Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

mbro · July 2003

Thanks for your detailed and thoughtful response. I am certainly not a gear head, so no insult taken re: questioning the over heating. The problem started off only when driving at highway speeds in 100 degree temps and above and then slowing to a stop due to traffic. Now it will happen consistently at 95 degree plus weather. Generally, I have to have been driving at freeway speeds for some time (half hour to 45 minutes will do it), but I don't have to slow to stop and go traffic speeds. While driving, the temp gauge will go to the top of the white zone, but not past it. However, when I stop, it will go into the red. The engine smells very hot. One dealership told me this was normal and not to worry. Another told me anything past the middle was a problem and it had to be fixed. You mention finding a qualified mechanic. I would have thought a Ford dealership would be qualified to work on a Ford, but I guess not.

The A/C, according to the dealer, has a leaky front shaft seal. They tell me that you cannot replace the seal. I would have to replace the whole compressor.

krisak26 · July 2003

Thanks for your responses. I will try to pull the ABS fuse, but I have noticed that when the ABS light is on the brakes lock up very easily. I know that the ABS system is disabled when the light is on, but it seems that it is very unsafe. I just bought this 1993 Explorer for $2500 as a second car and was wondering how good the 4.0 engine and transmission are. The Explorer has 222,000 miles and the engine and transmission perform very well. I know that neither the engine or transmission have been re built. The only problems so far are the ABS light and it does leak a little oil near the oil filter.

wijoco · July 2003

You definitely have an undercooling problem, I wonder if you don't have a plugged radiator. It's all speculation, but I just can't believe you had three bad thermostats in a row on this Explorer. What engine do you have? If it's the 5.0, then it's possible the cooling system is plugged with corrosion from the cast iron engine. This can result from an inadequately maintained cooling system, and happens more quickly than if you had an aluminum engine. But like I said, it's all guesswork on my part. Your best bet is to call around and find a new mechanic, probably an independent shop, who is willing to take the time to listen to your problem over the phone and takes an interest in the details. Often a mechanic who is a good listener will also be more thorough in his diagnostics. Ask friends, family, and co-workers for advice on good mechanics in your area. And it sounds like you're indeed in for a new compressor, no easy way around it. Boy, you sure had some bad luck with that Explorer. Update us on the cooling system fix, I'm dying to know what the problem is.

wijoco · July 2003

The 4.0 motor and transmission on those early Explorers were great, you should feel safe. The reason I said to pull the ABS fuse for safety is this: a malfunctioning ABS system can misinterpret wheel speeds. If the ABS system is still active (light is off), then it can think that a wheel is locking up when it isn't, and cycle the ABS pump. When the brake pedal pulsates, you lose a lot of braking power because the pads are being disengaged and reapplied very quickly instead of constantly applied. This can be very dangerous when you need to stop quickly, and can actually cause an accident. GM had trouble with their truck ABS systems in the early 90's. Wheel speed sensors would malfunction, and the ABS would intermittently engage during normal traffic stops. That sent a lot of folks in S-10s and C/K pickups conducting their own personal front-end crash tests into other people's cars at red lights. If the brakes are locking up with the ABS off, then you likely have a mechanical problem with your brakes that you really need to resolve. Drums are the first suspect: overadjusted drums are usually the cause of brake lock. Good luck.

enforcer · July 2003

there was a TSB on the thermostats - you'll have to dig through the old postings to find more info. i was even told that there was a hidden warranty on them since it was well known that they were defective, though it didn't matter to me as i had an extended warranty that covered it.

you should not have to pay for more than one stat, esp. as this problem has been written up by Ford.

bigalds · July 2003

mbro - I am amazed and saddened by all your problems with your 2000 Eddie Bauer Explorer. I will try to help, if I can. I have owned 3 Explorers and do all my own work, complete A/C work, rebuild automatic transmissions, Rebuild Differentials, etc. I don't know if you want to get into fixing it yourself or not, depends on your ability and what tools and what kind of garage facility you have. I can help to steer you and the right direction to find out what is going on with your cooling system and what to do about it.
First, I didn't see any mention in the posts of what ENGINE you have in your vehicle. You should always start with complete vehicle information. I can give you some basic trouble shooting procedures that will work for any cooling system. You need some basic tools and you need a specialized tool that is not too expensive, an infrared Thermometer, price has come down on them to less than $100 now, and is VERY useful for Lots of other things too. I pasted a section below about checking the cooling system.

