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Comments
Jane
ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS??? DEARLERSHIP NO HELP.
THANKS, RONNY
I suggest turning off your CAPS LOCK. People tend to ignore messages typed in ALL CAPS.
tidester, host
was it a ford recall?
When spinning the front wheel at a constant speed the sensor should put out an ac voltage of between 100 and 3500 microvolts, and the same for the sensor on the rear.
I think, but am not 100% sure that that can be measured at the sensor itself when disconnected (unplugged).
The fuse puzzles me a little - did you pull the 50 amp fuse under the bonnet? (Or is that the trunk to Brits, I can't remember!). That one should disable ABS only. The small one in the interior might affect the speedo. Not a big deal if you are going to fix it.
Good luck!
The 99's had a recall for a bad multifunction switch. Wipers would operate at odd times. The switches were replaced under the recall, but I think Ford did some kind of quick fix, as I have seen many posts about the replacement switches smoking. Mine did the same (one of the MANY reasons I am exploded99).
Time for a new switch. I think they are available aftermarket - try rockauto.com and see if you find one there.
At the heart of my "cryptic" messages was a sincere attempt to help fellow Ford enthusiasts. As a retired Ford Engineer, I'm in a position to do that, but it's difficult to do so here.
Peace?
Thanks for your reply! The truck has 112,000 miles and yes the rattle is most pronounced on start-up. I'll take it straight to the dealer. Thank you, bioman!
March: Gas gauge says empty even with full tank--we take in Explorer and are told to switch gas stations due to sulfur content (sure).
April: Same problem, big surprise--we take in Explorer and are told they will order gauge cluster and sending unit
May: Parts finally arrive--we get a call that the gauge cluster that they installed was in kilometers instead of miles--they are ordering new part.
Today: Ford calls and says they have 2nd gauge cluster in and are ready to install.
We've had similar problems with blinkers, cruise control, and rear driverside power window--last Ford we'll buy for sure (and it's costing them a lot, we've recently talked many relatives/friends out of Ford).
PS This was purchased brand new and has been immaculately maintained.
Other than that, buy a 6 foot step ladder and tie it down to the roof rack and just leave it there, that should fix the problem.
I have a 1998 explorer that recently had the auto and converter replaced at a cost of $AU3500 then had in back one day to find out the CRANK SHAFT SNAPPED has anyone out there heard of this happening? I've only owned the explorer for 1.5 years and are not very happy with this especially being fourth generation ford people and was thinking of trading the exp for a new teritory! Ford motor company have not been helful at all. So now i require a new engine and are looking at 5000+ NOT HAPPY....
If it's a lower-frequency resonance, where the bars themselves vibrate, I offer a solution that worked in my previous life. Fill the cross-bars with sand. I'm serious; this was a field fix back in the 60's.
It makes sense since you're changing the effective mass of a mechanical oscillator thereby changing its resonance frequency.
tidester, host
tidester, host
Respectfully,
Tickedoff2
Its much more likely you have a u-joint problem. You don't say if you're 2wd, 4wd, or awd.
But I'd suggest getting another opinion. Try a shop that works on driveshafts ( try driveshafts in yellow pages). Or a four wheel drive shop.
I just bought a 2000 Ford Explorer Sport with 75k miles. Should I get the timing chain tensioner replaced?
Thanks for info.
Adjustments
Remove the upper instrument panel steering column cover.
Place the gearshift lever in the position.
Rotate the gearshift lever clockwise until it bottoms out (first gear), then rotate two detents counterclockwise (D) position).
Hang a 3.6 kg (8 lb) weight on the gearshift lever.
Center the pointer in the middle of the 19 position.
Rotate the thumbwheel located on the bottom of the steering column to adjust the pointer.
Remove the 3.6 kg (8 lb) weight.
Carefully move the gearshift lever from detent to detent and compare with the transmission settings.
Readjust if necessary.
Install the upper instrument panel steering column cover.
This gets you started. The instructions will probably be a bit clearer when you are looking at it. They are not the best.
Nate
rear end leaking again after several fixes. each time i would hear the whine first and then would see the leak. each time after the dealer has replaced the seals (which the service advisor said was the problem) the noise would dismiss along with the leaking problem. however, is it really the seal that's causing the whine and leak? now here is something interesting... i can recall that everytime after i loaded the truck up with something (1st time i helped a friend move, 2nd time i loaded 45 bags of wood barks with 15 bags each trip, and the 3rd time i loaded the truck with 10 bags of potting soil), the rear end would start leaking. my question is... am i stressing the rear end axle by doing so? i certainly thought the truck could handle a MUCH heavier load than that! :confuse:
anyway, just got the car back from the dealer, and i sure hope that if this is going to happen again, let's please be within 12k miles so the dealer will have to fix it again for free under the 12k mil warranty on new parts! :P
I have posted about this subject before, try searching for the posts below:
#1251 99 Explorer Rear Ends by bigalds on 03/02/2002 can't remember which forum.
#2151 Comments on Ball Joints & Rear Axles to all by electricdesign on 12/31/2004 on the Ford Explorer/Mercury Mountaineer forum
(those where some of my previous screen names)
Good Luck
E.D.
My guess is that since you have heard the whine several times your pinion gear and ring gear are now highly suspect (bad). The pinion gear is supported by a bearing - I think that bearing is worn / damaged, and is causing the seal faillures. Stressing the rear pinion bearing ( which is what you are doing when you put a lot of weight in the vehicle) apparently causes enough movement to damage the seal.
If that is the case, the ring and pinion gears will be wearing incorrectly and you will get early rear differential failure.
I would be talking to the service manager at this point. Multiple seal failures is not normal, and you need to let them know you are aware that these differentials are having problems. Certainly, if it occurs again, I would not accept only the seal being repaired. That is just the symptom, not the problem. Multiple rear seal failures would be enough reason for a service manager to approve more extensive work.
Next time, I would insist on a differential rebuild.
Also, "suspension seizing" - I think you are feeling the engine move.
Have a mechanic check your motor (and transmission) mounts. You must do more than a visual check to be sure they are good.
However, the incident this afternoon led me to believe there is apparently still something isn't right about this transmission. This really worries me....
electricdesign, it seem to be leaking from the middle of the rear diff, but then the dealer said it was the left seal, then the right seal, then the left seal again...
Another "odd noise" I have noticed is a whine that comes and goes when accelerating from low speeds. It's there mostly when I start moving from a dead stop and I gradually accelerate until I reach a higher speed and then it goes away. It almost sounds related to the transmission. Sometimes it's louder than other times. I would be interested in hearing if anyone else has noticed this noise.