Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

savegas · November 2012

I have 07 I4 SE Auto and about a month ago, 'Check Fuel Cap' message appears while i was driving.
Pull over the car, stop engine and to recap, and message is gone right away.

Ever since then, with same driving condition and the fuel consumption becomes worse: about 4 miles less per gallon.

Car is out of the warranty, anyone experience such problem?

I know the rule about fuel cap: click at least 3 times (i done 4) after refuel.

Thank you,

sockpuppet1969 · November 2012

Mr. Shiftright is correct. My 2003 Accord EXL 4cyl does the same thing from time to time. Here is how I fix it:

1. Turn the climate control to AUTO (make sure DUAL is off).
2. Turn the temperature all the way down then all the way up and then set to your desired temp.

So far this has worked every time the door has stuck for me (usually in the middle of the summer!). My car has almost 150K miles and I have no plans to get rid of it anytime soon. If this problem became permanent and was cost prohibitive to repair, my eyes might start wandering though...

elroy5 · November 2012

It seems that because you bought a Honda, you don't expect anything to ever go wrong with it. And if anything does, you expect the dealership to fix it free of charge. Honda, just like other car companies, is in business to make money. I bought my first Accord (92) back in 91. The few times I did have a problem the local dealership was terrible, at even finding the cause, much less fixing it in a timely manner. The lazyness of the mechanics at the dealership convinced me to buy a Honda factory service manual, and do all the maintenance and repairs myself, if possible. I spent about $1200 on repairs during the 12 years and 140k miles I had the car ($500 of that at the dealership). Not bad IMO. So, when I decided to buy a new car, it was going to be another Accord. I bought the 2003 Accord (V6) over 10 years ago, and have yet to spend $1000 on repairs at this point ($600 of that at the dealership). My point is, the service at the dealership hasn't been any worse than it was 20 years ago, and the car hasn't been any less reliable. The 03 Accord has been just as good, or better, than the 92 was. I've learned a lot about how these cars work, and I'm saving myself a lot of moola. The Honda (helm) service manuals are easy to understand, and very detailed, unlike the Toyota service manual I bought for my truck, which I guess you had to be an ASE certified tech to understand. So I haven't blamed the car, for the incompetence at the dealership. The cars are great, if you can avoid the dealerships.

tomfromwv · December 2012

Did you ever get a solution to your console light problem ? I recently repaired the Radio/HVAC display issue (resistor in the radio) and everything was fine for about a week. One day all the console buttons, as you described, no longer light up with the dash lights. Also, the Radio/HVAC lcd display no longer dims when the headlights are on.

buyahome · December 2012

I had the lights on the radio and the climate control go out one night. No hint to a problem, just OUT one night. I watched a YouTube video on a fuse on the circuit board of the radio being the issue. I followed the video precisely and easily made the fix. It took me ten minutes to remove the radio and a very slim soldering iron to repair it. I snipped the fuse with a pair of needle nose pliers and then soldered a bridge over the two contacts with just a piece of solder. The hardest part was getting to the actual contact to solder it. It has been a couple of months and to date is working perfectly. My local (in town) Honda dealer acknowledged the "common problem" but said they would not cover it because of the age of the car (2003) even with the low mileage (40,000 miles). If you are handy it will help. Just search YouTube to find the repair video and give it a shot. There were no parts needed, just a little patience and about half an hour removing and replacing the radio. Good luck.

wise1 · December 2012

It finally died, 1.5 months short of 6 years. I read previous posts about using a battery for the v-6 in 4-cyl models accords. My question is, has anyone bought a battery for their 4-cyc accord using the 35 series in the past 6-8 months and what CCA and CA does it have and does it crank immediately or is it taking a lot of time to crank? This is about a 2007, SE 41--- miles. I called Honda in my area and the v-6 battery they offer for about $90.00 has only 460 cca which is way too little for my liking!! We have in my area Advanced Auto, Autozone, and O'Rilley's. And of course wal-Mart. Any suggestions????

wise1 · December 2012

I replaced my battery today and now need to know the procedure for entering the radio code. I have the code that was written in my owners manual at the dealership the day I bought it. I tried cranking it up turning on the radio which said CODE and tried to put in the 5 numbers but it would just spell the word CODE and ERR1. It would not register any numbers. Any one know the correct procedure??? The owners manual doesn't say anything about the procedure. :confuse: :confuse: The glove box does NOT have any numbers printed in it.

