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Comments
However, the thing that brought my attention to the bad ball joints was not tire wear, but rather wandering, especially while driving on the highway. I recall getting out of the truck to check to make sure the lugs were all tightened properly while on our way up to northern Michigan. Our other 2000 Explorer that we leased had very tight steering, so I was concerned. I brought it to the dealer and they diagnosed what I had suspected. Truck drives so much better now, but like I mentioned the front end now clunks pretty badly. So, when I get a chance in a couple weeks while I am off of work, I will check out the stabilizer bar bushings and the upper ball joints to see if I can find the source of the noise.
To smooth out the ride I installed two Edelbrock shocks, in the front which I am very impressed with.
On another subject, the Explorer has the delayed reverse activation (a faulty solenoid no doubt) which I will probably get fixed the next time I take it in for a transmission fluid change.
Anyway, the delayed reverse and clucking aside, the Explorer has been a very good vehicle, without a doubt would purchase again.
I added it on to the financing, but I have 30 days to reneg if I so choose. I'm wavering.
Advice please?
I added it on to the financing, but I have 30 days to reneg if I so choose. I'm wavering.
That's kind of steep as far as price goes. But it's most likely because the vehicle is beyond the standard manufacturers warranty of 36,000 miles.
In my case, the extended warranty was well worth it. I got mine for about $800 before the mileage went over 36,000 miles. Within the next two years the ball joints went on it and the engine blew up. The warranty covered everything including the rental car ($30 per day) When the engine blew, I was without my Explorer for about 35 days and the rental feature helped quite a bit.
Of course that doesn't say much about Ford quality does it?
:-)
My exploder has wandered ever since I got it. It's always been kind of hard to keep in a straight line. A friend of mine drove it one day when we'd taken a trip out of town one day and he had to take over driving for me...he fought the thing all the way back trying to keep it in a straight line. I wonder if they were going bad then...which at that point it only had about 40k on it. Who knows. I had actually hoped to keep this thing a good while after I get it paid off, but I don't see that happening now. As soon as it's paid off, I'll be getting a Toyota or a Nissan.
I'm not judging all Fords bad because of this one. I like a lot of Ford products, and I'd probably buy another Ford eventually. The new Mustang is a must, and the F-150 is appealing as well. But from the looks of it, Toyota is catching my eye more and more with the current 4-runner, and the new Tacoma. But they're only hopes and dreams now, because I've still got 3.5 years on my loan for the Explorer. All I want now is for the thing to be fixed. It fits me like a comfortable shoe, which Fords tend to do with our family (my dad's 84 Mustang GT lasted him 18 years and 220k miles.) Just have to wait and see what happens I guess.
Now, to keep the Explorer running well I usually treat it to 30,000 miles transmission fluid and filter changes (and the same for the transfer case), and 6,000 miles synthetic oil changes, using replacement Wix oil filters. I also get the coolant flushed every 30,000 for a healthy cooling system, and I just changed the fuel filter for the second time. Thankfully, it is doing very well, and it must be said, knock on wood! Oh, and I almost forgot that I have also flushed the power steering, even though it was working fine, the fluid was burnt from the extreme heat these systems must deal with.
Once you get the ball joints replaced, take your truck back out for a drive, and if it still wanders be sure to check your tire pressure. If you haven't done those maintenance items that I have done, then maybe consider it. At the very least it wont hurt your truck, and at the most it may help you get many more years of reliable service out of it (which would be preferable)!
Keep in touch with the coolant loss, if you are still having that problem. I can look around, even though it has been a few years to see if there was coolant loss problems with that engine.
Another tip I forgot about. Try to make it automatic to fill up the gas when your truck is at 1/4 of a tank remaining. This will keep any sediment in the tank from getting sucked onto the prefilter and straining the fuel pump. Or worse, if the sediment gets past the prefilter, it can damage your fuel pump so much that it will need replacement if the prefilter continues to allow the sediments by. Some fuel pumps are more prone to this damage, but it is good to follow this as precautionary. Also that 1/4 tank of gas continues to cool the pump, and keeps it from getting hot which is also a fuel pump killer. Finally, don't purchase gas from a store that you see a tanker filling up the underground tanks. This process stirs up all those sediments that I was talking about. BTW, these aren't commands (DO THIS!!! DO THAT ETC!!!) just some ideas:)
best wishes,
Jrc
PS. It appears I'm still having intermittent starting problems, but I also let my Explorer run below 1/4 tank before filling up, so perhaps I may have damage the fuel pump as well? I've had the fuel filter changed previous. Also done the transmision fluid and filter changed, oil and filter changed every 5k, rotate tires every 5k. Change my own air filter when it looks dirty. I don't think I've been skimping or skipping on maintenence.
