Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

17475777980125

Comments

  • janeblacklerjaneblackler Member Posts: 2
    Thanks very much for this. We did pull out the fuse and it stopped the problem, but it also for some reason stopped the speedo working!! So we put it back as we didn't know what speed we were doing. I will call Ford UK and find out if there are any dealers who have the equipment for testing the ABS. I have been quoted £100 a sensor for the two front sensors, so we will probably do these and see if this solves the problem. I will let you know what they find out, and thank you again.

    Jane
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    If you have the V6 SOHC engine that has less than 70K, Ford should replace the timing chain tensioner(s). I believe the tensioners were made of plastic or had plastic components that wore out prematurely. So, Ford decided to extend the warranty on the engines involved to 7 years 70K. There were catastrophic engine failures that required having the engines replaced. If this is the problem with your truck get it dealt with ASAP. With this problem the rattle is most obvious when you start a cold engine. I believe the TSB is number 0012.
  • bldaz2005bldaz2005 Member Posts: 9
    Fortunately i have more money than time, i just bought an Expy, see ya. have a nice life. :shades:
  • russellspeakinrussellspeakin Member Posts: 1
    JUST FOUNT SOURCE OF WIND NOISE ON 05 EB EXP.-- IT'S THE CROSS BARS (2). TRIED MOVING BOTH ALL THE WAY TO THE REAR, ALL THE WAY TO THE FRONT, TAKING ONE OFF. ONLY WAY TO GET RID OF NOISE (FROM 35-55) IS TO TILT MOON ROOF OR REMOVE BOTH BARS.

    ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS??? DEARLERSHIP NO HELP.

    THANKS, RONNY
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS???

    I suggest turning off your CAPS LOCK. People tend to ignore messages typed in ALL CAPS.

    tidester, host
  • kayakingkayaking Member Posts: 2
    the same happened to my 99 ford explorer. can you tell me what the problem was?
    was it a ford recall?
  • kayakingkayaking Member Posts: 2
    smoke pours out of the steering wheel occasionally.
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    I came across a message at another site where the person had ABS engaging when turning slightly, and new front sensors cured it. So that would be a good thing to try first.

    When spinning the front wheel at a constant speed the sensor should put out an ac voltage of between 100 and 3500 microvolts, and the same for the sensor on the rear.
    I think, but am not 100% sure that that can be measured at the sensor itself when disconnected (unplugged).

    The fuse puzzles me a little - did you pull the 50 amp fuse under the bonnet? (Or is that the trunk to Brits, I can't remember!). That one should disable ABS only. The small one in the interior might affect the speedo. Not a big deal if you are going to fix it.

    Good luck!
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    It should be smoke from the steering column, behind the wheel.

    The 99's had a recall for a bad multifunction switch. Wipers would operate at odd times. The switches were replaced under the recall, but I think Ford did some kind of quick fix, as I have seen many posts about the replacement switches smoking. Mine did the same (one of the MANY reasons I am exploded99).

    Time for a new switch. I think they are available aftermarket - try rockauto.com and see if you find one there.
  • sharp1sharp1 Member Posts: 2
    I had the same thing this week. Bought a 2005 Ford Explorer XLT. Next day the fuel gauge went to empty(had a full tank) and the service engine light went on. Dealership advised today is a known problem the fuel sending unit is defective.. not a happy camper. They have to order the part and drop my fuel tank to replace the unit. Ford knows these are defective. Part is on back order. I own three Fords and this is not good business.
  • lateralglateralg Member Posts: 929
    I've said some things on this thread that have offended people, and I regret the results. For that, I apologize.

    At the heart of my "cryptic" messages was a sincere attempt to help fellow Ford enthusiasts. As a retired Ford Engineer, I'm in a position to do that, but it's difficult to do so here.

    Peace?
  • christinajchristinaj Member Posts: 2
    Hello!

    Thanks for your reply! The truck has 112,000 miles and yes the rattle is most pronounced on start-up. I'll take it straight to the dealer. Thank you, bioman!
  • moeharrimoeharri Member Posts: 108
    Get ready for a bumpy ride! We have a 2003 XLT with 19k miles and have the exact same problem. It went like this.
    March: Gas gauge says empty even with full tank--we take in Explorer and are told to switch gas stations due to sulfur content (sure).
    April: Same problem, big surprise--we take in Explorer and are told they will order gauge cluster and sending unit
    May: Parts finally arrive--we get a call that the gauge cluster that they installed was in kilometers instead of miles--they are ordering new part.
    Today: Ford calls and says they have 2nd gauge cluster in and are ready to install.