Mr_Shiftright · December 2012

Try this

Disconnect battery cable for 2 minutes. (because you have tried too many times to enter the code)

Turn key to "accessories"
Press radio power to on
CODE appears

Then wait for a BEEP

Then enter your code with the presets

finzz · December 2012

Had the exact same problem with our '06 accord and brought it to a shop to diagnose Was advised that it was simply low freon. They charged the system and we haven't had a problem since. Easy fix: buy a can at Walmart and give it a shot - you might get lucky.

Good luck

lebloom · December 2012

On my 2005 Honda Accord all of the LEDs on the door panels and the steering wheel are going dim. The steering wheel itself is the worse and are nearly gone out. Been looking on youtube for answers but no help there so far.

wise1 · December 2012

Thanks. It didn't work when the neg. cable was removed for 12 seconds, but it did work when the neg. cable was removed for 12 minutes!! THANK YOU.

Mr_Shiftright · December 2012

Well I think I said 2 minutes, so I was only wrong by ten minutes---and what's 10 minutes in a lifetime? :P (unless of course it's your last 10 minutes).

Good work! Glad to hear this has been squared away!

Kirstie_H · December 2012

Never know, Shifty. We're pretty close to the 21st, end of the world and all, and you're suggesting using valuable final moments on WAITING.

kyhondaowner · February 2013

I had to have my hose replaced in June after noticing smoke coming from the engine. I am told by the company that I will be reimbursed for my costs( remains to be seen) but not provided a new "heat resistant" hose because the repair was not completed by the dealership/ is an "aftermarket" part. My question is this; is my aftermarket part likely to be suitable or Heat resistant? I have been told that the original hose was probably a lesser quality hose and that the aftermarket hose is better quality, which is what they are scrambling to "manufacture" for replacements. Any parts people out there?

mrbill1957 · February 2013

Too much heat is going to destroy any standard material hose if it gets too hot. I would guess they are installing a hose with a higher temperature rating, or even an insulated one.

What about insulating the hose you installed? As an example:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DES0/010408/N1808.oap?ck=Search_N1808_-- 1_3276&pt=N1808&ppt=C0379

Mrbill

elroy5 · February 2013

When I replaced my hose, I looked at all the aftermarket hoses, and none of them looked like higher quality than OEM.

pinedo76 · February 2013

I have have a 2005 Homda accord. About a year ago the stereo stopped working. I've already called Honda to have it fixed, they won't unless I fork out $800, not gonna do that.

The radio turns on, the display lights up like it should, I can switch stations and turn the volume up and down. I can insert CD's and eject them normally. The only thing I'm getting no sound from the radio, after about 10seconds I get like a static/ white noise sound through the speakers which I cannot turn up or down with the volume control.

Just looking for answers if anyone has had the same issue or may know if its fixable, what ill need to do to fix it.

Thanks!

buyahome · February 2013

Have you tried looking under the radio to be certain the wiring harness is securely plugged in? I'd suggest unplugging and waiting a minute or two and reconnecting the power and the speakers. Be certain to have your radio codes available including Navigation code if applicable.

You may need a mirror to see the bottom of the radio. There are plenty of video on YouTube showing how easily the radio can be taken out or inspected for loose wires. Good luck.

Honda30 · April 2013

Received a coupon from my local Honda dealer offering to replace my Accord cabin air filter for only $69.95. Last year it was $59.95. Inflation I guess!

For those of you who would rather save your hard earned money, this is a simple 5 min. (yes, even if you haven't done it before) do it yourself job that can be done for less than $20.00. That's a savings of at least $50.00.

