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Comments
Any tips? Can I do this myself, or is there some type of surface prep I need to be concerned with before touching it up?
Thanks
sounds like something they call a "clock-spring". it is a device that maintains continuity in electrical circuits while the wheel is turned from one extreme to the other.
wires from the CC, horn and Air Bag probably connect to the clock-spring, and the clock-spring connects to one of the wire harnesses.
Steve, Host
regarding peoples transmissions issues, i have an '02, had the flush done at 30k. it was worth it. prior to that i had a reflash done, but that didn't seem to make any difference.
After you get them cleaned, see how it idles. If its better but sttil not right, then you probably would want to replace the IAC - it often causes poor idle. The fact that you were able to get it to start by giving it a little gas means it could be the IAC - this opens the throttle plate, and effectively bypasses the IAC. You do not have a check engine light, and that also points toward the IAC - they do not set a trouble code.
If the problem does not improve, you will be looking for another problem. Don't replace the fuel pump without getting a fuel pressure test - its over 200.00 Quite a few people try this , and it does not always fix the problem.
Start with the simple stuff, and work your way up.
POSSIBLE CAUSES
P0455
(1) LOOSE FUEL CAP
(2) EVAP CANISTER HOSE CRACKED
(3) PURGE OR VOLT SOLENOID DEFECTIVE
(4) VACUUM LEAK AT ENGINE
Anyone have a similar episode and could maybe point me in the right direction, what was your remedy..?
Checked cap--seems okay.
Evap hoses seem okay--hard to tell.
I havent checked #3 & #4 yet.
thanks everybody, Rich
GREAT SITE BY THE WAY...HOPE I'M HERE FOR A LONG TIME, AS I'M LOOKING TO PURCHASE THE NEWLY REDISIGNED AND LARGER SPORT TRACK...
If you pull the black cap off, the moosing will go away, but if you put your finger over the hole that supports the black cap, your XLS will sound like you just installed a moose horn. Hope this helps.
Sly
Yea, and if I am not mistaken-there is no mention of a fluid change for 100,000 miles either. Wait this long and you will have a piece of junk for a transmission. If the tranny is "sealed for life"- then Ford should warrant it for such. Unlike you, (and me) some people keep their vehicles for 150,000 miles plus- there is a chance they will leak (some-not a lot) and there is no way to refill these things. It is a really BAD IDEA- not to have a dipstick or a practical way to "top it off" if needed.
In the big picture I believe more transmissions fail due to contamination than leakage. Leakage can be detected. Contamination's warning is transmission failure.
"Wait this long and you will have a piece of junk for a transmission."
What is this statement based on? Hopefully it's based on fleet and durability tests on a large number of vehicles operating in a wide variety of duty cycles ... which is what Ford based their decision on.
There are millions of car with automatic transmissions that HAVE DIPSTICKS. The amount of contamination that would enter in to a dipstick is very, very small. There have been many on this board (including myself) that have drained and refilled this "sealed for life" transmission at 30,000 miles, and have noticed a greatly improved shifting of the transmission. So it would seem that "sealed for life" is flawed in real world driving.
My were getting "picky" here. This service was done at the dealer. You should know there is no way you can service this transmission in your driveway......
I have a V6 '98 Ford Explorer.
My brake lights don't work, but the collision avoidance light does, as do the back lights.
The doors lock, sometimes, when I use the turn signal.
Could my problem be the multifunction switch?
" ... There have been many on this board (including myself) that have drained and refilled this "sealed for life" transmission ...
I'm concerned that some of the do-it-yourself types could do the same.
The test drive was a good one accept for the brakes. He told me that the vehicle needed new brakes and they would fix it before the delivery. The break light was also on.
Any ideas why the break light was on? I have only 7 days to challange this contract. Any hint you can provide will help a lot. What else should I do to protect myself? They have also added 30 days powertrain warranty...
This is my first SUV please post alot of answers
Thank you very very much
Is anyone else having this problem? If so, do you have any repair suggestions?
Thanks for your concern...it's OK. I don't know if the "do it yourself" types can even work on this tranny. My local transmission shop says they even have to buy the fluid from the Ford dealer......
www.fordwarrantys.com
OR
www.fordwarranty.com
OR
Your local dealer.... :surprise:
MAKE THEM FIX the brakes OR RETURN THE VEHICLE!!!!
