Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

stever · September 2002

Sailboat, we have a Feedback Form just for your kind of questions. Here's the link:

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Steve

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swschrad · September 2002

can't say I have gotten underneath yet and reached WAY up under the fender to verify this, but.....

the Explorer descended originally from the Ranger. the taillight wiring harness has very little slack on the Ranger. when I shotgunned my bulbs on my last Ranger, I had the same experience on the rear lenses, and found it was that I was pulling on the wires. had to reach up from underneath to rotate the lamp assembly a quarter turn and pull it out of the lens before I could pull the lens away.

there was a redesign in 95 and since I haven't yanked at my 2000 exploder back there yet there I don't know this for sure, but 90-93 for sure there should have been four bolts holding the lens assembly. you may have to raise the hatchback to see the others. if it wasn't dark and past midnite, I'd go to the garage and check it myself. but I had to drop tailgate on my 90 ranger to find the other bolts, then discover the tail socket wires had very little slack in them.

zman3 · September 2002

Thanks for the quick repsonse. The two screws that I removed were exposed when I lifted the rear hatch. There is nothing exposed (from what I can tell) when the hatch is shut. It could be the harness keeping it in at that point, however. I'll have to check it out.

bioman3 · September 2002

According to the Haynes manual you remove the two screws at the top of the assembly and "pull the housing straight out from the body." The photos of the housing pulled away from the body show that, as per Swschrad, the housing is on a short leash. As per our experiences with Explorers,don't pull too hard since you may pull off the quarter panel to which the light housing is attached. Remember Quality is Job One!!

opera_house_wk · September 2002

on the tail light that fit into spring clips. If they get rusty they can be a bear to pull out the assembly. I bought my Explorer and tail light looked like a fish bowl. I think previous owner tried replacing a lamp and put a hairline crack in the lens when the assembly stuck. I used a clear plastic sealer to fix the crack where I could, drilled small holes in in the bottom of each lens cavity, coated the lamp connections these posts with silicone grease. It is best to use a small pry tool when you first remove the lens assembly. After a lube they come out really easy. I still get droplets of water. That is the reason you need to coat lamp contacts ith silicone. Replacements are available at headlightwharehouse.com and autobodypanels.com.

zman3 · September 2002

Thanks everyone for the information. It is truly appreciated. Opera_house - one question on the spring clips. Are the posts and clips designed to pull the assembly straight out like bioman3 says, or is there supposed to be some type of upward motion? Like I said before I don't want to break anything. Since my vehicle is 8 years old I assume there is a little bit of rust on them.

adamharris · September 2002

thanks for the help - you guys have all been great - in response to my problem with my explorer intermittently turning over but not starting I think I've narrowed it down to either 1. vapor lock and/or a fuel pump that is dying or 2. the module pack. My question is, what does the module pack do? I know it's electical, but that's about all I know.
Adam

swschrad · September 2002

in general, if it's connected with the ignition system and outside the computer's box, the "module pack" is the current source that drives the coil(s). depending on engine age and control sophistication, it could be the whole package, taking the crank position sensor data and maybe an analog voltage or two from elsewhere and determining when the plugs should fire (70s, 80s). in more recent engines, it is likely just a power stage. but if it has an intermittent inside, it's still a point of failure.

mcaldron · September 2002

I have a 97' Explorer XLT with about 90,000 miles on it. The odometer stopped working a few months ago, and it is really time to get it fixed. Can anyone give some guidance on this one?

Also, is there a way to get the stereo out with out using the special tool?

Thanks!

opera_house_wk · September 2002

broph · September 2002

Imacmil - I'd be very interested in the outcome if you brought your explorer into the dealer for this code. My Explorer is also a '96 with the same code, but has 114K on it. I had the ECM & O2 sensor replace about 2 years ago I also had this reset a few times n.g. I have been running it this way for over 2 years & it still runs good. Being this is my first Explorer I do not know the usual gas mileage, I get approx. 13 - 15 mpg mixed driving. I'm very leary about going to the dealer, because everytime I got a vehicle back, something else would be wrong. Coincidence??
Good luck & thanks.