If you have an overheating problem with you vehicle, try doing a little diagnosis with an infrared thermometer. Do not depend on the temperature gauge for an accurate temperature reading. You need to know what the actual temperatures are at several points in the cooling system. This is one of the places that an infrared thermometer proves really useful. If you don't have one, borrow one or buy one. They are a great help.
First, be sure the Cooling System is Clean and Full of Coolant. If not, Flush and Clean the cooling system, and refill with new coolant. The usual recommendation is a 50-50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water for normal conditions and driving. Check for any coolant leaks, and repair any that are found. Check all hoses and belts for any signs of damage, swelling, chaffing, etc and replace any that are found defective or suspect. Check to be sure the Belt is tight and turning the water pump freely. Check the fan and fan clutch to be sure it is moving a lot of air through the radiator. The back of the radiator should have a fan shroud around the fan, to help pull the air through the radiator. Carefully placing your hand away from the fan and behind the fan and over the engine, you should feel a strong blast of air from the fan. If you have an electric fan, it should run shortly after the engine warms up and should run as often as needed to keep the engine cool. If the fan does not run enough, then check and repair the electrical controls for the electric fan. Measure the temp on each radiator tank with the infrared thermometer. Depending on the ambient temperature, and if you have the A/C off, the typical temp of the INLET tank will be the HOTTEST, at somewhere around 180 to 210 & the OUTLET tank would typically be somewhere about 10 to 30 degrees below that, maybe about 150 to 180 degrees. With the A/C on the temps will be slightly higher. Use cardboard shields to keep the infrared sensor from picking up engine heat. It will read much more accurately on dark surfaces, so paint any light or shiny surfaces you want to check with flat black paint first. Also hold the sensor under the hood for very short periods of time while taking a measurement, then pull it out quickly to keep it from picking up stray heat. Let it cool off often. Take each measurement several times to be sure that you have an accurate reading. What you want to look for is the DIFFERENCE in TEMPERATURE between the two tanks. The greater the amount of difference, the better the radiator is transferring heat from the coolant to the air, the better the radiator is cooling. I would consider 10 degrees difference to be the minimum, 20 to 25 difference to be average, and 30 to 40 degrees difference to be very good. After doing this test, you will have a better idea of where you stand, like how hot the actual coolant temperature is really getting and how much heat is being transferred to the air. If the temperature difference between the tanks is low, or both tanks are too hot, then check the system further. Check the fan & clutch & fan shroud & airflow through the radiator. Be SURE you have good airflow through the radiator first and that the radiator is not clogged with dirt or bugs. If airflow through the radiator is not strong, check and/or replace the Fan or the FAN Clutch. If it is still running hot, check water flow through radiator & engine. The primary element that affects water flow is the thermostat. Replace thermostats that do not open , only partially open, or act erratic. If you have a problem trying to determine if the problem is the thermostat or not, you can temporarily remove the thermostat and replace the thermostat housing with a new gasket, fill the system with clean coolant, and retest the system to see if the problem is fixed or not. Be sure to reinstall a good thermostat, as it is important for the proper operation of the engine and engine computer controls. The next element that effects water flow is a clogged or restricted radiator. If the system has been maintained and is clean, this should not be a problem. If you suspect it is, have it checked for proper flow by a radiator shop. Also recheck the radiator hoses. The Hose from the radiator outlet tank that carries coolant back into the engine should not collapse when the engine is revved up. Most return radiator hoses (usually the lower hose) have a spring inside of them to keep the hose from collapsing. Check this carefully.
If you still cant find the overheating problem, then take it to a competent radiator shop to have the system checked.
You can also go to batauto.com/ and post your problem there, as they have many helpful mechanics there waiting to help you.
Good Luck
Big AL in Sunny FLorida

njdevilsrn · July 2003

Hi all, have not posted on here in a while.

