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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • fordexp1fordexp1 Member Posts: 14
    might want to check your engine mounts. just a thought, i had an older explorer and they went out and caused something similar to what you are describing.

    another thing I would recheck all the work that was done, maybe something was done correctly or was left loose.

    could be numerous things, alignment or balancing could be way off. check it all.
  • kt1kt1 Member Posts: 1
    Did the changing of the two switches (or just one) fix the issue? I have the same issue with my 1998. PLEASE HELP !!!! :)
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    You may want to get your transmission looked at. The flashing OD light is not a good sign.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    If you have another dealership in town, take it to them. It sounds liek something is going on in the front end. Good thing is you are covered up to 36k miles so it is covered by warranty.
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    how much are you guys paying for 60k service in your area? over here in northern ca, they go from $580 to $900!!!! and I looked at the list, it's all inspections and changing fluid!!!!!!! :sick:
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check out the Edmunds Maintenance Guide for what we think your 60k service should cost in your zip code.

    Steve, Host
  • dakduldakdul Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1998 ford explorer and having trouble with the radio display. radio works but have to guess on what station is playing due to the display lights not working. is this a easy fix?? short of getting a new radio??i also have a heater problem... heater is so hot and cant adjust it! have to keep heater on in ams to keep window defogged to see!!! are these related?? thanks to anyone with any sugestions! :cry:
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    I did and the quotes edmunds suggested were in the mid $300s, and I called all dealerships within 50 miles from here and NONE would do it for $300s. Therefore, I have no idea how and where edmunds got their data from.
  • tammy21tammy21 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I just read your message from Sept. 27. I have a 2000 Ford Explorer experiencing the same problems. Did you ever find out what was wrong with yours? Thanks.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Maybe all those dealer's 60k service include more stuff than required by the manufacturer.

    Edmunds looks at the manufacturer recommended service and then looks at the rate books to see what the cost should be. The fine print says:

    "*This Total Estimated Cost includes the preventive maintenance items recommended by Ford. The facility that services your vehicle may perform different, greater, or fewer procedures that can affect the cost you incur."

    YMMV (and obviously does - maybe you can find an independent mechanic and save some bucks?).

    Steve, Host
  • gman13gman13 Member Posts: 2
    SEVERAL MONTHS AGO I NOTICED A TINY BIT OF SMOKE QUICKLY COME FROM THE STEERING COLUMN AREA THAT QUICKLY DISAPPEARED. JUST RECENTLY THE ABS LIGHT WENT ON THEN OFF. SHORTLY THERE AFTER THE LIGHT WENT ON AND NOW REMAINS ON,CONSTANTLY. IT IS A FORD EXPLORER SPORT 2000. ANY IDEAS?
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    The small nuclear mushroom cloud from your steering column is almost certainly your multifunction switch. Pretty common problem on explorers.

    The ABS light is usually a wheel sensor not working right. There is a sensor on the rear differential which is a pretty common problem. To be sure, you will need to get the codes read.

    Good luck!
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    There is a fix for the radio display which is not real expensive. I think you can buy a used radio on ebay for about what it costs to fix. If you google explorer radio display repair I think you can find some places that talk about the fix.

    As far as the heater issue - condensation on your windshield may indicate a small leak in your heater core. Do you ever smell a kind of sweet smell? - that would be antifreeze. Do you have to add coolant? You may want to get that checked. Fixing a bad heater core is a big repair.

    Not being able to turn the heat off may be a problem with your controls, or it may be a problem with the valve under the hood that regulates the amount of engine coolant that goes thru the heater core. That valve is not too hard to replace, but you will want to confirm that is the problem.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Do you have polarized sun glasses on when this happens?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    The display on the radio can be replaced.
  • davidb5davidb5 Member Posts: 3
    No.
  • gman13gman13 Member Posts: 2
    THANK YOU
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    probably the multifunction switch wiring, mine had an issue. not sure how that could affect the ABS light, unless maybe you have issues with the clockspring wiring harness under the air bag.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    the first link in google is the process that I used, works well.
  • smercaldesmercalde Member Posts: 1
    Just curious if you every found a solution to this problem? I have an '04 and have been battling with the Ford dealership because they cannot get the problem to repeat when they have the vehicle. I am about at my wit's end.
  • jefferygjefferyg Member Posts: 418
    I had an '01 F150. While it was still pretty new the airbag light began blinking and eventually came on and wouldn't go off, although I never saw the smoke as you describe. I was told by the service manager at the dealership that the blinking light indicates some kind of code. The short of a long is that it was still under warranty and they replaced the whole airbag assembly. I never had any problems after that.
  • redhotrangerredhotranger Member Posts: 5
    My girl friend has a 92 ford explorer xlt, when ever we let it sit for two days, the battery is completely dead. i have replace the batter a few times in the past, but this problem is still happening. . Please, if anyone has any idea on what could be causing the problem let me know.

