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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    While you're waiting for a reply here you may find some useful tips in SUVs for Beach Sand.

    tidester, host
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,147
    A reporter is interested in speaking with people who used to own a Ford Explorer, but have since traded it in for a different vehicle. If you’re a former Explorer owner and would be interested in speaking with this reporter, please send your name and daytime phone number to Pam Krebs, Edmunds.com PR, at pkrebs@edmunds.com by Thursday, July 28.

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  • mereddameredda Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I'm new to these forums. Took a quick look, but could not find an answer that I need. I hope you can help. I have a 2001 Mountineer (Explorer in disguise), with the V8 engine. I took it on a long road trip over the weekend (400 miles), and had no problems with it. However, when my wife went to start it this morning, it started, but as soon as she engaged reverse, the engine died.

    She tried this a few times. Each time it started ok, but as soon as she put it in reverse - it died. She tried idling the engine for a few minutes, but the same problem. Eventually, after about idling for 10+ minutes it was ok. There is not a lot of gas left in it - but it says about 55 miles - and it's not on a steep slope or anything (plus it starts when she turns the ignition).

    Anyone heard about this problem with Explorers?
  • mtnman1mtnman1 Member Posts: 431
    I have a 2004 Mountaineer V-8 w/AWD. My car started the chirping soon after I bought it. I have had the Clutch assembly replaced and then when that didn't work had the Clutch re-gapped. Neither worked. I have had it in for this 4 times and it still has not been resolved. They even sent a Regional Customer Service Rep up form Cincinnati to my dealer in Columbus and it happened to be a cool spring day. It would not chirp. Now that it's hot and muggy the chirp is driving me nuts. I love this vehicle, but to buy a car with a MSRP of almost $38,000 and have to live with this is ridiculous. I've gotten to the point where I'm just trying to ignore it by having the radio on or the fan blower on a higher setting. Let me know if you ever get yours resolved.
    2012 Highlander Limited AWD V6 and 2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid SE
  • broken2broken2 Member Posts: 1
    I have only owned my eddie baur for 5 months.It has 72000 miles and drives well except for this horrible noise that you could hear a block or 2 away as your driving.I thought it may be the brake shoes but it seems to be the drive train and has a small leak that looks like transmission fluid.It has a sealed unit.Now the check engine light is on and its going to ford today.

    Another problem occured while i was driving. I turned on the a/c and noticed that the fan would not turn on then it started to smoke up inside and out so i stopped and it seemed to be a blown fan motor.I unpluged it so it would not catch on fire.

    What the heck is going on with this vehicle.Nothing but problems lately.Thank god for the warrenty i purchased because i do not have the money for this beast. :mad:

    If anyone knows of the problems i'm having could you please give me your opinions.Thanks
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    Maybe the Idle Air Control valve. These can cause starting issues.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    A little more info about your explorer would be good to know. It sounds like you have Traction Control, which would do pretty much what you described if you had wheels spinning out of speed with the others. The brakes would indeed be applied. Traction control isn't good in loose sand. You should turn it off I believe in that type of application. It's good in snow and ice.
  • redexploreredexplore Member Posts: 3
    No, I don't think the truck has traction control. That would just be too easy. I was thinking that there was some sort of standard , automatic type system that came with the truck but I guess not.Something is going on up front to turn on the ABS . I am finding out that there are 2 different sensors on each front wheel but have not been able to confirm that they would cause this. Thanks
  • fzapperfzapper Member Posts: 1
    My daughter has a 1997 Ford Explorer with A4WD. The mechanic says the front diff is trashed and will cost at least $600 to fix.

    We live in a part of the country where you almost *never* need 4WD. My thought is remove the front half-axles and front driveshaft and drive it as a 2WD. The mechanic advises against this without giving a specific reason (because he wants the money?)

