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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bhmr59bhmr59 Member Posts: 1,601
    If the drop in gas milage is fairly recent, say since your area's temperatures dropped below 50*, the colder out doors temperature is probably the reason. The number of miles you get vs what you were getting is about a 10% drop. This is common in colder weather. If the temperature drops regularly into the 20's you should expect about another 10% drop in gas milage. Depending on how far you drive, the slight power loss could be due to the engine and oil not being warmed up which means a less efficient running engine (the cause of lower gas milage).
  • wpncwpnc Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Explorer V6 SOHC 4WD w/117K that makes the same noise. Did you ever determine the cause of this noise? Thanks.
  • tapedelaytapedelay Member Posts: 3
    We have a 2000 Ford Explorer Limited. It stalled twice yesterday and then just died. The engine would turn over, but would not start again. Repair shop said the computer system was wet and would need to be replaced ($650). It is still under warranty, but Ford says they will not cover if it is wet.

    Supposedly it can get wet by being parked uphill or by going through very deep puddles and neither of these apply. We bought the vehicle new and live in the Seattle area so we are always in the rainy weather and this is the first time this has happened.

    Has anyone else dealt with this?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Wet with what, Water? You havn't been driving through any five foot deep puddles lately, have you? I would really doubt that water could get into the computer, it certainly should be sealed. What repair shop did you take it to, dealer or a local garage? What diagnostic codes did they read from the computer? I never heard of this happening before. I would like to hear input from others on this subject.
  • tapedelaytapedelay Member Posts: 3
    We took it to a local garage, but we have gone to them for years. I don't know the diagnostic codes. The owner of the shop said either we went through huge puddles or parked uphill in a rainstorm. Neither apply. It has rained a lot, but we have lived in Seattle since we bought the ford new.

    It seems odd to me that this would happen now.
    Thanks for your reply.
  • tapedelaytapedelay Member Posts: 3
    Also, the Ford dealer told us that they don't seal the computers, that no manufacturers do. Our repairman said that if the part were sealed it would not have happened. He checked to see if there was a recall. The car is under cover most of the day and no puddle crossing.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    "The owner of the shop said either we went through huge puddles or parked uphill in a rainstorm. Neither apply. It has rained a lot, but we have lived in Seattle since we bought the ford new."

    It sounds like technology has passed this "good old boy" by. This is what you tell a customer when you have no idea what is wrong with the car and how to fix it. Pay the money and take it to the dealer. They will charge you between $75.00 and $100.00 to diagnose it and you can go from there. If you wish, once you find out what is wrong you can take it back to your mechanic. Although by the sounds of things I would run far, far away from him!
  • stunnin20s17stunnin20s17 Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport which keeps stalling out. The truck turns on and then right after that it stalls, I try to keep it running for a while by holding it at 2500 rpm but as soon as I take my foot of it stalls again. If you have any ideas of what might be wrong or suggestions please help. Thanks
  • pmasiakospmasiakos Member Posts: 2
    I had a 2000 Expedition XLT Sport, and it stalled on my wife twice, First time while entering an expressway. The dealer said it was a "ground bolt" that sheared off. Yeah, okay, The second time it stalled she was doing 65 on the expressway...Oh, and while I'm at it...what is it with Ford Roadside Assistance??? If you're on a highway, you're screwed. They'll only come to help you out on local roads. Oh, and this time the Dealer replaced the computer "brain". Since all of my vehicles are leased, this was covered under warranty.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I've examined the computers on both of my Explorers and found they are mounted in the firwall from the engine compartment side. If they are not sealed and are sensitive to water, it seems that they should at least have put a splash guard over the computer to keep the water off them.
    So, if I blasted the computer with a water hose, it would fry it? I won't try that anytime soon. I also wash off my engine at the car wash once in a while, so I will be careful not to direct any blast of water towards it, a good thing to know.
  • jikbaljikbal Member Posts: 1
    On below freezing days, the ext. temp gague starts around 44 degrees (F) and starts climbing upto 100 degrees. After it reaches 70+ degrees, the heater starts blowing cool air. I suspect it has something to do with the air mixture. If I press the Recirculate button, I get hot air again. Interestingly, pressing the recirculate button also makes the AC light come on (regardless of where the air is aimed at). Then I can press the AC button to turn it off.

    Took it to the dealer, and they kept the car for 2 days, but just as luck would have it, it behaved perfectly when at the dealer. And they claimed the computer codes show nothing wrong. Any suggestions?