    thanks.
  • dmatt131dmatt131 Member Posts: 6
    Want to update you on my previous problem. The service manager ordered an expansion valve to replace the faulty one assuming that my vehicle had rear air since it was an EB edition. Well, guess what. my vehicle doesn't have the third row seat; therefore no rear air and no expansion valve. My vehicle doesn't have a front expansion valve. The AC system was 2 oz low with freon so maybe that was causing my problem. We don't know. I will be picking up my vehicle today and will keep all posted if the problem was corrected.

    Should there any further information on this subject please advise me. My service department is simply GREAT and willing to assist in any way to cure the problem.

    Thanks for all the help.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    No front expansion valve??? I've never heard of such a thing. My 03 Navigator sure has one, and it was defective, I have the paperwork to prove it. I don't know how you build an A/C system without an expansion valve, and have it work.

    Your service department is obviously nice - not sure how competent they are, but I'm glad you like them.
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    "My service department is simply GREAT and willing to assist in any way to cure the problem." I am glad that you trust your dealer's service department, but if they were that competent why did they order the wrong part for your car. Even Felix & Oscar knew to "Never ASSUME". Had someone in your dealer's service department looked carefully at your vehicle, they would have seen that your Explorer did not have rear air. If they were sloppy about that, who know what else they were sloppy about. Just because a service manager smiles and wears an impressive set of clothes that say: "I'm trained by Ford and I know what I'm doing" does not always pan out.

    Another way to look at your situation might be that your service department did not follow accepted procedure, assumed your Explorer had a bad expansion valve and ordered one because it would give them more money to charge to Ford. Why spend time doing diagnostics when Ford will pay the dealership more for multiple trips by the customer in order to correct a simple problem that might take some time to diagnose? If you think I'm being cynical, your right. I had my dealings with Ford dealership that made me that way. I am not saying that ther are no Ford dealership service departments that do a competent, honest job. There are, I think that in this case you are not dealing with one.
  • jfh1jfh1 Member Posts: 1
    This just happened to me last night. I have a 98 ford explorer. Did anyone find out the problem here. I was reading at another website that the problem could be with the reverse drive clutch value and replacement is costly. Did anyone else have this diagnose as the problem?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Your problem falls in one of two realms, either the battery is bad and discharges itself, or something in the electrical system is draining the battery.
    The FIRST step is to check and test the existing battery and electrical system. How old is the battery? Make sure battery is fully charged, then check the voltage across the battery with engine off, with engine at idle, with engine at fast idle, then repeat these three tests with LOAD on the battery (headlights on, A/C on, wipers on). The voltage should not drop to an abnormally low value. If it does, LOAD TEST the Battery. Charging Voltage at fast idle should be around 14 volts, 13 volts under heavy load. If charging voltage is low, check and repair charging system.
    If the Battery check OK, and the Charging System checks OK and all your Wiring Connections are OK, and the battery still dies after it sit for 2 days, then TEST for and EXCESSIVE PARASITIC DRAW on the battery. I have pasted the procedure below:
    Hard to gauge an old battery, sometimes new ones can quit on you too, and sometimes abuptly. They can fail in several ways:
    1. Slowly run down until all the power is drained from them, like an alternator failure, or headlights or a light bulb or other load left on when the car is parked for a period of time.
    2. Suddenly lose power due to an internal fault inside the battery, short circuit, open circuit or an electrolyte leak.
    Check, clean and tighten all cables, clamps and connections. Start engine (jump if needed), place voltmeter across battery terminals, volts should read 12.7 volts or higher at idle, 14 to 14.5 volts at fast idle. 15 volts or more is too high. Check the battery after FULLY CHARGING with a battery charger, to be sure it is charged as much as it will hold. Testing a battery with a low charge will fail even a perfectly good battery. Use a LOAD TEST to test the battery, follow instuctions on the LOAD TESTER. In general, the load is placed across the battery and increased until the battery volts fall to 9 1/2. Keep the battery on the load test the shortest amount of time possible, as the load tester can get very hot or overheat. A good 12 volt car battery should be able to maintain an AMPERAGE OUTPUT of ONE HALF OF it's COLD CRANKING AMPS RATING without dropping below 9 1/2 VOLTS. If it drops to 1/4 of it's cold cranking amps rating while under load at 9 1/2 volts, it is weak, and should be replaced.
    Next, if the battery test is ok, then you need to find what is draining your battery by checking "PARASITIC CURRENT DRAW" from your battery. Your car has electronic MODULES that draw current when they are first connected. After they "settle down", in about 2 to 5 minutes, the parasitic current drain on you battery should be down to about 25 ma (milliamps) (.025 Amp). Do the following test procedure, and if you find your draw is too high, pull fuses one at a time to see if you can isolate the source of the excessive current draw.PARASITIC CURRENT DRAW TEST:Start with a fully charged Battery. Turn everything in the car OFF, close the door, remove the light bulb from under the hood so that nothing you know of is on. Remove the negative cable. Place a 5 amp fuse & a 1 ohm/10watt resistor in series with the negative cable, then wait a few minutes to allow the modules to settle down, then proceed. Connect a Digital Volt/Ohm Meter across the resistor and do a simple voltage drop test. Results = for example, a .022v draw = a 22mA draw. When you have minimal computers/radios/etc a maximum of 25mA is optimal. If you have multiple computers/cell phones/alarms/etc expect a higher number to be normal, though the cell phones/alarms should be OFF for this test. Over 25ma should be investigated and Over 50ma should be corrected. Check manufacturers specs to be sure of what it should be for your vehicle.That ought to get you going for now.
    Good Luck,
    E.D.
  • osuexplorerosuexplorer Member Posts: 1
    My 03 V8 Eddie Bauer has a problem idling. When you come to a stop the motor surges like you are repeatedly depressing the gas petal. It oscillates between about 500 and 2000 rpm. The problem is very sporadic. Although today it stepped up its game and simply died as I stopped at a stop light. It re started right away and drove fine afterward. Does anyone have any ideas?
  • dominic2dominic2 Member Posts: 10
    I would be curious to hear other people's experiences as well. I have an 03 V8 XLT Sport. I have had the same problem manifest itself in several different ways on several occasions:
    A. Coming to a stop, it feels as if the clutch doesn't engage and my car tries to lurch forward until I put it in neutral (with my foot fully depressing the brake pedal)
    B. When I am at a stop and the light turns green, I realize the engine died (For no apparent reason) while I was sitting at the light.