    Will it hurt the xfer case to drive it this way? After reading some descriptions of A4WD it looks like the A4WD works by applying front/rear drive clutches to proportion the 4WD. I don't know what type of sensor (speed vs torque) is used for
    this, but in the worst case just switch to full-time 4WD and the front clutch spins (unloaded) while the rear is just locked in (as in a standard 2WD) but no power is delivered to the front axle.

    Thanks in advance!
  • pt1pt1 Member Posts: 2
    Is anyone aware of any problems with the 2005 Explorer. Please let me know as I'm thinking of purchasing today - because of incentives. Any feedback will help.

    Thanks.
  • fordexp1fordexp1 Member Posts: 14
    I purchased an 05 Explorer E.B. V6 in January. Everything works well and drives great, except for the gas mileage. If I were to buy one again...I would buy the V8 engine. My business partner bought almost the identical car with the V8 and his gas mileage is even better than the V6, plus a little more fun to drive. Great car for the money!!!
  • pt1pt1 Member Posts: 2
    I thought the V6 would have better gas mileage than the V8. I'll keep that in mind. Why did you choose the E.B. model.

    Thanks.
  • rr5336723rr5336723 Member Posts: 1
    Rear end started to "hmmm" at 39,000 miles. Just out of warrantee. Took it back to Ford dealer at 50,422 miles, who replaced all the differential bearings. All the bearings were "pitted". Ford warrantee this procedure for 12,000 miles. Differential again started to "hmmm" again, not bad at first but began to get louder. Unfortunately I moved some 800 miles in the mean time. Took the SUV back to another Ford dealer at 57,641 miles, who then said the problem was axle hub bearings. Both were replaced at no charge. However I still have the "hmmm" but it is constant on the pulling side of the differential and growing louder. Dealer now states the it is the ring and pinion and Ford will not warrantee the ring and pinion. I have owned Ford's all my life starting with my first Ford in high school, a vintage '37. Never had a differential go out on any vehicle Ford or General Motors. Now at 58,000 miles I am stuck with this HOWLING SUV. and no where to turn. NO MORE FORD's
    P.S
    Now I am hounded by FORD to buy an extended warrantee for $2600 Hyundai's are looking good with a 100,000 mile warrantee.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    "My business partner bought almost the identical car with the V8 and his gas mileage is even better than the V6"

