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Ford Bronco Problems

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Comments

  • bigdogdaddybigdogdaddy Member Posts: 7
    It appera that the bolt had some thread lock installed last tim the the watrer pump was replaced. You are going to have to take it to a reputable shop and have them take it out. they have a master tapa nd die set that can extricate the bolt the correct way and install the water pump the correct way. With Bronco's always the correct way. the vehicles need out heart as we are akward individuals that know what great vehicles are about.
  • bigdogdaddybigdogdaddy Member Posts: 7
    I had a proroblem with my 89 Bronco and I just bought a module that is attached to the distributor and tried to start. No luck and found out that the module was bad. So I bought a module form Napa and it worked. Ford had a recall on the module, so it is up to us to solve the problem.
  • jeversolljeversoll Member Posts: 17
    Well, insted of getting a newer tail gate
    I elected to go to a shop that does rewireing!!!!

    $40.00 bucks and the problem was gone!!!

    I thought " Why get my B P up over something like this"

    Just take it to someone that knows what they are doing!!!! :)
  • millsman3millsman3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Eddie Bauer and love it. But My light came on and they replaced all of my sensors including my drive thing 4 total. but I am still having the same problem it will not start hot it chuggs and will hardly keep turning almost like dieseling. but runs perfect after it gets over that little fit. starts perfect when cold. they kept trying to replace this and that at $200.00 and $400.. none of what they said sounded like it would be the cure. any suggestions would be great!!!! Thank You, Cindy
  • jeversolljeversoll Member Posts: 17
    Everything you described sounds as if you have a carb prob or fuel injecto trouble. If you have fuel injection
    Have it Profesionally cleaned . If you have carburation.
    Have the carb rebuilt or ajusted. Check out the fuel sensors... They went out on my daughters Bronco
    and she replaced them herself...
  • schwallryanschwallryan Member Posts: 1
    when i put the truck in any gear and let off the clutch, it sits and idles just like its in neutral. is that the pressure plate and release bearing? or something with the t case?
  • cthullnercthullner Member Posts: 6
    Don't know what year your Bronco is? Every time the clutch in my 78 Bronco has gone....the clutch has gone. If the pressure is still there when you step on the clutch to switch gears, and the peddle hasn't slipped, it sounds like a problem with the T. case? Hope you get it figured out?
  • tclovertclover Member Posts: 4
    Sounds like your trans is overheating. Check your trans cooler.
  • amcjavvyamcjavvy Member Posts: 1
    1992 Ford Bronco with a Windsor 351
    Has new gas tank, fuel pump, fuel pump assembly, fuel filter, cap and rotor, heater core, spark plugs and wires, coolant temperature sensor, idle air control sensor, throttle position sensor, pressure regulator, ignition control module, radiator.
    Brake drums, shoes and tires were replaced in 2009.

    Anyway so sometimes i can go out and start this bad boy right up but then later i go out and it won't start but 10 minutes later it will. Whats wrong?
  • chrishaycoxchrishaycox Member Posts: 3
    Google this and you'll find what you are looking for.

    "81 ford bronco manual"

