Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

18687899192125

Comments

  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Obviously, it shouldn't, but you really have no idea how the truck was maintained prior to your ownership, I'll bet. Do you have the 6 or the 8 engine?

    The warranty sounds like an excellent way out of the problem to me.......
  • bigdkbigdk Member Posts: 1
    My daughter has a 2003 Explorer XLT. It started making a loud ticking/clanking noise on Thursday. It died when at a stop light coming home from work. Had a mechanic check it, he stated that the engine is shot. She called the dealer and they won't touch it. They said they did not bring it to them for oil changes so they have no responsibility for it. All other warranty work was done by the dealer. The car only has 48,000 miles on it. It is well taken care of. Anyone know what we can do? :mad: :mad:
  • dgoulddgould Member Posts: 2
    Hi: I am new to the forum in hopes that someone has the same problem or knows what this could be. I have a 1997 ford explorer that has major creeking noises when I drive. It sounds like my truck is going to fall apart. It happens all the time, hitting bumps, turning the steering wheel or just plain driving. Pep Boys said it's just what happens when the vehicle gets older and there's nothing they can do. There has to be something because the noise is driving me crazy. It has 97K miles and I'm not quite ready to give it up. Can anyone help?
    Thanks!
  • coloroncoloron Member Posts: 14
    I have a 97 Moutaineer AWD that I bought new. It has 78500 miles on it and has been a great vehicle with little or no trouble. However recently I've been hearing a low "moaning" sound from under the vehicle when driving slowly through the parking garage at my work. It maybe happening at al speeds and I just can't hear it. It doesn't seem to be related to the engine or tranny since it does it just coasting down the ramps. It seems much louder when it's colder outside.

    Has anyone experienced anything similar or have a clue where to look for the source? So far, it doesn't seem to effect the way it drives but it's making me nervous that it could be something that spells big $$$. I'm planning to trade it next spring so I really don't want to put a bunch of $$$'s in it.

    Thanks.
  • placeinfranceplaceinfrance Member Posts: 2
    Ford Explorer radio display dead ?

    If your radio LCD display is dead, and you don't want to spend $400-$600 for a new OEM radio, nor do you want to spend $275 on a used one from the junkyard, I recommend you save yourself some money and headache by buying a working, used one on eBay.

    For $20, there is a website called, www.fixyourford.com, that will sell you instructions to repair your radio but the process is a haphazzard (no rhyme or reason), time-consuming repair process. There is also a good chance that you will be out $40 - $50 cash before you realize that the "FIX" is not going to work for you and you should have bought the one on eBay for $125. Here's why.

    In general, the repair process advocated (and sold) blames the dead display on the manufacturing process of the power circuit board for the radio.

    So, to fix your radio, you are to get a soldering iron (and soldering stuff) and re-solder essentially everything on the power board. Again, the assumption is that it's the board that's bad and not the components on it (capacitors, resisters, ect.)

    What you don't see until after you've coughed up the $20 bucks is the site's claim that the "FIX" you just bought only works 95% of the time. And then...LO AND BEHOLD!...you've just won the lottery! your radio happens to be one of the 5% for which the website has no idea what's the fix!!

    The fine print on the website says that it may take you 2-3 repair attempts before the fix will work. Meaning: up tp 4-6 hours wasted only to find out the fix doesn't work for you. (1-2 hours to pull the damned radio out, open it up, resolder the board, put it back in.)

    And then...for an additional $89 bucks, the website owner will sell you a working board in exchange for your "non-working" board.

    So, if your time and frustration are worth more than $10 an hour, I recommend you just by a working, used radio on eBay.

    Cost of the "FIX" $20.00
    Cost of soldering iron 10.00
    Cost of solder 4.00
    Cost of solder braid 4.00
    Your time ($10/hr) 60.00
    Gas to buy this stuff 6.00.

    TOTAL $104.00 (quantifiable amount)
    Frustration $XXX.00 (you figure that out)

    Frank Lee
  • placeinfranceplaceinfrance Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem on the Explorer but I am assuming it's caused by the worn, out-of-balance tires.

    Had the same problem on my 2001 F-150 until I bought new tires. With the new tires, the "moaning" or hum was slightly noticeable. Took the truck back and had the place re-balanced the tires--no more hum (moaning).

    Since I still have more than 50% of tread left on the Explorer, I'm figuring to pay $40 (plus tax) to have them balanced at Sam's Club.
  • coloroncoloron Member Posts: 14
    Good thought. My tires are older (about 35K miles) and haven't been balanced for some time.