    The moon and the stars must be in alignment. The V8 does not get better mpg than the V6. The V8 MAY get 1or 2 mpg LESS THAN THE V6-but it doesn't get better- no way.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Wellllll, chuck - there are certain conditions where my V-8 actually does do better than the V6's I've had before. They are rated pretty closely anyway, and if you are driving the truck hard - the V6 works so hard to keep up, it uses more gas than the V-8 will to do the same job, because it doesn't have to work so hard. If this guy is on the gas hard all the time, the 8 may actually do better. If you drive them like the EPA does, on a dynomometer, you would be right.
  • broncomikebroncomike Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me about Roll-A-Long? Is it something special? Broncomike
  • comstockcomstock Member Posts: 1
    drag about the electrical, saw your tranny leak prob, I have a 94 also. Have you had any issues trailering any thing ? I pulled my boat home from the coast yesterday. When i got home noticed a steady leak ? steady heavy drip while running.
  • thecrimsontidethecrimsontide Member Posts: 6
    I had a similar problem in my 1997 Ford Exploer, except mine was with a bad front driveshaft, also a similar cost for repair (part alone was $600). I asked if I could just take it off. The mechanics explained it to me like this: Since I had an automatic all-wheel-drive system (called control-trac 4x4, the selector inside the car reads "auto" "4 high" and "4 low"), the truck will automatically try to send power to the front wheels only when the rear wheels are slipping (I can feel mine kick in even in rain). Because of this, not having any front drive shaft, or differental, will make the car in effect stall, because all the power is going to the front. When you lock in the 4wd, some goes to the rear maybe 50% or 65%, and gas mileage will tank since lots of power is wasted on the front of the car. Maybe it would be best to fix it. I found a reasonable part from a junkyard for $100 and saved a bundle, its been working for two years now with no problems. If you do this, be sure to inspect the parts and make sure they are good.
  • imjolynnsimjolynns Member Posts: 2
    I have a '97 M-Mountaneer and found the power steering has a screen in the bottom of the reservoir. I emptied it and removed all the 'crud' that was blocking the screen. Seems to have helped.
  • imjolynnsimjolynns Member Posts: 2
    On my '97 M-Mountaneer AWD 101000miles, I have a 50+ shudder/rumble that I am unable to get rid of. What was the symptoms of your bad drive shaft? I too have wondered if the frond drive shaft could be removed to help with my trouble shooting efferts. I have replaced: both front bearings, all shocks/struts, tires, lower ball joints, front/rear drive shafts balanced. I am up to the half shafts but do not get any of the low speed clicking. It feels just like a tire out of balance but have had this problem for 3 years and nothing changes with tire maintanance.
  • thecrimsontidethecrimsontide Member Posts: 6
    HELP!!! I've got a 97 Ford Explorer Sport, with 109,000 miles on it. Its been a great truck and this is the first time its ever acted up on me. A month ago, it wouldn't start all the time. Since then, I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, and it didn't fix the problem. Sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't. Replaced the coil pack, and spark plugs, still the same. Finally replaced the fuel relay switch, still it won't start occasionally. I thought the tune up did the trick, but a few weeks later the same problem occurred. Any thoughts on what would be wrong? I've heard it could be the security system? Thanks for any help!
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I doubt it's the security system. If that were active, it would lock out your starter. Is that what's happening? Or does it crank, just won't start up? If so, it's not your security system. But I've no idea what else it could be, you've changed everything.
  • thecrimsontidethecrimsontide Member Posts: 6
    I think the driveshaft would be the thing to check. Mine started this at 75, and over the course of the next several years the shaking and rumbling started at lower speeds, down to 45-50. I also checked my bearings, ball joints, and all checked out fine by my mechanic. Its easy \to check to see if your front driveshaft is loose is to crawl under it, find the driveshaft (I think we have the same design, its close to the drivers side) and see if you can spin it a little by hand. Mine would spin about an eighth of a turn by hand, then it would CLINK when the metal caught it. I had a loose joint that was causing this trouble. When I put the used driveshaft I got out of a junkyard in, I could NOT spin the driveshaft at all by hand. So do this check. Be careful about getting the part from the junkyard. The place I went to had 3 on hand, one was clearly loose already. If your mechanical, its an easy repair, took me a few hours to do in cooler weather and I took my time. Hope this hellps, let me know if you have any questions!
  • thecrimsontidethecrimsontide Member Posts: 6
    The starter engages and the engine turns over. But no starting. I was checking fuses, and the maxi fuse in the electical box under the hood shares the anti-theft circuit with the fuel pump circuit (so I can't just power down the anti-theft and bypass it). Are we sure that the starter wouldn't engage? Or does the security system shut down just the fuel pump (since they are wired together)? I've no idea either. The only other thing I can think of is that the ignition switch in the steering column is out of alignment????
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    Well, seems like you have fuel and spark covered

    Change out your idle air control valve on top of the throttle body. Its a very common problem on Ex's. 50 bucks or so at the parts store.

    Its an electrical solenoid that move a small piston back and forth to regulate the air to the engine at idle. Sometimes when they get old they stick. No air, no start. Next time, the solenoid does not stick, and you start ok.

    If the no start condition occurs after that, then you are into more advanced issues, like the key not being recognized, etc.
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    You might go to an a/c shop and have them put an aftermarket clutch on it to get rid of the noise if it really bothers you. JUst cause Ford can't fix it does not mean it cannot be fixed.

