelerting on an on-ramp on the freeway. When I approached 70 MPH, the car started violently shaking again. I was in heavy traffic and couldn't stop, but pulled off the freeway at the next exit and stopped at a traffic light. The shaking stopped and hasn't started again.

    Over the summer, I had everything on the car checked, all the suspension components and wheels look like new. The car only has 29,000 miles and hasn't been abused. This shaking only happened twice, but I'm afraid something is seriously wrong and may cause an accident. I had it on the freeway just last Saturday and I was cruising at 75 MPH perfectly smoothly without a problem.

    Anybody have any experience with this or have any suggestions what's happening or going wrong??
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    All that for $1500. Good deal.
    You probably missed the accessory belt.
  • slacker10000slacker10000 Member Posts: 13
    Yes - have them check the heat shields for the exhaust. I had same problem at 70mph and that fixed the problem.
  • michael2595michael2595 Member Posts: 72
    I have originals on 2007 which are the michelin MXV.. I must be lucky.. The ride is still very quiet and 50% of treads is gone
  • tom017tom017 Member Posts: 16
    How can the heat shields cause the wheels to shake and shudder??

    Just a weird coincidence, about 2 weeks ago, I had the heat shield on the catalytic converter repaired. I had this pristeen like-new stainless steel exhaust and this cheap heat shield that rusted and rotted off like a cheap 5 cent tin can. They wanted to take it off but said not to park on grass. Well my grandson's ball games has a grass parking lot. I don't want the car to go KA-BOOM, so I had the heat shield fixed.

    That's when I had all the suspension checked. Everything was fine.

    But the shaking happend 4 months ago and didn't happen again until a few days ago.

    How could this create a shaking feeling that the wheels are all loose?
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    Installed upstream O2 sensor this weekend. Fixed the check engine light problem. The old one was pretty well covered in black soot. Kind of surprising as the plugs looked perfect.

    Pretty easy to get the sensor out, but it took several hours to remove the plastic clip. Wound up having to cut it apart - what a pain.

    Debating on the idle learn procedure after doing this. Thought I saw it recommended in the shop manual somewhere.

    Long trip this week - will see if mpg is up with the new sensor, spark plugs and air filter (it had been down just a tad lately)
  • weekendpartierweekendpartier Member Posts: 1
    IT's not an alignment problem: It's uneven camber settings: HONDA released a TSA in 2003:
    http://hondalac.com/service/Bulletins/x03-906e.pdf
  • slacker10000slacker10000 Member Posts: 13
    Well - - I have to stand corrected, and you are right. I still have the problem with the shake and shudder. If you find out what this is, could you please let me know too?

    Thanks
  • shufflesshuffles Member Posts: 50
    Wow! When I went to that link I thought: That is my wife's car. The dealer had said there was no problem. The tire store I go to said it would have to go to a body shop to have the body bent to cure the camber. I got an estimate for that - $1,200. The car had been pulling to the right without any uneven tire wear. Today I took a print-out of that service bulletin to the tire store and they agreed to try it and accepted Honda's time estimate of one hour labor. Well, it took more than two hours but I got out the door with an alignment that meets the specs for a total of $207. I am happy. Thank you very much for your post! It saved me a thousand bucks. I haven't driven her Accord yet, but the print-out of the alignment results looked very good.
  • tom017tom017 Member Posts: 16
    I had the brakes on the Accord done last week. The Honda dealer wanted over $600 so I went to an extremely reputable local brake repair shop for way less than a third of that cost. I told him that the car is shaking and vibrating badly at higher speeds. He said that sounds like an out-of-round rotor or drum.

    He changed the front pads and turned the rotors. He pulled the rear drums and showed me everything back there was loose and out of adjustment--even though the drums still had the original seals on them. How they got out of adjustment--I don't know?? Everything was original. The shoes were like new. He turned the drums, cleaned everything and adjusted the rear shoes.

