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There's a good chance it could. If a plug fires during the intake stroke of one cylinder, it can adversely affect the mixture going to a cylinder that is about to fire.
Please give all the information on your vehicle, Year, Engine, Trans, and exactly what the complaint is. If you Really want to learn to repair it yourself, first get good data, like an Alldata subscription on your vehicle, Then get all the tools you need, OR just put in a used Rear axle assembly or take it somewhere to get it done, like most people do. If you decide to get into it yourself, pull the back cover off to see what your are getting into. Just replacing the lubricant will cost over $45. By having the back cover off, you can check for play in the carrier bearings and check the ring gear to pinion gear backlash. You will then have a much better idea of where you stand, and you can then decide to back out of it and just put the cover back on, OR you can continue to go on into it. If you can sucessfully complete this project, you will be leaving the realm of the "home mechanic".
If you need help, just write.
Good Luck,
E.D.
You originally had a misfire on #6, then replaced plugs and wires and got a report of a misfire on #3, but now the plug wires for #1 and #6 were reversed on the coil.
I don't know how your vehicle ran ok for 3 or 4 days in this configuration, then started having problems with misfire. Seems like there is more to this story.
No real explanation......
My local dealer indicated that any repair expenses would be my responsibility.
I have noticed several messages with the same issue.
Who can we contact to voice our opinions.
What to do? If you can't do the work yourself, contact a good service shop, it is best to find a gear shop that speciallizes in rear axles and gears. There are a few around. There is a good one in St Pete and a good one in Clearwater, Fl. The only thing to do is to fix it right, or else get a new rear axle gearbox, or a quality rebuilt gearbox. It's a lot of money any way you go. You can also get quality rebuilt ones from Jasper, that come with a warrenty. They will ship it to you. Find them on the Web.
Good Luck.
E.D.
Thanks for the explanation. I knew the rear-ends were of an improper design, but your summary really helps!
To everyone who reads these posts, if you are still under factory warranty, shop the net and get a FORD BACKED WARRANTY. The cost of the rear-end (not if it goes bad-but when) will more than pay for the extended warranty. Also, if you choose to later get rid of the vehicle, the remainder can be cancelled and you will get a refund! :shades:
Some years ago I worked for a manufacturer of custom built fire apparatus; we built everything from pumpers, aerial ladders, crash trucks, brush breakers, and other special design fire fighting vehicles. This equipment was expensive and had an anticipated service life of twenty-years except in major cities where the apparatus might go into reserve status earlier. The company had gone public and the holding company eventually started micro managing. At a staff meeting one of the "hot shots" from corporate headquarters ordered that we design to "Detroit standards" that was seven years for commercial chassis. That was the handwriting on the wall for me, I left the company, two years later there was a big brass padlock on the door. A rhetorical question: what do you think is going happen to the aluminum differential case in my 2004 EB 4.0L SOHC 4X4 Explorer having a transmission that sporadically has delayed violent engagement when shifting from drive to reverse and from reverse to drive? Just touching the accelerator triggers this action, at times it causes the driving tires to break traction on clean dry pavement. Mine was one of those that had the wrong tranny fluid installed at time of manufacture that mistake resulted in TSB 04B22 being issued. There has been four attempts to correct my problem without success, FoMoCo now refuses to do any further warranty work to correct the problem; vehicle has less than 12,000 miles and was one year old yesterday. I have a few postings about this subject on some previous pages.
Respectfully,
Tickedoff2
E.D.
You're gonna have more complaints per topic, since they sell the most of these. Your 4-runner may be more reliable over all, but it's a real truck to drive. The Pilot, OTOH, is a minivan underneath, dependable, but not too tough. I wouldn't buy a Nissan right now, too many Peugeot parts in them. I still feel the Explorer is the best value and design for me. Some of us are happy.
Warrenty does not want to cover it nor does Ford.
I am trying to find out how to talk to a Ford Rep.
I will let you know what I find out! And can you do the same.