    Anyone have similar experiences and solutions?
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    Two areas to look are are the throttle position sensor and the EGR valve. The throttle position sensor will require a VOM to check the resistance as you change the position of the throttle. You might be able to clean out the EGR valve and see if that resolves the issue. I had stalling at idle problems with my 99 XLT SOHV V6 that were resolved by cleaning out the EGR valve with WD40. If the diaphragm in the valve is not broken, that might do the trick.

    My 2c.
  • jajjjjjajjjj Member Posts: 1
    I also own a 1997 Explorer and have just started getting the knocking noise at 75,000 miles. Mine only does it when it is cold and goes away after it warms up. I have also taken it to my shop and they are unsure as well.
    This is my first problem with this vehicle and was thinking of buying another Explorer, until I read the problems that everyone is having with theirs.
  • gasburnergasburner Member Posts: 31
    I have a 99 Explorer, 5.0L V8 with 61K miles. I bought the truck new, and it has been a good vehicle; no major issues. Just recently I started noticing a strong ping/knock during hard acceleration on the highway, but I don't notice a significant loss of power. I've run several kinds of 87 octane gas, and it sounds the same. How does this compare with other's experience with similar engine/mileage?

    I know as an engine accumulates more miles, the octane requirements can go up. With the price of gas I'd hate to move up to a higher octane. According to the Owner's Manual, it shouldn't need a tune-up yet. Also since I'm from the New Orleans area, I'm kind of leery of the quality of work I may get right now. I'd also hate to get a tune-up, if it is characteristic of this engine. Any suggestions on tune-up cycle/items, other than what the owners manual specifies?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    What engine, V6 or V8? Have you owned in since new. That's low miles for a 97.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    That's low miles for a 99. You should not need a higher octane. It could be one of several issues. I assume all maintenance is kept up. The first thing I would check is the MAF (MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR). Be sure you keep a clean air filter. The MAF is in the AIR TUBE, in the air flow right after the Air Filter. It should have a screen that you should be able to see, carefully clean and vaccum the screen. The sensor works by measuring the resistance of a tiny heated wire in the airflow passage. Sometimes they can get dirty and make the MAF give erronious readings, which can make the engine ping. It needs to be checked and cleaned by someone who knows what they are doing. Careless cleaning of the wire could damage or break the tiny sensor wire.
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    I have the same truck, almost the same miles. I have exchanged messages with several people that have this problem - no one has a solution solution as of yet.

