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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • gt350swgt350sw Member Posts: 1
    clunking??......check balljoints, universal joints, and radius arm bushings. Shocks for $900 sounds like a total ripoff. Why pay for a dealerships high overhead for something that only takes a couple of hours to do. Buy a repair book for about $15, buy a set of tools from craftsmen (<$200), buy a hydraulic jack and jackstands from Walmart ($35), buy a set of the best shocks (<$150), read the book and take the remainder of the estimate ($~500) and put it away for a rainey day.
  • rennarenna Member Posts: 7
    i did have the solenoid pack replaced, and it did fix the problem. this seems to be a very common problem. it would be nice if ford took some responsibility for this defect.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    " it would be nice if ford took some responsibility for this defect."

    The solenoid pack fails, because the incorrect transmission fluid was installed at the factory on a large group of transmissions. If they catch the affected transmission in time, and put in an additive that changes the chemistry of the transmission fluid, the solenoid will not fail, but if they don't catch it in time, it will fail, and will require replacement, which they will then do.

    What about this feels like Ford isn't accepting responsibility for the problem?
  • rennarenna Member Posts: 7
    I paid $480.00 to replace the solenoid pack. they said there is no recall or warranty coverage for this problem. and they said they have done a bunch of them. i don't see them accepting any responsibility. am i missing something?
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    How many miles on the vehicle? Did you check these boards first? I have been OUTSPOKEN on the extended warranty for these SUVs. Also, while there has not been a recall, these solenoids have been a common problem. Depending on the miles on the vehicle, you MAY have been ble to get a least a partial payment from Ford and this.
  • bpwrightwvbpwrightwv Member Posts: 17
    Sounds like the idle air control valve. As it's name implies, this part is reponsible for keeping the engine going while at idle.
    It is very easy to replace, and very inexpensive to try.
    Find a forum like fordtruck, or similar, do a search for idle air control valve, and there will be instructions for replacing it. It should be located right on top of the engine compartment, has one or two bolts, one electical connection. I replaced my wife's on her 98 Explorer b/c it was getting stuck open and sounded like a fog horn. Cost was about $60 for the part.
    About 6 months earlier, I had the same part on my ford car replaced by ford (before I knew what was causing this) at a cost of $200
  • bpwrightwvbpwrightwv Member Posts: 17
    After the work is done, don't you still have to have the error codes 'cleared'?
  • mattchzzmattchzz Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Explorer XLT 4WD. I had some trouble with the front end feeling like it was binding when I would back up. I found out that this was being caused by a speed sensor now that the speed sensor has been fixed it has a whine that changes with the speed of the car. I did not have the whine until I picked the car up from the shop. I took it back and have been told that they are unrelated. My question is could the diff or any of the drivtrain be damaged when the sesors are replaced that would cause a noise?
  • natestricknatestrick Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 explorer limited and it is doing the same thing it has 92k miles on it where did u find that solenoid and its location i wouldnt mind installing it myself Please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
  • rroettgerrroettger Member Posts: 1
    We have a 1999 explorer which has its normal share of problems. Recently the interior and courtesy lights will come on and stay on without any action on our part. Initially it happened only if we locked the vehicle with the switch at the rear gate. Locking with the remote seemed to solve the problem. In the past week they have started to come on however the vehicle is locked. If we press the remote locking, the lights go off but come back on again in an intermittent pattern. Currently they come on for varying lenghth of time, shutting themselves off after a few minutes, only to come back on a minute or two later.

    This vehicle does not seem to have a fuse that covers only the interior lights, or I would leave them off.

