Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

stever · March 2005

Try Got a Quick, Technical Question? too.

Steve, Host

tamwhatam · March 2005

My 2000 Explorer xlt started doing this months ago. Now it is so loud, that people turn and stare and the "creak" in the steering wheel is driving me nuts. Did you figure out what your problem was? When I took it to the shop when this first started they told me I was imagining the problem......

nelfarra · March 2005

hi

what are the symptoms of a dying battery on an explorer ?

I've got the original motorcraft maintenance free battery.

When I come to start it, it doesnt start at all the first time or two, not even a clicking sound to indicating that the switch has been turned on. Then when it starts it starts up just fine

Is this a sign of a dying battery ?

thanks

nitromax · March 2005

When I come to start it, it doesnt start at all the first time or two, not even a clicking sound to indicating that the switch has been turned on. Then when it starts it starts up just fine

So eventually it does crank over? fast crank? slow crank?

I have experienced someting similar to what you are speaking of. It was a faulty (sticking) starter relay. I could go out and whack it with a wrench and then the car would start up fine.
:-)

If it is your relay, and your original starting system is old (battery, starter relay/solenoid), I would suggest replacing both at the same time.
I've tried doing either one or the other on their own in the past and I always ended up having to replace the other one with it. (They seem to wear in together and once one gets replaced, it takes a toll on the other one....which ends up failing shortly afterwards)

But you don't need to replace them both...just a suggestion.

skdoyle1 · March 2005

Bunmp. Can someone please help me out?!?!?

stever · March 2005

I'd go back to Pep (or another autoparts store that does free readouts, like AutoZone) and see if they can connect to your port and read any codes.

Steve, Host

97xltbeep · March 2005

Hello,

I have a 97 AWD XLT 5.0L / 82000 miles.
I was driving around last night when the check engine light came on. Took it to the dealer this morning and was told I needed catalytic converters and was quoted $3100 for parts and labor.
Does that sound right, or is it way overpriced? Do I have less expensive alternatives -- assuming that it is indeed the cats that are causing the light to come on. How many converters are there on the truck anyway? I thought there was just one.

Any input will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.

whatsachevy · March 2005

'03 NBX V-8 Auto LS 4X4 - While changing the oil, noticed the coolant level was about 2 inches below the cold fill range on the coolant reservoir. Didn't see any signs of water/anti-freeze in the used oil. Went to top it off and noticed this thick white/light brown residue built up in the reservoir bottle. I didn't want to circulate this crud into the cooling system so I didn't top it off and decided to take it into the dealer. Guess what? This is normal for all Ford vehicles to have this build up in the cooling system. Also, two inches below the stamped cold fill range on the reservoir bottle is supposedly also normal. Has anyone else noticed this build up in the coolant reservoir? I only have 15K on this vehicle and find it hard to believe that this is normal. My '01 Chevy truck with 45K is as clear as the day I got it.

tidester · March 2005

Do a Google search on catalytic convertors and I think you'll find substantially lower prices.

tidester, host

wijoco · March 2005

$3100 is the dealer's way of saying they don't want to the work. What was the code, by the way? It's unlikely all the catalytic converters have failed. How many converters does the truck have?

wijoco · March 2005

Did you buy it used? My guess is there's a leak and someone tried to stop it with a stop-leak product. the story your dealer gave you about the residue and the dropping coolant level is bull.

censming · March 2005

I've recently purchased an 04 explorer xls 4dr. v6. The first problem that occurred is the abs light came on and stayed on. While that happened the 4x4 high started to flash. After a few minutes the 4x4 high stopped flashing but the abs light stayed on. This is every trip long or short. Also once I was parked on a hill facing down and I hit my brakes and the pedal hit the floor and the abs started to pulsate the brakes on and off (but no light) and when I got moving again the light came on. The next problem I'm having is a rough idle. Try to start and it doesn't want to. It will turn over and almost flood out and finally start really hard like its missing. Then tonight was really bad I was cruising at about 70 and the pos decided to shut off. I wouldn't have noticed as soon if it weren't for the security light came on. Please help before I bring this horrible vehicle to the dealership. I'm not going to put up with a vehicle that cant run or stop like its intended to and end up killing me, my wife or someone else.