Tom

lmacmil · September 2002

The light is off now because I think the shop that checked it must have reset it. If it comes on again I'll get the code checked at Autozone and if it's the same, I'll go to the dealer. I'm told the catalytic converter is covered for 8/80,000 as an emission systems device. I don't have any driveability problems but on a 1500 trip a year ago, averaged only 16.6 mpg which I thought was a little low for highway driving.

I know what you mean about the typical dealer service dept. They often aren't any better than the independants but cost a lot more.

daryll40 · September 2002

I took delivery yesterday of an '03 Mountaineer that I ordered in July. It has every possible option except the DVD thingie. The ride is EXCELLENT as compared to the '99 Explorer that it replaces. The two complaints that I have, however, are:
1. They changed the middle seat in the back without warning (or I might have bot an '02). On the '02, the back folds down neatly into the floor after the seat is flipped up. The kids can use the middle then as a little table. Now it won't fold flat at all because they added a 3 point seat belt.

2. The rear hatch window will only close if pressure is applied DIRECTLY to the center over the Mercury logo. I noticed a neighbor's '02 Explorer and it appears that Ford changed the entire closing mechanism...but it only "catches" when you apply the pressure as noted or "slam" it shut with extreme force.

Any comments?

Daryll40, Pittsburgh

dsheldon2 · September 2002

Well first Zman3, you just pull the cover straight out-feels like it is going to break, but it won't-did this last night to replace my brake light bulbs-was tentative as you have been, thinking I would break the light cover-it just pops in and out.

I need some help-my brake lights are not working-replaced the bulbs, but that was not the problem. The fuses all look fine-but frankly my manual doesn't really point out which fuse is the brake light fuse. However, all fuses look fine. I have a 98 Eddie Bauer. I'll have to go into the shop where I'm sure they will decide it's some major electrical problem that will cost me a fortune-so I'm hoping someone out there can point me in the right direction before Ford "takes me for a ride". Thanks.

dsheldon2 · September 2002

Turns out my brake light problem was the brake switch--found under the dash board. The part was around $8. A friend pointed me in the direction of an honest (is this possible) mechanic who knew exactly what it was-sent me out to get the part and put it in for me on the spot. I feel like I've died and gone to heaven.
Now to figure out what that rattle is in the under carriage---muffler vibrating against something??? I'll go back to honest Abe when he has more time. If any of you have any ideas though.......

swschrad · September 2002

and while looking for it, I also found that the chassis bender crossthreaded one of the two front spring leaf holddown bracket bolts and it had over a half inch of rattle room.

couldn't back that one out, had to cut it and replace.

that was one of my tiny rattles... I have a toolkit with a rattle in it that is hiding the other right now, so that tells you how small an issue it is.

opera_house_wk · September 2002

I have a 97 and the first stainless heat shield just back of the engine had a mounting strap around the pipe break. A stainless steel hose clamp fixed it.

swschrad · September 2002

haven't had one go yet, but when they do, I hear it's not always intuitive to find the source.

I do like to get underneath once a year or so and tap things, especially before a long trip or vacation out in the middle of nowhere. find a lot of dinky little rattle makers doing that.

for those who haven't had the pleasure yet... WARNING, chock the wheels on opposite corners, tranny in park, parking brake ON, all sets of keys in your pocket. don't raise the freakin' car to do this unless you have sturdy ramps with no damage that can hold twice the car's weight. NEVER get anything underneath a car, even a hand, if it's being held by a jack, NEVER. life safety issues here. if you have remote starting on your key fobs, take the batteries OUT first. level ground only. our lawyers thank you

4apexs · September 2002

Help!
My wife just bought a 1999 EB with automatic climate control. Living in Chicago traffic, she likes to have max-AC on all the time to keep out smog. Problem - while the heater works on auto or manual directions settings - on max-AC it will not blow warm air - even at 90 degree setting, still has cold air - suggestions??
Thanks in advance....

