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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

194959799100125

Comments

  • cmruffcmruff Member Posts: 15
    I'm temporarily driving my parents' 1999 Explorer and I can't find their manual. I seem to have inadvertantly turned the high beams on. How do I turn them off?
    Thanks.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    You can stop by your handy auto parts store to get the code read then post the code. somebody should be able to hlep you. Considering the mileage, the oxygen sensor is the likely culprit. You cna probably drive it with no problems but you may get reduce gas mileage.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I believe the high beams are activated by pulling the turn signal towards you. So push it back into it's orignal positon and it should turn off.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    "You can stop by your handy auto parts store to get the code read then post the code. somebody should be able to help you. Considering the mileage, the oxygen sensor is the likely culprit. You can probably drive it with no problems but you may get reduce gas mileage."

    Considering the mileage? 47K is very low, oxygen sensors don't go bad that often if maintenance is kept up and driven propery. My 1991 and 1993 Explorers both went over 150K with the original oxygen sensors, and the gas mileage did not depreciate, they only got about 13 in town anyway. My wifes 1997 Explorer with 5.0L V8 has over 145K with original oxygen sensors, and my 2000 Explorer with 5.0L V8 has over 118,000 miles with original oxygen sensors. Gas milage on both is normal, about 14 in town.
  • jschjsch Member Posts: 1
    I have had the exact problem. One fuel pump change and other "sensor" replacements did not fix the problem. Had a complete "wiring harness" replacement which fixed the problem for 2+ years however, the problem has returned. Only this time the car will not start at all (cranks but will not start). In the past if I waited 30-45 minutes it would start...not this time, and the local mechanic continues to trouble-shoot??????? John
  • elcplelcpl Member Posts: 1
    Help anyone. I recently started to feel a sway on 03 explorer. i thought it could be alignment so i got the alignment done but it is still pulling to the side. Feels like it will loose control by slipping or swaying. Any suggestions before i waste money i dont need to?
  • fitguyfitguy Member Posts: 220
    " as I haven't been drunk enough to be a passenger while she's driving. "

    Now THAT'S funny! And I know what you mean- my wife's nickname is "Curb Queen" (she scrubbed all the lettering off the tires on our old Expedition; when I replaced them I had the new ones mounted with white lettering to the inside!). About the only time I experience her driving is coming home from a party, and I'm usually asleep after 5 minutes (thankfully)! :D
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    i had a 1996 V8 Explorer and the oxygen sensor went around 50k miles. Same thing on my 1991 Explorer. BTW the 1991 Explorer lasted until 103k miles until we traded it for the 1996 Explorer. BTW, we finally had to trade it in at 145k miles because my wife backed into a loading dock and we could not close the lift gate glass. Haivng the interior lights stay on all night gets annoying.

    Also when I had the sensors replaced, the service manager (independent garage) mentinoed this was a common problem with the Explorer. Not everyone has this problem obviously but considering what the OP stated, the oxygen sensor would be my first guess but he/she should take it to an auto part store and get the code read. Then there will be no question.
  • daryll44daryll44 Member Posts: 307
    Someone on one of the newsgroup bulletin boards suggested I disconnect the battery and reset the computer...that perhaps someone had not tightened the fuel cap and this would reset it. Well, I did exactly that and after 500 miles the light STILL has not come back on! Interestingly my wife bot gas last week (just before the light came on) which she rarely does. So perhaps she did not tighten the gas cap and this was the cause of the (now reset) light.
  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    and I'm usually asleep after 5 minutes (thankfully)!

    You're a braver man than I! :P
  • fixitrodfixitrod Member Posts: 67
    I have the same problem with my 98 XLT; the door lock will not lock the doors but will unlock them all from the drivers side. What was your problem. All the others locks work. I replaced the control and this did not fix it. I jumped the contacts and it did not work so it appears there is not fire going to the unit? however all the other mechanisms(windows, unlocking) work. Also does anyone with a sohc V6 experience the whine in the transmission and is there a solution to improve this?
  • rcocborcocbo Member Posts: 1
    I had a problem with my ford explorer the other day. I was sitting at a red light. the light turned green, i took my foot off the brake and pushed the accelerator. my car moved about 2 feet and all 4 tires locked up. the motor was still running and the gear shift was in drive. it sounded like i had come to a screeching stop. my car wasn't moving. i put the gear shift in park for a couple of seconds and then back to drive. it drove fine back to my office. does it sound like transmission or anti-lock brake system acting up? ford dealership says nothing comes up on the codes. 1996 explorer with 140,000 miles. help!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Good! It seems like that may have been the problem. good luck!
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Member Posts: 245
    have an 02. sometimes, when opening the rear door, the interior light does not come on. always come on when you hit they key fob 1st. but, when in the garage we put the kids in first in the rear and no light. is this normal?
  • carolk1carolk1 Member Posts: 1
    I was stopped at a stop sign and a little puff of smoke came from around the emergency flasher button on my 2000 Explorer XLT. My husband and I stopped and took the keys out and looked under the hood, but nothing was amiss. Started back home and realized that the puff of smoke happens only when the left turn signal is on. I have been searching the 'net and haven't found anything specific--just lots of unexplained Ford fires in F150 trucks on a certain consumer website...
    My Explorer has 43,600 miles and was purchased used from my cousin a year ago. Has been a great vehicle 'til now!
    I'm a bit worried---Does anyone know what's happening ?
    (I have already made an appt with the local dealer for Monday)
    Thank you !!!!!
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    With 56K miles, my Explorer developed a grinding/binding feel at rear axle when the wheel were truned and was ready to take off. The dealer diagnosed the problem as "Sticking clutch plates" in rear axle. While they were replacing the clutch pack, they also replaced gear& pinion, and it apears that most moving parts in the rear axle.

