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I still have original hoses on my 1990 Integra - they look and feel fine.
I can get the cover loosened,but can't swing the thing out of the way to get to the filter.
Any help here would be appreciated .
Wondering if something else could be triggering it that is making the o2 sensor readings off. For example I still have my original spark plugs - incomplete combustion might throw off the readings.
Actually had the plugs in my cart to order before the light went, but don't want to put them in if the 02 is really bad and might foul them. On the other hand don't want to spend $180 on a new o2 sensor if I don't need to.
Will probably just pull a plug and look at it. If the color is right then combustion is fine and I will be comfortable replacing the plugs.
Would be curious if anybody else went through this.
Thanks for the head up though.
6 years ago, at 59K miles, I had a Code P0141 come up and my mechanic replaced the rear oxygen sensor which fixed the problem. It cost $166 at the time. No problems with that code since.
In March 2008 at 92K miles I had another code come up, this time P0420. I kept clearing it but eventually wound up replacing the catalytic converter at 111K miles in order to get it to pass state inspection. That worked briefly but the light eventually came back on. Turns out there was a Service bulletin (03-063) requiring a ECM/PCM software update with AAA040 program for ECM/PCM incorectly interpreting sensor inputs resulting in that specific DTC. That cost $93 to perform but had to be done at the dealer. Wish I had known that before spending a grand on the cat. Anyway, no trouble with that code since.
I'm about to hit 140K miles and car is still running like new. Hope this helps.
Did not think to check service bulletins though good idea.
120k miles right now so plugs are due anyway. Have to special order the ngk. Anybody know if the bosch are any good. I can get those locally.
Good luck!
This sailor's J30a4 had these plugs from day one off the showroom floor. No complaints this far, no drop in mpg at 109,000 miles. I plan on a 120,000 mile R&R. The idea of install and forget for six or so years appeals...................
ez
Still have check engine light. Looks like o2 sensor is next I will do the upstream one first. $70 for a denso at autozone with a coupon.
At least it was not a waste doing the spark plugs, they were not too expensive and they were due according to the book. They looked amazingly good for that mileage - just a very light tan color and some minor rounding at the edges. I have seen 15,000 mile plugs that looked much worse. They could probably have gone another 50k. So looks like combustion is fine.
other than that and the normal filters, should be good to go.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Thanks.
I have a 2005 Accord LX 4 cylinder automatic with 29,000 miles. The car is well-maintained.
I put new tires on it in spring of this year.
In early summer, I was passing a car on the freeway and accelerated to about 70 MPH. Just when I hit 70, the car started violently shaking and shuddering like someone loosened all my lug nuts and the wheels were wobbling. I had to pull it off to the side of the road and stop. I checked the car and couldn't find anything wrong. I started up again and everything was fine and drove home smoothly.
The next morning, I had the car at the tire shop checking all the tires. They rebalanced all the tires but said none of them were really out of balance to start with.
That was about 4 months ago.
The car has run excellent and smoothly since until yesterday morning. I was in a similar scenario...I was accelerting on an on-ramp on the freeway. When I approached 70 MPH, the car started violently shaking again. I was in heavy traffic and couldn't stop, but pulled off the freeway at the next exit and stopped at a traffic light. The shaking stopped and hasn't started again.
Over the summer, I had everything on the car checked, all the suspension components and wheels look like new. The car only has 29,000 miles and hasn't been abused. This shaking only happened twice, but I'm afraid something is seriously wrong and may cause an accident. I had it on the freeway just last Saturday and I was cruising at 75 MPH perfectly smoothly without a problem.
Anybody have any experience with this or have any suggestions what's happening or going wrong??
You probably missed the accessory belt.
Just a weird coincidence, about 2 weeks ago, I had the heat shield on the catalytic converter repaired. I had this pristeen like-new stainless steel exhaust and this cheap heat shield that rusted and rotted off like a cheap 5 cent tin can. They wanted to take it off but said not to park on grass. Well my grandson's ball games has a grass parking lot. I don't want the car to go KA-BOOM, so I had the heat shield fixed.
That's when I had all the suspension checked. Everything was fine.
But the shaking happend 4 months ago and didn't happen again until a few days ago.
