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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Ladyc, please go to the following site, they sell quality remanufactured transmissions with a 3 year warrenty.

    http://www.jasperengines.com/reman-trans-process.htm
  • jkohnmanjkohnman Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for your reply. You've given me a lot to think about. I'm not as good with the maint. as I should be, but I did have everything serviced about a year ago. Had a tune up etc, and had the fluid changed in the transmission etc. It seemed better up until a couple of weeks ago. I just keep wondering if I should put the money into it if it is the transmission. With as much 'stress' miles I have one it, I'm worried it's might be just the start of stuff. I have LOVED this vehicle, so I hate to write it off too fast.
  • jkohnmanjkohnman Member Posts: 3
    Darn, forgot to mention, I have the 6 cyl. with the 5 speed trans.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I hope you kept copies of those receipts. Ask to see the service manager. If he can't be reasoned with, ask to see the General Manager of the dealership. No luck there, then ask to see a Ford Representative. That may take a week or two, but be patient. There is no way Ford would deny your claim - this is a dealer problem, not a Ford problem. Ford won't deny that claim, if it's as cut and dry as you're telling us.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    "There is no way Ford would deny your claim - this is a dealer problem, not a Ford problem. Ford won't deny that claim, if it's as cut and dry as you're telling us."

    All I know is both Ford & GM are in a major world of hurt with truck/SUV sales down. I bet they are looking at ALL THEIR COSTS.... including WARRANTY CLAIMS.
    He should do as I suggested-get the SUV fixed, take them to small claims court. Before the court date (if it's as cut and dry as he tells us) they will settle. :mad: I had a rattle in a driver's door in my Explorer. It was like trying to move a mountain to get that fixed. The dealer adjusted it three times, more rattles-finally ordered a new door handle. Unbelievable!
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    When the OD light flashes, an error code is turning on a light in the computer to tell you to get the car to the dealer for service, something is wrong in the transmission. If you do it quickly, you may avoid disaster. If you don't, disaster looms ahead, like a rebuild.
  • cplace25cplace25 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 V-8 Ford Explorer and have a few problems. Sometimes when I start it first thing in the morning and put it into drive, it does not move. Sometimes my door ajar light comes on for NO reason and My back right wheel makes a whining noise. Any help or information would be appreciated. My husband used to be a mechanic and told me to never buy a FORD. Maybe I should have listened. :confuse:
  • nennen Member Posts: 3
    My 2003 Explorer XLT periodically and randomly emits a sound much like that of the first note of a siren. Seems to come from the rear. First time I heard it, I thought the highway patrol was behind me. My wife says it sounds like a whoopee cushion, if that helps indentify the sound. It is not accompanied by any noticeable drive train or engine action. Sometimes it will occur two or three times during a 90 mile drive; other times it only occurs once or twice on much longer trips. I'm puzzled.
  • greenbmgreenbm Member Posts: 1
    I have a very similar problem with my 2003 XLT too although i think my noise is coming from the front. sounds like a fairl loud 'siren' noise coming from one of the vents. It seems to only happen when the heat is on because i noticed it this winter. i havent heard it since but you are right it woudl happen 2 or 3 times on a trip. I didnt know what to make of it either. I also experienced no engine problems with this noise either. are you sure your noise is coming from the back??
  • nennen Member Posts: 3
    Maybe the noise could be coming through the rear vents. Since I live in SE Arizona, I don't use the heater ofter, but the air conditioner gets a lot of work. I mentioned the sound to a Ford Service Manager and a local, highly rated, local mechanic, neither of whom recalled hearing of such a problem. It sure is disconcerting--and a little worrisome. Perhaps someone else will show up here with an answer
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    What are the exact circumstances when each of these problems occur? How many miles on the vehicle now?

    Transmission - Have you kept up all maintenance? Did you check to be sure the fluid level is correct? Are you sure the gear shift lever is engaging properly? Strange that sometimes it moves, and sometimes it doesn't. The inconsistency makes diagnosing from a distance difficult.