    Or you could be a real pain in the a?? to your dealer and work on them for awhile to put it in for free.
  • fordexp1fordexp1 Member Posts: 14
    First off, my V6 gets about 12- 14mpg in the city and my business partner has the V8 version and gets at least 12-14 if not 15 in the city. Now on long trips the V6 will get slightly higher, but the best mpg I have received has been 18.6 mpg and his V8 has gotten similar mpg on the road.

    This is comparing two almost identical Explorers. The only difference is that I did not get the trailer tow package(which should give me better gas mileage because I have a higher rear end, 3.55). The V8 has the 3.73 rear end for towing.

    I chose the Eddie Baurer because the car looked good with the tan on Dark Stone. Plus the few extras you get with E.B. make it well worth it. I have enjoyed my explorer but wish I had gotten the V8 engine instead.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    The first thing to state is what engine and transmission you have, since all Explorers are not created equal. I assume that you have the SOHC 4.0L 6 cyl and the transmission that matches that engine. Your post and others like that, are the reason I buy only V8 Explorers, The V8 engine is much better and stronger and so is the transmission. I've got a 1997 XLT with V8, now over 145,000 miles, (wifes vehicle) original engine and transmission, with NO trouble out of it, AND it runs perfectly and reliably like a new vehicle. AND DITTO on my 2000 XLT with V8, now over 114,000 miles, original engine and transmission, with NO trouble out of it, AND it runs perfectly and reliably like a new vehicle. I fully expect both of these vehicles to run way past 200,000 trouble free miles, no major problems. I can take the small problems like the multifunction switch, cruise control buttons, or EGR valve.
    Back to your problem, I'm not that familiar with that particular tranny, but I might be able to steer you in the right direction. Does the speedometer pickup sensor and plastic gear mount in a hole in an extension housing on the back of the transmission or in a hole in the transfer case? I ask that because the transmission output shaft sticks into the transfer case. The internal gears that I have see have been metal, and they engage the plastic speed sensor gear. Is the guy that replaced the transfer case the same guy that replaced the transmission? I would not go for this "the transfer case warranty doesn't cover plastic" stuff.
    About your 70 mph jolts, sounds like the torque converter lock up clutch is going in and out. When it engages, you should be able to see the Tach barely drop about 200 rpm. You can test it by driving steady at 60 or 70, watch the Tach with one eye (keep one eye on the road), lightly touch the brake with your left foot, while maintaining a steady throttle with your right foot. You should see the rpm rise a tiny amount as the torque converter clutch unlocks. Then as you maintain a steady throttle, you should see a slight rpm drop again, as the torque converter clutch engages again. Watch the Tach when you detect these random jolts and see if you can recognize the rpm change during the jolts. Other than that, take it back to the tranny guy to have him check it out.
    For more information and free advice from experienced mechanics who work on these every day, do a search on Google for "automotive repair forum".
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • srosesrose Member Posts: 1
    This is my first time using this site, so I am still figuring it out. I haven't had much experience with message boards, so I could use some help.

    Anyway, our problem wih our 98 Ford Explorer is that the turn signals have stopped working on all steering wheel postitions except if it is set at the very highest spot (does this make sense?). Anyway, it has progressively stopped in every other position and soon will in this one I am sure. We have already tried the flasher and that is not the problem. Then in addition, the driver's side lock is sticking. All the other locks come up, but sometimes the driver's side stays down and I have to do the auto locks several times to get out. Isn't this so bizzarre? My husband and I are SO NOT mechanics, by far no car (or car sales) experts, and we are currently pretty broke. There is no way we can afford a huge bill right now. We would just trade it in, but we are afraid that this will hurt the value.
    Any advise??????????? :lemon:
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Hi, srose!

    Welcome aboard! You don't have to "reply to a message" to create a new message. Instead, simply fill in the Message form at the bottom of this page and fill in a Title just above it.

