Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

gregb5 · February 2005

I've got the same problem as you do with the Limited Slip Diff. It's been chattering slightly for awhile now. I took it to the dealer yesterday, and after a few feet of test drive, the tech told me they'd replace the diff under the extended warranty. Should be fixed next week.

bioman · February 2005

Have they checked out the EGR valve? If that is stuck or there is a problem with the vacuum line going to the EGR valve the car will idle rough and/or stall out. I had this problem, removed and cleaned the EGR valve and the issue was resolved.

erics2 · February 2005

HI- I have a 91 explorer xlt with about 156k on the engine. I recently have been having problems with a sudden loss of power while driving.This does not happen all of the time but seems to be progressing. It all Started out on a very cold morning (almost felt like a stuck choke) the engine seemed to run with out misfiring but seemed to not be getting enough air- (bogging)it also seems to be spewing out black carbon in the exhaust at times. This seemed to happen primarily on cold mornings until lately when it is becoming more frequent. I do not feel like I am burning oil the truck has a somewhat normal exaust other than the carbon(no strong burning oil odor or smoke)I also noticed if I shut it off and let the truck sit a few minutes after the bogging it will run fine for a while until it progressively runs worse again. Any ideas? clogged converter? bad egr valve? Please help!! Thanks-

bmr4 · February 2005

The Overdrive O/D light no longer lights up before starting, and is inoperable when the shift button is pressed (it will not downshift to third gear) but does shift from 3 to 4 under normal operation.
Is this the beginning of more woes?
Just replaced the mass air flow sensor-$287.00 due to K & N filter oil element fouling the sensor. K & N does not respond to my message, and my mechanic tells me there is a FORD bulletin that does not advise K & N for this reason.
Your reply much appreciated!

stever · February 2005

A few models come with K&N's installed, so it'd be interesting to see the Ford bulletin. Try the K&N Air Filters, bolt-on power? for more comments.

Steve, Host

subgun · February 2005

You may have a vacume leak driver side valve cover vacume tree also check hoses that come off there they may be broke ,some are little plastic things you can replace them with rubber. i had this problem plus i had a leaking modulator valve on the transmission letting trans oil to be sucked to this vacume tree making for slick a faulty hoses it kinda eats the rubber. Now this is the fun part every one will tell you that 91's do not have a modulator valve on the transmision but the auto zone and my mech. were wrong. so just check to see if these hoses are oily and spongy then if they are folow the one going to the trany if u have one have a mechanic replace it u have remove catalitic converter and it was a job. plus catalitic converter was pluged probably due to buning trans fuid. by the way if u have this problem check trans fluid level or u will get stuck somewere because your truck will not go in gear. good luck hope this helps

erics2 · February 2005

Thanks for the help, all of my vacuume hoses seem to be in order. I am also driving a 5 speed. Im not sure the tranny fluid is an issue. This has gotten to the point that I cant move it 50 feet without it running like crap and stalling. Again I wonder what the deal is with the black soot- This is something that has become progressively worse. It started on the coldest day this winter and went away for a few weeks. Now it has gotten much worse?

jo060 · February 2005

Hey, I own a 2004 Ford Explorer, and every time it hits about 3000rpm it will make a spooling noise like a turbo charger. The noise comes from the the passanger side which is also the side the intake is on under the hood.
I'm able to hear it with the AC on or off.
Any idea what this is?
Joe

wijoco · February 2005

Does it happen at all temperatures or only when cold?

wijoco · February 2005

If it's mainly occurring with the engine cold I would have a look at intake gaskets. Spray soapy water around the gaskets and the throttle body gaskets too and see if there is change or you see soap bubbles. Black smoke could be the PCm trying to overcompensate for the lean condition by dumping fuel. Mass air flow is giving it one reading, but the O2 sensors are a lot leaner.

wijoco · February 2005

O/D problem sounds like an electrical problem within the O/D switch circuit. If it's shifting into 4 OK, then it's not likely a mechanical problem.

I've heard a lot of things about oiled air filters in MAF-controlled cars, most of it bad.

bmr4 · February 2005

Thanks for your reply. I will keep an eye on it, and my teenagers easy on the gas!

equestrian1 · February 2005

1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer 4WD, automatic transmission. This just started Friday, car is in park, reverse out of parking spot, put in drive and it will not drive forward. After going back to reverse and back to drive a few times it drives normally. Also noticed that it will not creep forward after applying the brakes and letting them up. I have checked the transmission fluid and that is fine. It almost feels like the brake is on one front wheel. Any ideas? Thanks for your help.

ruppy70 · February 2005

I had a similar problem with an 83 F-150 in December of 04. The problem was an easy fix! Check for exhaust leaks especially around the header. In my case the header bold had fallen out and after I replaced it the truck ran much better and the noise was eliminated.

I think that the leak in the header allows cold air to enter back into the engine causing the diesel sounds.

Check Exhaust manifold and all exhaust in front of the catalic converter

If you have any questions e-mail me at ruppy70@hotmail.com

Don't waste your money on the other crap non of thoes things should cause your engine to make a disel sound.

davev · February 2005

I have an 02 XLT V8, and I have a few issues. The 4WD light keeps flashing on my dashboard, and when I try to engage the 4WD, it does not engage. I can engage 4Low, but not high.

Also, last snow storm, I noticed a flourescent yellow fluid on the snow when I moved it to shovel. It was on the snow where the rear end was. Anyone know what that might be?

jan-aruba · February 2005

Well it does it cold or warm,that doesn't matter.What could it be???

ragglass · February 2005

Took my 2002 Explorer-Eddie Bauer to the ford dealer on Friday, February 18, 2005 because of hesitation at 20-30 mph and then again at 40-50 mpg. Dealer called back to inform me that I had a transmission problem-the overdrive piston was rubbing on the case. There's only 35,821 on the vehicle, however I've have it for about 31/2 years. I'm waiting to see if the extended warranty I bought will cover the repair costs. I'm also trying to see if Ford will cover it.

nickp1 · February 2005

Where to start. I live in Australia and own a 96 LTD Explorer, which are a little unusual here.
It started to o/heat which became the transfer hose from water pump to thermostat, all fixed. Yesterday all good then suddenly after being parked started up and felt like running on 3 cyl. Usual checks found an excess of water from tail pipe, but none in oil, removed plugs and three from the left side all sooted up and the others all clean. Removed inj manifold, 3 inlets clear, 3 oily and sooted up (same side as fouled plugs.) Feels like it is over choking, but have the feeling it is more sinister. Could it be a blown intake manifold gasket or electrical....Help it is hard to get advise down under. I am greatful for any ideas. By the way I have more worries, but this one is major

nitromax · February 2005

The first thing I would do would be to check the compression of the cylinders....especially on the bad side. A blown head gasket could cause the same symptoms. Low compression will give you poor power. Water leaking into the combustion chamber would cause plug fouling and excess water in exhaust pipe.

Another thing to check is to make sure that all of the plugs are seeing a spark.

If it is the head gaskets,and you have to replace them, you should probably also have teh heads removed and have them magnafluxed to check for cracks.

Good luck and keep us updated!

lbaker · February 2005

I HAVE A 98 XLT WITH 127,000 MILES.STEERING MOANED FOR A COUPLE OF MONTHS, BUT WORKED FINE.TOOK THE TRUCK IN FOR A TUNE-UP, WHEN I GOT IT BACK, THE ENTIRE FRONT END/STEERING WHEEL"SHUDDERS"AT LOW SPEEDS, AS WELL AS HIGHWAY SPEEDS WHEN THE TRUCK HITS A BUMP.ANYONE ELSE WITH THIS PROBLEM, MECHANIC SAYS IT NEED A POWER STEERING PUMP AT A COST OF 330 DOLLARS

jim34 · February 2005

My 2002 explorer excellerates when I brake and come to a complete stop. Sometimes it excellerates a second before it completely stops.
Is there anyone else that has had this problem?
When I ease up on the brake the car returns to its normal idle speed.

dtownfb · March 2005

Check to make sure the carpet is not coverig one of the pedals. I had this happen to me when I had the plastic mats in for the winter months. They tend to slide and one time they slid so far up that it covered the accelerator pedal. Each time I hit the brake the car kept aceelerating.

neo2299 · March 2005

Hey, i'm new here so i'm sorry if this has been covered....
I have an 02 EXPL XLT 4.0 with 72k miles... I noticed the brakes were grinding pretty loud and took it into my local repair shop. They said the rotors were rusted and needed to be replaced with the brake pads on all four tires... has anyone else heard of this happening with such a new car? Everyone i've talked to thought 72k was real low for this kind of repair, please email me at: c.kidd1@comcast.net Thanks!

poljot · March 2005

HOLY SCHMOKES!
Thank you sooo much aubrnjohn...after changing too many parts myself, I finally found the (your) answer.
How about an easy one...is the pcv valve on '98 sohc v6 hidden under all that plastic (airbox-ventilator-fuel mixer-whateveritis)on top of the engine? can't see it and haynes manual doesn't show it.
my '91 navajo has it in plain view.

My '91 navajo(explorer sport) has 360k miles, a true champ and easy to work on...my '98 explorer has 122k and is a chump.

tidester · March 2005

please email me at: ****

Please keep the discussion here so everyone will benefit from the exchange. To do otherwise defeats the purpose of a message board.

And, welcome to edmunds.com!

tidester, host

explorerx4 · March 2005

72k out of a set of brakes is pretty good. i hope the brakes on my '02 last that many miles. my wife had a lightly driven car that needed them at 30k. based on the brake dust and that i could see the pads were worn down just by looking at the brakes, i wasn't suprised.

wijoco · March 2005

"Also, last snow storm, I noticed a flourescent yellow fluid on the snow when I moved it to shovel. It was on the snow where the rear end was. Anyone know what that might be? "

Your golden retriever is leaking???

wijoco · March 2005

I haven't heard of too many 3 year old vehicles with 72K miles! Pads and rotors at that mileage is not only reasonable, it's exceptionally good for modern Ford brakes. Be happy you havent gone through three or four sets by now!

rgers1 · March 2005

I brought my 1996 5.0 AWD Ecplorer in to check a fluid leak from the front diff breather hose. The estimate to fix was in excess of $900!!!!! Said it needed a new improved ($600) diff cover with differnet baffles to help the fluid loss. Anyone hear of this?!

nitromax · March 2005

I brought my 1996 5.0 AWD Ecplorer in to check a fluid leak from the front diff breather hose. The estimate to fix was in excess of $900!!!!! Said it needed a new improved ($600) diff cover with differnet baffles to help the fluid loss. Anyone hear of this?!

In my opinion, it sounds like a crock.

$300 labor to replace a differential cover?...that alone tells me that they're trying to pull a fast one on you.

Besides that, I have never heard of this "new" differential cover.

nickp1 · March 2005

Ok this is where i am at. Checked compression on all cylinders, running approx 120-130psi except for 2 which were at 30!!!!!
I removed the rocker cover and then turned over the engine and found my cam shaft is staying still. I would presume that there is a key way on the crank(as there seems to be a lot of tension still on the chain) which has sheered. My Question is this... It is on the right hand side of the car, where the timing chain is positioned against the firewall. This looks like a mongrel to fix or get too. Any tips, hints or advise? Believe me I need it.
Cheers

nitromax · March 2005

Ok this is where i am at. Checked compression on all cylinders, running approx 120-130psi except for 2 which were at 30!!!!!

ouch!

I removed the rocker cover and then turned over the engine and found my cam shaft is staying still. I would presume that there is a key way on the crank(as there seems to be a lot of tension still on the chain) which has sheered. My Question is this... It is on the right hand side of the car, where the timing chain is positioned against the firewall. This looks like a mongrel to fix or get too. Any tips, hints or advise? Believe me I need it.

Well, at least you're finding problems. There's nothing worse then doing a bunch of diagnostic work only to find nothing wrong.

You won't get true compression readings if the cam and crank are not both turning.

The timing chain has sheared but there's still tension on the chain or on the crank?

Too many scenarios to list without more info.

I used to turn my engine over by hand by using a large socket right on the crankshaft nut. It will allow you to listen and feel your engine as it rotates the crank and moves the pistons up and down.

robertc004 · March 2005

I have the same problem as this owner in 2001, but mine didnt occure till 2005. The Headlights and fog lamps on my 1995 ford explorer just stopped working. All fuses and power distribution box have been checked and are o.k. I can turn on my high beams as long as I hold the flash switch but they turn off if I let go of the flash switch. My next step is the switch or the multi-function switch both of which are a pain to remove. Has anyone encountered this problem?

hjsimpson · March 2005

The same exact scenario happened to me the last snow storm. I wasnt sure what the fluorescent yellow liquid was either. Do you have a burning smell when you shut the engine off? I called the service department and they told me it was coolant. He explained to me that Ford uses yellow instead of green coolant. I am still not sure if I should trust that answer... I have a 02 XLT V6..

wijoco · March 2005

I won't say the price is unreasonable, because that may very well the the dealer cost of the part and it may require a lot of teardown to install it. But I would look for other solutions before I spent $1000 to repair a leak. A good machinist can probably come up with a creative solution to slow or stop the leak. It's not a moving part, so there's a little room for "jury rigging" It only has to do 2 things: 1.Allow air to escape and re-enter 2.Not leak!

skdoyle1 · March 2005

Hello,
I have a 2000 exp xlt v6 and when I put it into 4wd low once to get out of the snow, the check engine light came out. It's able to get out of 4wd low, high, and into auto fine. No apparent problems. I took it to autozone, but they couldn't read the codes. So I bought a code reader from pep boys and still couldn't read the codes. I know the code reader was fine becuase it connected to my other car and read codes. So how do I start to diagnose the issue without the obd readouts? Is there another place to plug a obd reader other than the drivers seat? And what would cause the obd port to not work?

Thanks
Shawn

wijoco · March 2005

Yes, multifunction switches were a big problem on 90s Ford products. Also check the first connector off the switch wire loom as the clips tended to break and the connector starts to unplug itself.

wijoco · March 2005

If you were cycling a lot of coolant through the cylinders you may have hydrolocked something and torn up the timing gear. The cam chain gear was a real weak point on the DOHC engine. If you find major problems, you might be better off selling it for parts and buying a local Aussie brand that will be less expensive to repair. Before you start looking at parts for that V-6 let me say, you don't wanna know how much. Sorry.

nickp1 · March 2005

Unfortunately I know what parts are worth here.
Here is a summary. Front right wheel bearing $950.00. Set of shocks (self leveling)$5176.00.
Replacement motor with 147,000kms $4500.00
I think they are ripping us off down here!!
Anyway, i do really enjoy my explorer (when it is going) and being a LTD with full option I cant get anything here that matches it. So it is now a labour of love. Out of interest is the Limited edition, the same as the Eddie Bauer????
We dont have them here, and I see many references to them on certain forums. Keep you posted on my progress. Cheers

jrc346 · March 2005

I had the same problem with a 96 Explorer Sport I sold a couple of years ago. All of the sudden there was a leak from the passenger side of the engine compartment. I took the truck to a local transmission place where they topped off the differential and then took the breather hose and bent it in half, keeping it bent with a zip-tie. Worked great!

nickp1 · March 2005

Gidday all. An update as to my woes.
The cassette on the timing chain (rear) has let go and under advisement from my Ford dealer on the Gold Coast is that the engine needs to be removed to fix it. So is it easier to remove the engine with trans still on or off. I have found another engine with 45000kms on it identical to mine for 3500k so I figure I may as well repower with a lot newer than my old one. What do you think. All the help is appreciated.
See ya from Aus....Nick

rspana · March 2005

I'm currently in San Diego and wife is in Hawaii. She called and told me she couldn't start truck (lights & radio still worked). A friend looked at it and said it was battery. They got a new battery and installed it but know there is no power at all. Is there anything special that needs to be done when you replace batteries for these SUVs like a reset switch or special fuse. I Can't look at it so I am looking for some expert help.

jds4218 · March 2005

My 98 Explorer V6 with 101K miles has started having the driver side door lock sticking recently. Sometimes it will take pushing the unlock button 5 or 6 times when trying to get out. When trying to unlock from outside with the remote, you can just about forget it somedays. Anyone had similar problems? It seems to be sticking to me but ??. How and where should I try to lubricate this mechanism, and is graphite spray the best product. I am not sure about things like WD40.

nitromax · March 2005

Gidday all. An update as to my woes.
The cassette on the timing chain (rear) has let go and under advisement from my Ford dealer on the Gold Coast is that the engine needs to be removed to fix it. So is it easier to remove the engine with trans still on or off. I have found another engine with 45000kms on it identical to mine for 3500k so I figure I may as well repower with a lot newer than my old one. What do you think. All the help is appreciated.
See ya from Aus....Nick

I have pulled engines out both ways (with and without tranny)and, to be honest, they both have their + and -....I have never pulled this type of engine though so I would suggest "the less you have to disconnect, the better off you are"

Taking the tranny out with the engine is easier when it comes to disconnecting the engine from the tranny because you can do it out in the open....however, you will have more fluid to drain and more things to disconnect and reconnect when you are finished. AND having the engine and tranny out at the same time can be very cumbersome.

Leaving the tranny in is a little more "elbow grease" intensive when it comes to disconnecting and reconnecting the engine to the tranny, but your area of reconnection is more focused.

Remember, double check and triple check everything.

and good luck!

:-)

wijoco · March 2005

Do yourself a huge favor and make sure the transplant motor has the updated timing chain gear. If not, have every available updated piece installed before you install the engine. Otherwise, you'll be doing the same work before it hits 100,000.

wijoco · March 2005

No, there is something wrong besides the battery. Start by checking the main ground cable bolts, then go from there.

wijoco · March 2005

You can try any lubricants you want, but what you describe is more often than not the actuator motor itself. Good news is they're not that expensive, bad news is that installing them is.

curtisg · March 2005

hi,
I have the exact same problem happening now. I ohmed out the headlight sw after I pulled it out, and it checks out good. I jumpered around the switch and the lights worked, then put the switch back on the connector and it worked fine for a night's driving, but now quit again. I have had lots of problems with my turn signals working intermitently, and so I think the problem is most likely in the column multiswitch. I'm looking at the Chilton version of the wiring schematic and looks like the flash-to-pass (pulling back on the turnsignal lever) will work independent of the main headlight sw, but the actual dimmer sw won't (pushing forward on the lever). This is what's happening with mine.

So if the red/yel wire from the main headlight sw to the dimmer sw (multifunction sw) is disconnected or cut, the low beams and high beams won't work. I need to check to see if the red/blk wire to the fuse panel (fuses 4 &8) have power.

inetquestion · March 2005

Specs: 1998, 4.0, SOHC

I notice this noise slightly all the time. There is a slight hiss, but I'm unable to determine the source. It becomes much more noticable when I change the position (accelerate or decelerate) of the gas pedal on a smooth section of hi-way. It also does the same thing when the cruise control is active. This was actually my first suspect, but it is able to maintain constant speed, so I've kinda rulled this out. The noise almost sounds like its coming from inside the car possibly on the passenger side underneath the dash, but this is mere speculation on my part. It sounds vaguely like a leaking damper that has to equalize itself once the state changes. Again, more speculation on my part.

Anyone have any clues what is causing this?

TIA,

Inet

inetquestion · March 2005

Specs: 1998, 4.0, SOHC, and a really frustrated driver!

Is there any way to get this plug wire off without ripping it out. I can touch it, but do not have the leverage needed to remove the stuck boot. It doesn't appear that there is anything capable of being removed that will allow great access. I'm assuming there must be a tool I'm missing or just some good ole tricks of the trade.

TIA,

-Inet

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