    A second issue that may or may not be related is that the daytime running lights have ceased to function entirely. This was first noticed a few months ago.
  • makai1976makai1976 Member Posts: 1
    So I'm curious what happened with this. I also have a 93 Explorer and I can shed a little info into what happened: the alarm module (in the back, on the left side) got wet. (My leak came from the window above, but definitely exactly the same result...twice waking up me (and my neighbors) when it rained at 3am. The first time it blew my horn out. The second time I pulled the horn fuse in time, but even though it's dried out, it now just goes off every time you open the doors (even when it's unlocked). I'd like to just disable the alarm system completely so I can put my horn fuse back in (And there's nothing valuable ever in my car anyway). Any ideas?
  • creekcreek Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact problem, though not quite as frequently. Did you ever find a fix?
    Thanks
    ECV
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Sounds like you have a failing sensor at one of the doors or rear window that is sensing open, when it should sense the door or window is actually closed. This will turn those lights on. If the tolerances are too close, a change in temperature will do this, ie; when the car cools off, the switch will open up, turning the lights on, which can explain the overnight phenomenon. The key will be to isolate the offending door or see if it's the liftgate or liftgate glass sensor, and replace it. How you do that, can be tough, but if you find it in the faulted condition, you can start opening and closing one door or the window at a time, until they go off, and you may locate it that way.
  • tommygunn701tommygunn701 Member Posts: 1
    My 1996 Ford Explorer has blown the 15 volt fuse associated with trailer/abs and a couple other functions in the main fuse box twice. The problem was brought to my attention by the battery dummy light on my instrument panel flickering occasionally. I also have had some major problems with my factory trailer light wiring. As the yellow wire snapped right at the back of the 4 prong connector I replaced the plug, all associated wires never worked again. I checked all wires as far back as the relay in the inside rear compartment hatch (where the jack is stored) and determined the relay was good but there was no juice reaching this relay, determining the problem was in the wiring up from the rear. After hours of ruling out other problems, ie all fuses good, all other systems okay, I have come to two solutions. The first is to make this someone elses problem and get charged mightly by a dealership, or re-rig the trailer light kit from the working tailights to bypass the faulty circuit, however I don't like knowing my ABS associated fuse keeps blowing as I may need the old pulse in an emergency stop. Any suggestions!!??
  • david58david58 Member Posts: 1
    What "large group of transmissions" is affected? My own is an early 2002 (built May, 2001) 2WD V-8, and is exhibiting rough shifting at 45,000 miles.
  • wayne73wayne73 Member Posts: 1
    bmoyers,

    this exact same problem just occured w/ my 2003 explorer eddie bauer, i took it to the dealership and they are telling me the engine is "warped" and is completely shot, my car is at 37,000 miles only 1,000 miles past warrenty and there telling me that ford won't cover any of the price for a either a crate engine, rebuilt engine, or a salvage motor..... what should i do....get in contact w/ a lemon attortney ?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Well, it wouldn't be yours - it's late 2003-early 2004 models, the 5 speed french built automatic.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    That one I'd trade in, but what in the world will cause that to happen? I've never heard of this before?
  • qwertflqwertfl Member Posts: 2
    Ohhh the irony. The air conditioner will work on occasion when its hot outside but this is rare. The air temperature (when working) is fine. I also noticed that it works fine on a cool day. Could there be a problem with the compressor? Is there some sort of temperature gauge that has gone haywire?

    Thanks for reading!
    - J
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You did not give enough information. What Year, What Engine? Does it keeps blowing air, just sometimes not cold? Raise your hood and see if the compressor is engaged and turning. The belt goes around the outside parts, so that it turns all the time. Look at the center part. It should turn if it is engaged "on". Tell us if the clutch is staying on. If the clutch does stay on all the time the the A/C is on MAX COOL, HIGH BLOWER, and it does not cool well, you have to put a set of gauges on it and read the pressures on the low side and high side. This should only be done by someone who knows what they are doing! When it is cooling good at idle, the Low side should be about 25 to 30 lbs, and the high side should be about 200 to 235 lbs. If the pressures are wrong, the refrigerant charge is likely off, maybe leaked out some, and will need to be repaired and serviced. When adding refrigerant NEVER allow the high side to go over 250 lbs. Check airflow through the radiator and the radiatior fan clutch to be sure is draws plenty of air through the radiator.
    Hope that helps,
    E.D.
  • madijomadijo Member Posts: 30
    I believe that the lemon law is only good during the first 12 months 12k miles. I would suggest using the Dispute Resolution Board. You can find the info in the rear of your owners manual. You must have good records or paperwork and remember you get further using honey. I had a 2002 Mountaineer bought back in 2004 using this method.
    It was because Ford and the Board did resolve the issue that I purchased another Ford product. ">
  • kburrowskburrows Member Posts: 1
    Weber,