adamharris · September 2002

thanks to some helpful posts I've replaced the very inexpensive fuel pump and EEC relays ... no problems yet, but if it won't start again my next move will be to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) ... could someone tell me where this is located and how hard it is to replace? Hopefully I won't ever have to - I'm hoping the 2 new relays will do the trick.
Adam

swschrad · September 2002

what diagnosis has led to this unusual combination of replacements?

you need fuel, air, and spark to run the car. assuming you tested the fuel pump by putting jumpers in the body wiring harness plug and ran them direct to the battery, then measured the pressure at the fuel rail... and assuming you have checked the intake and exhaust systems for restrictions and put a clean air filter in line just for the randy hell of it... spark is a useful place to go next.

however, there are a L O T of electronics in spark beyond just the crank sensor. thousands of dollars worth. not to mention the coils, ignition wires, and plugs. checking the computer with a scan tool is definitely in order for trouble codes... or any indication that the computer can talk to the tool, because if it can't it probably isn't talking to anything else. you can run a gross spark test by putting a neon bulb on the end of a long stick, and holding it by a plug wire while cranking. no orange flashes, suspect spark.

if you can lead us through the process, there are some serious wrenches who drop by that can help. also post what kind of engine is in this thing, it makes a difference.

eddiejobob · October 2002

My 94 has developed a strange problem. When it first starts up it revs up normally and then idles down quickly and stalls. Usually then second time I start it, then it will idle and warm up. It's not a bad problem yet, but my experience says that soon things will head for the worst. I don't know if it's related but the "check engine" light now comes on occasionally as well. I don't have an Autozone to check the codes and I don't want to pay the dealer 119$ just to look at the emissions. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! thanks,ed

swschrad · October 2002

ford engine computers start rich on the "limp mode" stored curves, then play around a bit for 20 to 30 seconds or so with the mixture and spark and see if they can get off the limp mode and run more or less realtime (more when the engine temp is up and air temp is normal, less when it's colder than a tax man's smile up here a shovel's throw from Frostbite Falls.) during that time, the idle speed varies. on my 4-banger ranger with dual plugs which I traded off two years ago, the computer also periodically tries cutting out the secondary plug bank (on the drivers' side of the engine) and if it won't stay in the zone, cuts it back in.

all the factors you mention are consistent with issues that indicate running problems, and the computer knows on the second start that it has to fall back to limp mode and not hink with things until it's warmed up.

the codes will be real useful. how many miles you got on this thing, and which engine? pull a couple of plugs and check their condition, spray the ignition wires with a mister in a darkened garage and look for sparks and corona to do an ugly quick test on whether your wires are going away. is the EGR valve surrounded by little wisps of carbon, perhaps? is the air filter clean? fuel filter replaced at 30,000 mile intervals? some of the old tune-up tricks from way back when computers still had vacuum tubes and tape drives for storage are still valid for a first run-through on what could be at issue.

but the stored codes in the computer will help pinpoint whether any of the expensive parts, like 02 sensors, need to be evaluated as well.

opera_house_wk · October 2002

Few things are as satisfying as removing exhaust bolts intact from a ten year old car. The four bolts that held the Y pipe to the exhaust headers have been removed on my 92 Explorer. The last major obstacle before the removal of the A4LD transmission. Tense moments ensued as the heavily extended breaker bar hobbled and sounds emanated that mimicked a cracking socket or shattering bolt. One 3/8 extension sheared, six were used in series to reach the bolts. Penetrating oil, good tools, or skill had nothing to do with it. Exhaust hardware only comes apart as a result of divine providence.

Now comes the easy part as I attempt to rebuild my first automatic transmission.

swschrad · October 2002

he is on track for sainthood! his first miracle is documented here

teacher7 · October 2002

I just purchased a 97 Explorer XLT 4.0. The truck came with two remotes, but the gentleman I purchased it from never used them at all. At this point they do not work. I replaced the batteries in them, but they still do not work.

Are there instructions available on how I can program them myself, or will I have to go to the dealer?

I looked through the site, but was unable to navigate through all of the messages to see if this had been discussed. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

stever · October 2002

All I remember seeing is a reference that a dealer has to do it and it should cost ~$45 US.

