Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

1…111112113115117

Comments

  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,550
    can't answer your detailed questions (need a shop manual for that, or your friend google), but as to plug and play? That goes back to how expensive the part is, and how easy it is to change. And how reluctant you are to do any other work.

    an '04? Certainly could be time to replace the plugs. Why not pull one and see how it looks? If you aren't comfortable doing that, then I would say take it to a pro, and have them do a full diagnostic before you dive into replacing parts.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • sockpuppet1969sockpuppet1969 Member Posts: 308
    edited January 2012
    It is preposterous to state that using your parking brakes warps your rotors. I have rear discs, have used my parking brake every time I have parked the car for over 140,000 miles and am still on my original unwarped rotors.
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    I have observed a problem with my 04 LX V6 Accord Coupe. During the first couple of stops, starting from a cold start, the brakes do not seem to "grab" as well as they do after the car has been driven for a while. I have replaced the front & rear rotors and the bake pads, bled the brake fluid and still the problem persists. The car just turned 80K on the odometer. When the car was new I had to learn to "be gentle" while braking because the brakes were very sensitive to what I felt was normal brake pedal pressure. After replacing the read pads, at around 15K, because they had worn down to minimal thickness, the sensitivity of the brake pedal seemed to become "normal".

    Anyone else have similar issues??
  • tom017tom017 Member Posts: 16
    I have a 2005 Accord LX 4 cylinder with the 5-speed automatic. It only has 30,000 miles on it.
    I had the recall done in fall regarding the transmission programming.
    Now I'm noticing every time the temperature is below freezing, the first shift from 1st to 2nd gear is very sluggish. It's not a slip, but it's an uncomfortable sluggishness. This car NEVER EVER missed a shift since I bought it new. The dealer said the recall shouldn't have anything to do with the shifting but suggested replacing the transmission fluid. I had the fluid drained and replaced. The new fluid reduced the sluggishness, but still the first shift from 1st gear to 2nd is sluggish. When the car is warmed up, it runs perfectly fine and shifts even smoother with the new fluid. Has anybody heard of this sluggish shift between 1st and 2nd before? I hope the transmission isn't going at 30,000 miles---C'mon this is a HONDA, it shouldn't be doing that!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Could be normal for below freezing temperatures. You might consider using synthetic transmission oil.

    MOBIL 1 SYNTHETIC

    REDLINE is another company that makes this type of oil.
  • temj12temj12 Member Posts: 450
    This is a normal thing for a lot of transmissions when the weather is below freezing. The transmission has to warm up and the fluid has to heat up. The fluid is thick when it is that cold. You don't have a problem.
  • michael2595michael2595 Member Posts: 72
    42,000 miles on car.. seems like when it idles it is noisier/rougher than it used to be.. RPM at 7 to 800. Is this normal? Been like this for at least 15,000 miles.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 Member Posts: 858
    edited February 2012
    ........for the J30 series V-6 using OEM factory Iridium plugs.............

    Given:

    1. The NGK plugs special thread plating obviates anti-sieze goo

    2. The COP ignition system/fine wire plug design permits extended life

    3. Folks (by either design or cluelessness) are reporting impressive longevity. I have seen on various Honda websites 129,000 to 186,000 on the factory Iridium spark plugs. What is more interesting is that some of these unreal numbers are achieved without MPG drop, throwing codes, hard starting, poor idle, degraded acceleration, missing et al.......

    Comments? (I'm at 114,000 and plan install new NGK Iridium #6994 circa 120,000 this summer)
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    I replaced mine at 120k and the old ones looked fine still.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 Member Posts: 858
    ..Senor Dudley, you always make my day! Thanks. Were those plugs difficult to get free of the aluminum head at 120,000? all the best, ez....
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    They came free pretty easily.
  • slacker10000slacker10000 Member Posts: 13
    Okay - -I have seen this post before. When driving on highway, the steering wheel will shake at speeds of 70MPH. It does this randomly - when it feels like it. Would appreciate if anyone has ideas as to what this is, and how to fix.

    Thanks
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,550
    check the wheel balance 1st

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • tom017tom017 Member Posts: 16
    It was above freezing today and it struggled to make it from first to second gear. After that, it was fine.

    It has new transmission fluid in it.

    This transmission was the smoothest shifting I've ever driven. It never missed a shift even in sub-zero temperatures.