    Thanks in advance
  • jerri1960jerri1960 Member Posts: 2
    When my ABS light came on, it stayed on. The dealership had to replace a speed control (I know, go figure ... something to do with the speed turning on the ABS light). The really scarey part, if that is the problem & you don't replace it, it can screw up the transmission!! Talk about a Gordian knot!!
  • groovhoggroovhog Member Posts: 6
    I checked the codes on it, and replaced crank sensor, water temp sensor.
    still shows 116 & 114 in that order

    Before that, I checked for spark... yes we have spark
    also fuel... yes good
    also inertia switch with meter
    also relays under hood with meter
    also all fuses a okay

    sometimes when I go to see if I did anything to make it run I'll get a POOFF backfire within the air manifold.
    white smoke

    I don't have an alarm system either

    thanks so much
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    This sounds like the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). My 97 model did the exact same thing about a year ago. The part is around $40 at AutoZone, and takes about 10 minutes to replace. On mine, it was located on the air intake, driver's side, a silver colored part. 2 bolts hold it in, and it has a small wiring harness plugged into it. On mine, the check engine light never came on, but it would not run unless I kept my foot on the gas pedal. Hope this helps.
  • groovhoggroovhog Member Posts: 6
    Put the new IAC in and still no start.

    What ever is controlling the injectors is out I think.

    I have fuel,spark and air, there just not meeting in the chamber...

    The exhaust pipe doesn't smell like fuel at all

    And yes the motor is blowing air.

    I have had the normal lifter tap, but that can't be the problem you think?

    Thanks everyone

    PS this is my daily transpo!
  • groovhoggroovhog Member Posts: 6
    I shot some starting fluid in the intake with no turnover results
    Oh boy, what does this mean?
    G
  • groovhoggroovhog Member Posts: 6
    come on guys err.. gals
    help me me out here..

    It's just a machine not your crazy neighbor kid
    gh
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    While waiting for responses in here, check out the "No Start" Problems discussion.

    Steve, Host
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    OK groovhog, let's check an obvious thing first. When you said you shot starting fluid into the intake, did you mean you shot it into the air filter end of the Air Tube, or did you shoot it into the throttle body? It is critical that the MAF on the AIR TUBE near the air cleaner detects AIR FLOW through the AIR TUBE, it sends a signal to the computer telling how much air in going through it and the computer assumes that this is the amount of air going into the engine, and adjusts the fuel injector rate accordingly. The More air it detects, the More fuel it injects. The LESS air it detects, the LESS fuel it injects. If the Air Tube Leaks or has a hole in it, the Computer will not allow the injectors to inject the correct amount of fuel. A hole in the Air Tube will cause the fuel injectors to barely pump any fuel or none at all. So, the first thing to do is remove the AIR TUBE between the Air Filter and the Throttle Body and Check it very carefully for any cracks or holes, especially underneath where it normally can't be seen. This is a common problem for older Explorers. Check that first, then we'll go from there. Make sure the MAF is working, with no dirt clogging it.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I just checked the codes:

    114 is "Intake air Sensor out of self test range"

    116 is "Coolant Temperature Sensor out of self test range"
  • kfellerskfellers Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys , having the same problem with my '99 Explorer. There are a set of wires bound together under each of the front seats, my mechanic said these are the seat air bag sensors. The thing is is that both of these have a yellow clip on the end and aren't hooked to anything, they are capped with factory caps. Mechanic says these might be "dummy" caps to complete the circuit and one might be faulty and that might be what's causing the problem. Trouble code was B1998 and I got a part number from this site but the Ford house said it's a good part number but doesn't show to go on an Explorer. Any info would be appreciated.
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    I went to 2 shops -- admittedly both were staffed by idiots -- who had no idea what I was talking about when I said I wanted to change axle fluid. My book says to do so at 100k miles. It's a '98 v6 sohc.

    I crawled under the truck over the past weekend and noticed both front and rear axle covers are leaking a little. In addition, the truck makes noise when cold and I turn the steering wheel.

    Is this an easy job? The rear one looks like a walk in the park. But the front one looks tough since I can't reach the top bolts easily and the cover has no clearance to come out. But do I basically just replace the gasket after unbolting the cover? Where do I fill it? I couldn't find a filler plug.

    I had my transfer case fluid changed 6 mo. ago for $35. This seems like a similiar repair. Should the axle fluid change be priced similiarly to the transfer case change? I'd just as soon let a shop do it for that little money.
  • tomligontomligon Member Posts: 2
    I'm seeing this question asked, but not answered. My wife has a 1996 Explorer, 4.0L V6, auto, 4wd. Just today the 4WD indicator light and 4WD LOW indicator light started intermittently doing 3 flashes. The owners manual says to take it to the dealer and spend money, with no indication of the nature of the problem. My Haynes manual does not even mention the problem.