    We've had similar problems with blinkers, cruise control, and rear driverside power window--last Ford we'll buy for sure (and it's costing them a lot, we've recently talked many relatives/friends out of Ford).

    PS This was purchased brand new and has been immaculately maintained.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I've never noticed such a noise on mine - any of 'em....
  • sharp1sharp1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, we will see how many times they replace this one. I still like the truck but damn if you know the part is defective replace it before you sell it.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    They are not too bad price wise. I just bought a multifunction switch for the 1997 XLT from the Ford Dealer and it was just over $60. I'm sure it was the upgraded one. The suprizing part is how easy it is to put on, you don't even have to pull the steering wheel off, like in the old daze. A few small screws, and the cover around the column comes right off. The knob for the tilt steering just unscrews to get it out of the way. Then just take out two screws on the multifunction switch, then unplug the wire harness connectors, and it's off, all in a matter of a few minutes. Installation is the reverse. I replaced mine because sometimes the headlights would not turn on, and I would have to pull or push the stalk to get them to come on. Since I didn't want to get stuck out of town at night with no headlights, I replaced it before it crapped out.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I've heard of this Roof Rack noise before on some other forums. I can't remember what the solution was, but it seems that if most of them don't do it, then there must be something specific causing the problem, maybe it is warped a little in such a way that it catches the wind. Is it possble to bend it slightly to see if that makes a difference?
    Other than that, buy a 6 foot step ladder and tie it down to the roof rack and just leave it there, that should fix the problem.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    No apology needed, I like the mystery of a cryptic message. It seems that some people don't want to get into the "nuts and bolts" of a problem, they just want it fixed, or else move on to something else. That's ok if you can afford it.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,204
    lat... don't apologize if you are trying to help even if it not recognized or appreciated by someone. if you have something you want to post, do it, even if it goes over most other's heads. many of us love our fords(all of them) although we do recognize there can be problems with them at times, and nobody likes to have problems. i noticed you rode ant14 pretty hard, maybe now i know why. personally, i appreciate his posts a lot. don't worry about the trolls, i would really enjoy your perspective, and i think many others would too.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • kye2kye2 Member Posts: 1
    Hi

    I have a 1998 explorer that recently had the auto and converter replaced at a cost of $AU3500 then had in back one day to find out the CRANK SHAFT SNAPPED has anyone out there heard of this happening? I've only owned the explorer for 1.5 years and are not very happy with this especially being fourth generation ford people and was thinking of trading the exp for a new teritory! Ford motor company have not been helful at all. So now i require a new engine and are looking at 5000+ NOT HAPPY....
  • lateralglateralg Member Posts: 929
    If the noise is a wind whistle, stop reading this post because it doesn't apply.

    If it's a lower-frequency resonance, where the bars themselves vibrate, I offer a solution that worked in my previous life. Fill the cross-bars with sand. I'm serious; this was a field fix back in the 60's.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    It's too bad on you misfortune. However, since you purchased this vehicle used, you really have no way of knowing how it was treated prior. Also, according to it's age, it probably has between 60,000 and 75,000 miles on it. How do you think Ford should be responsible on a used vehicle with this many miles?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    What Engine and transmission do you have?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I'm serious;

    It makes sense since you're changing the effective mass of a mechanical oscillator thereby changing its resonance frequency.

    tidester, host
  • sbexplorersbexplorer Member Posts: 2
    Since the rebuilt transmission was under warranty they ran the diagnostics which check ok. Then they found the front assembly seal need to be replaced which they did for free, changed the filters, and fluid. Most likely I need a V8 but they didnt take the opportunity to install a large transmission fluid cooler. Will keep an eye on everything. Thanks
  • opera_house_wkopera_house_wk Member Posts: 326
    Shift lever has no real distinct positions anymore. Wife was complaining that it was jumping out of park. With the cable disconnected from the transmission it is really sloppy feeling with no distinct detents. I adjusted the cable so park works better but the gear positions fall mid position. Anyone know of any plastic components that fail up in the column? This is the wifes daily driver and don't want to tear the dash apart for days on a fishing trip for the bad component. I can't be the only one this is happening to. This is not a transmission problem. There is a lot of play in the shift cable when it is disconnected from the transmission.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    and in other forums, i've read some vehicles had the cross-bars installed backwards (ie with the wrong leading edge pointing forward). if there is an obvious visual difference to the leading and trailing edge of the cross-bar, i'd compare to another vehicle, and try flipping them around.
  • 95vikesfan95vikesfan Member Posts: 3
    I have a 95 Explorer with 121K miles that has two separate vibrations, one at 35 MPH and the other at 50 MPH. Both occur only under power and go away when the accelerator is released. I've been told its due to front and rear axle/wheel bearings needing replaced ($2K-$3K), but I'd think it would vibrate all the time if that were the problem. Any ideas or suggestions?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Good point!