    The sound is most noticable at very low speeds, less than 10 MPH, so I'd never have thought about balancing as an issue. Of course I'm not a mechanic so what do I know?!

    Thanks for the suggestion.
  • gertrudegertrude Member Posts: 2
    If you put the front end on jackstands and raise/lower each wheel with a floor jack you will be able to hear the creaking if the control arm bushings rubbers are the problem. I bought new bushings but delayed about 2 months and the problem went away so I took the bushings back to PEP boys and never did replace them. You could always spray some lubricant on them and wait for it to work it's way in. What to use . . .Hmm . something that does not harm rubber . .silicone spray . .
  • gertrudegertrude Member Posts: 2
    My 2004 Explorer Sport Trak changes radio channels like it has a mind of it's own. It is the standard radio/single cd setup. I'll be driving along listening to music and in the middle of a tune it will switch to weather channel or news or some other thing. It happens on any station in any area of the country. Ford says they cannot duplicate it and never heard of the problem. I think the phase lock loop circuit in the radio is the problem but they think there is no problem so they won't replace it. Any suggestions?
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    the fix works if you know what you're doing. if you get a blowtorch and a bunch of bar solder, it isn't going to work. done it, it worked.

    I must say that I also had some dicey solder connections on the display board, as well, to fix. and that I replaced the filter capacitor for that function, the 100 uF unit, on the power board, because I was there and crummy capacitors are a long-standing issue back to tube days.

    it was worth $20 to me to know which boards to get after. I also raised the diodes and power resistors, touched up every SMT connection, and the radio has been solid.

    if somebody says you fix low oil pressure in a worn-out engine by replacing the bearings, and you don't know how to do it, then surely, you will mess the job up big time.

    if you're that glowery about self-repair, then send your boards in to the guy with, I think it is $120, and let him fix it or eat it. best price elsewhere I saw on Da ISH for refurbing the radio is $225.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    white spray lithium grease on the bushings also works, and has been the recommended fix for years. although it washes off faster than a thick silicone in road spray.
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    What you do depends on you to some extent.

    If it were mine, I would shop around for an engine from a rollover from one of the junkyards. Quite a few rollovers out there - if you take your time and get some quotes you can find a decent price. They can be started and tested before they are installed in the vehicle.

    The dealer here does not sound like much help. I'm guessing a reman block from Ford installed at the dealer is at least 3,500. I think you could do a used engine for somewhere around half that.

    If you are not comfortable with a used engine or a local shop, then the price goes up. Ford dealers are the most expensive option.

    I think you already have the answer about how much help Ford will be. There is an appeal process you can try at Ford ( look in your warranty booklet) , but I don't think Ford would pick up enough of the tab to reduce your cost below a used engine.
  • shelly1211shelly1211 Member Posts: 2
    Tuesday, while I was at work, I went to drive my car to an appointment and the engine would not start. It made the sounds like it wanted to, but would not catch. Since I only have 57,000 miles on it, and we purchased the extended warranty til 75,000 miles, I called the Ford line and had it towed.

    Wednesday morning the mechanic calls me to ask me a few questions to rule out any possibility of bad gas, etc. Imagine my surprise when my husband calls to tell me they called and told him that I had driven through a deep puddle at high speed and as a result the engine was full of water! Not only that, but it would not be covered under warranty and we had to get a new engine. We were flabbergasted!!! Yes, it was raining that day and I had told the mechanic that I was driving the car earlier in the morning. But it was running fine. I did have to drive through a puddle (no deeper than 6 inches) with my left tire but I can guarantee it was slowly because there are speed bumps precisely where the puddle was. When my husband called back to tell the mechanic that I did not drive through a puddle at high speed, the mechanic's reply was that unless I had someone driving with me there really was no way to tell that I hadn't.

    We spoke with our regular mechanic who said that in most cases like this the car would die in the middle of the puddle, anyway. I am wondering if there is any other way water could get inside the engine and how do I insist that Ford consider this covered under our extended warranty?