    Cheers.
  • redraider28redraider28 Member Posts: 9
    Did you also put a new ignition coil on the truck when you changed the rotor and cap? I put an MSD coil and Ford Racing 8.5mm plug wires on mine and it never fails to fire now.
  • shane41shane41 Member Posts: 1
    yes. i did that as well, im thinking about a o2 sensor ? ???
  • cabinethawkcabinethawk Member Posts: 1
    You might try looking at the pick-up screen in you fuel tank. Sometimes you have junk in your fuel that blocks the fuel tack up screen after the vehicle moves and stirs up the particles in the fuel. When it is off and sets the particles drop off the screen. Next time you start up the process starts all over again. The bad thing is you have to drop the fuel tank to remove the low pressure pump and screen. There are other things that can cause the vehicle to stall after a few minuets, but if it caughs and sputters chances are it is a fuel problem. If it is electrical it useually is abrubpt.
  • ramadamdamramadamdam Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    I see that the post was done in 09' but was wondering if you ever found out what the problem was. I also own a 93 ford bronco EB 5.8 and have the similar problem. I seem to drive it all around town and after it gets hot I try speeding up from a complete stop by putting my foot down on the pedal it seems to just sit in first gear and not shift... any suggestions? :confuse:
  • qba217qba217 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 bronco with 113k on it and its doing the exact same thing.drives fine for about five min then it loosed power ,to suddenly regain.my inlaw has bin working in Ford engines for over 40
    years and he said to change the distributor cap ,sometimes water seeps in,its bin raining here in northeast jersey so it kind of makes sense.I'm gonna have my distributor cap and spark plugs and wires replaced and check back on outcome tomorrow...
  • fishnfishn Member Posts: 3
    I picked up a 95 bronco with 113444mi on it. I replaced the dist cap & wires as it was running rough in wet weather &that seemed to clear that problem. Now ,it will idle ok while in neutral,but as soon as I put it in gear it will still idle but will not take any gas. It will chug, back fire etc.but won't accelerate. I ended up going a few miles at idle. Also the trans linkage is very loose,sloppy.
  • qba217qba217 Member Posts: 2
    ok got my truck back and it turned out that the gas tank was rusted out.changed the fuel filter also and its running like a champ again. :blush:
  • idahoekyidahoeky Member Posts: 1
    Sorry I see it's been awhile from when you posted orginally, I would look at the turn signal switch, it controls all of those functions. If you have the tilt wheel, it a bit of a pain. Next would be the grounds, by each tail light and turn signal is a ground if they arnt hooked up or have proper connection throws light off...
  • mikec27mikec27 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1988 full size bronco. I replaced the engine with a fred jones rebuild 302(EOC). Now the trans won't work, when you bolt up the trans it pushes the pump arm back and breaks it. Does or has anyone had this problem. How did you fix it? The trans is an aod.
  • eversolleversoll Member Posts: 1
    By the way it sounds or as you explaine it you have Not Set the torque converter in right.. it should turn in three times and set inI did the same thing so don't get in a huff... It really pissed me off to think after all that work I had to replace the front pump AGAIN.....

    Try it again and see if the bugger lines up.. take care, John
  • jmdellecjmdellec Member Posts: 1
    I have owned my 1988 Ford Bronco II XL for a few months now and have had quite a few problems with it recently. The interior is beyond excellent condition and the exterior is in good condition aside from a few scratches. It has the original 2.9 6cyl engine in it, which has been rebuilt. But there are quite a few issues which I do not know how to resolve or deal with. I'll weed out a few possibilities by pointing out whats been done to it.

    Brand new radiator
    New spark plugs
    New pickup in the distributor
    New coil
    New spark wires
    New fuel pump regulator
    New fuel filter
    Oil and oil filter changed
    Heads have been shaved and gasket replaced (SUPPOSEDLY)
    Transmission is fairly new

    But heres the problems i'm having...

    Coolant reservoir empties out frequently
    Radiator empties out.
    Starts immediately when cold, but when its been running for a little while it can sometimes take up to 10 or so seconds to start.
    Looks like water in oil. There is a white gunk on the very tip of the oil dipstick, and on the engine oil cap; and when hot steam can sometimes come out of the oil cap.
    Idles very low sometimes.
    Picks up speed very slowly sometimes. (1mph a second)
    Shifts at dangerously high RPMs sometimes, unless I step off the gas and step back on.

    It needs a new computer, and eventually a new fuel pump. That I know from what i've been told. Everything else works great. All the electrics, AC, power steering, and brakes work fine. This truck was gifted to me and is absolutely beautiful, so I don't want to have to get rid of it. If someone can help me resolve these issues it would be greatly appreciated. I would like to have the truck 100% as soon as possible, i'm a 20 yr old college kid and I have to have this vehicle running to get to my classes. Also, someone told me its possible to drop a Ford 289 engine in the Bronco without having to really change anything, is it true? And how much would that cost?