I agree, the Explorer is a good value. The quality and cost cutting is another issue. How in the He** does the wrong transmission fluid end up being put in at the factory? How does a bad solenoid get designed? How does a faulty rear-end happen? Why does it take two and three trips to the dealer (for most of us) to get something fixed? Why are dealers hesitant to just order the part in the first place and fix it?
I currently have my '05 Taurus (company provided car) in for repairs at the dealer. The front end at 25,000 miles was making noise. Guess what? The vehicle needs a front axle/hub assembly. C'mon!! This car has 25,000 miles on it. They have been making this car for years and years!! No wonder people are buying Camrys!! Give me a break!! :confuse:
thanks
I believe the first time they even replaced the whole computer unit. Then later they would replace the sensors, I believe. I asked what the charge was going to be when it was off warrantee since it was an inherit problem with the car. "Oh, no- it's just routine wear and tear" and I would have to pay for it. Maybe about a year ago, I was on some web site and a fellow expressed the same problem and I believe he did what I did finally- Ignored it. I've had the light on the last 20,000 miles or so. I'm an old fart anyway and if I got into an accident I would probably instinctively pump the brakes anyhow- not what you're supose to do with ABS.
I had a "thump" several times with the transmission also where it seemed to slip into gear. Finally at about 61,000 miles, I took it in to my personal mechanic and asked him to change the transmission oil. He also repaired a small leak in the differential seal. The transmission slipped just as bad as before and I brought it back to the mechanic an had him check the level again. He did and said it was a quart short although they had even taken it for a test drive and checked the level after the initial change.
I believe sometimes some of these transmissions may form an air pocket or something and may not be filled properly. I know that some ways garages use to change the trans oil doesn't completely change it all. The Explorer has been fine since.
Please understand that I am satisfied with everything about my Explorer except for the unacceptable transmission operation; otherwise it is light years ahead of my ’97 Explorer. I cannot overemphasize the violence of the engagements; it is much like an Allison HT series converter lockup clutch accidentally engaging with a four-hundred HP diesel ahead of it running at 1000-1200 RPM. Yes, these things happen when converter driven PTO’s electrical safety lockouts fail, in combination with operator error.
Respectfully, Tickedoff2
My dealer fixes mine no muss, no fuss - the dealers are way different from place to place. In my town, the local Ford dealer is just horrible, and always has been, but the Lincoln store across the street does quite well. Picks him up a lot of business when he fixes Fords that his competitor won't fix, or screws up. But how much actual control the manufacturer has over the dealers is debatable.....
I appreciate your honesty. It just seems to me that the tide is changing, and it doesn't look good. Both GM and Ford have to come up with a gimmick to sell their SUV's. The latest is the "Friends and Family".
It would seem the "perceived value" of what General Motors and Ford produces is plummeting.
Back to topic. I think that the problems with bad transmissions, rear-ends, etc. is inexcusable. And as I stated above-it's starting to affect the bottom line...BIG TIME!!
the truck has alot of clunks,one i am pretty sure i know whaere it is coming from but i am looking for someone i can email a pic of the part to and can hopefully whay the name of it is and the easiest way to fix it. i know i sound like a complete idiot right now but i do know a little about vehicles and how to fix them but im lost when it comes to suspension and that stuff.so if anyone would be willing to let me email them a pic of the part and just tell me anything they could about it that would be a great help. my email is p1979l@gmail.com,please let me know if you could try to help,thanks phil
Why don't you just post the pic here? Click on "Forums Help" over on the left to learn about posting pictures.
tidester, host
Last week on the day I filled up I noticed gas smells coming from an unknown source while sitting at a traffic light. My wife noticed it at first but I scoffed at her since she is sensitive to any car problems and sometimes when driving by a home being roofed she will smell the melting tar and say, “What is happening to the Explorer I smell something burning!” Anyway you get the picture but much to my chagrin she was right.
Let me add to the conditions the fact that it is very hot in Vegas right now with afternoon highs being around 115 and I had a full tank of gas. The next day in the afternoon I was driving stop and go in the heat and same thing. I stopped and looked under the hood but could not detect anything I checked the gas cap and on tight but could smell gas.