    tidester, host
  • tickedoff2tickedoff2 Member Posts: 11
    nvbanker, Thank you for your input, I am considering the possibility the servicing dealer could be the problem. If I do not get a reply soon to my certified letter to the dealer requesting a final attempt to correct this problem, I will be in agreement with you. I have received the return receipt but nothing else, the dealer signed for the letter June 25, 2005; I requested their response be in writing and if they refuse the request, why. I have been told what FoMoCo's position is concerning my vehicle by both a regional rep and the customer relationship center. Also, I have been told FoMoCo has recently limited the dealers discretion concerning warranty work; there has been some mention of this in some of the forums also. How long ago did your dealer correct your problem?

    Respectfully,

    Tickedoff2
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    Well, I've been around cars for awhile, and I have yet to hear of a car that needs four new wheel bearings at the same time.

    Its much more likely you have a u-joint problem. You don't say if you're 2wd, 4wd, or awd.

    But I'd suggest getting another opinion. Try a shop that works on driveshafts ( try driveshafts in yellow pages). Or a four wheel drive shop.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    March or April, I believe. Not that long ago. They were so accomodating, I was perfectly willing to let them put the additive in and see if it helped first, but my S/A just said, "No, yours is too far gone, we'll rebuild it for you and get you a car". So I let them. It's been perfect ever since. And as far as too far gone - it did occasional bad engagements into reverse, but they were infrequent, and it did tend it miss an occasional shift, then slam into gear. But again, it was sporadic. I've had much worse in the past. They couldn't have been better about it, so if Ford didn't balk at mine, why should their position be different on yours? Something is fishy.
  • 95vikesfan95vikesfan Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the input. I'll look into universal joins and the driveshaft. The vibrations occur in both 2wd and 4wd, although the vehicle is run almost always in 2wd.
  • broncoguy1broncoguy1 Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I am new to the site. I own a 2002 ford explorer as well and I had the same thing happen to me, It turned out it was my drivers side rear wheel bearing and hub assembly. Since then I check my bearings regularly, and noticed the rear passenger bearing has some play in it, is there a real problem here? why has Ford not done a recall on these like they did on the Ford Focus? The Bearings are not cheap either. Can some one help?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Never heard of such a thing before....... That's crazy. How many miles on it?
  • ideas_userideas_user Member Posts: 1
    Hello all. I have a problem with my 1999 V8 Mercury Mountaineer that I had into my dealer once and they weren't able to figure out. The problem is that this only occurs once the engine is heated up after a 30 minute drive. The said it’s really not worth bringing in at this point if it doesn’t do it all the time due to it could cost me allot of money ($85/hr) in diagnostic time trying to figure it out. When I step on the gas, sometimes, it doesn’t do anything. If I’m going around 40 MPH on a country back road and step on the accelerator hard, the RPM will go up, around 4,000 RPM, but it’s like the truck doesn’t kick into gear, it doesn’t take off. Then, if I’m at a light and go to take off, it doesn’t go. The way I get around this is that I have to let off the accelerator and then step back on it and this seems to work. Now this doesn’t do it all the time, but occasionally and only after it is warmed up for thirty minutes. I only have a 30 minute drive to work, but my worry is that we will be leaving for vacation in a few weeks which is a 3-4 hour ride and it will leave us sitting, because the problem does get worse the longer the engine runs. Any help in heading me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  • theta1theta1 Member Posts: 4
    What if you have more than 70k?

    I just bought a 2000 Ford Explorer Sport with 75k miles. Should I get the timing chain tensioner replaced?