    I have tried:
    Cleaning MAF
    Higher grade of gas
    Cleaning Throttle body
    Replaced EGR valve - checked other EGR related parts
    Replaced intake gasket between air horn where EGR valve mounts and upper intake manifold (old one was cooked)
    Colder range of plugs (Autolite AP103)
    Seafoam in intake twice (an engine decarbonizer)
    Replaced coolant temp sensor

    These were the cheap / easy things to check. The truck runs much better, but It still pings in OD when the torque converter is locked up (1800 to 2600 rpm). I do not have an advanced scanner to do diagnostics on the MAF sensor or the O2 sensors, which I would try next.

    My gut feeling is that in many of the V8's the EGR flow is too low at low rpms or the timing is too far advanced since this happens in quite a few of these trucks. There may be a computer (PCM) update which addresses this, I have not checked with the dealer as of yet. You may want to check with the dealer and see if they have any ideas, but I don't think I would turn them loose - I think I would specifically ask about PCM updates for this issue given the items I have tried which haven't worked. They can chase lots of deadends trying to fix this....

    99's require plugs at 50k - yours have probably already been replaced? If not, a new set of plugs would be a good idea. Bosch plugs will make pinging worse if you have pinging issues. Autolites seem to work well.

    Lastly, if your engine uses oil between changes, it is probably getting sucked into the PCV valve. Oil in the intake causes bad pinging, you can rule this out by removing the PCV valve and plugging off the hose. Then see if your pinging gets better. This will not fix the pinging in OD at highway speeds.

    And if you figure it out, please post the answer here!
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    I believe that 97 was the first year of the SOHC V6. If that is the case and you Explorer has the SOHC engine you might be looking at the timing chain tensioner issue that was addressed by Ford about three or four years ago. If the engine noise, when cold, is getting very loud you may have a major issue here. You have to get the timing chain tensioners checked out and replaced before the entire engine is destroyed if they fail completely.
  • superdave88superdave88 Member Posts: 4
    Idles erratic but, goose the throttle? Crisp. Idles clean and .... goose the throttle it falls on its face! I've replaced the: MAF, TPS, ECT, Thermostat, Oil, IA?? filters , fuel pump and filter, ignition module, plugs, wiresWhichever sensor. Now, I know it seems foolish to throw somewhere in the neighborhood of $800.00 at an erratic idle which progressed to dying out at lights, which has finally progressed to won't run for crap!! I've pulled codes like thorns from my [non-permissible content removed]! They keep changing. Here are a couple of the latest THINGS and RESULTS. (Or lack thereof) Replaced both battery cables. No bueno! Fuel pressure regulator, Engine coolant temp sensor , and temp sender thingy. Thermostat and upper hose. Oil and filter. Code 157 Maf below Min. voltage in KOEO continuous memory. Runs same. Like a duck. Don't trust a garage although I probably would have spent the same by now. I used to build BigBlock hotrods now race Motorcycles. Pretty handy with a wrench. The codes keep changing. KOER...214 412,538, 553, 556, I haven't seen it this go around but, 998 Hard Fault??? Somebody Hep me!! Please!! :mad: :cry: :confuse: :sick:
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    I can't help you with this. You know more than I do and have replaced everything I would have. My only point is that if you can't diagnose it, you can't fix it. You are throwing good money after bad. In this situation, I believe one has to take a step back and ask the question, "Am I better off buying something with far fewer miles on it?" There are some real bargains out there in used Explorers that range between $15,000.00 and $18,000.00.
    My estimate is yours has between 120,000 and 150,000 miles on it. I think at 150,000 you are approaching the end of it's "useful life".

    IMHO!!
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    I have recommended checking the EGR valve on this forum so many times I feel as if I should buy stock in the companies that manufacture these components. As someone on this page told me a while ago, a faulty EGR valve will not show up as a fault on the ODB II fault codes. A bad or sticking EGR valve will cause an erratic idle and/or stalling. You have invested so much time and money and have not resolved the problem. You could try cleaning the EGR valve by removing it from the engine, spraying the moving valve stem with some WD 40. Check that the diaphragm is functioning normally and replacing it on the engine. Also, check the vacuum line going to the EGR valve to make sure you are still getting a vacuum to the valve. If the valve diaphragm is good and the valve stem moves when vacuum is applied then you know that the valve is working OK. If this fixes the problem eureka!! If it didn't it did not cost you anything except for 45 minutes to an hour of your time.