Anyone know the trick?

Steve
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jrc346 · October 2002

They are very easy to program as I have had to program 2 or 3 from them getting lost. (NOT CHEAP!) All you do it cycle the ignition switch to the run (not start) prosition and back to off three times or until the door locks lock and unlock by themselves. Then right after they do that with the ingnition switch still in the run position click the lock or unlock buttons on both of the remotes. This should do it.
If this does not work then you have to go to the dealer and usually they will try the process for free (mine did the first time). If they can't do it then something has to be done to the computer and it will cost around $80.00 to have it done (at my dealership). Goodluck!

rocky5656 · October 2002

I noticed you mentioned holding a neon bulb close to a plug wire to confirm spark, what do you mean by "neon"? You mean flourescent?
Thank you.

teacher7 · October 2002

Thanks a bunch!!! I was able to reprogram both remotes with no problem at all.

jrc346 · October 2002

I'm glad that I could help out. Enjoy your Explorer!

bivit · October 2002

I purchased a 2002 Ford Explorer, XLT 4x4 with leather interior, in Mar,2001, from Shelor Ford,in Christiansburg, Va. The dealer has had the vehicle for 44 days for warranty work. They don't seem to be able to fix things the first time, if they ever do get it fixed. They are unaware of technical service bulletins...(I had to go to this website where someone made me aware that a "TSB" was issued for my transmission problem. They fixed that problem with the info. I gave them. Still having problems with transmission after two repairs. I wrote the President of Ford...received a call from a secretary in his office...said she would call the dealership...she did...nothing happened...after time and more calls, said that they have little control over the dealerships. On salesmen's promises and representations - Service manager said " they can't be held to what salemen tell or promise the customer". I called Larry Shelor, President of the dealership...Received a call back from a "Customer Service" Rep. Said that Mr. Shelor would not speak with me "he is a very busy man". She acknowledged that the file showed that my explorer had quite a number of problems and warranty repair visits. She finally suggested that I "may want to go to another dealership for warranty work" There are other issues... if anyone is interested, post a message...

tidester · October 2002

They don't seem to be able to fix things the first time, if they ever do get it fixed.

I am sorry to hear of your troubles with the dealer. How about taking a short drive up to Blacksburg where I expect you'll find better service and competence.

tidester
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swschrad · October 2002

no, a neon bulb that glows orange, like on the end of a two-wire two-dollar power tester. by the induced voltage effect, a neon bulb will glow as spark voltage goes past it on the wire if it's high enough. if there is a break in the carbon conductor and a little dinky spark bridges it inside the wire jacket, that generates a point source of radio frequency energy, and that is almost always strong enough to light off the neon gas inside a neon bulb. it helps that the two vertical electrodes are coated for a reliable trigger of around 55 volts.

fluorescent bulbs are not sensitive enough to show this, and the phosphor also absorbs enough energy that you won't see the effect. fluorescents depend on mercury vapor gas to light, and there is no pre-heat charge in this application to vaporize enough mercury to conduct in the first place across the uncoated electrode pins in the ends.

rocky5656 · October 2002

Hey swschrad, send me a picture of this little devil, if you can!
Thanks.

swschrad · October 2002

http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=fra_pdfset&dir=611&pdffile=154

ne-2H type bulb is what I had in mind.

njdevilsrn · October 2002

Hi all. Quiet in here, so I will pose the following questions. I'm planning on keeping my 2000 XLS for a while. In addition to purchasing the Ford Premium Care ESP in the next month or so, I was wondering about some of the following as in my younger days, I got 2 Explorers and dumped them with less than 30000 on either one...

1 - Tires - Currently riding on Michelin Cross Terrain SUV, they have about 21000 miles on them. They are, OK, were a noticeable improvement over the Wilderness. How long do you think these will last?

2 - Brakes - 27000 miles on the truck, all original equipment. I do a good mix of driving, and I'm not hard on them at all. How long until they go, and I would assume front would go first.