Last summer I noticed a pinging while cruising at highway speeds and with the AC on in my 2000 XLS with 4.0 OHV engine. I was using Hess fuel at the time, but this winter switched to Citgo due to their overwhelming presence in my neighborhood. I notice the pinging is not as prominent as it used to be, but it is still there. I'm running 87 octane. One of my buddies who used to work as a mechanic said I should run 89 octane because of the added power demands during this time. I know the owner's manual makes a pretty strong point to stay with 87. Any thoughts?

bigalds · July 2003

There are several causes for the pinging, can be carbon build up, dirty MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor), and some other things.
Trying going to the following website to see several possible solutions:

http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/web/pages/ping.html

nvbanker · July 2003

I have a 94 Eddie Bauer with 115,000 miles on the clock. Recently, the switch that engages the front transaxle seems to have gone dead. The light won't light, and nothing happens when you push it. I have long since lost the owner's manual. Does anybody have a clue as to whether there is a fuse for this, or is the switch bad, or is it a solenoid in the transfer case? Before I start looking, thought I'd ask. This can't be the first one of these to quit! FWIW, this has been an excellent truck. It's been abused horribly of late, and this is the first real problem we've had with it. Thanks.

leyrer · July 2003

I changed the fluid in my '96 differential, added the friction modifier, and now the differential no longer operates as a limited-slip. Has anyone had this problem?

kheintz1 · July 2003

After nearly 3 weeks in the shop (and driving a free loaner car courtesy of Graham Ford), I just got back my 2002 V8, 4WD XLT, which at 44,400 miles, required a transmission rebuild. Had I not bought Ford's 100,000 mile extended warranty ($1250.00) before the standard warranty expired, this repair alone would have cost me at least $2500.00, plus the cost of a rental vehicle. In fact, in just the past 3-4 months since I purchased my extended warranty, it has paid for itself several times over, and...it's transferable should I decide to sell the vehicle.

bigalds · July 2003

What kind of Friction modifier did you use and how much did you put in? The only thing I can think that the problem might be is that you did not put enough friction modifier in.

leyrer · July 2003

I put in 4 oz of the Ford friction modifier (Ford Part No. F3TZ-19B5646-MA), along with standard 90w gear oil, as specified by Ford.

I remember that years ago, limited slips required special fluid, and now Ford says to use the same oil for both Conventional and Traction-Lok differentials. I wonder if this is something that is new and improved, but really isn't, like permanently sealed for life bearings.

What bugs me is that the axle worked fine until I changed the fluid, which is standard maintenance for 100,000 miles.

opera_house_wk · July 2003

99.9% of the time it is the shift motor which either has dirty brush contacts or the oil in the motor bearings has dried out. If you are handy you can do this yourself at no cost or you can buy the part for about $400. I posted the procedure back about 200 posts or more. Do a search.

nvbanker · July 2003

That's not good news....but thanks.

kheintz1 · July 2003

The partial rebuild did not fix all of my truck's transmission problems, and the dealer is now requesting that Ford send in an engineer to assess the situation. When this happens, they're offering to give me a loaner Explorer to drive until the problem is solved. Meanwhile, I'm now arguing that Ford should replace my tranny with a new one, or else they can keep spending thousands more dollars out of their extended warranty program, attempting to "fix" it, and I think I need only two more attempts to invoke the Lemon Law? At any rate, once my truck's transmission problem is finally resolved, I'll seriously think about selling my truck and buying a new Toyota 4Runner. This is my first experience with a new American vehicle, and it may well be my last. Had I not purchased the extended warranty for this truck, I'd be in deep financial trouble by now.