    I had the recall done in the fall which updated the software. Now it doesn't shift right out of first gear. I'm not happy. :mad:
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    edited February 2012
    Hondas are picky when it comes with transmission fluid. Do you know that the fresh fluid is genuine Honda transmission fluid?

    Mrbill
  • ezshift5ezshift5 Member Posts: 858
    ........unsure which transmission/recall you are addressing...........

    If you mean the Honda 6-speed manual (has a clutch, right?), you might consider the GM/Delco Friction Modified SynchroMesh goo.

    My 6M transmission has 47,000 miles on this fluid. No 3rd gear hesitation/popout. Not one. No TSB (worried about tech ineptitude)......

    The stuff really works.

    ez
  • tom017tom017 Member Posts: 16
    I had it replaced at the Honda dealer. They used the new Honda fluid.
  • tom017tom017 Member Posts: 16
    It was the recall where the software was updated on the 5 speed transmissions for 2005 Accords.

    It had to do with rocking the car, which I don't do.

    Now the shift points are really relaxed....in fact, too relaxed when it's cold.
  • eddiemo18eddiemo18 Member Posts: 2
  • eddiemo18eddiemo18 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Honda Accord sedan and my trunk light doesn't turn on when the trunk is open. I checked the bulb and related fuses but it won't come on. By accident I left the trunk open while backing out of my driveway and the red light that appears on the dash board when a door is open didn't turn on. I wonder if the switch or connection is faulty? Anyone have this issue and if so what did you do to remedy it? Thanks.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    I checked my 04 Accord and here is what I found. On the right side of the latch mechanism under the lid, you'll see a connector plugged into the mechanism, the wires trail off and into the lid. I unplugged the white connector and the light went off, plugging back in and the light's back on. You might want to check the connector to see it's properly connected. I would also guess that shorting the 2 wires in the plug will bypass the latch and light up the lamp.

    Mrbill
  • teaser47401teaser47401 Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2012
    I have got the exact same problem (power windows not working, key fop not locking/unlocking, drivers side power locks not working) on my 03 Accord. Did you ever find a resolution to the issue?
  • upnorth3087upnorth3087 Member Posts: 1
    just replying to a post from Honda about the radio going dark......... does that apply to Canada? I have a 2004 accord with 92000 km. Would greatly appreciate your help. I know the posting is old from 2007 but this could be great news. Thanks
  • woogie03woogie03 Member Posts: 4
    I ended up sending it to Southern Electronics in Richmond, Va. They have instructions on their site on how take remove the radio from yor Accord (very easy, just be gentle). Cost me $200 which is a lot better than the dealer. Quick turn around too. Good experience dealing with them. Www.carradio.com
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I have no idea if the radio display warranty extension applies to Canada. Sorry.
  • Honda30Honda30 Member Posts: 16
    I just received a coupon from my Honda dealer for a cabin air filter replacement for only $59.95.

    I hope everyone here knows that you can purchase a filter for 12 to 15 dollars (you do not need a Honda brand filter) and install it in all of 5 minutes. You may get a little bit of dust on your hands.

    A reasonable charge of 25 to 30 dollar for replacement by the Honda dealer would be much better for customer relations.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you have lower overhead than a dealer is the reason. He has to make X per hour on his line mechanics, no matter what they do. The labor rate is .4 of an hour + $21 for the part. So at the usual dealer rates these days of around $100/hr, the price makes sense.

    Think of it as going to a restaurant for breakfast as opposed to you cooking it yourself.

    Actually, changing that filter is probably easier than making breakfast. :P
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I see people all the time, complaining about how much dealerships charge, to do this or that. IMO, if you are too lazy or unskilled to do it yourself, you have no right to complain about how much someone else is charging to do it for you. It's like the guy I saw in a store the other day buying a lottery ticket, and complaining that it was a ripoff? He didn't have to buy one.
  • fixitdaddy1fixitdaddy1 Member Posts: 14
    While the info stated in #5807 is true (w/regards to Southern Electronics...); what U can also do, as I found-out recently, is buy the PC board from the Honda dealer. I paid a total of $200 plus tax, of which $125 is for core charge; returnable when U bring back the defective pc (printed circuit)board.
    The instructions for installing can be gotten from the dealer or the internet...on google.
  • jcraterjcrater Member Posts: 1
    I changed the air filter in my daughter's 2007 Accord today. It was a bit difficult to remove the filter cover, but was even tougher to put it back. I finally removed the battery clamp and was then able to easily install the cover.

    hth
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Yes, those filters can be a challenge. Good job. The next time will be easier. :)
  • jefflaw977jefflaw977 Member Posts: 2
    edited August 2012
    I need some opinions on what to do.. My 2003 Honda Accord's transmission has died. I went to the local honda dealership in an attempt to find out what it would cost to fix and as I expected, the repairs are going to add up.. I did some research on 2003 transmission and I've come to the conclusion that the Honda Accord 2003 transmission is riddled w/ problems..