    I just bought a 97 with 111k miles. It started doing the same thing. The dealer wants $2063 out the door for a new transfer case. This is too much for me. Could you email me and let me know how you did yours. I have the haynes book on the truck and I am very good with tools and fixing things. Had dirt bikes and have worked on my 140 hp johnson outboard. I would rather have someone else do it but cannot spend 2000 on the job. Can a local 4x4 truck repair shop do the work ok? or does it have to be someone that is trained on Fords? please give me an email.
    kevinpaula@arilion.com
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    There are complete parts kits on the internet - $200 to $300 depending on model and whether you buy a new chain. The awd types can get pricey if you have one of those as they have a fluid clutch to engage the front axle, and that is pricey if you replace it.

    If you subscribe to alldatadiy.com you will have access to detailed repair instructions, torque specs, etc. Some special tools required - gear pullers, snap ring pliers, and some others. About 250 ft lbs of torque on the output shaft nut is required, so access to more than a 3/8 drive socket set will be needed.

    You might also check the wrecking yards, and pull one out of a rollover. Check around for prices, I think you will find this will cost near the same price as the parts kit. I now get most of the expensive stuff out of the junk yards for my 99.

    And finally, I cannot remember the name of the place online, but you can order a rebuilt one with warranty for $600 to $800 or so.

    You need to know the model of your transfer case for all this of course. You will be able to do that when you research parts kits and rebuilts online - some of the sites have info to help you with this. Twisting your own wrenches can definitely save you some money on this one.
  • sophia79sophia79 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98' Ford Explorer XLT, and my back window windshield wipers have stopped working. When I turn them on, I can hear a motorized sound, like it is trying to move,but it doesn't. Does anyone know what the problem may be??
  • sophia79sophia79 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98' ford explorer, and I currently have the factory cd/tape/radio stereo installed. The problem I have is that the light doesn't work,so I have to guess which radio station, or what cd # is playing. Occasionally, the light would pop on for about 10 minutes,then it fades out,is there a possible shortage in the wiring?? Can someone please tell what the problem may be?
  • edesio_junioredesio_junior Member Posts: 1
    I used to have the same problem, just spray some wd-40 in to the hinge will solve the problem
  • jlgcrescendojlgcrescendo Member Posts: 1
    If anyone finds out anything about this, let me know. My drivers sear in my 2002 Explorer Eddie Bauer rocks back and forth slightly... like a rocking chair. The dealer kind of blew me off... said he thinks it's the motor in the electric seat. Can someone tell me anything more? :confuse:
  • texaswendtexaswend Member Posts: 1
    My driver's seat started doing this a few months ago. It got worse and worse for a while but hasn't changed recently. I looked under the seat and noticed that part of the linkage on the left side has come loose. There is a 3 inch link with a 1/2 inch diameter hole that slides over a shaft that extends from left to right under the front of the seat and connects to the motor. The other end of the link attaches to the seat rail. It appears to have been press fit to the shaft but has come off. I don't know yet what it will take to fix it. I don't think it has anything to do with the motor itself. I am thinking about either having the link welded to the shaft or drilling and tapping a hole in the end of the shaft so I can bolt the link back to the shaft.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    I can tell you my 2002 just started to do the same thing. It's a "very slight" movement right now, I am wondering if it's going to get worse. If it does, my "basic care" warranty won't take care of this problem. My Explorer is out of the "factory warranty". BTW, I don't know if you could call it broken.(Maybe it's in the process of breaking!) I would go back to the dealer and argue it's a potential liability and safety issue...that's about all you can do!
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    I bought an 03 with V-6 4x4 with 34K miles. Also bought the extended warranty for powertrain to 5 years/75K miles.

    I am very happy with the Explorer. No rear axle whine, and no bad transmission shifting. As soon as I bought it, took it to the dealer to take care of a whine which was a bad left front wheel bearing. It also had a bad rear axle to drive shaft seal. Both were replaced under warranty. When I bought it, clocked the gas mileage while driving 70 ( occasionally 75), it got 20.8 mpg.

    Drove it on a long trip the other day, and stayed with 70mph and it got 21.33mpg. On another trip, pulled a pop up camper and it got 16-17mpg.

    This Explorer is exactly what I was looking for. It don't think. Explorer is one of those most refined SUV's out there, but for its looks and room, it meets my needs.

    I don't know why 03 Explorer doesn't have low gas light, but it has " loose gas cap" light !!

    Joe
  • carlpcarlp Member Posts: 1
    I'm going to ask a foolish question. I'm new to the explorer and need to know where to find the modulator valve on a 93 Explorer
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    The transmission vacuum modulator valve is on the right side of the case (passenger side) behind a heat shield, that protects it from the heat of the catalytic converters that are very close to the right side of the transmission. It is difficult to see without a good light and a mirror. To work on it, you need to have the car jacked up and the vehicle cold, or you can burn your hands trying to reach it.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. :)
  • fjweldingfjwelding Member Posts: 5
    My SUV went to the service dealer because it didn't start. Tha car is two years old & 26,000 mile. All of the sudden the dealer call me to inform that the problem is in the engine and the warranty didn't cover the repair because apparently the car didn't had enough oil changes as needed.
    I gave the dealer all receipt of about 6 change of oil from certified local shops. They still refusing repair my car and are asking me 3,000.00 dollars for the repairs. Is THERE ANY WAY I CAN CONTACT FORD WARRANTY DEPARTMENT DIRECTLY? Does any of you have a previous experience with a situation like this?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    While you're waiting for a reply here you may want to post your question in the Warranty Claims Administration discussion.

    Good luck!

    tidester, host
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    I can't believe that they are denying your claim. If you have six receipts for oil changes you are covered. I don't know what state you are in, but here in California that would be handled in "small claims" court. Here's what I would do. Send the dealer and Ford Motor a certified letter stating the facts as you see it. Then if they don't act, get the car fixed and sue them in small claims. If you have to sue them, they will probably cough up the money after you serve papers. This will avoid a court appearance. This is too bad that Ford is generating all this "bad will" over (unless we are missing something here) a $3,000.00 warranty claim!
  • ladycladyc Member Posts: 1
    I NEED HELP!!!!! I have a 1992 explorer automatic transmission. The trans was rebulid last year and now that the warranty is gone the problems have started. It actslike its in neutral. I can get it into gear but once I shift again it just acts like its in neutral. If anyone has anys answers please let me know

    Ladyc
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Ladyc, I do indeed feel so very sorry for you, as I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I have posted many times on here for several years about how bad these transmissions are. Please see post #3696, where I again summarize what I think of the 1991 to 1994 Ford Explorer Transmissions. The transmission you have is called an A4LD, which means AUTOMATIC 4 SPEED LIGHT DUTY, and I do mean LIGHT DUTY. I wish I had better news for you, as I have built several of those transmissions and I know they went through a boatload of changes during those 4 years, they are very difficult to rebuild properly, requiring many hard parts, new thrust washers, new torque convetor, through cleaning of the oil cooler and lines, close scrutiny of every little part and attention to every detail, much more so that the "average" transmission. I would advise anyone who wants to repair their transmission in a 1991 to 1994 Ford Explorer (only one transmission and engine was avaliable at that time) to take their vehicle to only a highly recommended shop that can provide a longer term warranty, or get a remanufactured transmission from a National Remanufacturing Company such as Jasper.
    I think the best bet is to get a 1996 or newer Explorer with the V8, as it has the strong 4R70W transmission behind it. Both the 5.0 L V8 engine and the 4R70W tranmission have proven to be strong and reliable for years. I have a 1997 and a 2000, both with V8 and they run perfect with no problem. I could not be happier! Unless of course, I could get 25mpg around town! But of course, I can dream!
    Sorry for your misfortune, wish you well.
    E.D.
  • rennarenna Member Posts: 7
    yes, your transmission probably is affected. i have an early 2002 mountaineer with 50,000 miles,and i just had my solenoid pack replaced. it did fix the shifting problem. considering the small amount of people on this web site as opposed to all of the owners out there, this must be a huge problem.
  • kenmattkenmatt Member Posts: 1
    Last Friday we took our 2000 Explorer (XLS, 4.0L, 2WD, 77K miles) up to the mountains for Memorial Day. The weather was hot (90 degrees) and the climb pretty steady. After about 20 minutes of driving the O/D Light started flashing. I stopped and read the Owner's Manual and all it said was there was a problem with the transmission and to see a dealer. Anyway, it ran fine so we completed our journey with the light flashing. Today (Memorial Day) on the way home it ran fine and the light stayed off until just before home (1.5 hour drive), then the light started flashing and it felt like it slipped between 2nd and 3rd gear. Today was much cooler and most of the trip was downhill.

    Any idea what's going on in there?
  • deloughrigedeloughrige Member Posts: 1
    My large back seat will no longer fold down. The release levers will no longer release the fold down catch. I have no problem with the single back seat. Don't know if cables are stretched or some other problem. I need the extra room. I'd appreciate any help with this problem. Thanks :cry:
  • nitromaxnitromax Member Posts: 640
    Last Friday we took our 2000 Explorer (XLS, 4.0L, 2WD, 77K miles) up to the mountains for Memorial Day. The weather was hot (90 degrees) and the climb pretty steady. After about 20 minutes of driving the O/D Light started flashing. I stopped and read the Owner's Manual and all it said was there was a problem with the transmission and to see a dealer. Anyway, it ran fine so we completed our journey with the light flashing. Today (Memorial Day) on the way home it ran fine and the light stayed off until just before home (1.5 hour drive), then the light started flashing and it felt like it slipped between 2nd and 3rd gear. Today was much cooler and most of the trip was downhill.

    Any idea what's going on in there?


    I'm not too familiar with the newer Ford trannys but It sounds like the clutch plates are slipping.
    I had a similar problemn with an older Ford automatic back in the late 80's. It did the same thing...as the tranny got hotter (from driving) the tranny would slip more. Mine was so bad that it would be in gear and not even move. If I let it cool down , it was driveable...but only until it heated up again.

    Check your fluid first...is there enough? what color is it? (it should be red? at least older Ford autos used the red stuff)
  • ejgabeejgabe Member Posts: 9
    My '98 Explorer (with 90K miles) has been making a rattling/clucking/sqeaking noise on the front end. It is very noticable at lower speeds when going over bumbs. I am being told that the control arm bushing need to be replaced and that is a common problem with Explorers. Has anyone else had this problem or have any suggestions. Thanks.
  • slankerslanker Member Posts: 1
    I have an 01 sport trac doing the same thing off and on and has for 6 months. The light does not always come on when acting up. Does your engine light come on as well? I have only found another story of this that cured problem with a new solonoid body in transmission(part # 4l2z-7g391-aa). Let me know what fixes yours and I will do the same. This transmission is electronically controlled shifting. I have religiously changed fluid every 15k and took my pan off to verify no debris before taking it to the dealer to avoid a jump to conclusion needs a rebuild.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    Ladyc, I do indeed feel so very sorry for you, as I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I have posted many times on here for several years about how bad these transmissions are.

    She said she had the tranny rebuilt a year ago. It would appear (unless there is abuse here) that the rebuild was bad--not the transmission. If the rebuild was done properly, it would have gone a lot longer than a year, no matter how bad you say they are....
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    "She said she had the tranny rebuilt a year ago. It would appear (unless there is abuse here) that the rebuild was bad--not the transmission. If the rebuild was done properly, it would have gone a lot longer than a year, no matter how bad you say they are.... "

    Yes....Exactly my point. My former post indicated the criticalness of rebuilding the tranny right, or it will not work for long. The point I made about how bad they are is twofold.
    First, is the inheirent weakness of the design, with so my design flaws, they made many production changes from 1991 to 1994, first changing the band from the double wrap to the single wrap, changing clutch drums, planetaries, pump and thrust washers. They were full of weaknesses, and are a big part of tranny shops bread and butter.
    Second, is the critical need to have everything exactly perfect in the tranny. You can't just let a part "slide " or "get by" because it looks ok, it must be critically examined, and measured, to be as good as new or else replace it. These trannys typically require so many new hard parts, that they typically need to be REMANUFACTURED with almost all new parts. Throwing them together with a set of soft parts and a few thrust washers will usually result in what Ladyc got, a failed transmission after a relatively short period of time. AND once it fails again, it must be completely redone over again, as everything is contaminated and ruined, meaning another new or rebuilt torque converter, cleaning and flushing the cooler and lines, tearing in down completely again and checking everything to the very last detail.
    As I said, I built several of these, and I have delt with others who have built them. These trannys can hold up if they are used for light duty only, but the idea of a SUV built on a light truck frame is for service heavier than light duty. Myself, I drive rather hard and agressive, so they do not hold up well for me. An easygoing driver may have better luck with them. However, once they start to have problems, easygoing or not, they will eventually self distruct.
    For those of you that are not familiar with transmissions, let me say that all transmissions are NOT created equal. They are like cars, some are better than others. Each has their own unique qualities, strengths and weaknesses. A good transmission technician know these qualities, and knows what to look for in a particular tranny, if he is experienced with that particular tranny.
    Again, good luck,
    E.D.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    So-does this person have anything she can do? It's obviously a bad rebuild.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    She did not say where she got it rebuilt at, but did say the warranty is expired. That doesn't leave too many options open. It's best to take it back where she had it rebuilt and see what they have to say, then go from there. They may be nice enough to rebuild it again at a discounted price, or she may have to shop around again, but I'd definitely ask around for a better warrenty. One year is pretty much standard, but there may be longer ones available. I don't deal with the retail shops very much, so someone else may know of places with better warrenties.
    E.D.
  • littleroylittleroy Member Posts: 1
    I'm with you on the "whistling". I had a 2004 Mountaineer and it started making this noise about a month after I had it. The noise is definitely coming from the rear of the vehicle on the left side. I have had it in many many times over the past 2 years and each time they fix something else, but it never really gets fixed. My wife and I upgraded to a 2005 Mercury Mountaineer Premier last week and today it started whistling also. Does anyone know what the heck this is and how it can be fixed? I'm so tempted to take it back and tell the dealer to keep it. All my respect for Ford/Mercury/Lincoln is slipping...
  • jkohnmanjkohnman Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    I've got a 1997 Explorer XLT with 140,000 miles. I think the transmission is going, but some of the things it's doing make me wonder. In the mornings it's usually okay, except when I accelarate hard, then it kind of jerks a bit, almost like it's missing, but once I get to speed it's okay. In the evenings (where the heavy LA traffic is) it does the same. If I turn on the Air Conditioner, it does not was to 'take off' from a light, but once I get up to 25-30 I can feel a surge of power in the truck, and I really take off from there fine. I really feels to me like the engine while working is having a problem with a load or something. After a couple of weeks of this, the other day the check engine light came on. It usually goes into gear when I start the car, but sometimes theres a delay before it engages (which is why I think at least part of this is transmission?)
    Anyone have any ideas of anything OTHER than transmission that could cause this?

    Thanks a bunch!
    Jim
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You did not mention what engine you have, and that is important, because that would tell us what kind of transmission you have. If you have the V6 SOHC engine, you have the 5 speed automatic and if you have the V8, you have the 4 speed automatic (4R70W). You also give us no service history. Is all the engine and transmission maintenance kept up to date? It is strange how you describe it to act DIFFERENTLY in the Morning than in the EVENING. Is that mostly because the type of driving is different?
    "In the mornings it's usually okay, except when I accelarate hard, then it kind of jerks a bit, almost like it's missing, but once I get to speed it's okay." That may indeed be due to a miss in the engine. Check Spark Plugs, make sure they are the correct type and gap, make sure the spark plug wires are in good shape. Bad spark plugs and spark plug wires can cause what you describe. Be sure to take your vehicle to a shop with a good diagnostic code reader, to find out what is wrong in the engine first, then check the transmission after the engine is running good.
    "In the evenings (where the heavy LA traffic is) it does the same. If I turn on the Air Conditioner, it does not was to 'take off' from a light, but once I get up to 25-30 I can feel a surge of power in the truck, and I really take off from there fine. I really feels to me like the engine while working is having a problem with a load or something." In heavy traffic you seem to have a problem taking off, maybe lack of power or under some load pulling the engine down? This sounds most likely like the transmission is starting off in second gear instead of first gear. This could be caused by several things, valve body, soleniods, ect. You need to have a shop with a good transmission code reader pull the transmission codes to see what is wrong with it, then go from there.
    Good Luck,
    E.D.
    :)
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