    Thanks for info.
  • kneisentkneisent Member Posts: 1
    Could anyone tell me where this is VZV valve is located. I seem to be having the same problem but I checked and am not getting any power to the fuel pump. The relay under the hood is good so I am losing power somewhere between the relay and the fuel pump. Any suggestions?
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    Ford should have a record of warranty work done on the truck. If any of the timing chain tensioners were replaced and the truck is not making unusual rattling noises when you first start it up when the engine is cold, you should be ok. I know that Ford did begin to produce the SHOC V6 with revised tensioners, made of metal, but you would have to take the truck in to a Ford dealer or call Ford customer service to see if the VIN of your Explorer puts the truck in the at risk category. Since the recall or extended warranty is for 7 years or 70k Ford may still replace the tensioners under warranty if there is a problem. It can't hurt to ask.
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    Well, whataya know. I found a shift lever indicator adjustment. Even talks about detents.

    Adjustments

    Remove the upper instrument panel steering column cover.
    Place the gearshift lever in the position.
    Rotate the gearshift lever clockwise until it bottoms out (first gear), then rotate two detents counterclockwise (D) position).
    Hang a 3.6 kg (8 lb) weight on the gearshift lever.

    Center the pointer in the middle of the 19 position.
    Rotate the thumbwheel located on the bottom of the steering column to adjust the pointer.
    Remove the 3.6 kg (8 lb) weight.
    Carefully move the gearshift lever from detent to detent and compare with the transmission settings.
    Readjust if necessary.
    Install the upper instrument panel steering column cover.

    This gets you started. The instructions will probably be a bit clearer when you are looking at it. They are not the best.
  • kegjegkegjeg Member Posts: 4
    Hi, When i shut off my 03 explorer, the radio is supposed to keep playing and the electric windows will continue to work until you open a door. This has worked until last week. Now when I turn it off, the reminder to remove your keys starts dinging until you remove them. I can not leave the keys in the ignition because it will ding indefinitely. Any ideas/

    Nate
  • ptruckleptruckle Member Posts: 4
    hi iam a new member and in the uk ,and i need some serious help or advice on my transmission problems,when driving i get some serious clunking and thumping and the car feels like the suspension has has seized and when i accelerate there is some serious noise all on the left side ,hold on it gets worse sometimes when i stop for fuel or go visit someone i start the car and it drives perfect and will continue so untill i stop. ther is no noise and it drives like new,start of again and the clunking and banging starts again,i have looked at all the obvious ,bearings ,driveshafts,prop,mountings ect and all are perfect and no play anywhere,this leads me to think that it is a electrical problem,i say this as how can i drive 300 miles with everything just perfect cruise control on and cruising at a steady 90 then pull in for gas and as i pull away there is some serious noise and a eneven ride this could continue for days then out of the blue everything is back to normal,i have cleaned as many contacts as i can find ,the car is a 98 4.00ltr v6 four door,can someone please help me? :sick:
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    02 4x4 V8
    rear end leaking again after several fixes. each time i would hear the whine first and then would see the leak. each time after the dealer has replaced the seals (which the service advisor said was the problem) the noise would dismiss along with the leaking problem. however, is it really the seal that's causing the whine and leak? now here is something interesting... i can recall that everytime after i loaded the truck up with something (1st time i helped a friend move, 2nd time i loaded 45 bags of wood barks with 15 bags each trip, and the 3rd time i loaded the truck with 10 bags of potting soil), the rear end would start leaking. my question is... am i stressing the rear end axle by doing so? i certainly thought the truck could handle a MUCH heavier load than that! :confuse:
    anyway, just got the car back from the dealer, and i sure hope that if this is going to happen again, let's please be within 12k miles so the dealer will have to fix it again for free under the 12k mil warranty on new parts! :P
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    alman08: Yes, you can pull a heavy load with that Explorer. The combination of the V8, Transmission and rear Axle is supposed to be very strong. I have a 1997 XLT and a 2000 XLT, both with You did not mention WHERE the leak was coming from, but since it was whinning and then leaking in each case, I would assume the two are directly related, likely the pinion seal was where the leak was at. The only other points of leakage would be the rear cover or the axle seals. If there is a problem with the pinion bearings and they develop play, this will cause the pinion gear to misalign with the ring gear and make the whinning sound. The play in the pinion bearings will allow the pinion gear shaft to wobble, which causes the pinion seal to fail and leak. The whole thing is simple to fix correctly, but must be done by a pro. I've built several of these rear axles, but I can't get into the nut and bolts of it here. When those rear axles are properly set up and properly lubed, they should give well over 200,000 miles of reliable troublefree service. The secret to them doing that is being SETUP correctly, and LUBED correctly. You are having failures because the rear axle has not been set up correctly. The proper SYNTHETHIC lubricant must be used, and be sure the rear axle is full up to the fill hole. Unfortunately, you are having to deal with the dealer, so you will have to stress again to them that you need it fixed correctly, and that you might devulge some information that you have heard, like the pinion bearings are real critical to the operation of the real axle and the seal.
    I have posted about this subject before, try searching for the posts below:
    #1251 99 Explorer Rear Ends by bigalds on 03/02/2002 can't remember which forum.
    #2151 Comments on Ball Joints & Rear Axles to all by electricdesign on 12/31/2004 on the Ford Explorer/Mercury Mountaineer forum
    (those where some of my previous screen names)
    Good Luck
    E.D.
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    There are many post here about bad differentials on the newer Ex's. They are having problems with them. I would load the car up and see if it fails again.

