Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

tazsp2 · June 2006

The guy was refered to me by a friend who said that he did excellent work. Of course you know Ford wanted $3500.00 dollars. Which I do not have. So if you know of any web sites that I can go and do more research on the problem let me know. In the mean time I am stuck with the piece of $%^#. I still owe a few payments on it and trading it in with the noise that it is making not sure what the out-come of that will be. Thanks for the help and advice it was greatly appreciated.

alman08 · June 2006

sigh... the rear axle on my 02 is leaking again... :sick:
had both left and right rear axle seals replaced just 20k miles ago. I thought the seals should last a tad longer than that. Service advisor at the dealer said the axle seal isn't a common problem with the explorers... blah blah blah.. and now my car is out of warranty (has 70k miles on it). Anyway, you think I should let the dealer perform the repair on this or can I trust independent shops over this matter. Dealer gave me an est. of $550.

electricdesign · June 2006

A second opinion wouldn't hurt, they might even be able to give you some insight on why the axle seals were so short lived. Myself, I think they should have lasted way longer. I think the repair was flawed, it is possible that they did not put lubricant on the inside of the new seals, or the surface on the half shaft that the seal contacts was not smooth, or was worn.
Good Luck.
E.D. ISF

alman08 · June 2006

Thanks... I'm out of luck with the dealer which fixed it 20k miles ago. They said it's too long ago and they couldn't and wouldn't warrant it. I'm taking it to another Ford dealer this time for a fix. Hopefully it will get the job done right this time. Part is cheap, labor is @#$$%$$@#!#$%

davidzeta · June 2006

I have the same car. It came up with a noise that sounded more like a valve tapping. Turns out the rocker arm on the #1 cyl intake valve had shifted forward, due to a spring clip breaking on the front of the rocker shaft. 165K miles. Pretty simple fix.

alman08 · June 2006

hey electricdesign, I have a question for you and hope you can understand what I'm talking about...

So I got my car back from the dealer, leak was fixed (replaced both seals again) and when I got home, I looked at the side of the car (drive side) and noticed the rear brake wire or cable was kind of hanging low in a clip (a pin like holder). I didn't remember seeing it that way before and when I compared it to the passenger side, the brake cable's also held by the same pin accept it's hanging high. For the longest time, I couldn't figure out how that happened, and then I noticed that someone had actucally bent that clip. Fortunately, the cable isn't touching the rear wheel (has a gap of about 1/2 inch). My question is, when they worked on the axle seals, you think they have to remove the brake cable and stuff?? I want to make sure before I go back and demand a new clip for that cable if the tech had bent it. Thanks.

electricdesign · June 2006

Yes, I'm sure that stuff was taken loose, as both right and left halfshafts have to be removed to replace the seals. There just may be some slack that is not taken up in the cable. Try setting and releasing your emergency brake a few times to see if that tightens it up. If no change take it back and ask them to look at it.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

tazsp2 · June 2006

Hey davidzeta, I will investagate it and see if it is that. thank you

alman08 · June 2006

I feel so bad luck about my truck... after 20k trouble free miles the rear end started to leak again, which it's fixed last Friday. Saturday, didn't see a drop of oil on the garage floor, great. Sunday, didnt' see a drop of oil on the garage floor, excellent! Monday, there it went again with a leak, HELL! sooooo bad luck. Am I the only one having axle seals problems?? :sick:
I remember last year when they fixed the seals the first time, they had to do it twice after the first repair. Maybe it will be fixed and good for another 20k miles after I bring it back for another repair next week. :confuse: :lemon:
Now when is Ford going to issue a recall on that so I can claim my $$$$$$$$$ :mad: :surprise:

dave111 · June 2006

We bought a 2002 from someone at 45k miles it was making some serious noises.Had it taken care of for $600. Come to find out previous owner had ring and pinion work done under warranty at 31k miles.Someone else has said that Ford changed to aluminum rear axles with half shafts starting in 2002. We may get rid of what we have and get a Chevy? Ford screwed up! They should do a recall!

theturc · June 2006

have had my 2004 in 3 times for rear end problems (two new ring and pinions and one complete new rear end). I have also had transmision problems. The vehicle has been in the shop three times for coming out of gear while you are driving down the road. Ford again told me there is nothing they can do as they cant duplicate the problem. WELL, problem solved. I am buying another Chevy and getting rid of this piece of junk. (2004 explorer, 22k miles) First Ford owned in 20 years. Now I know why I bought Chevys.

electricdesign · June 2006

I feel bad for all you guys, these Ford rear end and transmission problems are really bad. I reiterate my post #5085, I think that about says it all. Note that I have a 97 and 2000 Ford Explorer, both 5.0L V8, and I said in that post that they would be my last Explorers. I won't own the 6 clyinder, way to much trouble with them too. The 2001 is the last good Explorer they made, because it was the last one with the cast iron straight axle rear end. 2002 was the begining of the serious problems with the "new" aluminum rear axle with the half shafts. I wish they would have made the "new" rear axle an option, and kept the cast iron straight rear axle as standard equipment. I don't know why they have so many problems with the seals leaking, and gears whining, but they do, must be some slop in the parts somewhere. The whole aluminum rear end is junk, and I won't own one. That's why I was talking about getting something else next time. It's my only choice now. I had a 99 Chevy Blazer before, but it had problems too, kept not wanting to start, something about the security in the computer. And the torque converter lock up did not work, it would chatter and slip. Looks like next time it's going to be a Honda, or Toyota, or Hunday, or Saturn, or whatever.
Good Luck guys, sorry about your problems.
E.D. I.S.F.

alman08 · June 2006

you said, "I don't know why they have so many problems with the seals leaking, and gears whining, but they do, must be some slop in the parts somewhere. The whole aluminum rear end is junk, and I won't own one."