nickp1 · March 2005

I too had the same problem, try and get your fingers on either side if the boot and squeeze the hell out of it and agitate as much as you can.
I promise you you, you will sweat, and curse but it should eventually move. Mine took around 20 mins. But it came off. You may want to remove your heater hoses as they are bolted to the side of the head(a cable tie would hold them but ford decided to use 3 bolts!) this will give you a little more room.
Mine is a RHD so if there may be descrepences.
All the best Nick

jrc346 · March 2005

I agree with wijoco on the dealer. Extremely high price, and probably not the problem. I would check O2 sensors first as they give out the code which indicate "poor/low catalytic converter efficiency." The cheapest thing that you could do is nothing. Keep the air filter clean, and the fuel filter changed, and if your gas mileage and performance don't drop off a cliff, I would say you are ok.

Big killers of Cats
1. Misfires
2. Poor maintenance
a. Dirty air filter
b. Dirty fuel filter
c. Old Plugs or wires.
3. Am I missing Any?

whatsachevy · March 2005

I purchased this Explorer new 12/03 for my wife. It has only got a little over 15K on it. I had already been soured on Ford products enough to buy a Chevy truck in '01 (I had owned nothing but Fords since my '75 Monte Carlo prior to purchasing an '01 2500HD), but she insisted on the Explorer. I can't seem to post my problems as fast as the vehicle can find something else to go wrong. Today, while she was driving along, it just quit running. She had to pull over on the side of the road. It did start back up, but this thing is really testing my patience. Maybe its Ford's way of retaliation for me switching to Chevy. I didn't buy their story of this crap in the coolant reservoir, but I am maticulous when it comes to maintenance (anything I can do - I just don't trust mechanics that I don't know) and there has never been any stop-leak in the cooling system. I didn't know if Ford was using some cheap coolant, but I have never had anything like this in the coolant reservoir. My truck has just over 45K, almost 4 years, and the reservoir is as clear and clean as the day I got it (Chevy does use the red Dex-Cool coolant). I know I've got some time left on the original warranty, but I am trying to convince her that we should get rid of it while we can still get as much as possible out of it. I am trying to talk her into a crew cab Chevy 1500 or possibly even a Tundra. I am having trouble justifying the additional $5K or $6K for an SUV over a truck.

bmoyers1 · March 2005

I have an '00 Explorer Limited 4X4 , with trailer towing pkg. and Michelin XLT M/S tires. The ride is absolute awful; any old 1930's farm truck rides better this vehicle! It is so harsh you feel every imperfection in the pavement; it slams you from side to side with a diagonal crossing of little dip or bump. On a wash board gravel road, speeds must be less than 20 mph or get hammered inside. On a newly paved freeway section, it's just fine, but look out for any older roads!

Could there be a major problem with the suspension in this particular car? We all know Explorer ride quality is poor, but this seems extreme. Does anyone have any ideas how to fix improve it,...other than just trade it for something else?

Thanks for any input. I've about had it with this vehicle.

97xltbeep · March 2005

I did not get a code. All I got was a piece of paper that said I needed new catalytic converters, no details. I should have probably asked just so I can go have it scanned somwhere else and compare...Now it's too late as I reset the PCM. The light hasn't come back on -- yet.
I did some research on the I-net and found out that this particular model has three convertors -- two in the front, one in the back. The prices are around $150 each for the front ones, and $300 for the rear one...not anywhere close to what I was quoted.

97xltbeep · March 2005

Thanks for the reply.
That's what I suspected too...so I reset the PCM. So far the light hasn't come back on.
I replaced the air filter about 7 months ago. The truck doesn't get driven much and when it does it's mostly city driving. But I'll take a look at the filter anyway.
I'll take your advice on the fuel filter though, and perhaps some new plugs will help too.
Surprisingly enough the gas mileage is OK, 14/17 -- and I believe that's OK for this truck.

kmack · March 2005

'01 Explorer Sport (2wd), Clutch and slave cyl. replaced approx. 20k miles ago. Last week, won't go into gear if started in nuetral. Can start in gear, but can't get out of gear. No pressure in the pedal. Pulled tranny, clutch/pressure plate in good shape, no abnormal signs of wear. Have replaced slave and master cyl with new. Still no pressure in pedal. Bled system 4 times with a pressure bleeder. Throwout bearing moves about a 1/4" now. Still not enough to disengage clutch. With 10 lbs of pressure from bleeder, system works better, but not on its own.
I'm at a loss with no other ideas. Can't afford to take it to a dealer or tranny shop, but must have the vehicle running by end of this week. Any ideas? Anybody experience this before?

stever · March 2005

Try asking in the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion too.