    I have an extended warranty to 75K miles. It cost me $100 deductible to have this fixed. Do NOT buy an Explorer without at least the $800 5year/75K extended powertrain warranty. I am not a believer in buying extended warranties, but with 2002-2005 Ford Explorer it is a must. I chose an Explorer over Toyota 4 Runner, and Honda Pilot. I knew the Explore is not nearly as reliable, but I liked the Explorer looks, room, and its ability to pull.

    Joe
  • olsencolsenc Member Posts: 1
    hello-
    I think i just figured out what milage that this happens at.

    I have a 2000 explorer eddie bauer with 43,500 miles and that just happened to me, it's happened about four times in the last week, and now i know what it is. It's a short in the "multifunction switch" which is your turnsignal, wiper, hi/low beam, hazard control.

    This switch is ford part # YL5Z 13K359 AAA and can be purchased from the dealership for about 85 bucks. It is VERY easy to replace and only requires removing several screws to get the steering column cover off. I don't know what the dealer would charge to do that but seriously you can do it yourself, i just did it this morning.
    rockauto.com also has these switches at about half the price, but i opted to change this out stat as it's a fire hazard.

    good luck
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    It's the multifunction switch going bad, a common problem on explorers. It needs to be replaced ASAP. It is easy to do it yourself, if you want. Ours lasted to past 130,000 miles. I paid $63.62 for the 1997 Ford Explorer part at the Ford dealer in St Pete. I stated this back in post #4924.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You would not have had that problem if you would have checked the fluid level to be sure it was full with the correct fluid and then went out into a large empty parking lot and done a bunch of "figure eights" in both directions when you first noticed the problem. I don't know if it would have help after they started sticking and binding badly though.
    That is a rare problem to have, as most people exercise the friction plates enough in normal driving. It could have possibley went bad due to a low fluid level or lack of "friction modifier" additive. There might have been a small leak or seepage to cause loss of fluid. It could also be damaged by any water leaking into the differential, by going through high water, with a damaged, loose or broken vent hose. Just be sure that rear axle has the correct 75W-140 Synthetic lubricant and "friction modifier" additive, the vent hose is in good shape and the vent not clogged. Check your owners manual for fluid requirements.
  • ecnirpecnirp Member Posts: 20
    I need to replace the Dome lamp light bulb in a 2004 Explorer XLT. I'm having trouble removing the platic cover to get to the light. I took 2 flat head screw drivers and put them on each end to try and pry it open but it wouldn't come out. I'm don't want to try to hard and break the cover. Is there some other way to get this off?
  • tito79tito79 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Mercury mountaineer and found the alternator not putting out any voltage but the check system on the truck said that the charging system is okay. I trust my fluke voltage meter than that of the trucks. So I replaced the alternator and got 14.21 vdc to the battery plus or minus. The display now tells me to check the charging system. Already left the battery disconnected overnight to reset the ECM but it didn't help is there anything else that i can do to make the truck realize that the alternator is working.
  • miketag83miketag83 Member Posts: 1
    I am having a problem with my interior lights with my 200 explorer. The other night they wouldn't turn off and they still wont turn off which resulted in me removing the bulbs. Are there any suggestions on how to solve this problem?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Pull the fuse for now.
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    There is a dimmer switch on the dash that if rotated "up" as far as it can go will turn on the interior lights. If the switch is in the "on" position the lights will stay on. Try rotating the switch down. If you hear a click, I'll bet the light will turn off.
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Member Posts: 833
    I'm looking to purchase a used Ford Explorer 2-3 years old.

    What I've gathered here is that the V8 is more desireble than the V6. Comments here have led me to believe the extra power doesn't come at much of a sacrifice to gas milege.

    But after scanning used Explorers, there are many more V6's for sale making them easier to find and cheaper to purchase.

    Is there a model year of the Explorer in the past 4+ that marks a big change? Has the engine or chasis changed much?

    thanks,
  • voltzftnvoltzftn Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 Explorer just hit 45,000 miles and the crack developed. Like everyone else the dealership WILL NOT solve the problem I was told this is a legitimate Better Business Compliant and once a compliant is filed than the dealership is out of it's highly sought after awards. So now if everyone complains to their local BBB Catching ON?? See what will happen to Fords precious awards!!!
  • slp54slp54 Member Posts: 1
    My son has a 2001 Exp Sport that apparently needs major tranny work. Overdrive light flashes, shifts hard, kicks out of gear etc. My neighbor has a 98 ( I think) Explorer that was wrecked. This tranny has been re-built twice. Will the 98 swap to the 2001? What years will swap to the 2001? It doesn't appear that these trannys are real durable. I have a 2004 Ranger F/X, how long do you think it will last?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    We have a 2004 Explorer V6-2WD (8K miles), that even though it has had the transmission recall additive a while ago, has just recently had 3 situations where the transmission shifted after about a second of putting in gear. Happened twice going into D, and once going into Reverse. Are folks still having transmission shifting problems after the additive recall?

    My second problem is a rough idling and what appears to be a dash vibration when slowly decelerating to a stop. Anybody aware of any TSB's or problems that would cause this?

    Appreciate any input you can give, these problems are pretty frustrating.
  • mtnman1mtnman1 Member Posts: 431
    I think this is normal as far as a delay for the Transmission to engage. I have a 04 Mountaineer V-8 AWD and had the Additive put in at about 3K or 4K miles. They also replace the selanoid the next time I had it in for an oil change because I was getting a hard shift when going from reverse to drive. Haven't had any issues with it since. I was told that all the Explorer's and Mountaineer's have this delay.
    2012 Highlander Limited AWD V6 and 2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid SE
  • brian37brian37 Member Posts: 1
    1997 Explorer XLT 4.0 L SOHC
    My Supply fuel line (only) has a leak. A new one at Ford will cost approx $530.00 as Ford will only sell a complete fuel rail. There is no after market for this part and the salvage yards will not sell a fuel line only as it is considered an integral part of the engine. $530.00 plus tax seems a lot of money for a 2 ft braided flexible fuel line! Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • tavtav Member Posts: 2
    I have the exact same problem. It occured just after I backed into a pile of snow which jarred the back bumper. Not enough to cause any damage and I'm not sure if it is relevant but it is odd that it happened at the same time. This is obviously a manufactures defect, and a dangerous one at that, but you won't hear that from Ford. I have a 2000 Explorer Eddie Bauer and just spent $400 at the dealer to fix it. The mechanic at the dealership admits that this is common but won't give me any numbers. Anyone know who to complain to at Ford?
  • perkins1perkins1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Explorer XLT with leather seats that are cracking. I purchased the vehicle new 15 months ago and have just under 11,000 miles on the Explorer. The dealer replaced the driver seat with cracks in them around 4,000 miles. Now one of the rear seats is cracking. The vehicle is used for normal use wiht no heavy objects transported on the seats. I purchased the Explorer from a dealer in Tampa, Florida. The truck was manufactured in August 2004 and I purchased it in December 2004 with only 3 miles on it so it appears to have sat on the lot for 4 months. I store the vehicle in a garage. Any ideas on what is wrong with the seats?
  • jazzyman26jazzyman26 Member Posts: 18
    I have a 1995 ford explorer XLT with 170,000 miles no real major problem other than fuel pump replacement about a year ago,bought it with 62,000 miles.Having trouble with the dashboard light half is readable the other half is not .I'm thinking it's a blown bulb having check the fuse.Also, I grinding noise from the rear mainly when backing out or startup driving at low speed that the only time that I hear it.Brake were inspected all good might need a 2ND option any recommendation.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Perkins,
    Would you happen to have a digital picture of how bad your seats cracked? I'm getting little cracks on our seat also, which is 2004 bought at end-of-year so we've only had it about 18 months as well, with 8K miles.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    image is a good place to make albums and post those cracking leather pics. Just log in with your Edmunds username and password and you're off and running.

    Click on a member's name and then the CarSpace link in their profile (like mine :shades: ) to easily get to their page.

    Steve, Host
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Member Posts: 245
    50,000 miles on an 02 limited, still have never changed the brakes. when can i expect to have to change the brakes? what is typical?
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,257
    don't forget the 'cracky' rear liftgte!
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • rperkinsrperkins Member Posts: 1
    Cannot find fuel filter. I just changed the one in F150 and had no problems but CANNOT locate this one??ANy help
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Dealer replaced the solenoid in the transmission to address the 'slow to engage' problem, indicated it was part of a TSB. The dealer also rerouted some wiring that was vibrating against the firewall, which fixed the dash vibration issue.
  • skeet89skeet89 Member Posts: 1
    i have the same problem with my 91 explorer i hear the motor going but the window either wont move or it will slightly. Do u have any suggestions?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You do not have the same problem at all. You have the most common of all window lift motor problems and the easiest to fix. The Plastic gear inside the window motor is not turning because there are 3 round plastic cylinder shaped pieces in the middle of the plastic gear that deteoriate to pieces, and let the center drive mechanism slip inside the gear, so the motor turns but the gear does'nt. You can remove the motor and replace it, (about $70 at auto parts)or take the motor apart, clean it out and replace the 3 plastic clyinder pieces, available at CarQuest Auto Parts, (only place I've seen it)called "The Last Bushing", a small kit, that cost about 10 bucks, if you are mechnically inclined.
  • supermatsupermat Member Posts: 1
    If you have not already solved the chirping problem, it is caused by the brake pads being stuck in the caliper and just lightly rubbing on the rotor. Your old mechanic will have removed the pads, cleaned the mounts and lubricated with copperslip. I guarantee that is the problem.
    Mat.
  • tomholttomholt Member Posts: 1
    Check along the frame rail beneath the drivers side door. It should be mounted right to the rail. You will need a special tool to release the fuel lines. You might also want to read up on depressurizing the fuel line. I would advize to you do that before removing the existing filter.
  • jrvallejojrvallejo Member Posts: 5
    Can anyone tell me where the pcv valve is located for a 1995 ford explorer 4.0 liter V6 please i had spent 6 hours trying to locate it. Thank you!!
  • pmadsenpmadsen Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ford Explorer and have a terrible squeak in the front part of the engine. I have replaced the tensioner pulley and also replaced the idler pulley, thinking this was the problem. I have taken off the belt and ran the engine and I still have the squeak. It sounds like it is coming from the crankshaft seal. What is the best way to solve this problem, I try and do all my own repairs. I read a message on here that said they used marine grease to solve this problem. What is the best why to access the seal. Please help, thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Taking the belt off leaves only the crankshaft and the camshaft as potential problems.....both very serious. Get it to an engine repair shop ASAP before you allow more damage to occur.
  • fordsstumpmefordsstumpme Member Posts: 2
    I have a problem with a 94 Explorer engine. It starts and idles fine but cuts out when you give it gas. It will rev up if you slowly push the throttle but has very little power and revs down slowly. I replaced a couple of cracked rubber lines on the back drivers side of the intake, and it helped a little, but the vehicle won't make enough power to drive and still cuts out when you push the gas pedal down to a normal driving amount. It has no check engine light on, so I haven't tried to figure out how to read the trouble codes. Wish it was OBD2!!! I have a reader for those. Hope someone can help me with this. It's my mother in law's car and I'm trying to fix it for free since she is broke, so I don't want to start swapping the MAF and IAS etc. The exhaust seems to blow OK so I think the Cat isn't plugged. It also has 174K of trouble free miles!!! Plugs and wires are OK. Anyone have the cure?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You need some diagnostics here. Connect a Vacuum Gauge to the intake manifold and check the vacuum. Check all the hoses for cracks and leaks.
    You can also loose vacuum at the Power Brake Booster, or from loose intake manifold bolts. Check intake manifold bolts for tightness, if you find any loose, snug them down, don't ovetighten them.
    How about the fuel filter, has it been changed lately? It sbould be changed every 30K.
    Check the Air Intake Tube between the MAF and the Throttle Body, they tend to crack and leak on the underside, take it off and check it carefully. If the Air Intake Tube leaks, it can make the vehicle run very badly, because the engine is getting more air than the computer thinks, and it calibrates the fuel mixture too lean. If you find any cracks, tape it up with duct tape to see if it makes any improvement. If it does improve, put on a new Air Intake Tube.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • pafriedleypafriedley Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1993 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Ed. and the automatic 4 WD does not work any more. I can't figure out what is wrong and the only thing I have not doe is replace the control panel (buttons) for the automatic 4WD found on the dash. Has anyone had this problem?
    Thanks.
  • pafriedleypafriedley Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1993 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Ed. and the automatic 4 WD does not work any more. I can't figure out what is wrong and the only thing I have not done is replace the control panel (buttons) for the automatic 4WD found on the dash. Has anyone had this problem?
    Thanks.
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