    I'm sure others will be able to answer your questions directly but it would seem to me that the repairs shouldn't be all that expensive. I suspect that the lock problem is just a worn linkage clip (an inexpensive nylon part) which is easily replaced. Your turn signal problem also sounds like a worn part but requires a bit more effort to replace.

    Good luck!

    tidester, host
  • thecrimsontidethecrimsontide Member Posts: 6
    srose, for the door lock. My 97 started doing this a year ago, I simply doused the door latches on the back edge of the door, that goes from the floor to the roof with WD 40. Keep a rag with you, it will run down the door edge a little, and now it works great. Havn't had troubles since. Maybe it just needs to be lubricated! Can't hurt by trying, and its cheap!
  • wifemmwifemm Member Posts: 16
    My wife's 02 mountaineer had the same problem for a while, it would act up once every so often and wouldn't start, or it takes multple tries to start. The dealer reflashed computer etc but the problem does not go away. They finally called Ford and was told to replace Idle Air control valve, it's been good for over 8 months now.
  • explorerworiedexplorerworied Member Posts: 5
    I purchased a 2005 ford explorer about 3 weeks ago. The vehicle now has 824 miles on it and the fuel gauge has stopped working, with the message - service engine soon - lit up.

    I called the dealership about this problem, and was told the part is on back order. I am leaving for vacation early friday morning, and will be driving 4 states away. The dealership refuses to give me a rental car, stating that the vehicle has a digital reading for how much fuel is left. Is this safe???

    Any response would be appreciated. I'm travelling with three children, and this problem is worrying me...
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    if you have a V8, i would suggest filling the tank every 250 miles or so
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    just read the article in edmund titled "ford turnaround plan derailed..."

    anyway, aside from the health cost issue that it's facing, in my opinion, a good turnaround plan for ford is to build cars that won't fall apart so easily and start selling domestic cars at domestic price.

    let's take the explorer as an example. it's a well designed SUV. it looks good and it drives good (ok, that's only my personal opinion of course). but fact is, it falls apart so easily.

    and then the price... a fully loaded f-150 (ford's bread and butter) would cost so much more than a toyota thundra and a nissian titan (ok ok... they're also built here in the states, but still, japanese owned companies). shouldn't you think there should be an incentive in buying a domestic car in term of price (talking about base price excluding all the gimmicks on rebates and that sort)?
  • hart55hart55 Member Posts: 1
    Recently I started having problems with my 93 Ford Explorer. After running for awhile and then turning engine off the car won't start unless it cools down for an hour or so. Jumping doesn't start it. After tapping the casing of the starter under the car - it starts right up. Had a starter put in Nov 93 and another one June 2005. The problem is occuring again. Had the battery and alternater checked. They are fine.

    Has anyone had this problem and found a way to fix it?

    Thanks
    hart55
  • lateralglateralg Member Posts: 929
    " but fact is, it falls apart so easily"

    Please state some facts from a credible source.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Sounds like bad Starters, but need to check a little further. What kind of Starters are you putting on? You need New or Quality Rebuilt. Did they TEST the starter when you took them back? Did they test good or bad? What comment did they make about why the replacement starter failed? Make sure the starter is seated properly and is not binding. Describe this No Start situation a little better. By NO START, do you mean the starter and engine do not turn? Does it click or make any sound at all? Turn your dome light on, does it dim when you try to crank the engine? How much? Connect a test light between the starter battery terminal and the starter case and see if it lights up when someone tries to start the engine, during one of the No Start periods. How bright does it light up, full brightness or dim? If you have power, but you are not sure if you have enough voltage at the starter, check the voltage with a voltmeter between the starter battery terminal and the case, when trying to crank the engine. Volts should never be less than 9 1/2 volts when the starter is cranking, usually it will be higher if battery and cable are good, between 10 and 11 volts.
    Let us know what you find.
    Good Luck
    E.D.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Try this. You, or someone, should disconned the battery cable (negative, preferably) for a couple of minutes, and then reconnect it. This has the effect of "rebooting" the car's electronics. Fixed my Mountaineer right up, the fuel guage has worked perfect and the message center is now correct. I'll bet it will fix yours too. It was probably just a power surge that put a bug in the brain.
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    such as tranny problems and axle problems, cracked rear window component... just look at the TSB
  • peterwelchpeterwelch Member Posts: 1
    Sounds like a coolent leak into the cylinder. Cracked or warped head, or bad spot in the gasket. Fixable!
  • axsomaxsom Member Posts: 11
    I have just recently experienced a problem w/ my ABS. Light doesn't stay on after start up, only after using the brakes when going forward the first time. I check the manual - it states to have them serviced. Of course, the warranty ran out 7-3-05. I read someplace about asking the dealer for coverage when it is close to the end of the warranty as in this case, but I can't remember what the term is for this coverage. Does anyone know what it is called?