    Shelly
  • autonovice3autonovice3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ford Exploer Sport with 70,000 miles. It works fine in summer but in every cold winter morning, it has the following problem: The ignition is always quick and fine, but once started the engine shakes so badly at idle that the vibrations can be felt in the steering wheel and throughout the vehicle. After a few seconds it will stall out if I don't keep my foot on the gas. This would last at least 10 minutes until the car is fully warmed up, then it will return to stable idle. For several times, I rushed my car out on the road when idle is still not stable, and it stalled at the stop sign. The worst part was once it stalled, the steering wheel immediately got LOCKED(!!) and the brake paddle was LOCKED too!!! I CANNOT steer the wheel or step the brake down, and the car just kept moving ahead until lost inertia. The repair shop I went to said several of my cylinders are misfiring, and changing the timing belt would fix. Yet nothing is fixed except I was ripped off $1200. I don't know much about car, and I hope many of you nice people can give me some clue before I go to another repair shop. What is happening with my car?? By the way, my car also has a check engine light.
  • dgoulddgould Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your reply....I'll try it.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    get a sample of the water and have it analyzed for glycol coolant. if none, you are doomed. if so, it was a head gasket failure and ford is responsible for repairs.

    before I called them again, I'd call a lawyer. not to brag about yet... but to get solid advice on how to proceed without prejudicing your rights, and also how to avoid ticking off the dealer/ford while this test is being conducted.

    the air intake for at least the 99/00/01 explorers is behind the radiator bracket on the passenger side. it is indeed possible for water spray to be conducted into the air intake, and if there is enough, it could penetrate the air filter and get into the cylinders. generally, the location should protect against water ingestion as long as the plastic fender liners are intact, and as long as big streams of water don't come rolling off the tire or sprayed around by the radiator fan.

    what the mechanic is saying happened is precisely this, and it caused hydrolock, which bent or broke a whole ton of internal engine parts. isn't worth trying to fix a hydrolocked engine.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    If the engine had filled full of water, it would have died on the spot. How was it running when you parked it? If it was running ok, then it was not full of water at that time.
    It sounds too strange to me, get a lawyer if they won't fix it.
  • exp1996exp1996 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Explorer Sport with the V-6 4.0 Liter Engine. I just had the transmission replaced (again) and the check engine light is on. The code came up for a "second heat sensor." Is this the little cylindrical thing which occasionally drips coolant and has a little air hose attached to it. If so where can I get this part. Thanks for the help.
  • superdave88superdave88 Member Posts: 4
    Will it do it while out of gear? Spark plug wires? Get under the hood at night and idle it up. Look for spark leaking to ground. By that I mean, sparks from wires to the block or exhaust header. If it won't do it in park try it in gear but, be very careful not to let it get away.(parking brake, foot on brake and tire choks.)
  • superdave88superdave88 Member Posts: 4
    Duuuggggghhhh! Sorry I couldn't help myself.
  • shelly1211shelly1211 Member Posts: 2
    I went to the shop and talked to the service manager. He was very willing to explore options other than water in the engine. So now I am waiting while they look at the drive chain (?) or something that made half the engine quit working. He agreed that the car would not have the symptoms were the car driven through a puddle at high speed. We'll see what they come up with and whether it is covered by the warranty.

    Thanks again for the replies!

