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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • joshyajoshya Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Ford Explorer. About once a week right after starting the car the idle goes haywire. The engine runs at 250 RPMS instead of the Normal 1000 RPMS. During these times the car stalls out when the driver is not giving it gas. The problem seems to occur more when the engine was been ran recently as opposed to after the car has set all night. Finally, it seems to go away for awhile (2 weeks) after replacing the air filter. Any ideas?
  • brucelincbrucelinc Member Posts: 815
    Ash7, the description of your problem doesn't quite sound like ssimonton's. Any other symptoms that make you fear the transmission?

    About a year ago my Ranger did exactly what you describe. There was a rattle under acceleration when cold that would stop if I let off the gas. It didn't do it when warm. The problem was a loose shield on the catalytic converter. I repositioned the shield and the noise was gone. Exhaust resonance can cause shields to vibrate and make strange noises that come and go depending upon heat and throttle position.

    With your vehicle cold and transmission in Park, try bringing the engine speed up to about 1500-2000 RPM slowly. Can you hear the noise under those conditions? Or hold the brake firmly with the transmission in Drive and step on the accelerator a bit to put some load on the engine/driveline. If you can duplicate the noise while having someone else listen carefully from outside, they might be able to pinpoint where it is coming from.

    I certainly hope it is nothing serious. Please let us know.
  • smclaughlinsmclaughlin Member Posts: 1
    I have an 99 explorer and at 14,000 I had a knocking in my engine which I thought was lifters. Took into dealer, they replced engine with a rebuilt... Now I am at 78,000 miles and just took it in and they told me I had cracked head and gaskets needed to be replaced. I know one other person that had engine replaced and now I beleive I have a defected engine and that is why the head cracked. I am an easy driver and have never had the car overheat. I found a leak when I took it to have oil change at Jiffy lube. I would like to see if other people are having the same problems because I am writing a letter to Ford.
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    at near 57k miles on mine, the tranny started to have rough downshifts. after the 60k miles service at the dealer which included a tranny flush, the tranny has been running very smooth again. you said your mechanic did the tranny flush for your car, however, were you referring your mechanic as a ford dealer? don't know if independent shops will have the proper equipment to do tranny flush on these transmissions.
    someone on here said there was a recall on these transmissions, but he didn't tell you that the recall did not apply to 02 models.
  • rakelly43rakelly43 Member Posts: 1
    Does the 95 Explorer have an ignition relay switch? Turn the ignition and get a click but it does not crank. Flip the shift into park several times and it starts fine. Battery ok. New starter and solenoid. I need to know if this model has an ignition relay - before I do anything else. Getting expense!
  • kernkern Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info. What would be the down side of telling the dealership that we think we need a transmission flush and see if they come up with the trans-solenoid diagnosis?
  • kernkern Member Posts: 5
    A recall??? I hope you're right and I'm going to start checking into that. Thanks.
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Member Posts: 245
    no recall on the '02. there was on the '03 but i think it centered around the tranny being filled with the wrong fluid at the factory.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    You know - my 94 developed a miss in the engine at about 120,000 miles. My son worked at the local Lincoln dealership, so I told him to have the techs check it out. They told us we needed a new engine and that one cylinder had a hole in the piston. I didn't want to put an engine in the truck being as old as it was, so we just gave it to my son's Girlfriend. Her dad put a new plug in that cylinder, and the truck's still running fine. You can't always trust the techs at the dealerships - even if you work there.... Get a second opinion. I wish I had.
  • dmatt131dmatt131 Member Posts: 6
    I appreciate your comments, but in this case you are far out in left field. My comment about the service department being GREAT was very sincere and truthful. They ordered the part based on a response from another responder to my problem at my request. My vehicle was never checked by a service technician. They accepted my word and the responders word how my problem could be solved. At the time I took my vehicle in for the replacement is when it was discovered that there was no rear air due to no third row seats. Yes, I trust this service department completely because they have earned this trust over a 15 year period. I'm sorry that your experience with Ford Dealerships have been less than desirable, but there are always the exception. Just give them a try and work with them. You know that none of us are perfect, and we all make mistakes. Criticism comes easy and sometimes not due. I'm proud of the professionalism shown by this Dealerships Service Department and I'm very fortunate to be one of their customers for so long and am looking forward to continuing my relationship. Just hope and trust that you are having an experience that is satisfactory to you at the Dealership of your choice. Thanks again for your comments.
    By the way, I haven't heard the noise since the additional freon was installed.
  • mercman2mercman2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem with my 2004 Mountaineer. When I come to a stop and go to put it in Park, the shift gets stuck just past Reverse and will not go further towards Park unless I stop pushing it, and then resume the shift. Then it will go into Park. So it will never go in one continuous shift from Drive into Park - I always have to pause at Reverse for a moment, and then resume.

    I am about to take it in for inspection and have them look at this. Would like to know what the real cause is so that I can tell the Dealership up front instead of only hoping that they fix it.
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    Your original message stated:
    "Want to update you on my previous problem. The service manager ordered an expansion valve to replace the faulty one assuming that my vehicle had rear air since it was an EB edition. Well, guess what. my vehicle doesn't have the third row seat; therefore no rear air and no expansion valve. My vehicle doesn't have a front expansion valve. The AC system was 2 oz low with freon so maybe that was causing my problem. We don't know. I will be picking up my vehicle today and will keep all posted if the problem was corrected.

    Should there any further information on this subject please advise me. My service department is simply GREAT and willing to assist in any way to cure the problem.

    Thanks for all the help."

    Now you state that a service tech never looked at your car and that you and another "responder" provided the information used to diagnose the problem and order parts. This is not a very good procedure to diagnose and repair a vehicle. Are you or the "responder" trained auto mechanics? You dealership's service manager may be a nice person, but the vehicle should have been checked out by a tech whose qualifications were a known entity. The service manager should not have trusted you and the "responder" he should have had the AC checked by one of the tech he works with. I remember bringing my Explorer in to a auto repair shop and I was sure that the problem was a bad front wheel bearing. The service manager responded with:"We'll see". Turns out that the tires had to be rotated. I may know something about cars, but I am not a trained automobile mechanic. You are right none of us are perfect. That is why we sometimes get a second opinion. In situations like this the second opinion must be preceded by knowledge gained from first hand observation by a trained professional.

    Now that we have all of the information, I think, one might be able to say that your dealership may not be that bad. In this case they made a bad decision based upon bad business practices.
  • stoneagemaxxstoneagemaxx Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone, i am having a real big problem with my buddies 4x4 explorer. first off he was driving it and it needed front breaks bad, he dident know the extent of the problem but called me and asked if i would do it for him, so i did, what happend as he explained it was he was driving it and turned into his subdivision and hit the breaks the passenger side caliper locked up pulling the truck to the right and then he let off the breaks gave it a little gas and it was still pulling to the right he then hit the breaks again as pulling into his driveway and said he heard a "pop", well i pulled it appart and the pass. caliper had overextended and locked open due to the pad being woren down so far that it was metal on metal. he went and got new pads, both new front calipers and both rotors, i installed them, got it all back together blead the breaks with the pumping the pedel method, and when finished the pedel still went right to the floor, went through and re-blead just to be sure and there was no air, next thing we thought of was the master cylinder so we replaced it and blead the breaks again still no luck, talked to the guy at the parts store he said it needed to be power blead, so we brought the truck back to my place hooked up the power bleeder and and blead them again still no luck, so as of right now the truck has no breaks until the pedel is firmly pushed into the floor, we drove it around my yard and i checked out the fronts after and the rotors had not even heated up at all, it seems as if there is not break action in the front at all any ideas?, Thanks for the help
  • honger88honger88 Member Posts: 2
    My problem is that on the front passenger side the lock button will unlock my locks but not lock them. The button is fine the actuator is fine and the wiring seems fine. There is power going to the door for unlocking it but it doesn't seem to have power for locking it. Tried to trace problem but am I missing something, a controler or breaker. Here's the funny thing the drivers side works all the locks just fine.
  • savrizzosavrizzo Member Posts: 2
    Ok, I have a 94 ford explorer as well. My problem seems similar to yours. I'll try to start it, it'll turn over but the engine doesn't fire (start). If I leave it for a while....it'll start. My mechanic checked the battery and alternator and they were fine.....he said it was the fuel pump, so he replaced it. It was fine for a month or so........but my problem keeps coming back, happened again last night? Not sure what the heck is wrong? Any ideas? Could it be a relay?
  • susyv10susyv10 Member Posts: 2
    I have this situation with my 94' Explorer. I'm not sure if it would be the same problem as your's but while I'm driving it, the RPM's will go up and the car will just shut off. It does this randomly whenever it wants. I then sit there for about ten minutes and then it will restart but I am trying to figure out why it shuts off randomly like that. If you could help that would be great thnx.
  • savrizzosavrizzo Member Posts: 2
    Sorry, mine doesn't do that when I drive. Just when I go to start it. I'm pretty sure it must be some sort of faulty wiring, a blown sensor, or a relay. Its hard to figure it out. My mechanic said he doesn't know unless it happens again.

    Good luck!
  • kernkern Member Posts: 5
    I was referring to my mechanic as in "no boat hitch" on the back of his truck. I will ask about the proper equipment that was referenced and see if he has it or not. Do you know if the dealer "flashed the computer"? How about the trans-solenoid, did it have to be replaced or serviced?
  • bigdog6bigdog6 Member Posts: 1
    Any Idea why my ABS light goes on and off. . I'll start my car its off next time its on. Being doing this about 3 months. Brakes are good . Mechanic told me it may be worn wheel bearings. :cry:
  • whamicinwhamicin Member Posts: 1
    Had the same thing happen to my '97 Eddie Bauer. I went to a you-wrench-it salvage yard and pulled a multi-function switch (3 screws to remove the steering wheel cowling and 2 star screws to remove the switch). Total cost $15 and 15 minutes to swap out. Local dealer was willing to do diagnostics on the electrical system and estimated somewhere between $500-$750 once they figured it out.
  • susyv10susyv10 Member Posts: 2
    Thnx for the reply but I have taken it to about three different mechanics and they all seem to say that it is in perfect condition but if it was then it wouldn't do it. Everyone keeps telling me that it's my fuel pump? I haven't tried that but maybe i should? Another thing that it does is before it shuts off, all my speeds drop and my steering wheel locks up and the brake also does. I'm not driving this car until I fix this because I really don't want to die before my time. :cry:
  • ihatemyfordihatemyford Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 ford explorer with 152,000 miles on it. About 8 mo ago it started stalling out in stop and go traffic(which is always happening on the 101 in LA) on the highway. Also, when I drive home from work about 11 miles and park it at home the can will not start for 1 or 2 hours. Could this be the VZV valve problem that you are talking about?
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    they did not do anything to the computer on mine, nor do anything to the solenoid.
  • cheryl3cheryl3 Member Posts: 2
    My suv has about 120,000 miles. Have owned it 3 years. Seems to be slipping in 3rd gear. I had the transmission fluid change thing done. When the mechanic did it, he said it "smelled" bad and didn't promise anything. I didn't notice any change and someone at a garage suggested I'd need a rebuilt transmission. However, 3 weeks have passed and it seems to be running ok again. I don't have a lot of extra money and have been told I'm looking at $2,000 repair. I'm not sure if I should just go ahead and have it rebuilt or just "let it ride" for now. I keep up on the oil change, etc. on the car and don't really have the extra money. Not sure if I should just "sit on it" or what? Comments?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    What engine and transmission do you have? How you tried putting any additive in the transmission yet? Pour a bottle of LUCAS TRANSMISSION STOP SLIP in it and let it ride for a while, to see how it does. I usually don't recommend additives, but I have had the best luck with this stuff.
    Good Luck
    E.D.
  • josuejosue Member Posts: 2
    1rst. You have to clean or replace the IAC (IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE) If not Change the ECT (Engine coolant sensor) :)
  • jsguspsjsgusps Member Posts: 1
    e.d. :

    i have the 2002 Explorer XLT and am starting to get the torque shudder at 3-4 gears... i have read on this problem and have seen recommendations for Lube Guard or Dr. Tranny's additive..
    These seem to bring a friction additive that Mercon V doesn't supply enough of.....
    Question is how do i add this?
    V-6 with the sealed trans..... any options other than a trans shop with the squirt gun? No dip stick on this model..

    just the driver.. (sometimes)

    thanks..
  • mmadden1mmadden1 Member Posts: 17
    Took my '04' XLS 4x4 in for 30K service and the service guy advises me that they do a coolant change as well as a tranny fluid change at 30K. I didn't have my book in front of me so I went along with the program. When I get the car back, the maintenance schedule with the owners manual says nothing about a coolant change until 100K. Likewise, nothing about a tranny fliud change but given the problems with this tranny, I wondered if this has become the new standard.

    Is this a dealer trying to get a few more service bucks out of me or is this real deal?

    BTW, they replaced my ball joints under warranty when they were inspected. MY '98' has it's ball joints replaced at 60K now this--can't ford make a ball joint anymore? The car is driven on Interstates 90% of the time.
    Thanks for any help. :mad:
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    "Took my '04' XLS 4x4 in for 30K service and the service guy advises me that they do a coolant change as well as a tranny fluid change at 30K. I didn't have my book in front of me so I went along with the program. When I get the car back, the maintenance schedule with the owners manual says nothing about a coolant change until 100K. Likewise, nothing about a tranny fluid change but given the problems with this tranny, I wondered if this has become the new standard.

    Is this a dealer trying to get a few more service bucks out of me or is this real deal?"

    I would go back and ask for a credit for the coolant change. They took your money. There was no reason what so ever to change the coolant. I would go back and state very clearly that you were taken advantage of. I know it's not an easy thing to do... but it's the truth. As far as the transmission is concerned; there have been so many problems with this transmission IT IS PRUDENT to have the fluid changed every 30K. NEVER GO TO THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT with -out consulting your manual first, but I guess you know that now.
    Good luck.
  • mmadden1mmadden1 Member Posts: 17
    I checked back with the service guy went over the issues and he said he wasn't sure if the Explorer had the 5 year coolant in it and that the tech would had not done it if it had. In the owners manual, the coolant spec is reffered to as "premium gold" --the 5 year stuff.
    The write up guy offered to give me a credit if I thought it was unneccessary and I will take him up on it after I talk to the service manager.
    I've been going to this dealership for 18 years--a very large dealer in NE OH-- and never had a problem before today.
    The reality is that these guys know what the schedule is on every fluid and this was a case where they were just trying to ring an easy sale. Makes me wonder if the warranty claim on the ball joints was legit or if they're trying to rip Ford off.
    Either way, I'm done with the dealership--there are plenty of other out there--and may be done with Ford because of all of the things that have gone wrong with this vehicle, my 3rd Explorer. OBTW, my ABS light came on when I got home, but went off after I turned the car off and restarted; that was supposedly fixed on the last trip in.
  • stacyjstacyj Member Posts: 2
    I have an 05 V8 Automatic tranny that is making a loud noise that sounds like a Tuning Fork, no rhythm or reason to when the noise happens. The dealership cannot recreate the noise. Has anyone else experienced this problem?
  • staversstavers Member Posts: 1
    I just replaced the transmission in my explorer. After I started it I put it in reverse and nothing happened. I can't get it to shift at all. As far as I can tell it has plenty of fluid. Does anyone have any Ideas on whats wrong? Any help would be appreciated.
  • campinutcampinut Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2000 Explorer. Have had it for 5 months and realy do like it alot. Only problem is the front end pops when I go thruogh a dip or across a gradual bump. The weight on the front of the truck is lifted or releived(not hard or high into the air) and I will get a kind of muffled popping sound. I have looked several times and raised the front end but cannot locate the source. Can anyone help??
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    Probably a couple of things to look at - stop by an alignment shop and have them give you an opinion on your ball joints. These wear out in as little as 60k.

    The second thing to look at is the rear torsion bar mounts. There are covers over the rear mounts - remove the 4 bolts and take the covers off. Then spray wd 40 liberally over the back of each torsion bar where it rests up against the frame. Take it out and hit some bumps and see if the noise is gone. This works as long as the wd - 40 lasts.

    Ford replaced the torsion bars, rear torsion bar to frame insulators, torsion bar adjusting arms, and torsion bar adjusting bolts when I had the popping noise. I think parts were about 250.00.

    If you do work on the rear torsion bar mounts, it is very easy to go a little further, pull your lower front control arms ( 3 bolts - your torsion bars will be out anyway) and put in new lower ball joints.
  • duranduran Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Explorer that keeps stalling. The dealer replaced the Air Mass Sensor but it doesn't seem to have solved the problem.

    The car stalls at a stop and the rpms drop to below 500. It will stall even when slowing to a stop. Once I shut the car down and put in park to restart it will be fine for a while and may not stall again that day or may stall again at the next stop.

    The dealership of course will charge $150 to diagnose if no problem is found. The Explorer has 42,000 miles and we are coming up to the 50,000 warranty cutoff and wouldlike it to get resolved before it costs real money.

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Who put the transmission in, You or a Shop? Is this an automatic or standard shift?
    It could be many different things. The linkage could be loose on the outside or inside of the transmission. The nuts may not be on the studs between the flywheel and torque converer. The driveshaft could be missing. There could be valve body or hydraulic problem. The input shaft could be missing (it could have sliped out the front of the pump). Check to see if the pump is pumping, by taking a transmission cooler line loose and putting a large pan underneath, start it up for a few seconds and fluid should shoot out one of the hoses. If it does, connect the hose back, pump is pumping. Check all the obvious, then next thing is to do pressure tests on the trans, using a 300 psi gauge and hose connected to the transmission pressure port to check line pressure. Should be around 60psi at idle, should increase to around 100 psi if you give it gas, especially if you put it in reverse, may go to 220 psi in reverse if you punch the gas. You need a good tech.

    Good Luck
    E.D in Sunny Florida
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    With explorers, if your engine starts and runs fine, but has idle or stalling problems, and no check eengine light is set, you should replace the idle air control valve.

    Pretty high likelyhood this will cure your problem.

    If you do not want to chance the 150.00 diagnostic fee, you can replace it yourself for 50 bucks or so and it will take you 20 minutes - very easy 2 bolt job.
  • duranduran Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. I wonder why the dealership can't be that creative?
  • kernkern Member Posts: 5
    My wife took the 2002 Eddie Bauer Ford Explorer to AAMCO yesterday and got a quote for $1,800 to fix a problem that this shop in Lakewood, CO has seen in more than 10 Explorers just this year. They said that Ford knows about this problem which was described as a pin that is at the wrong angle. The shop has to rebuild this area of the transmission (2nd hand information). Has anyone else dealt with this issue or been able to get a "secret warranty" through Ford. And, is $1800 reasonable if I have to have AAMCO fix the known problem?
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    There hasn't been a widespread problem concerning the transmission other than the solenoid. This is a KNOWN problem. There is a "pinon gear" in the rear-end that is also a known problem. Is this what they are talking about? BTW, whatever you do DO NOT TAKE IT TO AAMCO. At $1,800.00 that amount would have more than paid for a Ford extended warranty that I highly suggest for these vehicles......

    If it is the rear-end, you may be able to have them fix it or meet you half-way depending on the miles on the vehicle!
  • klcolstonklcolston Member Posts: 1
    I just replaced the halogen bulb in the right headlight of my 1995 E.B. because the low beam wasn't working but the high beam was, but the new bulb doesn't work on low beam either anybody have suggestions?
  • letterxletterx Member Posts: 4
    I have a 4wd 2002 Explorer and the o/d light flashes on and off. I brought it to the dealer 4 times and they replaced some parts but after you drive about 5 minutes the light starts to flash. I also noticed that the transmission lurches sometimes. The dealer is at a loss. Any one out there have these problems.
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    Yep, those trannys are known for shift solenoid problems which do not cost 1,800 to repair. So it MAY be fixable for less.

    In Denver I have had pretty good luck with shops that are "troubleshooter.com" recommended - you know - Tom Martino's web site.

    So I would suggest a second opinion at Advanced Transmission in Lakewood - it won't cost you anything. They are listed on troubleshooter.com. There are some other shops listed on there as well.

    I think a complete rebuilt tranny can be had for 2,000 to 2,400 depending on warranty and shop. You probably want to weigh doing an 1,800 repair vs a rebuilt tranny for a little more.
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    In general, if only one low beam is out suspect the headlight control module first(which I believe your E.B. has). If both low beams are out, suspect the multifunction switch on the steering column first.

    To be sure, you'll have to get the wiring diagram and test for voltage at the appropriate connectors - just be sure you get the E.B. wiring diagram
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    i thought when the o/d light flashes, it indicates tranny trouble...
  • exploded99exploded99 Member Posts: 67
    I guess I might give them the benefit of the doubt - I assume when they put your truck on the engine analyzer they really did find a problem with the MAF.

    Unfortunately, they don't usually look for two problems - he probably figured he fixed it.
  • kshelton1989kshelton1989 Member Posts: 1
    my 1996 explorer, 4.0, 4x4, automatic is making a pretty loud roaring sound in the right front end when i got about 35 mph, when i got at less speed its not nearly as loud, same if i go faster. i have almost new tires. it is not in 4x4 all the time, i already checked that. The sound appears like its coming from tire but it isnt. i think its coming from the axle or somwhere like that. When i put the engine in 1st and have about 3 rpms it has a ticking noise, but does this at no other time. Please help me with this.
  • xsailor46xsailor46 Member Posts: 1
    on my 2000 ford explorer the abs brake light stays on,i have all new brakes,fluid levels are up,,what else can i check?
  • cravincravin Member Posts: 4
    You can check the speed sensors wires and connectors which are located behind the front tires. You should see a gear with evenly spaced notches in it. Look for a wire that will lead you to the speed sensor which should be facing that notched gear. The ABS computer determines the speed of each wheel by the magnetic pulses signals sent from the sensor. Then it supplies each wheel with the proper amount of pressure. A crack in the sensors magnet or a torn wire from hitting some road debris can cause the ABS light to come on and stay on.
  • cravincravin Member Posts: 4
    Could be fuel pressure regulator is bad allowing too much fuel pressure. Hot soak condition when trying to restart your car. Good Luck
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