    Also, what was the cost for any of you having the ABS "services"? :confuse:
  • explorerworiedexplorerworied Member Posts: 5
    Thanx for the response.

    I took the explorer to the dealership this morning so they could run a diagnostics test on it. After that test, I was told I was getting a rental car, and would not have my explorer back for about three weeks! The instrument cluster is bad (?) and the vehicle can't (shouldn't?) be driven. There are three explorers in line in front of mine waiting for the same part. The oil change required indicator won't stop going off, the service engine soon indicator is on, and the ABS brakes light is on. Along with the issue of the fuel gauge working, then not working intermittently.

    I thought they tested all this before they put these vehicles on the road... what a major disappointment. I drove a dodge durango for four years before this vehicle, and didn't have this many problems.
  • 01explorerxlt01explorerxlt Member Posts: 2
    I have an '01 Explorer XLT that it seems, over time, has developed sticky door latches. All four doors require an exra "tug" on the handle to open the door.

    Also, the drivers door lock stick, and doesn't want to pop up - it takes multiple clicks on the key fob, while alternating on lifting the door handle.

    Any ideas?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    It's called an AWA - After
    Warranty Adjustment.

    The cost of servicing the ABS, depends upon what turns out to be malfunctioning.
  • jchasejchase Member Posts: 2
    I have a 94 ex that occationally stalls. It usually restarts in two or three minutes but today it took 15. anybody have suggestions?I have replaced the icm fuel filter and the fuel pump is two years old. the truck has 150000 miles. :confuse:
  • geminio17geminio17 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased my 2005 Explorer in April and I have 2500 miles now and my fuel gauge stopped working about a month ago. The dealer I took mine to said it was okay to continue to drive it.... maybe I should get a second opinion. The part of course is on backorder and the dealer states they waiting on 20 of them. I contacted Ford headquarters asking why there hasn't been a recall issued and they claim to have no knowledge of such a problem, that my complaint was the first they had heard of it.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Recalls are rarely issued if there isn't an imminent safety issue involved.

    Have you tried rebooting the truck? Disconnecting the battery, and then reconnecting it after a minute or two? That fixed my fuel guage, and haven't had any trouble since.
  • l2jl2j Member Posts: 2
    just within the past week my 1996 Ford Explorer XLT started acting strange. I leave the windows down when the car is in the garage and when I backed out of the garage and tried to roll them up nothing happened and didnt work with the switches on any of the other doors either. So I shut the car completely off and turned it back on and they worked again. Didnt think much of it until it happened again but this time I noticed while driving down the road that the lights in the console for the 4Wheel drive kept changing between 4wheel drive and 2wheel drive. I did replace the door lock mechanism for locking/unlocking the driverside door with the button or remote. But I was very careful and believe something else is going on. I am an Audi Tech and have been a Mechanic since 1974 but dont know how the American cars work exactly (mechanically yes, but wiring and computers no). And noone in my area seems to want to give me any advice they just basically snub me. Any help?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    While you're waiting for a reply here you may want to post your question to Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy.

    Good luck!

    tidester, host
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