Also at 60 - 70 mph there's a really bad vibration, and dies off at about 72 mph then tries to come back on at about 85. I've had all the wheels balanced, and it still vibrates and wobbles. Oh and at 50 mph there's a weird vibration that seems to come from the rear end of the truck..
Can anyone give an insight into any of these noises..
You're saying that you put the tranny in gear and it won't drop in unless you bring the rpms up to 4000 rpm?
If so, it sounds like the stall speed on the torque converter has changed. I don't know how that could happen either unless the fins inside the TC are wearing down or some have broken off. If that's the case, then that might explain the vibration you're getting also...since the spinning TC is no longer balanced....not sure about that one though.
Another thought could be that the valve body needs to be cleaned/serviced/replaced. Being it such an old model, gunk could be building up inside the valvebody making things stick.
Just my thoughts
(MERECON) ever so often.
I haven't had the coolant leak problem any more, so who knows. I smelled antifreeze the other day, but couldn't find anything. I'll have them do a pressure test on it the next time I notice the resevoir low.
I try to take care of my vehicles. I've had just about all the maintenance mentioned in this forum done to it at the appropriate times.
I run Havoline and change it out every 5k. My dad doesn't seem too confident in the synthetic oils, and I guess that's spilled over to me as well, however I think I'd be more willing to try them than he is, but since it's had Havoline in it all this time, I'm not sure about changing it over suddenly.
As for the ball joints, it's been over 2 weeks and still nothing from the garage in regards to Costguard covering my repair. If I find out that they won't do it, I may take your advice and get the joints with grease fittings, and have a different garage install them. My grandfather uses a different garage than the rest of us, and he gets all sorts of work done for really cheap. The guy's work is pretty good, grandpa is always satisfied, so I'm gonna try him, that is if Costguard doesn't cover the work. If they do, I'm gonna take them for all they will give me.
If I recall correctly, I had to call the warranty company myself, and they told me what to do. Get the work done, pay in full, and then I had to send them a copy of the work order from the dealership. They then sent me a check covering 50% of the cost.
On synthetic oil:
The reason I use it, is because it does take longer to break down. While in many cases conventional oil does just fine, many times up 7,500 miles, I just can't let my cars go that long without thinking in my head that I am running my vehicles on anything short of black coffee, so for me it is just for peace of mind (darn mind costs me an extra 20 bucks an oil change :-0) This way, I have more time to find time to do oil changes.
The power steering flush that I did, was probably not the best. There is still some residual fluid in there that turned the new stuff a darker color (the new stuff is practically clear) and made it smell burnt again, but I figure I at least added some life to the fluid. I will most likely do it again in the summer. The reason I did it was because of how bad the fluid was, and because I hear more whining Ford and GM power steering pumps than I care to. Plus, I think that rack and pinion steering set ups are more sensitive to bad fluid than reciprocating ball, but that is just a personal opinion, there may be no fact backing that up.
I hope that your truck problems clear up.
Enjoy your weekend!
JRC
I recently posted about my rattley 94 Explorer that vibrates like one of those machines they use to in construction. Anyway my wife just called to say the oil warning light came on again, now this did this about 2 months ago. When she checked it the indicator was at the add more oil level.
Now considering the truck has 193,000 miles on it, and I know it's not burning oil, is there any other reason why I should be losing oil like I am.. I checked under the sump, and there was residual amounts of oil around the sump plug. Are Explorer's prone to sump plugs leaking ?
And as the transmission still hasn't improved, due to it revving at 3k rpm before going onto 2nd gear. Are there any vacuum hoses that could be the cause of the 1st to 2nd gear change problem ? Any help will be appreciated..
As far as "who knew"? Your owners manual advises against jumping your vehicle for this reason. You can blow every microprocessor in your car doing this. We tend to go ahead and do it anyway and most of the time we're ok, but in the event we hook up backwards, or hook onto a bad electrical circuit in the other car, we can really blow the other car up. I'd wish you good luck, but you don't have that kind of luck, it seems..... Sorry
Do you think the life of the battery may be shortened by this incident?
Very hard to say what may have happened to your battery, though probably nothing if your truck starts ok. You may want to stick a charger on it for a couple of hours just in case it took a big hit on the battery's charge. The only other thing that may have been damaged, is the alternator. Both the battery and alternator can be checked for free at Autozone. A good alternator runs at around 14 volts while running, and a good battery holds somewhere between 11 and 12 volts.
As for GM 6.2L and 6.5L Turbos, pure trash, though with stronger emphasis on the 6.2L. The step van had an Allison transmission in it, which was also bad. UGH! There is a fleet of about 6, 96 step vans, and all but the mine had the Allison transmission go out, mine just shifted very roughly.
Bond001:
You may have a point with the IAC valve. Seems like you posting about that brought back memories from the past when people were writing in here about "hard to start" and "poor idle" conditions.
Both of the Explorers that I am talking about (2000's) will both not starting when backed up a hill, and have less than a quarter of a tank of gas. I always have to roll to the bottom of my driveway to start the trucks. It hasn't happened in a while because the gas always stays above 3/4 or a tank. When I suggested to keep the gas level above 3/4 it was for the reasons mentioned. Cooling, keeps debris out of the pre-filter (and fuel line filter), and solves the no start condition some have when on an incline.
I don't claim that these are facts, just friendly suggestions that were passed on to me from various people I have talked to. They seem to make sense, but it's anyones guess. I do believe that it is a part of regular maintenance to change your fuel filters. When they build up crud and sediments in them over time, it causes a strain on your fuel pump, and will also decrease your gas mileage. Think of it as when you are blowing air through a straw. Bend the straw and it becomes much harder to push the air through. This strain causes heat, and will eventually get the best of your fuel pump.
Very true, but for some reason my 1999 Expedition does not seem to be as sensitive to this issue. However, like the rest of my vehicles, the gas in that rarely gets below a quarter tank.
That is what I am wondering. The 1996 Explorer I sold 3 years ago didn't have the start problem on a hill, but it did burn up a fuel pump at around 90,000mi, so that is why I am cautious.
I don't think this vehicle will make it to the end of the original warranty.
The first break down occurred with 57 miles on the odometer.
The second major breakdown occurred at 8,7000 and it involves many components that will continue to fail in chain.
Time to say :lemon:
Gonna get a new vehicle of some sort, just don't know which one yet.
By Thursday eve, they said they had just finished diagnostics??? Friday came, did not have time to finish it. No truck for Sat/Sunday. Monday I called, eventually ready at 4 .0pm. 5 days, understood it is a 90 minute job. Drove the truck home, about 3 miles. Not convinced it is any better. Though I did read somewhere the onboard computer/software will have to "Reset/find itself". Hope so. Will let you all know.
(4L2Z-7G391-AA BDY ASY-Trans) Flu Trans auto (Fluid).
Ps. I had 2 Brand New Jeeps GCL's before this, they both had clunky/clonky tranny's. Thought I was getting away from that.
Reg.
When putting it in gear, whether it be reverse or drive, the tranny would clunk.
From what I have read and heard about it, it is a normal sound for the Ford tranny. It never got any worse and it was never curable.
I looked into it when I first had it happen for fear that it was a universal joint loosening up....which has the same sound, but it turned out to be nothing.
Re, your comment about the little clunk/schmunk, not bothering you so far, I was the same “Hardly noticeable”. It was a slight clunk on engaging gear only. Though once running at say 50 mph, if I put my foot down, it did not seem to immediately respond.
This explorer runs 10 x's better then either Jeep I had, especially in the transmission dept.
Thanks guys for responding. I will report the results soon
Reg. for the holidays
E.D.
Has anyone compared the 2004 Durango and the 2002 ( or latter v8 Explorer ). My biggest concern with DC is their overall quality build and poor dealership support. Don't know if DC has cleaned up their act. My current 2002 v8 Explorer has been rock solid. We need a second SUV...so I am looking at both trucks.\Thanks
OTOH, I've had 5 Explorer/Mountaineers. Still have a 94 with 140,000 miles on it, and an 04. Never had a bad one - they've been the finest vehicles I've ever owned. I think they're the most perfect all around vehicles ever designed.
For something more specific, check the insurance rates. Asked my agent when I was quoted a high rate. Insurance was almost 15% higher for the Dakota than F150. Evidently you are buying an accordion.
Anyone.
Reg.