jrc346 · July 2003

nvbanker:
Since you said that the light won't light I am lead to believe that it is in fact the fuse. I have a friend who had a very similar problem, but with a different brand of vehicle. Besides, a fuse would be a cheap first attempt at solving the issue. If that doesn't fix the problem, then go to the shift motor contacts, these seem to be a common culprit for the 4WD not engaging. Goodluck!

kheintz:
I honestly can't believe that they had your truck for 3 weeks! I also think that Ford made a mistake sealing up these trannies with 150,000 mile life expectancies. I think that one positive aspect is that you were able to get it replaced under your warranty. Some people never use it and complain for having purchased it. However, you probably got it for peace of mind, and in this situation you have some (at least for not having to pay and arm and a leg). If this incident has really burried your trust in your Explorer, then getting a 4-runner may be a good option. Then again you still have all of those miles on your extended warranty, so it may be worth your while to keep the Explorer. If you haven't had a lot of problems with the Explorer, then it may be a good truck, that just got a bad transmission? Anyway, I wish you luck with the transmission issue. Hopefully they will get it fixed and ready faster this time :-)

mookie14 · August 2003

im back man whats up i got the same problem with this throtle but it clears up all the time after i clean it. now what should i do to make it completely go away i cleaned the throtle inside and out. the cables i do not know what to do the springs where you lift it back to open the throtle i spays some clener on that. so what to do it goes back to ford oct 25 so i do not want no problems my warranty from wg is NO good so i i do not want pay for nothing so anyone 2000 xls exploder. i tookm off the platic cover also if that helps.

akangl · August 2003

Just bought the truck 3 weeks ago, it has the auto climate control and on any setting other than max a/c it only puts out heat no matter how low I set the temperature. I love the truck, just annoyed at the auto climate control, Ford dealer says its a common problem. Anybody else have this problem?

Only other thing wrong with it is an exhaust leak in the engine, its a great little truck. Got a great deal on it and traded in my Chevy K2500 with transmission problems.

nvbanker · August 2003

Well, if the Ford Dealer says it's a common problem, he should have an easy fix for it, right? I have been driving Ford cars with auto climate in them since 1990, and have had that problem only once, restarting the car resolved it. So, it's not that common. Something needs replacing on yours.....

akangl · August 2003

I've never owned a vehicle with auto climate control before and probably won't ever again. I prefer to be able to set it where I want it not where the truck thinks it should be. This is an all the time thing, so restarting the truck does no good.

Only way I can get it to work right is to put it on auto, if I push defrost, vent, panel or any of those it goes right to heat.

They are going to look it on the 18th, will cost me an hour labor to have them figure out what the problem is then go from there I guess. Said it could be a vacuum line, could be the head unit, could be the heater door....lots of things, frustrating no doubt.

nvbanker · August 2003

Oh, well, why didn't you say so? If I recall correctly, unless you use the bi-level or defrost mode, the compressor is disabled, so you do get heat. If it works properly in Auto, it works properly. You're one of those who like to override it all the time, which is common, and you should have a manual unit. But if you can learn to leave it on auto, and just adjust the temp & fan speed, you can live with it pretty easily.

stever · August 2003

Better cancel that appointment then. Besides, the longer you can stay away from a dealer, the longer you'll be driving the Explorer :-).

Since you're using the A/C, does that mean you made it to the Lower 48?

Steve, Host

akangl · August 2003

Nope, never did make it out of Alaska.