    Good luck.
  • lawman2lawman2 Member Posts: 3
    I purchased a 2005 Explorer XLT 4.0 in April of this year. Excellent vehicle with one annoying glitch. When you fill up the tank the gauge registers as full, and then will frequently drop below empty on an intermittent basis until I use up about a quarter of a tank. Thereafter the gauge is fine. Dealer replaced the sender and that did not work. Dealer checked with Ford and was advised that the problem is excess sulfur in the gas being used (I use only regular Mobil), and to try putting in Chevron Techron for three tankfuls. I did so and the problem has not been solved. Has anyone encountered this problem, and what was the solution? I am sure mine is not the only Explorer with this glitch. Thanks.
  • sneaky1sneaky1 Member Posts: 1
    DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO CHANGE MY ABS BRAKE SYTEM BACK TO A CONVENTIONAL BRAKE SYSTEM? I'M CONVERTING IT INTO AN OFF ROAD VEHICLE.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Try rebooting the car. Take off the battery cable for 2 minutes, then reconnect. It fixed my 04 fuel guage.... good luck. ;)
  • moeharrimoeharri Member Posts: 108
    Get ready for a long ride, no pun intended. It took 4 trips and several months (around 5?) for Ford to finally fix our 03 XLT. We took it in earlier this year when we had the same problem as you did. They told us the same thing, try different gas (which I KNEW was a run-a-round--what BS). Anyway, 2 or 3 weeks later, same problem. So, we took it in again, and then they said they'd order a sending unit and gauge cluster. About 1 month later, they called and said the parts were in. When we went back to pick up the Explorer, we were told they ordered the wrong parts (gauge cluster was ordered KM instead of miles). So, another month of waiting and another trip to the dealer. Well, it's getting to winter here in WI, and I'm almost certain that the same thing is going to happen again this winter.

    We bought this vehicle new in Sept '03 and in Sept '06 our Explorer will be out of warranty, and I'm quite certain that there is no way we will keep it much past that--due to high gas prices, many, many problems (gas gauge, power window motor, engine stuttering/hesitation, ABS sensor that took 4 days to fix, finicky remote fobs, etc, etc, etc) with the Explorer (many either fixed and/or ignored by the dealer). Off to Toyota we go for all of our new vehicle purchases (bought an '05 Camry this year, it is phenomenal as is the dealer!)
  • lawman2lawman2 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks; I will give it a try ...
  • lawman2lawman2 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for sharing your experience ... I suspect Ford does not want to acknowledge this problem.
  • sandyjsandyj Member Posts: 1
    We bought a 2002 Ford Exporer Sept 2005. Several weeks ago, the engine started knocking. We had it sent into the dealership. Dealership says the valve in bent and the rocker arm in broken. Car has 52,000 miles on it and has had regularly scheduled maintenance. Dealership is trying to sell us a after market warranty to cover the power train for the cost of the repair. Anyone else have this problem? This does not sound like something that should break on this young of a well kept vehicle. Help!
  • chuck1959chuck1959 Member Posts: 654
    I have a 1995 Explorer Eddie Bauer with 170,000 miles in execellent shape. I been having a problem that comes and goes. The battery seems to go dead for no reason. When I jump it, it starts right away. My mechanic has looked at it many many times he has checked ever conection there is.. I can go for weeks and weeks with no problem, than all of a sudden it does it again for awhile then goes away. Does anyone else have this problem?
  • chris39chris39 Member Posts: 4
    I need to replace the A/C switch.
    How do I remove the surrounding blind without braking it since there are no srews ?
    Thanks
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Your answer is in messege #4501. The only difference is that you have an intermittent parrasitic current draw, which makes it a lot harder to find. I would check for parrasitic current draw on different occasions to try to catch it in the act.
  • mayosanmayosan Member Posts: 1
    We had the same problem with 2005 Explorer purchased this Sept. Took it back to dealer and they replaced the sending unit - so far all has been fine. A local mechanic thought the problem might be related to the cold temp of the gas as it always happens right after a fill-up and not only to Ford vehicles. Maybe you can get another sending unit installed. (the dealer we bought from had 3 new explorers with same problem this year).
    Good luck!!
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