    What is this indicating, and what does it take to fix?

    I just spent over $800 on a bad ABS sensor repair, and I'm losing my sense of humor with this kind of nuttiness. I'm about ready to trade this bugger in on a 56 Willys.
  • tomligontomligon Member Posts: 2
    My experience is with rear differential fluid (similar problem). I have never seen a vehicle with a problem caused by old differential gear oil. I have, however, seen two cases where a shop forgot to refill a differential after draining old oil. This results in a total siezure at a very inopportune time, typically at highway speeds. The skid can be breathtaking.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    The skid can be breathtaking.

    Apparently, you have a penchant for understatement. :)

    tidester, host
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    It has been a while since I had my Explorer repaired, but I did have a problem with an airbag wire harness that was replaced under warranty. The "yellow clips" you mention I believe are for side air bags that were an option on the 99 Explorer. They really don't do anything if you don't have side air bags. Bottom line is don't fiddle with the airbag circuitry if you don't know what you are doing. If the airbags go off while you are working on the car they could produce serious or fatal injuries. This might be a problem that is best handled by Ford. I would bring the truck to a reliable Ford Dealership and see what they diagnose.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    "Put the new IAC in and still no start.

    What ever is controlling the injectors is out I think.

    I have fuel,spark and air, there just not meeting in the chamber...

    The exhaust pipe doesn't smell like fuel at all"

    That may indicate the engine is not getting enough fuel.

    "And yes the motor is blowing air."

    Blowing air from where? Do you mean from the spark plug hole with the plug removed? Do you have good compression?

    "I have had the normal lifter tap, but that can't be the problem you think?"

    LIFTER TAP noise is NOT normal.
  • dlinnadlinna Member Posts: 1
    I have an 04 Eddie Bauer Explorer with a V8. When I make a slow speed turn, like into a parkings spot, the vehicle often hesitates, and then there is a clunk noise like some part has cleared an obstruction or shifted over. (Or, I sometimes think the 4x4 is engaging when it shouldn't be.)

    Any ideas?
  • groovhoggroovhog Member Posts: 6
    I'm checking the fuel pressure today.
    The air movement is from the exhaust pipe, to rule out any obstruction at the c converters.
    And yes , good compression

    Thanks and stay tuned
    g
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    So unless it starts leaking really bad I am OK?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I would definitely have it taken care of immediately. I was commenting on your skidding at highway speed remark - "breathtaking" doesn't begin to desribe how I would feel about it!

    tidester, host
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    Why? I thought we agreed it is only problem if the fluid wasn't topped off after being changed?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Did you check the Air Intake Tube yet? Any leaks or holes in it? If you find any cracks or holes, you can wrap the duct with duct tape and put it back on and try it.
    The interesting thing about that problem is that if the Air Intake Duct leaks, The engine will run very badly or not at all, and it will NOT light the Check Engine Light or set any computer codes, because everything is working as fine as it should, except the intake air is leaking past the MAF, bypassing the MAF, causing the computer to misread the amount of air going into the engine, making the computer think that there is very little air going into the engine, therfore making the injectors pump very lean.
    Checking the fuel pressure is also a good idea.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    CAUTION!
    Beware of Yellow Wiring Connectors! They mean STRICKLY - DANGER - DO NOT TOUCH!
    The SRS (Supplimental Restraint System)(Air Bag System) is very dangerous to work on, can cause injury or death if an air bag explodes near you. It takes special training to work on them.
    If you must work on or under the dash or under the seats, or on the steering wheel, or under the car near the front bumper or grill, or anywhere the yellow connectors and their wiring is, be sure to disconnect the car battery and let it set for at least 10 minutes before you touch anything. Also pull the SRS fuse.
    Remember, Safety First!
  • keithandhannahkeithandhannah Member Posts: 1
    I was wanting to see if anyone could tell me how to change the flywheel a kinda easy way?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Do a Google Search for "Automotive Repair Forum" to find an in depth answer to your question.
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Member Posts: 56
    I took it to a shop and got it done for $80 yesterday. In a way it's a good thing because I was ready to remove the front ax cover, which I was told later by the tech isn't removable w/o taking the front ax off.

    It didn't solve my noisey front end problem and after the fluid change, the car started shaking a lot during turns. I brought it back to the shop, and they said they'll look at it today, but the the vibration seemed to have gone away. The slight leak is apparently normal because Ford doesn't make a gaskt for those ax covers. Now they tell me....