Steve, Host
Yes, he may be a little paranoid. However, a used car is a used car for a reason. I purchased a used Ford Contour a couple of years back. (I have owned a total of three.) And it had a problem that did not manifest itself until later. I bought it from a private party, hence no recourse. To make a long story very short-inspite of being looked at by the best mechanics and diagnosticians available-it couldn't be fixed, they could not find "the problem". I traded it in and lost over $2,000.00. You do get bad used cars... sometimes they can't be fixed, or they are very expensive to fix. IT happens........
Used cars.... buyers beware!!
Thanks for the encouragement. I'll be surprised if the solenoid cures by sluggish shifting. I'll let you know what happens.
Thanks,
Thanks
Also, my truck was dead a month ago,so I got a new battery. But I realized that the dash light for Direction/mileage is always either bright or half lit.while the rest of the Lights have NEVER had an issue Any clue what that's about? Sorry I know a lot of Q's here, but Im not good with cars at all really. My truck also idles at abou 6/700 tops,and seems shaky when Im stopped. Please Email me with any and all ideas, especially about the light as I had it checked and firestone said the comp. read everything OK electronically, but after a few weeks with the battery it's gone back to looking like the lights are dying?
alot of people telling me it's a torque converter, not the pump.
But thanks again :shades:
First and most obvious problem was a 1-2 second delay when selecting reverse gear before the harsh engagement of the reverse gear took place. The problem was confirmed at a Ford garage where they found that 'PCC stuck 45 psi when commanded 115 psi, then pressure would jump'. Trans pan and then valve removed and overhaul of valve found that 'check ball in bath tub smaller than it should be' They replaced the solenoid body and overhauled the reverse servo free of charge and everything was subsequently okay. This problem has been mentioned in case other Explorer owners are experiencing the same problem.
The second problem experienced upon purchasing the car was an intermittent 'knock' that was felt through the brake pedal when braking relatively hard. The braking always felt smooth with no 'snatch' and there was no decrease felt in the efficiency of the braking system apart from a single 'knock' felt through the brake pedal. This problem seemed to be rapidly decreasing in frequency of occurence, but I still felt concerned enough to take it to the Ford dealer for checking. The Ford servicing department later told me that they had been unable to reproduce the problem, but assured me that they had checked all the front end steering/braking system without finding anything wrong. I took the foreman out with me for a test drive and, after several heavy brakings (and the foreman getting car sick), we reproduced the problem. The foreman felt that it was glazing on the brake pads/discs causing the problem and so the brakes were dismantled and the pads and discs rubbed down to remove the 'glazing' before reassembly. The same problem later re-occurred - a knock felt through the brake pedal - and this time the foreman decided that new brake pads had to fitted. As yet, I haven't needed to do any heavy braking to find out if the same problem is still there, but I have no confidence that they have solved the problem. Surely, if there was slipping between the brake pads and discs as the foreman decided, I would have felt a 'jerking' feeling rather than a 'knock' through the brake pedal? Has anyone else ever experienced this problem. And I had to pay for all the rectification work for this problem.
I also have another intermittent problem in that whenever driving very slowly (particularly when reversing) and with the steering at or near full lock, I occasionally get another kind of 'knock' felt through the steering wheel this time, just as though one of the front wheels had run over a stone in the road. The Ford garage gave me some explanation which didn't make much sense but had something to do with the steering stops and grease being required. The same problem has occurred again since being looked at by Ford.
And then, as if I haven't already had enough problems with this car, I started to get the strange intermittent 'howling' sound that was so perfectly described in message #3758. The answer to the problem seemed to be explained in message #3876 and it would be appreciated if anyone could confirm that changing the expansion valve in the rear auxiliary evaporator has been the solution. As you can all guess, I am reluctant to put my car back in the hands of the Ford dealer without having a better idea of what the problems are caused by. Any helpful answers gratefully received.
Anyway, yes, switching the expansion valve out of the rear A/C evaporator should stop the howling.....
I wish you luck with this car. While they may change the oil, Hertz is not known for staying up on recalls and stuff. Takes the car out of service for too long, and if the car isn't rolling, it's not making money.
Good luck!
Thanks again for your input. Anybody else have any comments or recomendations!!!!!!!! Anybody?????????
Instead of making a decision based on either of these alone, calculate annual fuel cost for each vehicle you're considering. Gallons per year = Miles per year divided by miles per gallon. Fuel cost per year = gallons per year times cost per gallon.
This is a START in making a good purchase decision.
You know most European countries drive smaller cars and seem to get along fine.
Ford Focus City 26 Hwy. 35
Explorer City 15 Hwy. 21 (both figures from Ford.com)
There is a BIG DIFFERENCE if you do not need the capabilities of the Explorer.
It doesn't matter what the true difference is of the cost of gas is.... if you don't need the capabilities.