3 - Shocks - Not having any problems in terms of durability, but when they do go, I would like to upgrade to something that helps hold the road better on turns with bumpy roads (I'm sure all 2001 and before drivers know of the skipping rear end) Any thoughts?

broph · October 2002

I'm due to change these two things & would like to get to it before the winter. How hard is it to change the fluid in both differentials? & what should I go with synth or regular. I own a '96 explorer for little over 2 years with 114K on it & believe it is the orig fluid. It's due. Thanks in advance,

Tom

smily1 · October 2002

My breaks lasted 40k on my 98. Replaced the shocks at about the same time with edelbrock IAS and have been very happy with them. Billstiens are good as well...so I hear. No idea on the tires. Im getting Michellin ATX/AT's (I do some off roading...)

never had a skipping rear end.

dtownfb · October 2002

i also have a 96 Explorere and changed the differential fluid at 121k in Feb. Considering your mileage and the fact that the regular differential fluid last 114k miles, I woud just use the normal fluid. Save our money for something else.

broph · October 2002

Thanks for the input. I think I 'll stay with the norm. I agree on saving $$ for something else.

rocky5656 · October 2002

Thanks for the info, I'll try it out! I'll let you know the results.
Yours

opera_house_wk · October 2002

After 3 weeks I finally got the A4LD transmission pulled from my 92 Explorer. Took that long because it's at a remote location, only worked on it now and then, always missing some tool I needed, was also replacing water pump and front seal, waiting for penetrant to do its work and maybe spending too much time watching B movies. Scariest part was removing the exhaust bolts from the manifold. It took six extensions in series and one of them sheared. Broke a socket removing the transmission cross member and sheared another extension. Most time consuming thing was the removal of the torque converter bolts. Took forever for me to find a thin wall socket to take the 4 bolts out of the torque converter. Thought I was going to have to grind down a socket. They are mounted as close as you can get to the outside ring. And then there was that rotate the engine, get back under the car, oops too far, back again and again. My removal method was probably a little different than standard. I removed the valve body and all other linkage so I would have a flat surface to mount the jack to. I'll make something better when I install it back in one piece. Instead of a transmission stand, I used an engine stand. It is an absolute must to be able to rotate the transmission.

Now to take it apart. The bellhousing attaches with 8 bolts. After those are removed the, the pump assembly comes out with the belhousing. If you keep it intact there is no need to do the realignment needing special tools. This transmission was "rebuilt" in 96 (weld broke on planetary gear in overdrive) and I was interested if the bands were adjusted correctly. This transmission could have had the single or double wrap overdrive band (2 or 3 ½ turns). For reference, I was going to count how many turns. Problem is there is an O-ring under the backoff nut and it welds itself to the adjusting screw over time. Just another reason why not to adjust the bands when it is in the car.

The first thing to pull out of the transmission is the overdrive clutch followed by the OD planetary gear. These are probably the two parts that fail most often in an A4LD. Nice that they are the first ones that come out. The overdrive clutch has band that goes around it and also an internal clutch. This was where my problem was. The clutch assembly mounts to the spline shaft with a piece called a star washer or OD clutch adaptor. The outside has 8 square teeth that mount to the clutch and it had been riding over these teeth for 70K. Star washer had blued and bent backward. The clutch teeth knurled over and I had to use a dremel tool to grind them back so I could remove the internal clutch piston parts. Bet you always heard that you need special tools to work on a transmission. I made a clutch spring compressor out of an almost used up mylar tape spool, piece of a an aluminum picture frame, long bolt and some washers.

