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After 2 1/2 years of ownership, I can tell you it IS RIGHT if he is doing 80 or over on the open road.......
If I had known this explorer was going to get this bad of mpg I would have just got the expedition or the V8 in the explorer, they would have probably been a little more fun to drive. I had a 91 Explorer before my last car, and I always got about 18-19 in the city and 21-23 on the highways with it, so I figured something was up with my new one.
Hind sight I should have got the V8 explorer, and would tell anyone that buys a new one to get the V8. Its gas mileage seems to be equal to that of the V6 with a little more pep. Thanks for the comments.
History of Repairs:
The dealership replaced my serpentine belt on 05-02-2002 and then again on 7-17-2003. After the CY 2003 repair, the noise returned within a few months. Depending upon the weather (wet and/or humid) the noise can be somewhat erratic. In cold weather, the noise would disappear after a few minutes provided I was not encountering wet/snow conditions. Apparently, it is a mechanical defect that is not covered under the extended warranty provision.
Factory Shop Manual:
I was trying to locate a Ford Shop Manual to look into the matter.
Pervasive Ford Repair Issue on Several Model Years:
Since the problem exists on the 2005 vehicles, either Ford is unaware of the problem or is ignoring their responsibility to repair the problem. Perhaps, the dealerships are not reporting the problem to the factory and/or the repair amount is immaterial for Ford to take any action on behalf of its customers.
Yes, it has been talked about on this board that the V8 only gets about 2 mpg less highway, than the V6. Around town it seems to get about 1 mpg less. I can't explain how one poster is getting a claimed 20mpg at 80mph w/ the V8. This is against everything I know and all the posts here.........
As far as the V6 vs. the V8, the V6 seems to have plenty of torque for around town. IT IS pretty noisy. I think the main difference is on the highway. If you "punch" the V6 on the highway...there isn't a whole left as far as power is concerned.
Good Luck,
E.D.
http://www.autoweek.com/article.cms?articleId=102311
one thing that i have figured out is that tire pressures are very important. it can do 2 things for you, get you better mileage and make the tires last longer.
just to be clear, i don't always get 20 mpg's on a trip, but i have done it several times trying to maintain 80 mph. usually i am running the rear a/c too. i do know that you can get about an extra mpg by setting the front tires to a pressure slightly over the number listed on your door sticker.
C'mon, Chuck - the Explorer has been the best selling SUV since the day it came out.... What you see in the 2006 refresh is the deletion of the trouble prone liftgate with the composite/glass door combination, unfortunately, and the introduction of the new front end look for Ford, like it or not, of the horizontal bars in the grille. I'm not crazy about the look either - but it'll grow on me probably. The rest of the truck looks the same, so I know it'll have the same basic characteristics that make it so universally appealing to the masses.
I think you're wrong, but not altogether - there are some Ford designs that I can't abide and would not buy -
The 96 Taurus
The Contour
The 98 Town Car
The 94 Tempo
The Contour
The 98 Town Car
The 94 Tempo
I'll agree on all except the Contour. I owned 3 of them. That 2.5 Duratec-WOW! what a motor! It would rev like crazy all day long. And the handling was very much of a "European flavor". Thank the Ford marketing department for the lack of volume on that car. Coupled with pricing it with in $1,500.00 of the Taurus.....
When you get a "cannot duplicate" the best thing to do is make sure you know exactly how to drive your car so you can recreate the problem whenever you want. I.E. same rpm's, same speed same gear - and voila the transmission slips.
Then take the service manager for a ride and show him what the problem is.
Once the service manager has verified your "concern" (thats a Ford word for maybe you have a problem, maybe you don't) usually the repair process will start pretty quickly.
And long term its good to know the service manager on a first name basis.
Don't know what engine / trans you have, but you need to get all the old fluid out, making sure you drain the torque converter, change the filter ($25) and clean the pan magnet. If your Ex does not have a torque converter drain plug, then change your filter/ clean the pan, and take it to a shop and have them power flush it to get the rest of the old fluid out. do NOT power flush it without changing out the old filter first.