    Thank you very much!!
  • mfour4mfour4 Member Posts: 1
    My 92 Bronco was involved in a front end collision enough to minorly bend the frame. The engine stopped run almost immediately after the impact. Problem is the motor still turns over and will fire up if gas is injected directly into the intake but will not continue to run. Is there an automatic fuel shut off that needs resetting by any chance? All damage was to front end.
    thanks
  • krys5krys5 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92 Bronco and it was doing perfectly fine, after a few days of not starting it up i went to start it and it didnt start, i thought it wasnt getting enough power and my battery cables werent in the best of shape so i put in some new ones, it still didnt start. its getting fuel, the fuel pump is good, the spark plugs are good as well as the wires, im not sure the problem. any help would be appreciated
  • caskeyacaskeya Member Posts: 2
    well my 88 bronco got messed up and my transmission fluid dumped out from somewhere, but its probably the transmission being mine does exactly that.
  • caskeyacaskeya Member Posts: 2
    i tried getting out of a rut with my bronco, and my transmission fluid was drained entirely out of my vehicle, but it still turns over, and reves, but idk if its part of the transmission or just cause all the fluid dumped, but idk where to begin with looking. i looked under it and found some traces of trany fluid on the front axle. its a 2x4, so if anyone could tell me i need a new transmission or something less problematic. please reply.
  • tclovertclover Member Posts: 4
    I had a problem like this and it was the TPS sensor. The only difference is when I parked the Bronco it was bucking and would not idle without foot on gas.
  • black_beautyblack_beauty Member Posts: 1
    V8 5.8 It was running just fine, i stopped to let a friend out of the bronco, put on reverse to back up and leave and when i shifted to drive again, rpm needle went to 0. fuel needle went from being half full to FULL..... then i noticed the acceleration was of, and if i hit throttle the rpms of the car would drop like if it was getting fuel congestion in the motor!! I HAVE NO CLUE WHATS WRONG... is it sensors. is it transmission. is it cables. or motor? :cry: :sick: :lemon: ???? Can anyone help?
  • jenjohn007jenjohn007 Member Posts: 1
    Hey yall,

    I've got an 85 Bronco 2.8L 6cyl 5 Speed. Engine runs like a champ. Got a starting problem.

    It all started 2 days ago when my husband was driving it and said as he got to work, the radio stopped working, his gauges would not work, and neither would his blinkers. Went to his work, jump started him, drove to O'rielys and replaced the battery after 9 years (lol). Started right up then and there. We looked at the copper connections on the back of the alternator, saw they didn't have a great connection, so we put a bolt on the screw to ensure the connectors would stay on. The next day, my husband drove it again: started up right in the morning, he got off work, made 3 close range stops, made a 4th stop and needed a jump again. Again, he would try to start, but it only made a repetitive clicking noise. Jumped him, drove it home, and again, only clicking when trying to start. So we replaced the alternator and the voltage regulator, and still a clicking noise. We jumped it once again, but after about 10 minutes of just idling, I smelled burning plastic. Come to find out, the voltage regulator had a crack in the black plastic on the back and it was EXTREMELY hot to touch, only after 10 minutes. I'm not sure as where we need to look for a problem. It has 950k on it currently and the odometer has rolled over once already. It's definitely been worth the money spent so I'm trying to figure a solution before I get too frustrated and just trash it. My husband is a diesel mechanic so he can understand all the lingo. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you and have a great day!
  • cdcdarbcdcdarb Member Posts: 4
  • howard31howard31 Member Posts: 2
  • reeevesreeeves Member Posts: 3
  • hollarhollar Member Posts: 2
  • shootitshootit Member Posts: 2
    this truck started idling @ 1500 rpm. my scanner wont connect with the ecm, i removed the idle air control and blocked the port, but still idling @ 1500 rpm. any help?
  • shootitshootit Member Posts: 2
    i disconnected the air charge temp sensor it changed the idle, but it went back to 1500 rpm. i replaced it but made no difference.
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