    So far, the car has been running very smoothly. The brakes are solid and quiet. I've had it on the freeway a couple of times but wasn't really able to open it up this week because of some road construction and lane closures with some heavy police enforcement. It's not worth the hassle.

    But so far...so good!!
  • wise1wise1 Member Posts: 91
    edited November 2011
    I live in middle Ga. and would like to know who you recommend of those 5 independent service shops for Honda automobiles? My 07 accord will be needing some maintence soon. Thanks. :shades: Any thoughts on a Honda battery instead of an Interstate or something else??? My ACCORD SE will soon need a new battery as the original is getting weak.
  • dek97993dek97993 Member Posts: 8
    sorry, don't live in Ga area, so can't give any advice on local shops; but I would recommend against any OEM Honda batteries or brake pads. I also have an 07 accord and have had problems with early brake pad wear and weak battery as well. when my battery goes, i plan to get whatever the local bj's is offering.
  • ckone0814ckone0814 Member Posts: 71
    Looking at buying a used 05 EX-L V6 coupe. 78k miles, nice shape and well maintained. Will be commuter and be driven into the ground. Other than timing belt (@ 7 yrs) are there any common issues I should inspect or look for? Thanks!
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Member Posts: 801
    As you mentioned, the timing belt needs to be replaced at 7yrs OR 105k miles, whichever comes first. My dad just had the timing belt replaced on his 2007 Accord SE V6 4-door (and he pushed it to 127k miles) and it was around $600 at a local independent repair shop.

    Honda had some extensive transmission problems, especially with the V6/5AT combo, in the early 2000s. The 2003-2004 Accords were part of a major recall and class action settlement. But complaints on 2005 models are also much higher than average on various consumer websites and with the NHTSA. So it appears that the transmission problems continued into the 2005 model year??? To be safe, I'd call around to a few shops that specialize in Hondas (and maybe even a transmission repair shop) and ask for any input they have on the 2005 Accord's reliability. It could save you a lot of trouble down the road...

    Good luck!
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • wise1wise1 Member Posts: 91
    What brand specifically do you recommend for brake pad replacement??? Have you had problems with the front pads or the rear pads??? What tires have you had success with on your 07 Accord?? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks!
  • dek97993dek97993 Member Posts: 8
    I recommend going to tirerack.com. They have an excellent website that will give you a variety of options and information of different type of pads. I had a lot of problems with my rear pads wearing out early at around 20k miles, which wound up scoring the rotors. I was told by the dealership it was due to "salt" in the local environment, which was BS. I eventually got the dealership to replace the rear rotors and pads for free, but soon started to have problems with uneven rotor and pad wear at around 10,000 miles on the new pads!! I argued that this problems is on various websites for the new accords, but was told nothing is wrong with the caliper system. I eventually replaced the pads myself and found that the small retaining brackets on the calipers that the pads slide into, did not allow the pads to fit properly and had held the pads in a position that wasn't flush against the calipers...hence the pads were held at an angle and eventually started to grind into the rotors. I don't recommend anyone else do this (difficult to describe without pics), but i removed them and put the replacement pads in without the side retaining clips, and the pads seem to fit much better. They weren't loose, no noise, no rattles, and I haven't had any problems in the last 15,000 miles. No apparent problems with the front caliper system, I just replaced the pads without any adjustments and the after market pads are wearing great. (as for the type, i recommend deciding which material works best for your driving needs, ceramic vs. metallic, etc. some have longer lives, but get hotter, cause more dust, noise, etc).
    I am still driving on my original OEM tires, but switch them every winter with my dunlop snow tires, which I ordered from tire rack as well. I have over 52,000 miles and the originals have about 50% of original depth and the snows have about 75%. I think the original bridgestones have very good high speed control and dry cornering, but tend to be very poor on road noise or any wet or slick surfaces. I personally would not get them again and would opt for a better compromise on wet weather handling and noise. If you can't check out tire rack, another place you usually can't go wrong is the local Sam's club, BJ's or Cosco. They tend to have middle of the road to good quality tires at fairly good prices, provide tire repair, balancing and rotation for free! Hope this helps.
  • fixitdaddy1fixitdaddy1 Member Posts: 14
    I don't know where U reside?; I live in AZ, w/all the heat, & inherentconditions. I have used NAPA ceramic brake pads--they have operated, well, in the heat. Previously, my wife's '04 Accord EX sedan, 4cyl, A/T, was experiencing warped rotors; so I changed the rotors to HP, w/cross-drilled & grooved, so they would avoid compacted brake dust (causing glazing) and rotate alot cooler. This seemed to do the "trick". After all, it's easier to change rotors, than a person's braking habits!
    On the tires, I have stuck with Michelin Primacy MXV4's; smooth rolling, quiet, and durable (at least 90,000 miles, even though they're rated for 60k). We rotate them every 5,000 miles; and check for alignment every 15,000; align if necessary, but certainly align no more than every 30,00 miles.
  • jonahdogjonahdog Member Posts: 28
    I agree with tire rack as good resource. I have purchased tires, rotors and brake pads from them. Very satisfied. I have tried kumho (ok) goodyear (eh) Yokohama (eh) but always come back to Michelin. Have had 5 accords and 2 civics thru the years (currently 3 accords). The 2007 is favorite.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 Member Posts: 858
    .........sounds great - but I'm unclear - if you're saying you've got 90k on your Primacy MXV4 Michelins - - - - well, you're making my day.

