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Has anyone else replaced their OEM BF Goodrich tires on their Mountaineer (or Explorer)? What did you choose?
Ninety five percent of my driving is around town on paved roads, but I do have a country lane on a slight grade I travel twice daily (to and from work, and usually the last road in the township to be plowed after a snow storm).
I don't really want to go with an all terrain tire with a more aggressive looking tread.... would like to find something though that is decent in snow, has better tread life, but not sacrifice handling and noise level. When I say snow, I'm just talking 3 to 4 inches of unplowed snow... this is probably the most I would get caught in unexpectedly (as if let out of work early to make the 8 mile drive home because winter storm has started). If it's 8 to 10 inches fresh snow, I'm not driving anywhere until roads are plowed... or I'll drive my 96 Explorer AWD V8 with the Wrangler ATs.
I've narrowed it down to the Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza only by good reviews I've read and photos. Going into the tire store today to just have a look. The BF Goodrichs I have have 29.9" tire OD, Section Width 9.6" & 696 REVS per mile, the Alenza would be 29.4", Section Width 9.5" and 709 REVS per mile ... I'm guessing everything on these cars is computer syncronized, is this difference anything to be concerned about? All the other specs are in line.
From what I read, the Alenzas are being put on some upper end SUVS (Navigator, Suburban, Lexus, Tahoe).
Any thoughts, recommendations welcome!
You didn't say what engine and transmission you have. In any case, this is a job for ONLY a seasoned PRO to do. They are the most complicated part of your vehicle. Don't even think about it unless you are an expert automatic transmission rebuilder. They are Very Sensitive, the clearances are Very Critical, and all thust washers, bushings, bearings, clutches, servos, vavle body, splines, pump, torque converter must be carefully checked. It takes intimate knowledge of the transmission for a sucessful rebuild. It takes special tools to work on them. It is best to ditch the converter and put in a new or rebuilt one, because they get contaminated from the old fluid and parts debris. The Fluid Cooler and lines need to be flushed clean. You need a nice clean spacious work space, compressed air, cleaning solvents, etc.
What your tranny has is called morning sickness. The first thing to try, is pouring a bottle of LUCAS Transmission stop leak in it first. That may help considerably. It's the only additive that I would recommend, I've seen it work before.
E.D.
I will try this Lucas trans stop leak and see how well it works, but I know it will only slow the degrading process. I know sooner or later I will have to face this, so I would rather handle this as smart as I can. I don't have the money for a new car or a transmission. This is my only chance at fixing this. I have a friend who changed the transmission on a Ford Taurus. He told me that he bought a transmission rebuilt kit for about $300 and then replaced the parts that had degraded the most and it fixed the problem. He said the hardest part was getting to the transmission other than that he said that it wasn't that difficult just time consuming. I figured if he's not a pro and he figured it out, then I can possibly do the same. I'll I need is a book that gives me the break down and maybe the necessary steps to follow. Any Ideas or any other suggestions would help greatly???
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
thanks
no more k car = good good good
Nick
My alternator is supposedly making noise. The service manager told me so when I replaced a fuel line at the dealer. Although in my book it says something about cam chain noise and a 7 yr warranty. Any thoughts? I made an appt for monday at another ford dealer, but it's tough to tell who's honest. "
dodgekbad, The title of your post is "screaming" alternator, but in your messege it is "supposedly" making noise, so is the noise loud or soft? Do you hear it while driving? If the manager had to tell you it was making noise, maybe you didn't notice it until he mentioned it. Is it a whinning kind of noise? You should be able to tell where the noise is coming from yourself if you listen carefully from several different positions. Be very Careful to stay clear of the fan and belt!
Ebeyers, did you use an attorney or arbitration?:lemon:
Reg. Frank R.
I can't tell where the noise is coming from. Sounds like it could be from the alternator - if I knew where that was - it would help. On the back of my owners book - it says something about a cam chain making noise for that year. Btw, it is a v6 sohc. I figured that might be the source of the noise too. The noise is really noticeable when I have he hood up and the truck is at idle. I can here it faintly while driving and at stop lights however. It is a whine noise too.
"Based on our pleasant and virtually trouble-free ownership experience, we knew this was a vehicle we would feel comfortable selling to a private individual once our year-long test was complete"
Long-Term Test: 2002 Ford Explorer XLT
3 years and 60k; I suppose a few things break now and then. Too bad though.
Steve, Host
I am still wondering if I have to replace the wires and cap, along with the spark plugs however. The wires look new too. I've had the car since March of this year with 88k on it. It now has 99k. It's a '98, v6 sohc
I've had 4 Explorers, 91, 93, 97 and 00, driven to very high milage (over 150,000) and I never replaced spark plug wires on any of them. And I reduced the spark plug gaps in all of them.
I did have a Mercury Grand Marquis with a 4.6L V8 for a while before I had the 93 Explorer, and it needed wires at about 60,000 miles, the gaps had worn and increased to about .070". That's when I found out the big spark plug gaps burned the wires out faster. New wires for that thing were a hundred bucks, so I said 'never again' and reduced the gaps from .054" to .040", and it ran fine and no problems after that.
matt
Actually, those alternators hold up quite well, I never had to replace an alternator on any of my Explorers, the 91 and 93 XLT's went up to over 160,000 miles, the 97 is at about 143,000 and the 2000 is at about 113,000, with no alternator problems.