    Door ajar light - There must a be mis-adjusted door switch. Be sure all doors and back hatch are closed tight. Check each door/hatch by watching the light while having someone repeatedly open and close each door/hatch, to see if you can tell which one it is.

    Right rear wheel whining noise - Could you be more specific, does this happen when moving? How fast? Any particular speed? Does it make the noise both in forward and reverse. Does the pitch of the whine vary with the speed or is it constant? Has the rear axle ever had any work done on it? Fluid level in rear axle may need to be checked. They say that it doesn't need to be checked, but any that I have checked with over 75,000 miles needed fluid to be added.

    The V8 engines and transmissions are generally very reliable on these vehicles. I have a 2000 with V8 and Automatic 2 wheel drive, and very happy with it. Don't give up yet, these may be very minor issues. Hope I can help.
    Good Luck,
    E.D.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    What conditions does this noise happen at? At any certain speed? Slow speed? Highway speed? I'm sure it never happens when still, right? If that is the case, a good possibility would be wind noise causing something to vibrate. Could be the roof rack vibrating. Try taking off the cross supports from the roof rack, throw them in the back, and see if the problem goes away. Do you have anything else on there that could catch the wind, like a bug shield or vent shades?
    Good Luck,
    E.D.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I could of course be wrong, but I'm betting your funny noise, both in the rear, and in the front vent, is a bad expansion valve in your evaporator for your air conditioner talking to you. I've run into this quite a bit. It's an eerie sound, tough to isolate because it does it infrequently, and it's such a short burst, you can't find it before it's over. But when it's finally been tracked down, that's what it's been every time.
  • aalexander1aalexander1 Member Posts: 1
    When my 2000 Explorer (bought new, serviced religiously) was brought in for 100K mile servicing, the tranny was also serviced. Since then, the "O/D Off" light will start to flash at any given time. Once I park the truck, let it set overnight, it is fine for another 1000 miles or so, then the light returns. I've taken it back to the dealer X3.. each time a code "intermittant slippage" is observed. During the last visit the dealer said either rebuild or replace.. I believe this is just too coincidental.. the light never flashed until they last serviced the tranny. When the light is not flashing the tranny shifts flawlessly. Is this truly a precursor of worse things to come, or could it simply be a worn part, sensor, solenoid. etc? Tx.
  • gasburnergasburner Member Posts: 31
    I have a 99 Explorer XLT Sport Package, V8 2WD with about 60K miles that I bought new. Most of the miles have been in heavy city (stop and go) traffic. I also occasionally tow an 18' boat. After about 6 years I can say, overall it has been a good experience and don't regret the purchase. The engine and trans. have been rock solid. I've had a few minor things that needed to be repaired, like the windshield wipers with a mind of their own. Probably the most significant repair has been the ball joints and sway bar in the front end (all covered under warranty). I have a potential issue developing that I'm trying to figure out and I'm looking for feedback. I hear a poping/clunking noise coming from the right front of the car while going over bumps. It sounds like it is coming from inside the car, from under the dash, near glove box area. I've looked at the front suspension components and everything looks OK, at least that I can tell, and the front sway bar brackets were recently replaced and it didn't affect the noise. Anybody have any ideas of what this could be? I've read some have had problems with parts in the air box getting loose. How can I tell if this is the case? Any way tor further test the suspension components?

    Oh, by the way, how the heck do you lube the front suspension?
  • nennen Member Posts: 3
    It has occurred at varying speed from, say, 15-20 mph to highway speed. No bug shields or vent shades. I'll check the roof rack.

    All maintenance is done at recommended intervals, and I check fluid levels periodically. Vehicle has 35,000 miles. Have never heard in reverse, but as mentioned above it's only at higher speeds than I ever hit in reverse.

    Thanks for the suggestions.
  • bradlicbradlic Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2005 Mountaineer and there is a fluid leaking, it apperas to becoming from under the center of the vehicle. Is this where the transmission is located? I thought the transmission was near the front.