If anyones interested I will post the how to.

wise1 · April 2013

My 2007 I-4 SE is at 20% and soon is due for a oil change. Its been a year now and about 6500 miles. From the first oil change to now I've always used Mobil 1 synthetic, should I go ahead and change when the wrench appears or would waiting till the oil had 8000 or so miles be o.k.?? I've been putting a drop on a white paper towel and it still looks clean. Amber in color not dark at all. Oil prices are continuing to go up and I don't want to needlessly be wasting good oil!! :shades: :shades:

Mr_Shiftright · April 2013

My two cents is that unless you perform an oil analysis, I wouldn't push past 7500 miles on an oil change.

wise1 · April 2013

Well it turns out it has 5719 miles on it and it still looks clear and amber in color. Where can I get an oil analysis done and how much does it cost?? How reliable would the results be?? :shades: :shades:

Mr_Shiftright · April 2013

Yeah, oil analysis is pretty good. The color of your oil is not a guarantee of its present chemical status.

Here's one well-known company, along with their pitch:

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/what-is-oil-analysis.php

Their FAQ tab is actually rather amusing.

jmaxe · April 2013

Seems way too soon to change synthetic oil.

imidazol97 · April 2013

Like Mr Shiftright says, Blackstone is one. I have used them and they are good. Call and ask for a container free that they send you to use for shipping the oil. Takes 4-7 days by USPS to get to you. Pack it as they say on website and ship the container buying the stamp (sticker) for it by weight at the post office. The label is on the box already. If you go to PO desk, there is a paper on website to show if the clerk questions oil as being flammable--it's not. $2 to ship. $25 for analysis. I would add on the $10 for additive analysis to see how much is left at your mileage when you send the sample.

Blackstone called me on first one. I don't know if that's typical--mine had a surprise in the analysis showing a slight Na and K increase (sodium and potassium) indicating coolant traces in oil. Turned out to be a seep at the throttle body gasket on 3800--almost a service item.

They show a sample analysis result page you get by mail on first one and by email on successive tests. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php

They do write helpful comments about the analysis just as they did in the sample. Your old test results are kept on their website IIRC under your email. So if you lose the email you can retrieve them later.

I agree with other post that you might run up mileage more and then change oil, catch sample in middle of drain stream, and it will be worth the $25-35 just to know.

ezshift5 · April 2013

...that this 2005 Honda Accord 6M V-6 coupe has been in my garage..........................

I have been very impressed with the longevity of components......

At circa 130,000 miles, the factory original elements noted below are still in place............

1. Brake compoments

2. Clutch

3. The Iridiums

I was at a local bar (eating lunch) and a north valley auto repair shop owner said (I wrote it down on a cocktail napkin (comes with lunch). "Those Iridiums will go 200,000 miles. Who knew? (My OM indicates 105,000 for replacement.)

I sort of feel guilty (this month I plan to replace my 1982 VW diesel pickup - - - with 'nuther VW oil burner at that)

all the best, ez

Mr_Shiftright · April 2013

Might be worth $25 the first time just to see what 7,500 synthetic oil looks like and how far it has to expiration. That way, you'll know in the future how far to push it.

While I am no fan of wasting money, pushing a synthetic past 7500 seems to me an awfully risky way of saving $75 bucks.

dudleyr · April 2013

What oil burner are you getting EZ? They don't make a pickup anymore - wish they did.
Toureg? Passat? Jetta? Golf? I came pretty close to a Passat diesel recently, but wound up with another Accord (Stick of course). Hard to beat the reliability and durability. I changed the irridiums at 120k and they still looked fine (already had the new ones so I went ahead with it), Still have front brakes original at 161k, same for clutch. I did have to replace rear brakes because I dented the e-brake cable and it rusted shut, keeping the left rear engaged for a while before I got it fixed.

Only repair in 161k was a new O2 sensor at about 110k. $90 and 15 minutes of my time. Use Mobil one 0w-20 and Pur1 synthetic filters about every 9k.

ezshift5 · April 2013

VW JSW TDI 6M now alongside HAV-6 6M in my garage.

Love the wagon/dislike the heavy computer presence (plus attorney-written OM - NOT user friendly)

Accord continues with factory original plugs, pads, rotors and clutch at 132,000.

