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Comments
Steve, Host
what are the symptoms of a dying battery on an explorer ?
I've got the original motorcraft maintenance free battery.
When I come to start it, it doesnt start at all the first time or two, not even a clicking sound to indicating that the switch has been turned on. Then when it starts it starts up just fine
Is this a sign of a dying battery ?
thanks
So eventually it does crank over? fast crank? slow crank?
I have experienced someting similar to what you are speaking of. It was a faulty (sticking) starter relay. I could go out and whack it with a wrench and then the car would start up fine.
:-)
If it is your relay, and your original starting system is old (battery, starter relay/solenoid), I would suggest replacing both at the same time.
I've tried doing either one or the other on their own in the past and I always ended up having to replace the other one with it. (They seem to wear in together and once one gets replaced, it takes a toll on the other one....which ends up failing shortly afterwards)
But you don't need to replace them both...just a suggestion.
Steve, Host
I have a 97 AWD XLT 5.0L / 82000 miles.
I was driving around last night when the check engine light came on. Took it to the dealer this morning and was told I needed catalytic converters and was quoted $3100 for parts and labor.
Does that sound right, or is it way overpriced? Do I have less expensive alternatives -- assuming that it is indeed the cats that are causing the light to come on. How many converters are there on the truck anyway? I thought there was just one.
Any input will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
tidester, host
I promise you you, you will sweat, and curse but it should eventually move. Mine took around 20 mins. But it came off. You may want to remove your heater hoses as they are bolted to the side of the head(a cable tie would hold them but ford decided to use 3 bolts!) this will give you a little more room.
Mine is a RHD so if there may be descrepences.
All the best Nick
Big killers of Cats
1. Misfires
2. Poor maintenance
a. Dirty air filter
b. Dirty fuel filter
c. Old Plugs or wires.
3. Am I missing Any?
Could there be a major problem with the suspension in this particular car? We all know Explorer ride quality is poor, but this seems extreme. Does anyone have any ideas how to fix improve it,...other than just trade it for something else?
Thanks for any input. I've about had it with this vehicle.
I did some research on the I-net and found out that this particular model has three convertors -- two in the front, one in the back. The prices are around $150 each for the front ones, and $300 for the rear one...not anywhere close to what I was quoted.
That's what I suspected too...so I reset the PCM. So far the light hasn't come back on.
I replaced the air filter about 7 months ago. The truck doesn't get driven much and when it does it's mostly city driving. But I'll take a look at the filter anyway.
I'll take your advice on the fuel filter though, and perhaps some new plugs will help too.
Surprisingly enough the gas mileage is OK, 14/17 -- and I believe that's OK for this truck.
I'm at a loss with no other ideas. Can't afford to take it to a dealer or tranny shop, but must have the vehicle running by end of this week. Any ideas? Anybody experience this before?
Steve, Host
Thanks for your input... bmoyers1
Thanks,
Joe
I purchased the "BaseCare" which is really a "powertrain warranty" and it covers other things as well. This would include the poorly designed rear end. I bought On 12/30/04 for $755.00. It covers me until 75,000 miles or 60 months. There are several plans to choose from!
Hope this helps!
I have an 02 Mercury Mountaineer and the RSS has stop working. I can turn it on in all the gear but R then it turns off. any ideals?
Thanks
I could not hear anything unusual from the rear axle. Do you, Explorer owners, expect the rear end whine show up later? or if does not have it by now, it won't have it later?
Does anyone know how to drain the transmission fluid? There is a hex plug in the center of the pan. Our Camry and RX300 both have idetntical plugs where I have drained the fluid before.
The Ford service advisor told me that the plug is used to fill the transmisson!!! Fill plug at the bottom of the pan?! I hate it when they do not provide dipsticks, and call the trany maintenance free and sealed. Any time you have gears, fluid, and heat, you must be able to change the filter and fluid.
With all the negative comments about the new body style Explorer, I decided to buy one. A lot people complained about Dodge Caravan too. Our 97 with 153K miles was one of the best vehicles.
They call it "sealed for life" (100 or 150K if I remember) but then again they'll recommend you flush it way before then I'm sure...
Robert.wiley@ellsworth.af.mil
Can you imagine if this case makes it to trial, and they put me on the stand to testify that Ford's Service Manager said there was nothing to be done for the front drive tires pulling - other then I needed to hold on tight to the steering wheel... Now that's real concern for Passenger safety FORD!
Anything you might have regarding the Explorer service letters would be appreciated.
Regards,
when i accelerate - at around 25 mph - it drops a gear - and the rpms shoot up - then immediately - goes drops back down and shifts back up
i'd appreciate any and all advice
thank you
They were relatively easy to change, and if you decide to do them yourself, be sure to spray penetrating oil generously on all 3 bolts a day or two before you tackle the job. Should come apart pretty easy.
Another suggestion for improving the ride, is to go to adjustable swaybar end links. Haven't done this myself, because the ones I ordered were the wrong size. Haven't had a chance to follow up and try again.
Old tires get harder as they age, so this in conjunction with over-inflation, can make for a pretty bad ride as well.
The best of luck to you!
dealer changed one of the cats not both after about 5 or so visits
COME ON AT THE BEGINNING OF THE WEEK AND BY THE TIME I AM GOING TO STOP BY THE SHOP IT GOES OFF!!
I THOUGHT IT WAS SUPPOSED TO STAY ON UNTIL RESET!
THIS LAS TIME I DID GET BY AUTO ZONE IN TIME FOR THEM TO PUT THE COMPUTER ON IT AND GIVE ME A CODE, THE CODE SAID LARGE EXHAUST LEAK!! BUT NOW THE LIGHT IS OFF DEALER SAYS NOTHING CAN DO!
weber
City- no more than 14 mpg
Hwy- (depending on speed) 19 to 20. If you drive more than 80mph it drops real fast!
Thanks so much for the info. I'll definately check into some different shocks based on your experience. I don't have air assist in the rear, so I will probably consider replacing all four shocks with something softer. Thanks again for the tip; I'll go to the Edelbrock website to see what ever else I can learn.
bmoyers1
Now, that's pretty suspect to me, seeing how they just worked on the manifold days ago. Wonder how the baffles got loose??? Do you know anything about these baffles?? I told them not to mess with fixing it, because I was going to have to think about this one....I think it is related to them doing a poor job on the manifold work, but I don't know about the work involved or if it would have affected the baffles....They told me it wouldn't hurt anything to drive it like this, hmmmmm, should I trust them?
Your most recent check engine light codes were probably cleared by the dealer but it may still be worth a shot checking.
Steve, Host