    Thanks for any help.
  • briansladebrianslade Member Posts: 1
    I recently had a car accident which altered my 2000 Honda CRV's frame. The mechanic said it was bent two inches in and had to be taken to a body shop for repair. How much is that going to cost me?
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    I have a 99 v8 4WD that had a pop noise in the front suspension. It was darn hard to nail down, but ended up being the torsion bar rear mounts/pads.

    I could reproduce the noise as follows:

    Find a really obnoxious speed bump. (Old Kmarts seem to have really bad ones)

    You want to hit the bump at just the right speed, so that as you are on top of the bump your hood is rising quickly, and as you drive off of the bump your wheels drop down fuly extending your suspension. The combination of your hood going up while your wheels drop off of the bump gets that full extension. Your hood / front end will then drop, pretty well compressing the front suspension. You should hear the pop at this point.

    Hit the bump too slow, and the hood is dropping down before you drive off the bump and your suspension doesn't extend. Too fast, the hood never "bounces up" in reaction to the bump. You gotta get that hood bounce to fully extend the front suspension.

    If you can consistently reproduce the noise this way, ford or a good front end shop can put the sniffers(electronic ears) on the front end and you can drive the bump till they nail down what part makes the noise.

    Since you have had a fair amount of front end work already, I would say this becomes a pretty strong possibility as quite a few of your other parts have been replaced.

    In my case they replaced sway bar tie links front and rear , tie rod ends, lower right control arm and sway bar mounts and bushings front and rear, before I figured out the speed bump test.

    Can't lube the front end, there are no zerk fittings. You can spray wd 40 on all your front end bushings, but I doubt this will do anything.

    Oh, just for grins, reach behind your intake manifold and make sure the PCV valve is still in the grommet and hoses attached.. Its right next to the firewall, and if it blows out it clunks around. This is a real longshot, but it never hurts to check.....
  • nitromaxnitromax Member Posts: 640
    I have a 2005 Mountaineer and there is a fluid leaking, it apperas to becoming from under the center of the vehicle. Is this where the transmission is located? I thought the transmission was near the front.

    Sounds like the tail end of the transmission may be leaking. Slide under the vehicle with some paper towels and locate the wet spot.
  • eng6ineeng6ine Member Posts: 29
    My Question is, has anyone replaced thier fuel filter on an Explorer (2004 V6)? I cannot locate the fuel filter. I have a new one so I know what it looks like but am unable to find it under my Explorer. And the manual that comes with the vehicle does not show where it is located, they say have your authorized Ford dealer do it.......come on now, it's a fuel filter not a big deal.
    :confuse:
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    If the 2004 is similar to older models, the fuel filter is located inside the left frame rail in an area under the left front door. Remember to have the special tool needed to remove the filter from the fuel line. Make sure you read all the safety precautions. Fuel is under pressure and if the old filter is removed incorrectly you will end up with a face full of fuel!
  • txlegmantxlegman Member Posts: 8
    Mine did the same. Finally unlocked after hitting the button over and over again. Now it won't open at all. Can't get an appointment for a week. Were able to find out what went wrong?
  • bradlicbradlic Member Posts: 8
    My Mercury dealer called this morning and said that the transmission drain plug was installed crooked at the factory and striped the trans case, which needs to be replaced. This will take a week, and the dealer does not want to get me a loaner car.
  • benderofbowsbenderofbows Member Posts: 542
    They should give you a loaner car in that situation, especially since your vehicle is so new.

    Maybe I'm just in a bad mood today, but I'd tell them that if I don't have a car, I'll just have to hang around their sales floor and relate my story to all of the potential customers that I can.
  • ohmyfordohmyford Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: I have a 2003 4x4 v8 explorer which should have been turned in as a lemon from the get go. But of course, like other people I listened to the 4 different dealers I took it to that said "these things are normal". Now my latest problem is totally frustrating. My computer reset itself about two weeks ago, and right after, I noticed my mpg gage was going crazy. Going up to 40+ miles down to 1 mile per gallon. I shut it down for an hour or two, and it was fine again. So, I thought nothing of it. Today, the only electric I have on my truck is the ignition, wipers, door locks, and lights in the on position. Nothing else works. Which leads me to believe it is not the battery. My airbags are off along with my advance track. Any suggestions/solutions are welcome. Tomorrow I am sure I will hear "It is normal" from the dealership.
  • ga_peachga_peach Member Posts: 1
    WE HAVE A 92 FORD EXPLORER XLT 2WD WITH AN A4LD TRANNY.WE HAVE HAD IT REBUILT TWICE AND IT STILL DOESNT CHANGE OUT.I DONT KNOW WHAT THE DEAL IS.ANYBODY HAVE ANY ANSWERS???
  • slim6ftslim6ft Member Posts: 1
    i am unable to shift from park with the brake depressed, i have checked fuses, i have depressed parking brake turned key to lock removed key inserted key depressed brake turned key to off position and still couldnt get out of park, brake lights work, i don't know what to do from here cause i don't know where the shift lock actuator is located or what it looks like, can anyone help?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    PLEASE TURN OFF THE CAPS, BECAUSE IT READS LIKE YOU ARE SHOUTING!
    The Ford A4LD Automatic transmission has been problematic. Go BACK in this forum and read POSTS # 3735, 3736, 3744, 3745, 3746, 3747 and 3751, and that will be the answers to you question.
    Good Luck,
    E.D.
  • nitromaxnitromax Member Posts: 640
    Now my latest problem is totally frustrating. My computer reset itself about two weeks ago, and right after, I noticed my mpg gage was going crazy. Going up to 40+ miles down to 1 mile per gallon. I shut it down for an hour or two, and it was fine again. So, I thought nothing of it. Today, the only electric I have on my truck is the ignition, wipers, door locks, and lights in the on position. Nothing else works. Which leads me to believe it is not the battery. My airbags are off along with my advance track. Any suggestions/solutions are welcome. Tomorrow I am sure I will hear "It is normal" from the dealership.

    It sounds like a loose connection in one of your main electrical cable bundles. I wonder if all of the problematic issues are tied into one cable bundle.
  • borrelliborrelli Member Posts: 1
    Several electrical components are no longer working on my 96 Ford Explorer. The components not working are as follows: key pad on the door (keyless entry), theft light (dashboard-the alarm has not gone off since the other features stopped working), Cruise control (dashboard light-the actual cruise control still works), and the automatic lock feature when the car starts moving at a certain speed.

    I would really like to get this fixed. Has anyone had similar problems? Any solutions?

    thanks so much!
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    I think you're talking about the rear end diff fluid. I have a 2002 Ford Explorer and it's leaking from about the same spot that you're talking about. The dealer fixed it 2 times and it still leaked, and eventually on the 3rd time they had to replace the entire differential (rear end). Good luck.
  • shumatemjshumatemj Member Posts: 1
    I hope someone could give us some info on our ford. It uses about 1 1/2 quarts every week and a half. It doesn't leak, it doesn't smoke, we have no smell of burning oil. But no one can tell me where the oil is going. any help would be great. :confuse:
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    You didn't mention what engine you have.

    If you have the V8 302, and all of your plugs look normal ( meaning no head gasket oil leaks) and have otherwise been told the engine is fine, then the most likely culprit is your PCV valve. Most likely you will find oil in the PCV hoses if this is your engine.

    My 302 sucks oil up the PCV and burns it, altho not as fast as yours. If you have any pinging on long hills or steep hills that is another indicator.

    I have played with my PCV system (new valve,, etc. etc.) and could not stop it from sucking oil, so I ended up putting an oil separator ( oil catch can) on it. It seems to drink 5/30 faster than 15/50 so I use the heavier oil.

    Would be interested to hear back if that is the culprit or what the problem turns out to be!
  • teacher7teacher7 Member Posts: 3
    I'll give the procedure a try when I get home this evening and let you know how I came out.
    Thanks for the quick help.
  • hardrockminerhardrockminer Member Posts: 1
    Hello...anyone have any advice regarding the failure of a Borg-Warner 4405 (F77A-GA) electronically controlled transfer case? My vehicle started making a banging/ratcheting sound at +30 mph every 5 seconds or so and degraded to a violent ratcheting about 1 to 2 times per second. At first I thought it was a locking hub failure, but I located the source of the noise once the transfer case failed. Now it drives fine in 4WD Low, but remains stationary and screams with a terrible grinding sound when placed in 4WD Hi or Auto and with the tranny engaged in either reverse or drive. I took a look underneath and it looks like the rear seal of the transfer case has been leaking fluid. Am I better off rebuilding the unit, or buying a transfer case with 51K miles that I've located at a local salvage yard for $550? BTW, my 4.0 L Explorer has 131,000 miles on it. I've been told that the yokes in the transfer case may need to be replaced, but I'm not sure of the extent of damage.

    Thanks in advance for any advice sent my way!
  • asstpartswenchasstpartswench Member Posts: 1
    ok, so i let my rear brakes go way to far. and know we are having issuse removing the rotors. they appear to be stuck on the emergency brake pads. did we miss some thing?
  • kmcgrathkmcgrath Member Posts: 1
    I don't know the answer, but I can share with you that my '98 ford explorer started doing exactly the same thing about 4 weeks ago. The other doors will unlock, but the driver's side will unlock only after pushing the unlock button on the passenger side 10-20 times.
  • eng6ineeng6ine Member Posts: 29
    Finally found the fuel filter, gonna have to remove a heat shield and part of the fuel tank shield to get to it....this is why it cost $90.00 to have it changed at the dealer.
    And I will be getting the right tool for the job, heard some bad stories about people not having the right tool for the job and it could get ugly.
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    I am a miner, hardrockminer, to the shafthouse, I must go.....(Cowboy Junkies, The Trinity Sessions) Pretty good song.

    Sounds like your chain is slipping in your transfer case.

    A complete parts kit, including chain, can be had for around 250.00. Since your chain is probably slipping, you most likely need some new drive gears for the chain, which would be extra - they are not part of the normal rebuild kit.

    Rebuilding takes some tools - gear pullers, bearing pullers, etc. And the main output shaft nut has 250 lbs of torque on it, so air tools are good here. Not sure how much wrench time you have - it's not a beginners job, but if you can follow instructions you can probably handle it.

    Search rebuilt transfer cases on the net. They can be had with 12/12 warranties for somewhere around 750.00 and shipping. Maybe a little less

    550.00 for a used one is kind of high in my opinion unless they are pulling it out for you.
    You might try some other salvage yards and see if you can do better.

    I'm going to go get my Cowboy Junkies cd and put it on.......
  • cobra2cobra2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Explorer Sport with 3000 miles and it developed the "chirp " at about 2000 miles. I first noticed it on the interstate and it happened about every 20 seconds(when the air conditioner was on). I've had it back at the dealer twice and was told the last time that ALL Explorers did it and I would "just have to live with it". The service manager offered to replace the fan clutch assembly, but he said that after a thousand miles or so it would do it (chirp) again!
    I've talked to some of the other dealerships in my area and they seem to think the problem is NOT normal and CAN be fixed..... so I plan to let them take a look at it.
    I would be interested to know if any one that has the problem has been able to get it corrected ...
    I really like everything about the truck, but the Chirping is driving me up a wall!
  • anniep2anniep2 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Bob. Not having any 4x4 trouble, but I've got the recall on the back glass, and had the split in the plastic piece below the back glass. My big problem is that at 38K I've got this awful ticking sound when I turn the wheel. It's worse in a left turn, but getting that way when making a right turn. Anyone familiar with this??????? :confuse:
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    I have a '98 Explorer with 90k miles. I only saw one screw on the transfer case - which seems right - since there's only one screw in the manual. Anyway, how do I get the old fluid out?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Or, if you have the 4.0L, that engine is prone to oil consumption in later years of life. It can burn quite a bit without any smoke coming out, the catalytic converter will mask the smoke the engine does emit very nicely. You'll go through a quart of oil per tankful of gas easily before you'll ever get smoke from her.
  • you1you1 Member Posts: 2
    1997 Explorer (78k miles). I have a popping noise (and can feel it in the steering wheel), when I accelerate, brake or go over slight bumps. It does not occur when I am turning, accelerate hard or brake hard though. It sounds like it is coming from the front driver side. I can not duplicate unless I am in motion. It seems to be more prevalent when the car temperature or outside temperature is warmer.

    I recently replaced the rack and pinion, tie rods and lower steering shaft.

    Any ideas would be helpful, thanks
  • hondafan5hondafan5 Member Posts: 6
    Looks like I have the same problem. I bought a 2005 eddie bauer v6 explorer on Saturday - two days ago - and I had the same problem last night. After starging the explorer, I noticed the fuel gauge was below E (with a dealer provided full tank) and the service engine light came on. The info center said low oil pressure. I took the explorer in this morning and they gave me a rental. I'm concerned this may be an ongoing issue. With only 100 miles on the car - hopefully this will be a one time fix.

    Nobody responded to Ottav's posting - anybody have any clues what this might be?

    Thanks in advance!
  • scaliwagscaliwag Member Posts: 1
    I have 98 explorer AWD 5.0 liter automatic.

    For some time now it has had this squeaking which sounds like
    is from the drivers front wheel/axel area. It does not do it when it is first
    started and driven... after about 5 minutes it does the squeaking noise only
    at an idle to 5/6 MPH then it goes away.. stop signs, drive thru's.. etc..

    You can tell by the way that it squeaks that it is something rotating...

    I have removed and replaced the short shaft from the transfer case to the front differential and that made no difference..

    I talked to someone the other day that said that it was most likely the 4 wheel drive
    hub because the drive gears are made of nylon and they wear or break down
    around 80K... I just hit 80K and he did not know that??..

    Is this something I can do with my standard tool set or does a mechanic have
    to do this... Also does this even sound plausable that this is the problem....

    Could the transfer case cause this type of noise?? the fluid is right up to the level
    it should be and has no sign of leaks....

    Thanks in advance
  • fordexp1fordexp1 Member Posts: 14
    I bought a 2005 Ford Eddie Bauer V6. I only have about 5000 miles on it. The best gas mileage I have gotten has been about 17 mpg on the highway, is something wrong?? In the city i am getting around 12-14 mpg, and highway 15-17. I have contacted a few dealerships and had it tested where I purchased the vehicle and they say this is in fords specs. The dealerships in Houston, wont test the damn thing unless i am willing to pay 84 dollars to do the computer diagnostics on it.... which is great customer service let me tell you. My father bought a expedition at the same time and his 5.4 L V8 is getting better mpg than my explorer, something has got to be screwed up.

    Any comments would be greatly appreciated, and if anyone from the houston area knows of a Ford Dealership's service department that isnt around to screw you, names would be helpfull. Thanks.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    "I bought a 2005 Ford Eddie Bauer V6. I only have about 5000 miles on it. The best gas mileage I have gotten has been about 17 mpg on the highway, is something wrong?? In the city i am getting around 12-14 mpg, and highway 15-17."

    My wife has a '02 XLT w/V6 and 2WD. She drives very conservatively. It currently has a little over 41,000 miles on it. The car averages no more than 14 city and will get 20mpg highway IF DRIVEN NO FASTER THAN 70MPH. If your getting 17 highway you may want to keep it under 70mph and see what happens. Also, I don't know why the dealer didn't tell you this, but I would wait at least another 5,000 miles before determining your real world mpg. I have a '05 Taurus (company provided vehicle) and it got REALLY BAD mileage when new, but stated getting better as I approached 12,000 miles. And I don't mean to sound sarcastic or disrespectful, but it clearly sounds like mileage is really important to you----Why did you buy an SUV with gas around $2.00 per gallon?
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,256
    that kind of mileage on the highway is not right. check your tire pressures and post back what they are. although my fuel mileage computer reads high, it's usally close within a mpg or so. try measuring the gas mileage yourself. maybe the gas station you are going to is ripping you off.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
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