If the TDI can get anywhere close to this Honda from almost any measurement standpoint, I'm one happy (former) sailor.

all the best, ez

smpear1 · April 2013

Hi,
I recently replaced my battery and the radio code is not working, I get ERR 1, 2 etc until I hit all 10 allowed. I disconnected the neg battery terminal to give me another 10 tries but each time it gives me an error. I have used this code successfully every other time I have replaced the battery so I cannot figure out if I am missing a step or if maybe the radio lost its code somehow.

Bascially, the radio (non-NAV BTW), will spell C-O-D-E as I enter the 5 digit code. On the 5th digit, it beeps and displays ERR 1.

Any ideas would be appreciated, this is the same radio and code I have always used.

thanks!

dudleyr · April 2013

Very nice choice with the JSW ez. My mother bought one 2 years ago on my advice and loves it. She has the automatic (her first one), but I can't be too critical, she drove sticks until she was over 70.

Would have been my first choice, but my 3 sons did not have enough legroom in back. Too bad that chassis does not have the leg room of the new Jetta sedan.

No problems yet on my '13 Accord. 2,500 miles is kind of pathetic for me in over 3 months. My projects have changed a little so less travel. My oldest son is driving my '07 - still going strong at 161,000 miles and could probably double that.

savegas · May 2013

Diagnosed and performed software update at dealer last December and has much better fuel consumption until now.

Again, fuel consumption is back to about ~5 miles less per gallon under the same driving condition and with clean fluids (trans, oil, coolant), clean filters (air filter, cabin filter) and correct psi for tires.

Really don't know why and could be the vehicle on board computer problem ?

Any suggestion ?

Thank you,

dudleyr · May 2013

Did you get new tires recently?

savegas · May 2013

same tires since last year

nickjp57 · June 2013

Honda30, I was just looking for this. My dealer wants $90 to replace the cabin filter and $60 for the engine air filter! I have a 2009 Accord EX. Of course, I live in Brooklyn, NY so things are high but that seems ridiculous. I am no mechanic but I am handy so I am sure if you can give me a bit of advice I can do this - I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Nick P

tomfromwv · June 2013

You can get the cabin and engine air filters at Walmart for around $20. It's a five minute job to replace either. I've done it on my dad's 2008. The cabin filter sits behind the glove box door. Just release the stops on the door so it tilts down and the CAF will be revealed. For more info go to YouTube and search on accord cabin air filter. There should be multiple videos on how to change it. The engine air filter is about the same cost and about same difficulty. $90 and $60 seems like a pure money maker for the dealer.

carpenter22 · June 2013

There's more than one YouTube on this and it's as easy as opening your glove box.

The filters cost about $11 online and you can get them though Amazon. Very, very easy for either filter. Engine might need an extension for a ratchet wrench. I have a 2005 V6 Accord and shocked myself at how easy it was. My dealer wanted $100 to replace the cabin air filter in NJ.

buyahome · June 2013

Nick:
The cabin air filter can be found in most auto parts stores and takes maybe 3-5 minutes to replace. That's assuming your glove box is full.
The air filter for the engine is a little longer. To pay a dealer to do these simple items is way too much. Of course they have overhead and expenses, but it is way too easy. Go to YouTube and search for it. You will be amazed how easy it is.

tomjewell · July 2013

I have a 2003 Honda Accord 4 cyl/5 speed manual with 190,000 miles on it. Purchased 5 years ago with 110,000 miles on it and the oil has been changed every 4-5,000 miles. About 2 years ago I switched to Castrol High Mileage 5w20 oil (partially synthetic). Recently I've noticed the car is using oil, as much as 1+ qt between changes, and there is no evidence of leakage or any residue in the tailpipe. This car still gets 28 mpg around town and 31-33 on longer trips.

ahightower · July 2013

Most will probably say that 1 quart every 4-5K is perfectly acceptable given the high mileage. (Most manufacturers will probably say a quart every 1,000 miles is acceptable.)