How could this create a shaking feeling that the wheels are all loose?
Pretty easy to get the sensor out, but it took several hours to remove the plastic clip. Wound up having to cut it apart - what a pain.
Debating on the idle learn procedure after doing this. Thought I saw it recommended in the shop manual somewhere.
Long trip this week - will see if mpg is up with the new sensor, spark plugs and air filter (it had been down just a tad lately)
http://hondalac.com/service/Bulletins/x03-906e.pdf
Thanks
He changed the front pads and turned the rotors. He pulled the rear drums and showed me everything back there was loose and out of adjustment--even though the drums still had the original seals on them. How they got out of adjustment--I don't know?? Everything was original. The shoes were like new. He turned the drums, cleaned everything and adjusted the rear shoes.
So far, the car has been running very smoothly. The brakes are solid and quiet. I've had it on the freeway a couple of times but wasn't really able to open it up this week because of some road construction and lane closures with some heavy police enforcement. It's not worth the hassle.
But so far...so good!!
Honda had some extensive transmission problems, especially with the V6/5AT combo, in the early 2000s. The 2003-2004 Accords were part of a major recall and class action settlement. But complaints on 2005 models are also much higher than average on various consumer websites and with the NHTSA. So it appears that the transmission problems continued into the 2005 model year??? To be safe, I'd call around to a few shops that specialize in Hondas (and maybe even a transmission repair shop) and ask for any input they have on the 2005 Accord's reliability. It could save you a lot of trouble down the road...
Good luck!
I am still driving on my original OEM tires, but switch them every winter with my dunlop snow tires, which I ordered from tire rack as well. I have over 52,000 miles and the originals have about 50% of original depth and the snows have about 75%. I think the original bridgestones have very good high speed control and dry cornering, but tend to be very poor on road noise or any wet or slick surfaces. I personally would not get them again and would opt for a better compromise on wet weather handling and noise. If you can't check out tire rack, another place you usually can't go wrong is the local Sam's club, BJ's or Cosco. They tend to have middle of the road to good quality tires at fairly good prices, provide tire repair, balancing and rotation for free! Hope this helps.
On the tires, I have stuck with Michelin Primacy MXV4's; smooth rolling, quiet, and durable (at least 90,000 miles, even though they're rated for 60k). We rotate them every 5,000 miles; and check for alignment every 15,000; align if necessary, but certainly align no more than every 30,00 miles.
FWIW: new tread depth is 11/32; at 42,000 on my three year old Primacys, there's 8/32 remaining.............. Now that is impressive to this sailor.
ez..
In regards, to the high-performance rotors; slotted & cross-drilled--great slow speed driving characteristics, during rush hour driving. Where you "feel" the slotting effect, is when they grab at high speed 50 to 75 mph, on highways or the freeway; but no warping, or steering wheel "shudder". I'm getting ready to try the "carbon metallic" pads (the kind that are used on race cars--becuz they run cooler & brake well) today, 12-4-11. We'll see, how they perform!
Also, if U have rear discs, as well, it would behoove U, not to apply your parking brake; as this will apply heat from the brake pad, clamping, on the rotor; and warp your rotors!! Also, every time U "turn" your rotors, you shave metal, which thins your rotors, and increases the liklihood, of warping! Hope this helps?!
I have an '04 Accord V6 with 76,000 miles. Has been running fine, although gradually over the last few years the gas mileage has gotten worse. Now down to around 20mpg around town and maybe 26 freeway.
The Check Engine Light lit up. ODB code p2243 Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) VCENT Line High Voltage It went out by itself. Now it is back.
I'm trying to decide whether to just change the sensor, or pay to have a pro troubleshoot it. Seems like it could be a bad sensor, or it could be any of a number of things, such as fouled plug in bank1 , or bad coil in bank1, or dirty injector in bank1, etc. etc.
Also please confirm that Bank1 is closest to the firewall, Sensor1 is the "upstream sensor" (accessed from on top in the engine compartment), and that a Denso 234-5010 would be the correct OEM replacement.
Bottom line - would you "plug and pray" or would you have a pro troubleshoot?
Thanks,
Bill