    FWIW: new tread depth is 11/32; at 42,000 on my three year old Primacys, there's 8/32 remaining.............. Now that is impressive to this sailor.

    ez..
  • tldtld Member Posts: 37
    I'm interested to hear more about the HP, w/cross-drilled rotors you installed. Has the driving characteristics changed when applying the brakes? I don't like the way the Accords grab, especially in slow speed rush hour driving. It's very hard to make smooth driving. BTW, I have 76K on the stock pads and the front are warped.
  • fixitdaddy1fixitdaddy1 Member Posts: 14
    Yes, in response to a previous query of 90,000 miles on the Primacy MXV4--that's exactly what we received, driving miles; on the Primacys.
    In regards, to the high-performance rotors; slotted & cross-drilled--great slow speed driving characteristics, during rush hour driving. Where you "feel" the slotting effect, is when they grab at high speed 50 to 75 mph, on highways or the freeway; but no warping, or steering wheel "shudder". I'm getting ready to try the "carbon metallic" pads (the kind that are used on race cars--becuz they run cooler & brake well) today, 12-4-11. We'll see, how they perform!
    Also, if U have rear discs, as well, it would behoove U, not to apply your parking brake; as this will apply heat from the brake pad, clamping, on the rotor; and warp your rotors!! Also, every time U "turn" your rotors, you shave metal, which thins your rotors, and increases the liklihood, of warping! Hope this helps?!
  • rex_frex_f Member Posts: 5
    I'd appreciate some advice if you have experience in this area.

    I have an '04 Accord V6 with 76,000 miles. Has been running fine, although gradually over the last few years the gas mileage has gotten worse. Now down to around 20mpg around town and maybe 26 freeway.

    The Check Engine Light lit up. ODB code p2243 Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) VCENT Line High Voltage It went out by itself. Now it is back.

    I'm trying to decide whether to just change the sensor, or pay to have a pro troubleshoot it. Seems like it could be a bad sensor, or it could be any of a number of things, such as fouled plug in bank1 , or bad coil in bank1, or dirty injector in bank1, etc. etc.

    Also please confirm that Bank1 is closest to the firewall, Sensor1 is the "upstream sensor" (accessed from on top in the engine compartment), and that a Denso 234-5010 would be the correct OEM replacement.

    Bottom line - would you "plug and pray" or would you have a pro troubleshoot?

    Thanks,
    Bill
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