ahightower · July 2013

Looking forward to this. I had to remove about seven things to change the cabin air filter in my last car, a Mazda3. Remove trim, remove glovebox, disconnect electronics, unscrew three things you can barely see...

tld · July 2013

Switching topics a little but do you know if the transmission was ever replaced or rebuilt in the last 190K miles? How often was the fluid changed on it? My 2005 has been flawless (99K).

fixitdaddy1 · August 2013

1st--forgive me for taking so long, in getting back to you. Yes, my transmission was replaced at 170k miles; this wasn't for lack of proper main- tenance. This was due, to my wife also using the transmission, as a brake, when backing-up! Apart from this, she now deliberately comes to a complete stop, B4 engaging any of the forward gears. I also drain & refill, the "tranny" every 15k miles, with only Honda ATF fluid from the dealer! Yes, it's worth the little extra paid; I consider it "cheap insurance". It also keep the trans-mission running cleaner, and shifting crisper; without incident. By the way, if U have been servicing your tansmission (every 15 to30K miles), keep-up the good work!! Hope this helps!!

fixitdaddy1 · August 2013

Interesting thing, tomjewell! I also used more oil ("blow-by") using Castrol Titanium full synthetic. So, I switched to Royal Purple 5-20wt full synthetic; I seem to be using less oil. Cost wise, I bought the Royal Purple off Amazon.com--free shipping! Seems to be the most cost effective. Later, I'm going to try Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic (purchased from WalMart at $25, for a 5qt container) plus either K & N, or NAPA Gold or Platinum oil filter, whichever is most cost effective. Hopefully, I'll acheive optimum gas mileage at minimal cost!

wise1 · September 2013

sorry this post is not in reply to your post. I'm looking for tires to replace the original michelins which are severely dry rotted and the tread is getting low. I've looked at tirebuyer and tirerack and it seems that all the tires they offer have many bad reviews even the michelins. It seems that the manufacturers are cheaping out on their tires!!!!! Either the tires treadwear is very short, the tires become very NOISEY within 5000 miles or so some have tread separation problems etc. I hate to think of laying down 500+ dollars for tires that just does not last or are unbearable LOUD!!!! What tires are you running and what kind of service are you getting??? This is for a 2007 SE I-4. Thanks.

chuck1 · September 2013

I ran these with great results on my Accord and they are on closeout with a great price-on tire rack
Size: 205/60R16
Sidewall Style: Blackwall
Serv. Desc: 92V
UTQG: 440 A A
Kumho KH 18

jonahdog · September 2013

I have a 2007 4dr accord EXL 5spd. It has Michelin primacy MXV4. I also have a 2007 4dr accord EXL w auto. It has Bridgestone Turanza serenity plus. All tires purchased at tire rack. Completely satisfied w both sets. Both cars have 15-20 k miles on their current tires (5spd has 60k, the auto has 70k) and show very little or no wear. The Michelin ride is more compliant/comfort oriented while the Bridgestone feels more performance oriented.

ezshift5 · September 2013

FWIW: My Gen7 Accord 6M coupe has Mich Primacy MXV4 215 50 series 17-inch H rated. At just under 70,000 miles, my tread depth is 6-7/32.

Here in NoCal, 2/32 is legal (but no less than 4/32 is recommended).

Sure agree pricey (but just look at TireRack's survey results!!

ez

gmanusmc · September 2013

Agree wholeheartedly with ezshift - you can't go wrong with the primacy mxv4's - they will last a long, long time. I've had several sets. Most tires will start to get noisy after some miles are put on them - even michelins. But if you want tires that will give you a lot of wear, it's the mxv4's (H rated).

Bill G

wise1 · September 2013

Thanks for the reply guys. The x green MXV4 is no longer made by michelin evidently the primacy is the replacement. I hate it that the tires show cracks so quickly and dry rot LLOONNGG before the tread has worn down. Why do the michelins do this??? My car is under the carport except when I'm driving it. I religiously keep the tires @ 37-38 psi and get better MPG's this way. I'm use to the bumpy ride hondas give. It has less than 50K miles.

Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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