    My guess is that since you have heard the whine several times your pinion gear and ring gear are now highly suspect (bad). The pinion gear is supported by a bearing - I think that bearing is worn / damaged, and is causing the seal faillures. Stressing the rear pinion bearing ( which is what you are doing when you put a lot of weight in the vehicle) apparently causes enough movement to damage the seal.

    If that is the case, the ring and pinion gears will be wearing incorrectly and you will get early rear differential failure.

    I would be talking to the service manager at this point. Multiple seal failures is not normal, and you need to let them know you are aware that these differentials are having problems. Certainly, if it occurs again, I would not accept only the seal being repaired. That is just the symptom, not the problem. Multiple rear seal failures would be enough reason for a service manager to approve more extensive work.

    Next time, I would insist on a differential rebuild.
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    Actually, your description sounds to me like a bad motor mount.. Clunking and thumping are typical descriptions of what happens when you shift into gear and your motor mounts are bad.

    Also, "suspension seizing" - I think you are feeling the engine move.

    Have a mechanic check your motor (and transmission) mounts. You must do more than a visual check to be sure they are good.
  • rt2rt2 Member Posts: 1
    04 Mountaineer - big clunk at crusing speed at 70mphJust this afternoon cruising my 04 Mountaineer v6 (24k miles) at around 70mph and all of the sudden there was a big clunk coming from I believe the transmission. It felt like as if it was trying to change gear as it did give it a little jerk. This is the first time this happens and I can not seem to duplicate it. Due to the popular reverse delay\clunking problem that has been going around with the 02-04 explorer, I had recently taken it to the dealer to have them replace the solenloid.

    However, the incident this afternoon led me to believe there is apparently still something isn't right about this transmission. This really worries me....
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    thanks guys, i will mention that to the service mgr again since right now i don't see any leak but i still am hearing some whining especially when driving between 35-40mph.
    electricdesign, it seem to be leaking from the middle of the rear diff, but then the dealer said it was the left seal, then the right seal, then the left seal again...
  • jeffb66jeffb66 Member Posts: 1
    I look forward to hearing what progress other people make with this a/c chirping noise. I bought my 2005 Explorer XLT just a couple of weeks ago and the chirping started practically immediately. I'll be mentioning this to my dealer when I take the truck back to the shop for another warranty repair in a week or so. With less than 400 miles on the vehicle a sensor inside the gas tank developed a "hiccup" (service manager's terminology, not mine) and must be replaced. Of course it's going to take a couple of weeks for the part to come in. Now the gas gauge works part of the time and the "Service Engine Soon" light is on constantly.

    Another "odd noise" I have noticed is a whine that comes and goes when accelerating from low speeds. It's there mostly when I start moving from a dead stop and I gradually accelerate until I reach a higher speed and then it goes away. It almost sounds related to the transmission. Sometimes it's louder than other times. I would be interested in hearing if anyone else has noticed this noise.
  • cartrouble1cartrouble1 Member Posts: 1
    I too have had trouble (actually replaced!) my hub & bearings on my '02 Mountaineer! No, they are not cheap by any means. A mechanic friend said that he could actually make a living on just Explorers & Mountaineers hub & bearing replacements! What gives?! Not sure why they don't recall them - all that I have been hearing are stories with similar problems. Actually took mine in this morning for more work!!!
Sign In or Register to comment.