Nah, I wouldn't buy anything from this Ford dealer if they were the last one alive, I'd drive a Yugo first. However, they do have a good service department.

idntnvu · August 2003

has anyone had their cruise control units break off from the steering wheel? I actually bought my explorer with it broken, and informed the dealer to fix it and they never did, so when I got it I FIY'd the thing, but it's not like it should be. I just crammed the thing back into place and something is holding it, but I can tell it's broken off. Is there an easy fix to it other than my temporary job? It holds just fine, but if I slam on the horn when some nut job cuts me off, it falls off again, only held on by the wires. Any suggestions?

oskwi · August 2003

HELP! I have a friend who is unable to back her car up from the driveway onto the street. The car can be put into "drive" mode, but won't budge when it is put in "reverse" mode. A local mechanic seems to think it may be the rear calipers, but I have my doubts. Could the parking brake have gotten stuck to be causing this? I immediately thought of the transmission since so many of you have had your share of tranny problems, but the mechanic seems to think otherwise.

Any info. would be greatly appreciated as I don't want my friend's bank account and sanity to run dry!!! I want her to be able to speak intelligently about the source of the problem so that she doesn't get "taken". Thanks in advance for your help.

johnee99 · August 2003

btw - for those potentially bashing the "American car". Ford sourced the tranmission from outside the US - it's made in France.

johnee99 · August 2003

re: previous post. 2002 and newer transmissions.

I own a 2002 Eddie Bauer V8, 10k miles - overall, very happy with it.

opera_house_wk · August 2003

It would help to know the year and engine. The later years with the calipers have problems with the E brake. This is still a drum system and can delaminate even if never used. The E brake shoe breaks off into pieces and can jam. This should make some noise in forward and cause drum/rotor heating.

nvbanker · August 2003

And if it's not that, it's gotta be the tranny. I have had linkage break that causes the reverse to happen, can back up, but not drive it. Might be something with that, but I doubt it in your case.

swschrad · August 2003

finally had problems with mine and had to pull it and redo the cracking solder lands into surface-mount parts. get silver solder before doing this.

there is a detail web site on where the hassles are in this radio display, pay for info, at

http://www.shareamemory.com/radio

and I had to do it all, including fixing the display lands from the VF display and resoldering parts on the display board itself before it came back up.

tried to order the pioneer parts kit, their goofy web site says they have 'em until you register to allow ordering, then, so sorry, we have none. so reuse the boards you have.

idntnvu · August 2003

or else no one has any answers to any of my questions. Is there a reason I'm being ignored in here? I just found out I have recalls on the Explorer, and I want to find out more, but I won't waste my time typing them out if no one will bother to reply to what I say.

wijoco · August 2003

I think -possibly, I don't want to go out on a limb here- that no one responded because no one has experienced the same problem or has an "easy solution" like you wanted. Judging by the description of the broken cruise stalk, my best advice would be to "get it fixed." How's that? I doubt the cruise control stalk will be included in a recall-it's not a pressing safety concern. And allow me to apologize for all the posters here at Edmund's Town Hall for not meeting your lofty standards for free advice.

1sttimevolvo1 · August 2003

I agree with wijoco. If the the dealer you bought it from did not fix the cruise control at all or to your satisfaction, take the vehicle back and ask them to make it right (assuming you paid them to fix it). If you can't get satisfaction from that dealer, try another one. It seems simple enough.
Regards to the recall - is it related to the cruise control, or something else entirely?

swschrad · August 2003

are 4.0-SOHC cruise control cables and high-back seat pivot bolts. not sure if my seats qualify on the second one... the nhtsa.gov site was just putting up summaries of the recalls.

but if you have a real question, and you haven't been cussing your dealer service department roundly and loudly every time you go in, they can look 'em up by your VIN to see if there are any recalls against your truck.

nvbanker · August 2003

Sorry, didn't purposely ignore you, I have just never heard of such a thing happening, and I've got lots of these around me.