    WHo knows any more with these things....I am not changing my spark plugs or wires for awhile, since it's a pain-in-the-neck and expensive; And because nothing is wrong with my car. It's a v6 sohc with 99k miles.
  • r_scott82r_scott82 Member Posts: 2
    Hey, I had the same thing happen to my car. I went to the dealership and found that the explorers have a recall on the air intake tube. so you may want to check that out first. If your not over 72K in miles.
  • r_scott82r_scott82 Member Posts: 2
    Can someone help me? After I my car runs for about 20mn my thermastate gage in the car starts to fluxuate from mid hot to extremely hot. I checked the Radiator Fluid last night, its fine. What may be the cause?
  • sooquietsooquiet Member Posts: 3
    My 98 Explorer 4X4 has a high pitched noise around the front wheels. The noise starts around 5 mph and continues up to about 30 mph, where it probably just gets so high pitched that I can't hear it. Sometimes it's a steady tone and sometimes it comes and goes. I've had the wheel bearings and the front brakes replaced and it's still there. This is a 4X4 with the automatic setting as well as hi and low 4X4.

    Anyone have an idea as to what to try next? The noise is so loud that I can hear it with the windows up between 5 and 30mph.
  • lateralglateralg Member Posts: 929
    Temperature sending unit, its connectors, or its wiring.
  • stunnin20s17stunnin20s17 Member Posts: 2
    Hi guys, I got another question. While im driving and I accelerate, when my truck hits 2500 rpm a strange squel comes from the engine bay and stops at 3000 rpm. Then when it goes back down it stops right under 2500 rpm. I thought it might be the belt slipping but when I checked that out nothing was wrong. Does anybody have an idea?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    It sure sounds like a belt or pully. Did you have the AC on at the time? Replace the belt with a new one, see if that helps. While the belt is off, check all the pullies by checking for play, wobble and any roughness while spinning them. Keep the old belt for an emergency spare in the jack compartment. It's always good to have a spare belt anyway, just in case.
    If you still have a squeal, then check all the pullies, take great care to keep clear of the fan and belt! You can use a length of vacuum hose to locate the squeal, put one end to your ear and probe the other end near where the squeal might be, keeping clear of all moving parts. If squealing is not found in the pullies, then check the alternator bearings.

    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • chrislachrisla Member Posts: 4
    I am in the market for a used SUV in the $4k range.

    I have found a number of 96-99 Explorers in that price range that I am thinking about going to look at in the next week or so.

    I was wondering what probelms with those model years are most common, and if there is anything specific I should look out for while I kick the tires.

    Thanks!
  • chrislachrisla Member Posts: 4
    I was dealing with a similar problem on a different car of mine and I think it's the CV Joint.

    You may want to read the bottom part of this page:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CV_joint
  • phylisphylis Member Posts: 1
    1. Last month my heater stopped working...just blows cold air. my engine gage wont heat, I let my truck warm up for about 10 min before leaving due to the weather. I checked the fluids and changed the thermostat and still nothing, I changed the heater core last year.

    2. When I am driving and get to about 25-35 mph, my engine makes this knocking sound. it does sound like when you don't have enough oil..I checked my oil had an oil change and fluids they are fine.
    any suggestions.
    I just don't want my engine to blow.
  • steve85steve85 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Explorer that intermittantly evokes a loud skreeching noise from the rear compartment area. The noise lasts sometimes up to about 10 seconds. It can be heard outside the vehicle as well as annoyingly inside. I have had it to the dealer five times and they have not been able to duplicate it. Of course when I drive away it may occur again. Ford has not been able to diagnose the problem. The vehicle may be idling, moving, fan on or off etc. Anyone have any similar issues that they can help me with?
  • ksb524ksb524 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1998 Explorer limited, and for whatever reason the driver door will no longer open. The power locks will unlock the door, but you cannot open the door from the inside or the outside, I am pretty sure its something loose inside the door, but how do I get it open to take off the door panel??? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! KEN
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    If you are having problem with the antifreeze being low every two weeks, you have a leak somewhere and yu need to get it looked at right away. If the antifreeze is not leaking onto the pavement then you are losing into the engine which over time cna cause major engine problems. Sister-in-law ruined her Explorer that way. Needed an engine re-build.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    If you have Auto climate control, the temperature sensor determines what mode it is in. The temperature reading goes to 100 degrees tells the system to kick on the AC. It sounds like yu needa new temperature sensor. Hopefully someone more knowledgable with teh Explorer can tell you where it is locaed. In most vehicle it is located near the front of the car away from the motor.

    In the meantime, you should switch to "manual" mode. If you still have problems with the heat, then you have another problem.
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