Don't know if this will work, but for $100 or so its worth a try.
http://www.dieseldynamics.com/popup/chiplocator.htm
You have been driving your car with the overdrive light flashing for a long time, which is not good since that is trying to tell you that there is something wrong.
If I understand correctly, your transmission shifts ok, and makes no noises, you just have to back off the gas to get to second gear or out of passing gear.
It is possible that less than a rebuild is needed to repair it. Take it to a good transmission shop and have them read the codes the transmission is setting (it is setting codes when the O/D light flashes). There are parts in the tranny that can be replaced without a full rebuild. A good A/T mechanic usually has a good idea of what is wrong from your description of the problem. Write down the code numbers and the explanations for your reference. And don't be afraid to have two shops give you opinions.
Then you can make the decision of whether repair or replace makes most sense. Or whether you have a new car payment instead.
Costco's price that included new valve, balancing, nitrogen gas, lifetime balancing, repair, rotation and road hazard coverage was very fair. Their service people were great. Two people checked the lug nuts with torque wrenches before they returned the truck to me.
The biggest surprise came when I was driving home. The quiet, shock free ride was impressive. In addition to new tires, I got a new truck! Now if the tires live up to their ratings I should be a happy camper for a long time (assuming, of course, that the rest of the truck stays healthy!) .
Those Michelins are the best tires for the Explorer...hands down. They are the most quiet and smooth riding tire I have experienced. However, you won't get the 60K or 70K out of then that they are rated. I took good care of them, and replaced them before 40,000 miles.
thanks J.D.
There is a relay in the power box under the hood which controls power to the engine computer. These sometimes go bad and /or work only intermittently. Have the dealer swap this relay with another less critical relay in the power box. Or buy one ( $40 or so)and put it in the next time it won't start.
there are only two different relay types in there, unless there is something new in the 2005.
I suggest that because if the power to the computer fails, it won't record codes.
As you know all the explores and cars have this function always ON and they have a botton to turn it off.
I just want some help to know when I have to turn it off and when I have to keep it on.
Why Im asking this because I see that if I put O/D Off the truck feels like if it has more force, also Im asking this because I put some rims 20's and spinners and may be the rims are making the truck forcing more
Please help me
Thank You
Another way to put it (if I used too many big words before) is, only leave the OD on if you're on the freeway going over 55 MPH.
allowing to replace rear rotors. Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated.
Alignment.... Power Steering....?????????
HELP!!!
I have a 98' Explorer XLT 4.0L SOHC w/ 51K 4WD. I had my front ball joints replaced three months ago but I think it is unrelated to my current problem. When I start the car and for the first couple minutes after I am driving an odd rattling noise comes from underneath the back of the car. I first noticed it when pulling into a sharp turn in a garage. It happens when the car is idle and stops soon after I drive it. It sounds like a New Year's ever noise maker, the ones you hold and spin the top, kind of a racheting sound. I know little to nothing about cars but the noise appears to be coming from a rounded box right before the drive train connects to the rear axle. Any thoughts??
Thanx
I would ask myself (realistically) how much more life is in this vehicle. :confuse:
to back off rear emergency brake to remove rotor?
I have a 1995 Explorer XLT with just over 200,000 miles on it (whew!) I should have sold it earlier when it didn't have the problems it has now, but what can you do? The interior is great, exterior not so great but okay. The main problem with it is that the transfer case makes horrible noises—cricket like squeaking, crunchy grinding sounds at low speeds, and massive, deep vibration at high speeds. I don't know if I should try to sell it as-is for almost nothing, or get a new transfer case. I don't want to pay what it would cost to have my mechanic do the work, so I'm interested in finding out how to do it myself over the next few weeks. Please give me some feedback about this, thanks. :sick:
E.D.
E.D.