idntnvu · August 2003

didn't mean to sound so pissy in that last post, but I've posted questions before and never got any responses so I was just wondering if maybe my messages weren't showing up, seeing as how the powers that be got mad at me for changing user names, even though I had the blessing of one of the hosts and instructions on how to do so. Thought maybe revenge was the word of the day. Anyway, I know the cruise control unit breaking off from the wheel isn't part of the recall, it's dealing with the operation not the controls. I also found out by entering my VIN on Ford's website that I have a recall on my jumper harness and multifunction switch, whatever those are. The VIN check didn't indicate the seat and cruise recalls, but those may not be in there yet. I will get all of them checked out as soon as I can, which who knows when that will be with my work schedule. Again, I apologize for having "lofty standards for free advice," but I do think it would seem more friendly to respond even if you don't know anything about it. A friendly "sorry, don't know about that" would do. Think about someone completely new who comes in (and I've seen it happen multitudes of times all over Edmunds) asking for advice and everyone ignores them.

stever · August 2003

I think it's just that few people have experienced your problem. A Discussion Search for cruise control yields just 17 hits over the years, and 5 of those are in the last few days.

Steve, Host

idntnvu · August 2003

Thanks Steve, although my point was, I've asked questions prior to this one about other topics and gotten no responses either. Not trying to drag this out any longer, but I still think I'm being misunderstood. It does happen a lot though. I will kill that subject now. Lets move on. Sorry I brought it up.

cmartin411 · August 2003

Wanted to let everyone to purchase the extended warranty if you buy an Explorer. Mine has 30,000 miles on it, and will be getting a new rear differential on Monday. I have been hearing a whining noise from the rear for a couple of thousand miles. The service manager said it was common in the 2002-03s. Lucky for me this one happened before 36,000 miles.

nvbanker · August 2003

Interesting.....not had that problem either. 27,000 miles so far. Actually, this Mountaineer has given me practically no problems at all. Very satisfied with it. Would recommend it.

wijoco · August 2003

The "multifunction switch" would be your wiper/turnsignal stalk. If the cruise switch is part of that stalk, then you would be in luck.

kelly55 · August 2003

I had a very similar problem with my '96 Explorer two weeks ago. My car would go into reverse but would not go forward. What I found out was that one of the tire rods was broken. This is just one of many problems that I've experienced with my truck. Good Luck!

nvbanker · August 2003

Tie rod did that? I'm very surprised..... Never heard of that problem before.

donjuanmiguel · August 2003

I have heard a similar noise comming from the rear of my 02 XLT. Did you hear it during all driving conditions?

kelly55 · August 2003

No one including the mechanic who fixed the tire rod had see that happen before. When I first realized there was a problem I heard some grinding noise under the car. I only heard the noise when I first put the car in reverse. After that I drove the car and by that evening the car wouldn't go forward. The guy who towed the car said it could have been the front calipers so I guess that could also be the problem.

swschrad · August 2003

and the tie rod was a bonus calamity.

nvbanker · August 2003

Yeah, I would agree.

cmartin411 · August 2003

I can hear the humming noise when I'm going between 50-55 mph and about 1900 rpm when I gas it. When I lift, there's no noise. Tap the gas and it's back. The Ford Dealer told me it's louder when the differential is under strain. I can't hear it at 70 - maybe the wind noise drowns it out.

bioman3 · August 2003

After a pretty mean thunderstorm, my 99 XLT, 4.0 SOHC with 50K on the odometer began stalling after startup. If I kept my foot on the accelerator, I was able to drive the truck, but the idle was very low, about 350- 400 rpm at normal operating temperature. It drove normally, no missing, normal shift pattern and acceleration. The next morning the stalling at startup began again. This time since, I was in my garage, I took out my scan tool and found no error codes in the computer memory. I turned up the base idle screw, disconnected and re connected the negative battery cable, cleaned out the carbon from the throttle body and checked the upper intake manifold bolts for proper torque. When I re connected the scan tool the reading with the engine running were normal. The truck started up and kept running when I removed my foot from the accelerator. In fact, I had to turn down the base idle screw to get the truck to idle at 750-800 RPM in neutral. All seems well now, but are there any theories out there to explain this bizzare behavior? In the past I have driven the truck through monsoons and nothing happened. Could the water have caused the stalling? Is there a sensor getting ready to go? If nothing else, lets generate some interesting discussions!!

Thanks,

Bioman

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles