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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • I have an 05 V8 Automatic tranny that is making a loud noise that sounds like a Tuning Fork, no rhythm or reason to when the noise happens. The dealership cannot recreate the noise. Has anyone else experienced this problem?
  • I just replaced the transmission in my explorer. After I started it I put it in reverse and nothing happened. I can't get it to shift at all. As far as I can tell it has plenty of fluid. Does anyone have any Ideas on whats wrong? Any help would be appreciated.
  • I have a 2000 Explorer. Have had it for 5 months and realy do like it alot. Only problem is the front end pops when I go thruogh a dip or across a gradual bump. The weight on the front of the truck is lifted or releived(not hard or high into the air) and I will get a kind of muffled popping sound. I have looked several times and raised the front end but cannot locate the source. Can anyone help??
  • Probably a couple of things to look at - stop by an alignment shop and have them give you an opinion on your ball joints. These wear out in as little as 60k.

    The second thing to look at is the rear torsion bar mounts. There are covers over the rear mounts - remove the 4 bolts and take the covers off. Then spray wd 40 liberally over the back of each torsion bar where it rests up against the frame. Take it out and hit some bumps and see if the noise is gone. This works as long as the wd - 40 lasts.

    Ford replaced the torsion bars, rear torsion bar to frame insulators, torsion bar adjusting arms, and torsion bar adjusting bolts when I had the popping noise. I think parts were about 250.00.

    If you do work on the rear torsion bar mounts, it is very easy to go a little further, pull your lower front control arms ( 3 bolts - your torsion bars will be out anyway) and put in new lower ball joints.
  • duranduran Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Explorer that keeps stalling. The dealer replaced the Air Mass Sensor but it doesn't seem to have solved the problem.

    The car stalls at a stop and the rpms drop to below 500. It will stall even when slowing to a stop. Once I shut the car down and put in park to restart it will be fine for a while and may not stall again that day or may stall again at the next stop.

    The dealership of course will charge $150 to diagnose if no problem is found. The Explorer has 42,000 miles and we are coming up to the 50,000 warranty cutoff and wouldlike it to get resolved before it costs real money.

    Any thoughts?

  • Who put the transmission in, You or a Shop? Is this an automatic or standard shift?
    It could be many different things. The linkage could be loose on the outside or inside of the transmission. The nuts may not be on the studs between the flywheel and torque converer. The driveshaft could be missing. There could be valve body or hydraulic problem. The input shaft could be missing (it could have sliped out the front of the pump). Check to see if the pump is pumping, by taking a transmission cooler line loose and putting a large pan underneath, start it up for a few seconds and fluid should shoot out one of the hoses. If it does, connect the hose back, pump is pumping. Check all the obvious, then next thing is to do pressure tests on the trans, using a 300 psi gauge and hose connected to the transmission pressure port to check line pressure. Should be around 60psi at idle, should increase to around 100 psi if you give it gas, especially if you put it in reverse, may go to 220 psi in reverse if you punch the gas. You need a good tech.

    Good Luck
    E.D in Sunny Florida
  • With explorers, if your engine starts and runs fine, but has idle or stalling problems, and no check eengine light is set, you should replace the idle air control valve.

    Pretty high likelyhood this will cure your problem.

    If you do not want to chance the 150.00 diagnostic fee, you can replace it yourself for 50 bucks or so and it will take you 20 minutes - very easy 2 bolt job.
  • duranduran Posts: 2
    Thanks. I wonder why the dealership can't be that creative?
  • kernkern Posts: 5
    My wife took the 2002 Eddie Bauer Ford Explorer to AAMCO yesterday and got a quote for $1,800 to fix a problem that this shop in Lakewood, CO has seen in more than 10 Explorers just this year. They said that Ford knows about this problem which was described as a pin that is at the wrong angle. The shop has to rebuild this area of the transmission (2nd hand information). Has anyone else dealt with this issue or been able to get a "secret warranty" through Ford. And, is $1800 reasonable if I have to have AAMCO fix the known problem?
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    There hasn't been a widespread problem concerning the transmission other than the solenoid. This is a KNOWN problem. There is a "pinon gear" in the rear-end that is also a known problem. Is this what they are talking about? BTW, whatever you do DO NOT TAKE IT TO AAMCO. At $1,800.00 that amount would have more than paid for a Ford extended warranty that I highly suggest for these vehicles......

    If it is the rear-end, you may be able to have them fix it or meet you half-way depending on the miles on the vehicle!
  • I just replaced the halogen bulb in the right headlight of my 1995 E.B. because the low beam wasn't working but the high beam was, but the new bulb doesn't work on low beam either anybody have suggestions?
  • I have a 4wd 2002 Explorer and the o/d light flashes on and off. I brought it to the dealer 4 times and they replaced some parts but after you drive about 5 minutes the light starts to flash. I also noticed that the transmission lurches sometimes. The dealer is at a loss. Any one out there have these problems.
  • Yep, those trannys are known for shift solenoid problems which do not cost 1,800 to repair. So it MAY be fixable for less.

    In Denver I have had pretty good luck with shops that are "" recommended - you know - Tom Martino's web site.

    So I would suggest a second opinion at Advanced Transmission in Lakewood - it won't cost you anything. They are listed on There are some other shops listed on there as well.

    I think a complete rebuilt tranny can be had for 2,000 to 2,400 depending on warranty and shop. You probably want to weigh doing an 1,800 repair vs a rebuilt tranny for a little more.
  • In general, if only one low beam is out suspect the headlight control module first(which I believe your E.B. has). If both low beams are out, suspect the multifunction switch on the steering column first.

    To be sure, you'll have to get the wiring diagram and test for voltage at the appropriate connectors - just be sure you get the E.B. wiring diagram
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    i thought when the o/d light flashes, it indicates tranny trouble...
  • I guess I might give them the benefit of the doubt - I assume when they put your truck on the engine analyzer they really did find a problem with the MAF.

    Unfortunately, they don't usually look for two problems - he probably figured he fixed it.
  • my 1996 explorer, 4.0, 4x4, automatic is making a pretty loud roaring sound in the right front end when i got about 35 mph, when i got at less speed its not nearly as loud, same if i go faster. i have almost new tires. it is not in 4x4 all the time, i already checked that. The sound appears like its coming from tire but it isnt. i think its coming from the axle or somwhere like that. When i put the engine in 1st and have about 3 rpms it has a ticking noise, but does this at no other time. Please help me with this.
  • on my 2000 ford explorer the abs brake light stays on,i have all new brakes,fluid levels are up,,what else can i check?
  • You can check the speed sensors wires and connectors which are located behind the front tires. You should see a gear with evenly spaced notches in it. Look for a wire that will lead you to the speed sensor which should be facing that notched gear. The ABS computer determines the speed of each wheel by the magnetic pulses signals sent from the sensor. Then it supplies each wheel with the proper amount of pressure. A crack in the sensors magnet or a torn wire from hitting some road debris can cause the ABS light to come on and stay on.
  • Could be fuel pressure regulator is bad allowing too much fuel pressure. Hot soak condition when trying to restart your car. Good Luck
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