    Shelly
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    Huh??!!
  • jpndrvrjpndrvr Member Posts: 2
    To anyone with an Explorer. I am driving a 99 Ford Explorer XLT and recently I noticed a screeching squeeky noise from--what seems like the front directly centered between the front wheel base--of my SUV. The noise only happens while in reverse and when the truck is moving in reverse and it sounds very similar to brakes that make the screeching noise as a vehicle comes to a stop. The truck does not make the noise in drive or moving forward. Not sure what it is. Being stuck in Japan, it will cost me an arm, a leg, and my first born.
    Anyone out there--please advise.
    R/
    Ed (Jpndrvr)
  • brucenivenbruceniven Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem but it's not the doors - at the least the door ajar light doesn't come on. Any other suggestions?
  • ssimontonssimonton Member Posts: 1
    My wife's 99 explorer with the old style 4.0 liter has very little power, and it pings and rattles. There are no codes in memory. I have also had a couple of spark plugs crack the porcelain near the center electrode. the vehicle only has 70000 miles on it. She has to let it sit and warm up in the mornings, or it rattles really bad. The thermostat is ok, and as I said, there are no codes. I'm thinking the cylinders might be carboned up, has anyone had a similar problem? if it is carbon, whats the most effective way to clean it short of pulling the heads? Motorvac?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    You have an Explorer in Japan? That's cool. Sounds like a brake dragging problem - I'd check the front brakes, see if they're releasing like they should.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Check the MAF and the Air Tube from the MAF to the Throttle Body. The Air Tube can crack underneath where you can't see it, take it off to check it. If it IS cracked, it lets the engine get more air than the computer calculates, which causes the engine to run very lean and ping and rattle and crack the plugs, and not throw any codes. If you find a crack in the tube, patch it with some duct tape to see if that fixes it. If it does, put a new Air Tube on it.
    Good Luck,
    E.D.
  • rdomerdome Member Posts: 1
    Don't know if you have had this fixed yet or not but I had the same problem and $1800 it is fixed. I had two gears that needed replaced in the tranny. Good Luck.
  • respugarespuga Member Posts: 2
    HOW CAN I TELL THE FRONT END AXLE RATIO ON MY 4 WHEEL DRIVE 1991 FORD EXPLORER ?
  • chris39chris39 Member Posts: 4
    The A/C switch works only on level 4. If I turn the A/C switch on 1, 2 or 3, nothing changes.
    I replaced the switch itself but the problem is still there.
    Thanks
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Give a more complete description. What happens in 1, 2 & 3? does it blow at all, or blow full speed or what? Does it blow high speed in 4? The problem can be in the "BLOWER RESISTOR", located on the evaporator case under the hood. It has several wires that plug into it, and is held in place by a couple of screws. It can be easily pulled and inspected, it should have small coils of wire with no breaks or shorts. If OK, then the wiring between the switch and the resistor needs to be checked, and the High Blower relay needs to be checked (to be sure it's not stuck on High speed). You'll need some basic electrical skills with a 12V test light and/or a volt/ohm meter.
    Good Luck,
    E. D. in Sunny Florida
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    your blower motor resistor is open, it will be mounted on the input air cowl under a bunch of crud on the firewall. if it was a 2000, the fluid jugs would have to be removed to access it for replacement. they fail often on all car lines and IMHO should be easily accessed. so should blower motors and heater cores.

    that's where 1960s cars have it all over the modern ones. you could get to things to fix them.
  • respugarespuga Member Posts: 2
    THERE IS A INLINE RESISTOR THAT HAS TO BE REPLACED PROBABLY TWO OF THEM. IT IS NOT THE SWITCH .
  • jaydee56jaydee56 Member Posts: 1
    When I set the climate control knob to heat. no heat comes out just cold air. Is there a check-list I can go through, that will help me find, and fix the problem. Thank you....
    John.
  • chris39chris39 Member Posts: 4
    It doesn't blow at all in 1,2, or 3. Only in 4 it blows high speed.
    Thanks alot for your help.
    Chris
  • rymr50rymr50 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Explorer XLT 4WD. Two days ago the AC/Heat hot/cold malfunctioned. No matter where the hot/cold dial is set the air comes out very hot on all settings except Max AC. When I turn on Max AC the air comes out very cold whether the hot/cold dial is turned to hot or cold. The fan works fine at all speeds. Any ideas?
  • wmccutchwmccutch Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Explorer EB with about 104K miles. I had the trans rebuilt by in May 05 by Cottman. I just had brakes, F rotors, calipers, ball joints, and shocks put on. Firestone left the driver's side caliper loose and it actually cut a hole through the inside of the alum. wheel. Fortunately, I was backing out of my driveway when the tire locked up and blew. They replaced the wheel and fixed the damage. I then noticed that the truck was steering sluggishly and had jumped into Low 4x4. I asked Cottman's to look at it. They discovered the transfer case motor needed replaced. The truck wasn't going in and out of 4x4.
    It now feels like the 4WD is engaged all the time and makes steering sluggish and sloppy. I realize that there are 104K miles on the truck, but it is really well maintained and was running great (except for the ball joint noise in the front).
    Is there a way to tell if 4WD is engaged? Any suggestions on what I can ask either Firestone or Cottman's to look for? (Both have been helpful. Firestone has made a valid attempt to right the problem by paying for over half the transfer case work, etc.)

    Thanks for your help.
    Bill.
    :confuse:
  • bock2bock2 Member Posts: 1
    I had this happen on my 93 Explorer. It might be older but i'm sure Ford still uses some same components. Anyway, try changing your heater blower motor resistor which is usually located on the heater fan component in the engine bay on the passenger side.

    Hopefully this works.

    Good luck
    :)
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    I have 6 CD s in the player I cant eject or play any Ideas ??/ :cry:
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Referring back to my messege # 4557, The blower resistor will most likely be the problem. Under the hood look on the passenger side of the firewall, on the side of the Evaporator case nearest the blower motor, it will have about 4 wires that plugs into a connector on the resistor terminals. Pull the wire connector loose, and remove the 2 screws that hold the resistor in place, remove the resistor, then look at the resistor wires. The resistor wires are fragile. They should not be broken or loose. If they are, replace the resistor and the fan speeds should work.
    Good Luck,
    E. D. in Sunny Florida
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Have ya rebooted? Power it down, and then repower it, with the battery cable or by pulling the plug on the unit. It may start it back up for you.
  • ash7ash7 Member Posts: 1
    Hi...Did you manage to get a dyagnosis of you problem problem...It appears i may have the same problem and fear it could be the Transmission!! :(

    When the vehicle is warm the rattle isnt too bad..but when i first set off and accelerate it sounds like a bag of spanners being rattled until i ease off the gas???
  • brillobrillo Member Posts: 1
    The paint is peeling from the front edge of the hood of my 2003 Explorer. The dealer says that it is due to wear and tear, but that is ridiculous in a two year old car. I've done 50,00 miles so I'm out of warranty. Also the leather on the drivers seat is splitting, they told me that was because someone had been sitting in it (!)
    has anyone else had this happen? What should I do? I'm definitely not paying to get the whole hood resprayed, or the seat mended !!!
  • josuejosue Member Posts: 2
    I have a ford explorer 1996, it always start in the mourning, but after driving for a 10 min. and try to start a gain one or two hours lates, it won't star, only cranks, and smells gasoline, after six or seven times in two minutus it's star like with no problem, I have changed the Air Control Valve, and it's has the same problem? What could it be,, any one Knows???
  • kernkern Member Posts: 5
    My wife and I bought a 2002 Eddie Bauer Explorer in January of 2005. For the first seven months of this year, we didn't experience any problems. In just the last few months, we've both noticed (she drives it more than I do) that as we climb the fairly steep roads up to our house, when the transmission downshifts, it really shifts extremely hard. Also, when backing out of the garage up a slight incline and you put it in drive, it may take a few seconds to shift from "R" to "D". Our mechanic changed the transmission fluid but it didn't have any effect. The car has about 65K and has been maintained extremely well (I bought it from my boss who drove it as his company car). Can anyone tell me if this is a known issue with the '02 Explorer and if so, does it sound like it is an adjustment or does it need a new transmission?

    In addition to this problem, as you turn the wheel to the right, a loud humming sound comes from the front end and I know it isn't the tires. Is this a wheel joint?
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    The paint is peeling from the front edge of the hood of my 2003 Explorer. The dealer says that it is due to wear and tear, but that is ridiculous in a two year old car. I've done 50,00 miles so I'm out of warranty. Also the leather on the drivers seat is splitting,

    Unless something got on/in the paint- it SHOULD NOT be peeling. As far as the seats are concerned, this IS A WIDESPREAD PROBLEM on both the Explorer and Expeditions. This leather is too thin and is JUNK!

    Now, I need to be honest with you---the way Ford is hurting right now in the marketplace, you can bet your last dollar that it is going to be very difficult to get a "good will adjustment" on your car. I would try to have them repaint the hood, and go to a good aftermarket place and just pay to have the seats redone. I would write a letter to Ford and say that you are not happy and have a very subtle point about buying something else next time around!!
    GOOD LUCK!!
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    I don't know what the front end sound is (are you sure it's not the famous bad rear-end?). On the transmission, it is not uncommon for these transmissions to need a "reflash" of the computer. And it's possible the trans-solenoid is bad as well. Both of these are common problems with this transmission. If you did not take you car to the dealer for the transmission flush, it's very possible your mechanic did not know about the above. Now of course, the first thing the dealer is going to tell you is to flush the transmission, and when you tell them it was done elsewhere, I suspect you will get limited cooperation on your issues......
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    You likely have a solenoid failing from bad transmission fluid - there is a recall out on that, did your car participate? If not, you may be covered still. If it was, you have a problem......sorry :( The transmission may be toast by now. That solenoid failure will eat up your transmission pretty fast if not quickly dealt with.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    thanks i will let you know
  • scrantonscranton Member Posts: 1
    I have been experiencing the same problem, except now I get very hot air even on the Maximum Air setting. This started about the same time my ignition switch bell started going off even with the key out. I was wondering if the two problems might be connected.
Sign In or Register to comment.