I drove home and parked. The next morning before leaving I opened the hood and looked around and finally spotted under the front of the car a spot on asphalt that was obviously eaten away by gasoline. Then I looked to where I had parked the night before and another spot right where the front of the engine would be slightly towards the driver side.
Later this third day I took the Explorer to a couple of repair shops who both were very busy and had no time for at least a day. BTW by now my tank was down to a little less than ¾ and the gas smell had gone away even in the hot afternoons and there were no more gas spots on the parking areas where I live.
Now to me a leak is a leak and don’t go away? A friend in California I talked to suggested it might be my gas “vapor recovery system canister”. I looked and don’t see such a device which was quite obvious with some other vehicles I have owned.
Any thoughts as to what it might be???
:confuse: lweston
Especially if the gas you're putting in is at 65 degrees (ground temp around here), and soon it's over 115 degrees, because your cars engine and the asphalt are about 150 degrees. Gas swells a lot when it gets hot, in other words.
I'm from Europe and my company will soon buy 2 Ford Explorers 2005 for me and another colleague (as a company car) . I know that in US the accent is put on the power but i browsed the internet for 2 weeks to find the top speed of this car. This "parameter" is not shown anywhere.
I previously owned an European Ford Focus (1.6L engine / 100HP) who reached maximum of 200Kmh (it was the maximum) ...and right now i'm curious about the top speed of the Explorer (btw it's the 4.0L engine version - XLT).
If anyone has this info please let me know. Thanks !
I talked to a local mechanic yesterday (a friend of a friend) and without looking at the car said to replace the gas cap. His reasoning was that the cap should vent when reaching a certain pressure and if I had a leak when the tank was full but not when there was enough room in the tank for expansion it was not venting properly.
Although I was not completely satisfied with the answer it was the first answer anyone had given me. Your comment reinforces his.
I asked about the vapor recovery canister and his thoughts was the tank pressure probably forced fuel through that canister since the cap did not vent. Hmmmm
Since a cap is $5 to $8 bucks not a lot to loose in trying the solution. I guess then fill it up! (just not top it off)
Any thoughts and/or suggestions?
Thanks, rjf3
Exactly which V6 engine do you have, the OHV or the SOHC?
How many miles?
"I went to start it up and nothing" Does that mean the the starter engaged, the engine turned over, but did not start,
OR does that mean there was no click, no starter engagement?
If no starter, how is the battery charge? Do the headlights come on and stay brite when trying to crank the engine?
If it turns over, does it seem to turn over fast enough? Got fuel? Check ignition for spark. Has fuel filter been changed? Try a new one if not sure. Check fuel pressure while cranking.
Fuel filter should be changed every 30,000 miles or every 2 years, whichever comes first. A good way to remember is to change fuel filter, and flush & bleed the brake lines at the same time you get the automatic transmission fluid flushed & filter changed every 30,000 miles (30k, 60k, 90k, 120k, 150K, 180k, 210k).
"I really do not have the expendable cash to be constantly repairing this vehicle"
Try not to get depressed about it, it may be a simple fix. Try to budget some money to set aside to keep this vehicle running. All vehicles need repairs eventually, especially when they get older. A 10 year old vehicle will start needing more parts replaced, other than normal maintenance items, like brakes, suspension parts, tires and light bulbs. You will maybe need window motors($70 ea), alternator(150), starter($150), air conditioner (big bucks $600 or more for major repair), radiator($200), oxygen sensors ($50 ea) and those are just the PARTS prices for doing it yourself. Having those parts replaced by a mechanic will cost you AT LEAST twice as much. I buget $100 a month to maintain my 2000 XLT doing ALL the work myself, and the older they get, the more you have to budget, a 1995 may need $140 to $150 or more a month if the transmission goes out. The Best insurance is a good maintainance program & use a good synthetic motor oil and a good synthetic motor oil filter every oil change, and keep ALL maintenance up.
I use Mobil One Synthetic motor oil and a Purolator Pure One Synthetic motor oil filter every 7,500 miles. I've been doing that for many years on several high milage vehicles and never had any engine problems (91 Exp, 93 Exp, 97 Exp, 99 Blazer, 2000 Exp).
Good Luck
E.D.
Rob