Transmissions are losing their mystic quality. I bought new clutches and steel plates. Every clutch and band I have looked at so far is like new. Good thing these parts will also fit my 5R55E. I could just stop here and replace the OD clutch and go for years. It is likely that many shops that rebuild transmissions only replace the really damaged parts. I think my star washer was marginal and they didn't want to spend the $3 for a new one. That's why it lasted only14 months. If you shop for price, that's what you'll get. I'll never pay to have a transmission rebuilt again. They are just so easy to work on and you just don't know what kind of job someone else will do. I think I'd pay someone to take it out though. Now if I can just find all those pieces that sprung out of the valve body!

swschrad · October 2002

you will have spares somewhere close by :-D

I do hope you took digital photos and will post the disassembly/reassembly step by step

seriously, way cool, keep whaling on it! I have heard that the shops with good reputations really do replace everything that is under load, because of the comeback factor... and it makes it easier to promote The Religion of Magical Geegaws as the power in tranny land.

opera_house_wk · October 2002

This has been discussed before but I was never able to find the exact information needed for a quick temporary fix for my 97 Explorer. I wanted to find the best point of entry to physically move the blend door. So consequently, I had to turn my plenum box into Swiss cheese. The black plastic plenum box is located directly behind the glove box door. The glove box is held in by a plastic tab on each side. Pressing these in will allow the box to swing down. Removal is not necessary. The plenum box has a vertical and horizontal seam. The heater core is located to the right of the horizontal seam. Do not drill any holes to the right of the seam. Easiest entry is to the left of this seam and above the horizontal seam. This space is deep and the only thing you have to worry about is cutting into the external control hoses. It is possible to cut away enough plastic to get your hand in. I drilled some large holes and cut away the rest with a razor knife. You have to reach in about six inches and then bend your hand to the right behind the heater core to get to the blend door. Mine was stuck in the AC position even though the rotary control was set to max heat. The door wouldn't budge when I grabbed it. So, I set the temperature control to cold. After I heard the actuator motor stop, I grabbed the door and then set the temperature back to the high heat position. As the motor turned, I was able to move the blend door to the heat position. The door seems to want to stay where you put it using this method. Used a small 5/8 inch hose taped to a shop vac to reach through the opening and suck up the plastic chips. I sealed up the hole that was made in the case with aluminum (actual metal) furnace tape that is very strong and has glue that gets even better with heating. Temperature regulation is now a function of the OFF, fan speed control, and window opening, about the same as in my old F110 pickup. This might help you get through a tough spot and since you get a new plenum box when the final repair modification is done, you don't have to worry about the hole you made.

pcjames4 · October 2002

Hello,

My 2000 4 door explorer has a sagging rear end since I added my class III hitch. Is this normal? A very helpful board poster mentioned that I needed to add coil over springs in the rear and new shocks. My truck has 60K miles. What is the best brand to improve my rear stance and overall ride? Also, I keep hearing about these Kelly brand tires for SUV's that rarely leave the pavement. They are supposed to be great for quiet riding and smoothness. Anyone ever use these tires?

Thanks.

scrappy6 · October 2002

Hi folks just wanted to let you know that I took my Explorer in for the problems I had in earllier posts with the engine cutting out. The service manager had an idea right away what it might be and so far it looks like it fixed it. There was a recall out there on it for faulty lower intake gaskets and timing chain tensioner. Once these were replaced she runs like a champ. So everything was paid for courtesy of Ford. Thanks for all you advice folks!

mookie14 · October 2002

i have a problem here i have 2000 xls i will be driving it until feb 03. its a lease im in the process of getting things back to way i got it from day one so it can go back to the dealer. now i have 54700 miles on it 1st off the rear shocks i mean i feel every bump im getting monro sensa tracks on the rear is there a need to to invest in this thing i do not own it? question? besides normal maintenance what will they look for when you return it back to them other than that this it thanks .

daryll40 · October 2002

and have them assess the car. While dealers are not as lenient as in the good ol' days when cars held their values better, I suspect that they won't be as rough on you as you think. Shocks, for instance, are something they can't see, so my guess is that they won't be an issue. And if you are rolling into a new Ford product, I suspect they'll be even MORE lenient.

mookie14 · October 2002

NEVER IN A MILLION YRS will i a get another ford product. they called today and wanna know why i dissed them on a survey. about this crappy truck for now not bad it gets me 2 work. but overall it sucks but anyway what about the shocks and turning this thing back in what should i expect thanks whomever.the dealers sucks also man ford is horrible im going back to chevy period.

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