    In any event, here is what I was quoted by my local Honda Dealership..

    Remanufactured Transmission: $4200 - However they'll do it for $2750 (based on my mileage)

    Since I am at 96k, if i decide to keep the car and fix the transmission, I figured i'd put in a new timing belt, drive belts, water pump and coolant.. This I was quoted for $750

    Then, 2 other codes came up that need to be addressed..

    1) Idle Air Control - Quoted $618.00
    2) ABS tranction Control - Quoted $1179.00

    So without tax, and nor any haggling over price- I am at $5300.00 for a 9 year old car...

    The last 2 items, (idle air control, and ABS) i am not sure need to need to be fixed as they said something about "clearing out the code"

    In any event, the bottom line is that I'd like someone's suggestion as to what to do? Do i keep this car? I really wanted to drive for the foreseeable future.

    I did take it to another mechanic who can do this stuff for some what less.. But again, I am torn..

    Any suggestions?
  • jefflaw977jefflaw977 Member Posts: 2
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    put in a used transmission - much cheaper. Some even come with warranties.

    You might also find a shop that can repair it. What is it doing? Does the car drive at all?

    I am guessing this is an automatic. The manual was/is bullet proof, and would not be so expensive to repair.

    Would you pay $5k for a used one in the same same condition as yours. If the answer is yes you may as well fix it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd probably fix it. I don't think it's going to cost as much as all that to square the car away, especially if you shop around. The ABS business could be nothing more than a defective wheel sensor.
  • sockpuppet1969sockpuppet1969 Member Posts: 308
    edited September 2012
    4 cylinder EX-L MT with almost 150K miles on the original clutch. How long have others gone before having to put in a new one? Has anyone done it themselves? How hard is it? Any special tools needed?

    Thanks in advance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It'd be a tough job without a lift and a transaxle jack. Book says a professional mechanic can do it in 6 hours.

    Special Tools Required
    Clutch alignment shaft 07LAF-PT00110
    Clutch alignment disc 07JAF-PM7011A
    Remover handle 07936-3710100
    Ring gear holder 07LAB-PV00100 or 07924-PD20003
  • butterflyjonesbutterflyjones Member Posts: 72
    How do you get the paint to shine where fuel spilled on it. I can't seem to get the tank filled without it spilling occasionally. Where the fuel spilled the paint looks dull. Any suggestions??? I washed it with car wash, dried it off and tried some ICE synthetic wax but it still looks very dull. :sick: :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    that's the clear coat, so I hesitate to recommend wet-sanding. Probably a good buffer would do it, if you take your time and don't bear down on it. Once you cut through the clear coat, that's it---no remedy for that but a repaint.
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    Just curious if any owners of 03-07 generation Accord V6's has had a leak in the PS hoses per the up and coming recall. I received an email from my dealer informing me of the upcoming recall. I checked out the PS hose in question and so far, so good.
  • ktnrktnr Member Posts: 255
    edited October 2012
    2005 LX-V6 at 112K and my P/S hoses are dirty, greasy and swollen in places. No significant leaking but the poor condition of the hoses makes them appear to be needing replacement.

    I just got my car back from my dealer today (completely screwed-up A/C repair that I have a new case with Honda about) and they noted the leaky hoses but recommended new Power Steering Pump seals for $480! No mention of the recall from them of course and what do leaky hoses have to do with new seals?
  • ktnrktnr Member Posts: 255
    Turns out my Power Steering symtoms (noise when cold) is fully described in Honda Service Bulletin 07-086 which notes that a single poorly designed O-ring is at fault. Repair involves installing new, thicker O-ring at 0.3 hours labor. I can do this simple repair myself in ten minutes for under $2 for the O-ring.

    I'm outraged that the Honda dealter wanted to charge me $480! Hugely dishonest. I'll report back on what Honda NA says about the shoddy repair work and attempts to make fraudulent charges.