The sound will behave differently according to what it is. The alternator whine will change in pitch or loudness if the electrical load on it is changed significantly, such as turning on or off the headlights or AC. The power steering sound will change as you turn the steering wheel from side to side. Sound can also come from any of the rotating parts that the belt turns, the AC Clutch bearing, any idler pulley bearing, belt tensioner pully bearing, water pump, fan clutch, etc.
If you can't seem to isolate it, then it's best to take it to a good shop.
If the belt looks good or has been replaced, you could sand the backside lightly with some sandpaper to knock off any glaze. Belts and idlers are pretty cheap at most auto parts stores.
OR TAKE YOUR VIN NUMBER TO YOUR LOCAL FORD DEALER AND BUY THE CODE. I HAVE A MAILING TAG ON MY KEYS : FORD BOX 546 LATHRUP VILLAGE MI 48076 SENT THEM A LETTER.
I THIS HELPS
This being said, my question which I would like to put out here is this: Besides the huge money outlay I would occur, is there a way I could install this regulator myself? Is it true that I could not obtain the regulator from a different window in my car? Or is there a possible chance that it can be rebent into correct postion again without replacing? I did question this at repair shop, and was told I would not have access to blueprints of car only available to mechanics. Or do you think since i am a female... I received misinformation?
Thank You reading... welcome ideas
To maintain your window regulators, always spray the mechanisim with WD40 and with spray white grease when you have the inside door cover removed. AND at EACH normal oil change/service spray WD40 in all the channels that the glass slides up and down in, so that the glass always moves easily and smoothly. Also lube all the door hinges the same way at each service.
Good Luck,
E.D in Sunny Florida
I just bought a used 1999 Explorer sport 2door. The owner manual is missed. I wonder why my keyless entry can not lock the backdoor and it seems the key can not turn after inserted into the backdoor lock as I want to lock the door by key.
Another question: I read some forum and know how to code my personl code on driver door lock. But it seemed to me both my personl code and manufactural code will work at same time. I wonder if I can erase the manufacture code and only make my personal code work to open the door. It is safer and make me more comfortable to keep my stuff inside the truck.
Thank you for any hint. Merry chrismas!!
I am new to this board and have been trying to find an answer to my issue with no luck.
I have an 01 XLT with 75,000mi. I have noticed a drop in gas mileage and slight loss in power. I used to always get at least 300-325 a tank and it dropped to 270-290. My fuel filter was changed last summer. I was advised to put the Chevron fuel injector and intake valve cleaner in it. The stuff worked great! My mileage was back up and my slight power loss was gone. Now that I have re-filled my tank, I am back to the poor mileage and slight loss in power. I have also noticed that while sitting at a stop light it idles at about 600rpm and I believe it used to idle at 900-1000rpm. I have not noticed any other problems with it and it seems to run great.
Any help or advice I could get would be great. I am hesitant to take it to a repair shop with at least an idea of what my problem may be as I think I have been taken advantage of in the past. Being a single mom around the holidays, I have to watch my money closely.
Next, clean your mass air flow sensor. These get dirty over time and are known to cause performance and mileage issues. You can google this and find instructions. It does take a special socket to remove the screws holding it in - which can be found at most parts stores. Use a good throttle body cleaner and a couple of q tips. Not difficult.
Replace your air filter if you have not done so for a long time.
I'm guessing that these things will get your performance back, and should fix your mileage problem.
you need to replace plugs and wires. be sure to use antiseize on the plug threads and silicone dielectric grease in a ring inside both boots for each wire. this keeps moisture out and also lubricates the boot so it doesn't melt to the plug.
get a chunk of fuel line hose, too. make the first turn or two on the new plugs through vacuum hose slipped over the insulator, NOT through a socket wrench. that way, it's impossible to strip out the plug threads by crossthreading the plug. you can still kill 'em by muscling down the wrench at the final tightening, so don't go past 10-16 foot pounds.
2) the manufacturer code is not changeable, it's hardcoded. you are aware, right, that there are only a few hundred key notch combinations as well for the standard locks? you generally don't have to worry about the pro thieves, they don't need any steenking keys or codes. it's all to slow and stop the casual thieves. besides, windows break out with a rock in the hand or a roll of quarters, and that's the usual route thieves take to rip your Stuff off. don't leave it in the truck and it won't be ripped.
merry christmas.
we leave the climate control in auto all the time. sometimes, when the vehicle starts up, there is an odd smell - almost smoky, but not real bad. dissipates after a couple of minutes. seems to be in cold only, not during the summer.
I want to install the kit but I need to have a live electrical positive connection which is off when the car is turned off. I had hoped to use the cigarette lighter connection wiring but it is always on. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where to tap into a ignition off line?
Thanks
My 1999 ford Explorer sport has no horn and cruise control working. I checked the fuse box, the fuse for the horn blowed out. However, after I put a new fuse and try to horn it, the fuse immediately blowed out again. It seems there is short somewhere. Any suggestion for this problem, is it a bad clockspring? Thanks a lot.