Steve, Host

chuck1 · March 2005

I would first of all check the suspension. There are some makers of shocks that really give a harsh ride. KYB-is one that is really too tight for American tastes. Also, check the tire pressure. The Michelin tires, unless they are severely over inflated, should not give the ride you describe. I assume you just purchased the vehicle, did you run a carfax and put it on a rack for inspection?

sonyadee · March 2005

I bought a 99 explorer xlt it has cassette and cd player (factory). I can put a cd in and it will play if the motor hasn't been running. If i want to play another cd while driving, it will just start this clicking sound and then spit the cd back out. It is the sohc engine 6 cylinder. I usually have to change the cd at night and wait til the morning to listen. Please give advice and/or solution.

frenchpearson · March 2005

I have a 97 ford expl. eddie baurer I was hearing a loud humming sound while driving and if I slow down the noise will slow down but once I step on the gas then it will stoop until it start back up again. I took it to the dealer and they told me it was the transfer case and it had to be replaced along with ball joints and other things but the transfer case will be $2800 and to get the rest of the work done will be almost $6000 to get the car back running right. Do you think it is work fixing

ssfcu · March 2005

I have a 2002 Ford Explorer that once it hits 2400+ RPM I get that diesel sound or marble sound for about 400 RPM and disapers once the transmission shifts. Was that the same with your 83 F-150?

bmoyers1 · March 2005

Chuck1- Actually I bought this Explorer brand new, but I rarely drive it (my wife puts on most of the miles) but when I do drive it for any length of time, I'm always swearing I'm gonna sell the lumbering beast. I keep wondering if somebody at the factory slipped in rear springs that were supposed to be for the F350 line, or similiar. I can't visually detect any problems, but I'm no expert. I was primarily writing to see if this is a problem others have had, and if anyone had any experience with after-market suspension fixes that improved the ride.

Thanks for your input... bmoyers1

jcat707 · March 2005

Lately my friend has been having problems with here remotes to her car. Sometimes when she goes to press one of the buttons, it doesn't work and takes several presses until the car will finally respond. It used to happen occasionally but now it happens more frequently, like at least once a day. At first she thought that that it may be the battery in that particular remote so she switched to the other remote which brought the same results. Is it possible that both of the remote batteries are bad or is something wrong with the car. It's an 03 Explorer so the car isn't really that old. I would hope that the remote batteries would last more than about 18 months.

jodar96 · March 2005

I am about to buy an 03 XLT sport V-6 with 33K miles that was put in service in Nov 2002. Where can I get the extended warranty, how much does it cost, how many miles do they cover, and what do they cover. My concern is the rear axle.

Thanks,
Joe

chuck1 · March 2005

You can purchase anytime just before your 36,000 miles runs out. I purchased mine at www.fordwarrantys.com
I purchased the "BaseCare" which is really a "powertrain warranty" and it covers other things as well. This would include the poorly designed rear end. I bought On 12/30/04 for $755.00. It covers me until 75,000 miles or 60 months. There are several plans to choose from!
Hope this helps!

tommyblue1 · March 2005

Hi All,
I have an 02 Mercury Mountaineer and the RSS has stop working. I can turn it on in all the gear but R then it turns off. any ideals?
Thanks

jodar96 · March 2005

Chuck1, thanks for the warranty info. I ended up buying the 2003 XLT Sport 4x4 V-6. It has 33K miles, and on the 250 mile trip back home, doing 70-75mph, it got 20.8 mpg. For its size, it is not bad. My wife's 2001 RX300 2WD gets about 24.

I could not hear anything unusual from the rear axle. Do you, Explorer owners, expect the rear end whine show up later? or if does not have it by now, it won't have it later?

Does anyone know how to drain the transmission fluid? There is a hex plug in the center of the pan. Our Camry and RX300 both have idetntical plugs where I have drained the fluid before.

The Ford service advisor told me that the plug is used to fill the transmisson!!! Fill plug at the bottom of the pan?! I hate it when they do not provide dipsticks, and call the trany maintenance free and sealed. Any time you have gears, fluid, and heat, you must be able to change the filter and fluid.