    If you're in downtown Atlanta, watch your dealer service VERY closely or they'll attempt to rob you blind.
  • ktnrktnr Member Posts: 255
    Honda got back to me. I had faxed them Denso’s warranty on their compressors (requires system purging and dryer replacement or the warranty is immediately void) along with industry articles describing the importance of thoroughly cleaning A/C systems to avoid contaminating a new compressor. I faxed them a copy of the Honda Service Bulletin showing the easy and very inexpensive alternative to the dealer’s suggested $480 power steering pump rebuild to cure a minor noise issue. I explained how the Service Advisor switched from protesting AGAINST additional work that would be wise (but would have required him to come in on his day off OR split his commission with someone else) to pushing unnecessary and over-priced work the next day (once he was resigned to protecting his commission by coming in on his day off, the Service Advisor wanted to make it damned worth his while). I explained how the dealer tried to charge me 8.976111 shop hours (a plugged number they made up) before they backed off their “mistake” and cut the labor charge by 40%.

    Bottom line: Honda said repairing a contaminated A/C system just by replacing one part at a time was “proper”. The attempted over-charges and commission wrangling are solely between me and the dealership. Honda suggested I contact the dealership Service Manager again to see if he can explain what they had previously refused to explain. In a word, Honda offered me NOTHING.

    If you’re looking for Honda dealer service in downtown Atlanta, you’d be wise to go far North (Woodstock, Georgia) or far South (Morrow, Georgia) instead. Even then, ask in advance to insure that your Service Advisor will be working the next day too in case your car needs to stay overnight. If anyone quotes you a price over the phone, get their full name to avoid hassles over service prices and commissions. Better yet, find a small, local shop who works off their reputation and repeat customers.
  • michael2595michael2595 Member Posts: 72
    By golly ... 59.95 is a downright steal for a 15 dollar filter and 3 minutes work. My Honda dealer wants 99.95.. Those service writers are salesman on a commission.
  • ktnrktnr Member Posts: 255
    I used to think that owners were Honda's customers and dealers were just a necessary evil. I'm thinking now that it's the other way around. Auto dealers and their lobbyists are where the money and the power is. The people who drive the products are just an unpleasant annoyance for the manufacturer; always complaining about things that blow up or catch fire or fail to work safely.
  • mr_gonemr_gone Member Posts: 50
    I have had nothing but good experiences with my Honda dealers in the Twin Cities.
  • ktnrktnr Member Posts: 255
    edited October 2012
    Before the economic crisis in 2008, it seemed to me that Honda was holding the feet of it's franchised dealers to the fire. Honda wanted to ensure that every customer was treated well by dealers they kept on a short leash. It's a different world today where not only Honda but even Acura is challenged by the Korean competition. Honda seems to have backed off their pro-consumer stance and is now willing to allow it's dealers far more latitude in finding ways to lighten the customer's pockets. A "Honda" sign on the building no longer means that you can reasonably trust the people working there. If your Honda dealership's service department happens to be honest, then I'm happy for you. It's not that way though because Honda insists.

    Then again, what about all the premature transmission and A/C compressor failures in the last decade? Honda behaved in a very stubborn and cost-conscious way in handling the design and manufacturing mistakes that cost Honda drivers a LOT of money. I had my doubts then but now my bubble is fully burst - Honda isn't any better than any other large auto-manufacturer. Shame that.
  • michael2595michael2595 Member Posts: 72
    WHy should Honda dealers be any different than others? The service department is the profit center. Your service writer is basically a salesman. I waited for my warranty to run out and then took my car to a neighborhood repair shop. No issues here. When you put a company or a person on a pedestal they are bound to fall off. Now everyone loves Hundai. How much of the Sonata is made by Honda? Its all global. Buyer beware. Second car is a 96 Subaru. Never had one problem. Never will. My 2007 Honda had brake issues. Took it to dealership after rotors went at 5,000 miles and brakes at 10. They jerked me around telling me I didnt know how to drive and said Honda would not pay. I am 58. Took my car to my repair shop , Had them yank out the whole brake system and put in a new one at a cost of 1,000. I dont have time for dealerships and their games. Will never buy a new car again.
  • voicemailkingvoicemailking Member Posts: 83
    Have dual A/C. The drivers side blows hot while the passenger side is fine. The car has 136,000 miles so i do not want to put big money in it. What could be the problem and any idea of cost to repair...Thanks in advance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like a stuck blend door (diverter door) or broken actuator that works said door. Might not be a big fix IF...IF...you can get at it without tearing the car apart.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles