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also, anyone know about how much these cost?
thx
reg.
This door is a composite panel, made by a subcontractor who bid for the job. They did a lousy job. As soon as Ford discovered that the part was failing, they notified the sub, the panel was redesigned, or given to another manufacturer to make. New cars were made with the new panels, replacement panels were sent out for warranty work. This stuff happens to everybody, there's no way for Ford to know it's going to happen or to predict it. It's not even their fault. It's a good design. Mercedes uses composite panels for hoods and back doors, so why shouldn't Ford? It reduces weight and resists light dents. As long as they stand behind it, and step up, as they did, I didn't mind much.
Some things are unforgiveable for a car manufacturer IMO, this isn't one of them for me.
You know it's not only Ford, it's all the car compaies, but I am not as forgiving as you. I look at it like this-they (most car companies) have been making cars for over 100 years now (can you believe it!) they cost an average of 25 to 35K. I want it to be right. I had to take my '02 Explorer back THREE TIMES for a driver's door rattle. On the first two times they "adjusted" the handle. After the third time they ordered a new handle-PROBLEM SOLVED! I don't want to go through this exercise everytime something is wrong, just design right in the first place!
I've had the transmission rebuilt at 80,000 and ever since, the over drive doesn't work and the light on the dash blinks. Tranny fixers are having a bugger of a time figuring out how to fix it and think it's electrical - circuit that the transmission relies on is being drawn down by something else on the circuit. Does this sound possible? Anyone else ever see this problem? THANKS
What ever happened to BUILT FORD TOUGH,
or FORD has a better Idea?
It is VERY sad that the Big American Automaker that contibuted to the Industrial Revolution and started Industrial Mass Production in this country has gone so far down hill. Henry Ford would turn over in his grave if he could see all this. They have been building Rear Axles since the Model A and Model T and they never have such a rediculous problem as this. I am really sorry to see our American inudustry doing so poorly. I've got a 97 Explorer V8, I rebuilt the the rear axle myself when it had 100,000 miles on it. Put in new Pinion and Carrier Bearings and Bearing shims and Pinion seal. It has 133,000 mike on it now and runs perfectly smooth and quiet since I fixed it. I guess sometimes to get things right, you just have to do it yourself.
FORD---QUALITY IS JOB NONE!
Vehicle is less than 3 yrs old but has 38,600 miles. Have the replacements been covered under warranty when outside 36,000 mi?
By the way, I hope each of you had a wonderful Christmas, because I sure as heck didn't.
Costguard looks like an insurance plan from Protective - you may want to contact your state's division of insurance and ask them to investigate why your claim isn't covered.
Steve, Host
Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon
PR Director
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So, I called the mechanic and asked him what he thought about it. He said it's simply that Ford is making the things cheaper. He said he put a set in a 2003 Ford pickup last week that had 26k miles on it, and the owner wanted new tires because the tires had wore irregularly. Upon inspection, they saw the ball joints were bad, took it to the Ford dealer to have them replaced under warranty, and they wouldn't do it. They said "they aren't worn enough to replace them under the warranty." If Ford is going to cheaper materials on something as vital as ball joints, then you can count me out of ever owning another one. I know you say I shouldn't boycott Ford because of one bad vehicle, but I've seen and heard testimonies from numerous people with the same problem, and it is just what the mechanic said: Ford is making them cheaper to save a few bucks. All it'll take is a few people to die in accidents caused by faulty ball joints, and they'll have another Firestone sized lawsuit on their hands.
Now, for the light at the end of the tunnel. If I don't find something I think I can afford this weekend, or if I can't find a gracious dealer to pay off my Exploder, then I will get the repair done next week. I called around and got estimates today as well, and they ranged from $555 from "my" garage, to the one I'm actually going to use, who quoted $100 labor plus the cost of the parts. If I can get it done for less than 300 bucks I'll be happy.
Perhaps the state inspection agency should have a talk with Ford.
:-)
Yeah, like that'll happen.
Sorry to hear about your troubles. I'm a former Ford owner myself; 1980 Mercury Capri, 1987 Mustang, 1988 Bronco II, 1994 Ranger, 1997 Exploder.....2002 Acura
See a trend here?
:-)
My Acura dealer has treated me like a God....free loaner TL whenever I bring it in for it's scheduled service...54,000 miles and going strong.
Is there a reason why you want an SUV? You mentioned several other SUVs you were considering. The reason I ask is that vehicles with 4WD tend to have more mechanisms that can fail. More compicated tranny, transfer case, extra differential, locking hubs.
If you just need it for snowy weather perhaps you could consider a good used FWD car with traction control. (Nissan Maxima comes to mind) Slap on some Arctic Alpin snow tires and you're good to go. (I have two sets of rims...one with summer tires and one with winter tires, and I can swap them in under an hour)
Sorry, I'm digressing.
I've heard stories about some dealers who just clean an item and then give it back to the customer...placebo effect. They then collect the money from the warranty company.
Can you verify that the rear-end was changed?
Have you heard anything more about the recall you speak of. In May of '04 I had to pay 1/2 of an $850 rear-end bill (Ford, unbelievably, picked up the other half) and now there is a leak where the axel enters the pumpkin on the drivers side. Ford says it's about a $200 job to replace the axel seals and has nothing to do with the repair of the rear-end in May. Any advice or information would be much appreciated.
Jon
Sitting right next to it was a '99.5 Nissan Pathfinder LE, which only had 79k miles on it. It's fully loaded with leather, heated seats, Bose sound system, moonroof, etc. Price on it is $14,950. I didn't get to drive it tonight, but I'm going back on Saturday to do so and crunch some numbers.
I also looked at an '02 Pathfinder SE that had 35k miles on it, was a 5 speed which I think is pretty rare, and was $17,900. It was in the same network of dealerships as the '01 4Runner I drove, and the salesman said he could get any vehicle from any lot in their network brought to him for me to come and look at, drive, etc. So I'm going to check it out too, and see if they might could get it low enough to be in my price range as well. So, I'm shopping.
But, the old Explorer drove about the best it has in a long time on the way down here. I think it knows something is up. Normally it'll downshift on the slightest hill with the cruise control on, but it cruised just as easy never changing gears, even when I had to slow down to 60 and speed back up to 70. My gas mileage seems to be getting worse, I used to could get about 300 miles out of 3/4 of the tank (I always fill it up at 1/4 of a tank) but here lately it's been closer to 225. I've been smelling antifreeze pretty strong again so I know it's still leaking somewhere.
Do you know if I traded in a vehicle that I'd bought an extended warranty on but hadn't had it the full term of the warranty, would I get a refund for the remaining part of the warranty?
So what do you guys think? A 4Runner with 138k miles, or a Pathfinder with almost half the mileage?
I highly doubt there is any refund. The best you'll do is allow it to be transferrable...which "should" increase the trade in value.
So what do you guys think? A 4Runner with 138k miles, or a Pathfinder with almost half the mileage?
I would suggest spending the $20 or so and getting a carfax subscription. I think they last for about three months and you can plug in any cars VIN number to check it's history. A one-owner car would be a good sign.
Good luck on your hunt.
...yeah, it sounds like your Explorer is feeling the heat.
:-)
BALL JOINTS: The ball joint is designed to hold the suspension parts TIGHTLY with NO PLAY, the same as all other parts of the front end suspension system, including the struts and bushings. This is because the wheels are set at precise steering angles, and those angles must be maintained to assure maximum tire life and safety, even with very strong forces applied to them during accelerating and braking. Ball Joints are made of hardened steel, consisting of one part that is the ball with a threaded stem, that fits into a harden steel cup, a strong spring to hold the ball tight in the cup, has grease in it and sealed with a rubber seal. When new, it moves very stiffly and has no play. As the ball and cup receive normal wear, they remain tight to each other and have no play. As they get older and start to wear out, they begin to develop some play. With the vehicle raised up with front tires off the ground, there should be NO PLAY in ANY of the front end parts when the front of the front wheels are grasped and pulled together and then when they are pushed apart. Only the very SLIGHTEST amount of play should be detected at each wheel due to wheel bearing play. To check the Ball Joints, a jack has to be placed under the lower control arm close as possible to the wheel, raise the wheel off the ground, to "unload" pressure from the ball joints, then pry up on the wheel and at the ball joints to detect any play. ANY front end parts found to have ANY play should be replaced with new. The "acceptable amount of play" that is referred to in these post is a SAFETY ISSUE, meaning that the ball joint should be replaced before is actually FALLS APART. I maintain that there is NO ACCEPTABLE PLAY in the front end steering and suspension system for maintaining proper wear on the tires. Apparently FORD will allow your front end suspension system to get "loose" before they will fix it, as a safety issue, but I maintain that the BALL JOINTS and/or FRONT END PARTS are already worn out when they get to the point that they develop play.
REAR AXLES: Rear axles should normally operate quietly and reliably for the life of the vehicle. Only the very SLIGHTEST sound from a rear axle could be considered normal. Any sound from the rear axle that is noticeable or bothersome while driving is not normal. First thing to check is for the proper lubricant and to be sure it is filled to the proper level. There should be no sideways play at the pinion gear bearing (push/pull side to side where the driveshaft connects to the rear axle). Check Axle bearings on each side for play or noise. Other than that, there is nothing you can do without going inside the differential gears. Parts inside that can go bad or make noise are commonly the Carrier Bearings and the Pinion Bearings. When these bearings wear and become loose, they allow excessive play between the pinion gear and the Ring Gear (which is mounted on the Carrier), which most often creates the Whinning or Howling or Growling Sounds. Other parts may also fail, such as the spider gears and axle gears. It seems common at the Dealers to replace the defective axle with a new one, but often the problems reoccure. There seem to be a lot of failures with these axles. It would be helpful to know where most of the problems are occuring, whether in the bearings or in the gears. Those of you that are having these problems could perhaps inquire of details of the nature of the failure, and report your findings here.
Working or Vehicles should only be done by a qualified professional mechanic. Remember, Safety First.
After looking at the differential, it appears the rear wheel alignment should not be affected, IF they can replace the differential without removing any suspension parts. There are two adjustable tie bars for toe adjustment?
If the A frames or tie bars have to be unbolted, looks like an alignment check/adjustment would be required.
As for either of the Pathfinders, I'm not sure on them yet. I will find out more tomorrow, that is if I recover from the massive hangover I will more than likely have after tonight's new years party .
No codes on OTC, dealer calls Ford and they recommended replacing IAC valve instantly....am I glad that I bought the ESP with no deductible :-)
Still like the truck versatility, handling, decent gas mileage avg about 16 in the city and 21 on highway now (not bad for AWD)......just wish it could be rid of this little gremlin!
Happy New Year!!
I only drove a couple of 4Runners, didn't get to drive the Pathfinders. But from what I've read, the seats are more comfortable, and the Pathfinder has a more car-like ride, which I don't really care about, a truck's a truck, so I don't care how it rides. I had a Sidekick for cryin' out loud. The seats in the 4Runner just didn't suit me, and from what I've read, the '01 and up Pathfinders are the better ones, namely because of the 240 horse 3.5 liter engine. So, thats what I'll probably go with, one of these days. I'm gonna save up and also pay double payments on the Explorer so that when I do trade, I have a better chance of now owing more than it's worth. So for now, I'm still a Ford guy. What a shame too, because I got a bunch of Ford stickers proclaiming how proud I am to drive a genuine Ford product.
Unless Ford decides to step up and stop making their parts so cheap, it'll be a cold day in Palm Beach when I own another one. I know what you're gonna say to that (especially nvbanker), but I've talked to several mechanics now, and many other Ford owners, and it's not just Explorers. All Ford trucks with the exception of maybe the Escape, suffer from premature ball joint failure, and I don't care what Ford or anybody else says, the ball joint HAS failed when it develops play. Thats about where I'm at.
Anyway, hope ya'll had a good new years! I survived, but barely. I got food poisoning some how and spent the day in the bathroom. Happy New Year to me.
By the way, have you guys noticed any mistakes in your post that weren't in it when you clicked "post"? Several times over the past few days I've double checked my post before I submitted it, and when I read over it after it was posted, some of my words were missing. Hmmm.
That should definitely not be happening. As far as I know, there have been no other reports. If it happens again, send me or Steve a note indicating which post it was, time of day, what was missing and which browser you used.
tidester, host
Thanks
Can I fix this myself? I am a pseudo shade tree mechanic... I hate to shell out the $$ to have the car towed 15 miles to my dealer and then pay their high labor rates.
and you want to replace the central trigger switch yourself and need to ask questions about it.
hmmmmmmmm, I think the proper answer here is "stay the !!!!!! away from any orange wiring, the airbags, and associated cover products."
they keyword here is "orange"... anything orange in a modern car is airbag stuff. that's for mechanics with insurance that offer loaner cars IMHO.
unless, of course, you LIKE working with electric caps and explosives, in which case you could look around for training in the airbag system, say at a local vo-tech, because if you LIKE this, you also like not having the stuff blow up when you're holding it.
((( not planning on touching mine with a ten foot pole. )))
Thanks.
I noticed the other day that something in the front suspension (only) is making noise when compressed, such as when driving over speed bumps or dips in the road ('04 X, 13K). The system has not lost any functionality; she still rides great, handles fine around turns, and even when it's making the noise the shocks and springs do their job (no bottoming out or bouncing).
I'll run it by the dealer tomorrow or Tuesday to see what they make of it. I remember seeing on here somewhere that another guy had a similiar noise and it ended up being a loose bolt on some stabilizer or tie rod. Does anybody have any insights? It sounds, for lack of a better description, like a really worn out suspension; you know, creaking/groaning. Not very loud though.