With all the negative comments about the new body style Explorer, I decided to buy one. A lot people complained about Dodge Caravan too. Our 97 with 153K miles was one of the best vehicles.

benderofbows · March 2005

There is a dipstick but it is hidden, I beleive on the right (passenger) side of the tranny... I'll have to check, anyone else know?

They call it "sealed for life" (100 or 150K if I remember) but then again they'll recommend you flush it way before then I'm sure...

xtremesport · March 2005

I have a 01 Explorer Sport and it only has about 22k miles on it. The other day i was driving in 4x4 high becuase of the snow. I stopped at a store and turned it off to make parking easier. When i left and tried to turn it back on I could hear the relay swicth but my indicator light on the dash dosent come on and i can tell it isnt in 4x4 high. dosent work in 4x4 low either. Someone Please give me some advice on what exactly im dealing with, if i need to take it to the dealer or what. Any comment appreciated.

Robert.wiley@ellsworth.af.mil

coltpeyt · March 2005

Thanks for the reply. My lawsuit (lemon law) against Ford is continuing, and hopefully we will come to resolution ASAP. The transmission continues to slip and jerk, and the front-end pulls harder then ever to the left upon acceleration.

Can you imagine if this case makes it to trial, and they put me on the stand to testify that Ford's Service Manager said there was nothing to be done for the front drive tires pulling - other then I needed to hold on tight to the steering wheel... Now that's real concern for Passenger safety FORD!

Anything you might have regarding the Explorer service letters would be appreciated.

Regards,

kxweil38 · March 2005

Does anyone know where I can find a diagram for a 2004 V-8 engine on a Mountaineer?

chuck1 · March 2005

My dealer told me to change the fluid at 30K. I reluctantly agreed to do so. It did shift better afterwards. I am no fan of dealers, however, with this transmission and the ford spec fluid, I suggest you do change the fluid at around 30K and let the dealer perform the service.

colin3 · March 2005

i'd planned on making a trip to see family this weekend for easter - but today the overdrive light kept blinking - denoting a problem with the transmission - - any idea what the problem could be? could it just be a transmission fluid problem? or am i going to have to cancel my trip?

when i accelerate - at around 25 mph - it drops a gear - and the rpms shoot up - then immediately - goes drops back down and shifts back up

i'd appreciate any and all advice
thank you

jrc346 · March 2005

I think I may have a solution for you. I live in Michigan, and well, the roads here are CRAP! My wife drives a 2000 Explorer Limited as well, and she likes it very much, however I agree with you that the ride in them is rather rough. So, about a year ago I ordered some Edelbrock shocks from an online store, and it rides SO much better now. The little road imperfections that used to unsettle the beast, now get soaked up. Note however, that I only replaced the front shocks, the back shocks have the air assist, so I left them alone. Big potholes still cause a ruckus, but at least that is more rare.

They were relatively easy to change, and if you decide to do them yourself, be sure to spray penetrating oil generously on all 3 bolts a day or two before you tackle the job. Should come apart pretty easy.

Another suggestion for improving the ride, is to go to adjustable swaybar end links. Haven't done this myself, because the ones I ordered were the wrong size. Haven't had a chance to follow up and try again.

Old tires get harder as they age, so this in conjunction with over-inflation, can make for a pretty bad ride as well.

The best of luck to you!

chuck1 · March 2005

You didn't say what year your Explorer is. If it's an '02 on up-you could have the solenoid problem reported here by many. At any rate, your transmission sounds like it's in a "limp mode" and needs attention. I would have the Explorer looked at, and rent a car for your trip.

cdfexp · March 2005

Had truck for almost 2 yrs now, tried different gas, just changes the tint of the smell. Dealer say only use regular. I have notice with this promblem, it seems to go away in the winter, well at least it doesn't show its nasty smell as much. so the weather is starting to break, and what do you know the 2 nices day there was the smell. Windows open, or closed get the smell, YES IT IS stronger windows open. I can cause the smell purposely sometimes by hard acceleration, or long acceleration. Help the smell at times makes me dizzy!

dealer changed one of the cats not both after about 5 or so visits

cdfexp · March 2005

The check engine light has done this twice.
COME ON AT THE BEGINNING OF THE WEEK AND BY THE TIME I AM GOING TO STOP BY THE SHOP IT GOES OFF!!

I THOUGHT IT WAS SUPPOSED TO STAY ON UNTIL RESET!

THIS LAS TIME I DID GET BY AUTO ZONE IN TIME FOR THEM TO PUT THE COMPUTER ON IT AND GIVE ME A CODE, THE CODE SAID LARGE EXHAUST LEAK!! BUT NOW THE LIGHT IS OFF DEALER SAYS NOTHING CAN DO!

webmyzer · March 2005

I don't know if any has replied to you yet, but your exact situation happen to my 97 Explorer XL. I found a transfer case at a trust worthy parts yard for $600 with 55k miles on it (Ford wanted $2,500 plus labor to put new one in). I also happen to need Ball joints (Due to failed inspection). I installed the transfer case and ball joints for $700............The ball joint press I rented from Auto Zone for $100, and returned it........

weber

renna · March 2005

I have a '02 mountaineer with 50k miles. I too have had hard, shuddering shifts at about 35 mph and 50 mph. Dealer said it needs a new "redesigned" transmission clutch solenoid pak. cost $480. Has anyone had this done and dose it fix the problem? Is this price about right? Must a ford dealer do this, or could a local shop do it cheaper? Are there any recalls on this? Anyone out there with this problem should get it fixed before your warranty runs out!

jm230016 · March 2005

i found that those symptoms usually point to the throttle position sensor

fmc12 · March 2005

I am considering purchasing a certified pre owned 02 Explorer XLT,4wd,V8,leather,6 disc,side airbags,tow pkg,backup alarm,no 3rd seat.As part of the certification process,tires and brakes replaced and powertrain warranty up to 75k.The Explorer has been in service since jan 02 and has 47k.It is listed as a manufacturers car,was titled in texas,no lease or daily rental.it is clean as new,the Ford dealer won't go lower than $16,500.What kind of mileage can I expect ?

wijoco · March 2005

Yes, the solenoid pack generally does fix the problems you're describing. That price is probably not out of line for the job. I personally wouldn't have it done at an independant shop, unless it's a transmission specialist.

wijoco · March 2005

The light doesn't have to on to be read. Anytime a malfunction light is lit on the dash, a code is stored in memory and can be retrieved with the proper code reader, unless the battery is diconnected. And there is no Ford code for "large exhaust leak". Tell the AZ employee you want the numerical code and not his interpretation of it.

chuck1 · March 2005

What does certified mean? If tires and brakes are less than a certain measurement, they are replaced-period! If the tires are new - certified or not, they would not be replaced. So I am afraid you are getting a bunch of bull in regards to "certified". And is it "Ford certified" or "Dealer Certified". There is a big difference between the two. Your gas mpg will be as follows:
City- no more than 14 mpg
Hwy- (depending on speed) 19 to 20. If you drive more than 80mph it drops real fast!

bmoyers1 · March 2005

jrc346--

Thanks so much for the info. I'll definately check into some different shocks based on your experience. I don't have air assist in the rear, so I will probably consider replacing all four shocks with something softer. Thanks again for the tip; I'll go to the Edelbrock website to see what ever else I can learn.

bmoyers1

einzigal · March 2005

The "check engine" light came on in my Eddie Bauer Explorer (comes on regularly about every month like clockwork). Well, I took it to my local Ford dealership and they said that it needed new upper and lower intake manifold gaskets...to the tune of about $380. Sheeesshhhh. Well, picked the car up and a few days later I noticed a "tapping" sound in the engine AND...YEP...the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT came on AGAIN!!!! Took it back out there and they said a hose was loose, so they tightened it at no charge and then said that the tapping noise was due to the baffles in the intake manifold being loose...
Now, that's pretty suspect to me, seeing how they just worked on the manifold days ago. Wonder how the baffles got loose??? Do you know anything about these baffles?? I told them not to mess with fixing it, because I was going to have to think about this one....I think it is related to them doing a poor job on the manifold work, but I don't know about the work involved or if it would have affected the baffles....They told me it wouldn't hurt anything to drive it like this, hmmmmm, should I trust them?

stever · March 2005

Hi Einzigal, welcome to Edmunds. You can get a free second opinion from lots of auto parts stores (like AutoZone) - they'll read the CEL codes and you can compare them to what the dealer says.

Your most recent check engine light codes were probably cleared by the dealer but it may still be worth a shot checking.

Steve, Host

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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