I have read somewhere on the net today that the new aluminum housing for the rear axle couldn't tolerate heat too well thus it would somehow change shape (expansion?) which cause the seals to leak. Terrible design in my opinion if that's the case. I'm going in on Thursday again to have them look at it one more time. Hopefully it's the seals again and nothing else. Just paid $500 last Friday for the seals work... if not, I will just have the fluid filled every 5k miles when I go in for an oil change until I find a good replacement SUV. :lemon:

I have already started shopping today. Still doing my research. Currently looking at the Mercury Mariner (oh yeah... another Ford product...) and used Mercedes ML500.
By the way, does anyone know if the Mariner uses an aluminum housing for the rear axle? If yes, it's a no go.

electricdesign · June 2006

This forum is for problems and solutions, unfortunately, the continuing problems with these axles and transmissions, does'nt leave much of a solution, other than taking it back to the dealer to get it fixed. If you are out of warranty, you are screwed. This company has been building cars for a hundred years, they know how to do it, but they are slipping badly, maybe due to the economic situation forcing them to use less quality parts and shabby labor practices. I don't think they make all the parts, but get the ring & pinion gears and other parts from other sources, and the other sources complete for selling for the lowest prices to Ford. Maybe an insider could enlighten us. Competition used to be a good thing, it kept the market and products strong, but now it seems to be backfiring for Ford. They can't be blind, they have to be able to see what is going on. Has the competition from the foriegn market beaten down Ford to where they can't complete in this mid sized SUV market? If nobody bought any more Fords, what would happen to Ford, to the market, to the USA? And what if that happens to other American companies like GM or Chrysler? I am sure hoping that they can get on the stick and start making quality products at competitive prices again. This junk of today is just not going to make it in todays market? Who wants a car that needs to be repaired often at great expense? Not anyone I know. You should be able to buy an Explorer and never have to worry about the rear axle. A rear axle should easily last well over 200,000, an only require to check the fluid level once in a great while, they should be basicly trouble free for the life of the vehicle. While a rear axle should be expected to last over 200K, maybe up to 300K or more, a transmission should be expected to last at least 150K, and a heavy duty one with a good reputation should last over well 200K with normal fluid and filter changes every 30k. Not all the Ford Explorers give all these problems, but far too many of them do. The obvious design flaws, like the timing chains and aluminum rear axles, make them doomed to unreliability in the long run.
Please do not assume that all aluminum parts are bad, some are very good, it all depends on the design. The Ford 4.6L V8 is an aluminum block that seems to be doing fairly well, and Chevrolet has their Straight 6 Aluminum engine that is doing well, and lots of these cars with the Front Wheel Drive Aluminum Engine and Aluminum transaxle are doing well. My daughter drove a 91 Saturn SC, small coup with an aluminum 1.9L and aluminum transaxle, and that thing ran forever, was still running perfect when it got totaled in 2004. The aluminum is not bad, it just needs good design and put together right, so don't write off another vehicle just because it has an aluminum axle or aluminum engine. Do your research and find out what kind of reputation it has and what it's weaknesses are. It is kind of hard to do that with the new models and new designs that come out. It takes time to see how well they do, and what the owners have to say about the cars, and how their service records look. That's why I buy used vehicles, and search for the tried and true designs. Well guys, Good Luck.
E.D. ISF

explorerx4 · June 2006

my '02 explorer has had the popular problems. funny thing looking back on it is, i didn't want to buy an '03 expedition, because it was a new design. i bought in august of '02.
my brother in law has an '03 same power train as i do, 4.6 v8 with towing package.
he is more than willing to push it to the limit.
coming back to ct from florida, he said he decided to follow a mercedes 500. he said he kept it floored to keep up until he had to fill up with gas. i believe him, i have been on a trip like that with him in an '85 tbird (5.0 btw). his explorer has no drivetrain problems.
the other day my oldest child(daughter, hs senior next september) asked me to save the explorer for her until she gets out of college. when i ask why?, she says she won't need a vehicle until graduates. i went to pick her up from a voluntary sports practice in my '91 mustang gt convertible today, she wasn't interested in driving! kids today. :confuse:
all i am saying is, don't rule it out.

mynewalias · June 2006

I have a 99, V8, AWD, 4-door that has about 80,000 miles. I just got new tires today to hopefully correct an existing road-noise issue that I thought was coming from the old tires. The noise sounds like your running with large off-road tires. The noise begins at about 25mph. The noise lessens when making a left-turn. It's really quite loud at interstate speeds. My thoughts are at this time that this might be a wheel-bearing or CV-joint problem. I have the feeling it will be expensive. Any thoughts?

electricdesign · July 2006

My thoughts are, what did the place that you bought the tires from have to say about it? That's the first place to check. Then take it to a dealer or good front end shop to have the problem diagnosed.
Good Luck,
E.D. In Sunny Florida

antiford · July 2006

Hello I am the not very pleased owner of a 1998 Explorer sport which has had a numerous of problems. My most recent problem that has me puzzled is a vibration that occurs at about 70 mph, this vibration is minor enough that a passenger might barely feel it, but is annoying to the driver of the vehicle since it can be especially felt in the steering wheel and gear shifter(Manual transmission). I have taken the truck to numerous shops around town and have received a different explanation every time. I have been told to replace the shocks (which i did). I have been told to have the drive shaft serviced (which i had the u joints replaced) . I have been told I had 3 bent rims (purchased new rims). One shop actually said there was nothing they could do about the vibration because its a problem with the design of the truck frame, I think they actually used the word flawed in reference to the design. After that I decided to just try my luck and change the tires switching from light truck tires to passenger car tires, and oddly enough the truck rode fine for about a month then the annoying vibration came back. So i'm wondering. What might be the source of my problem? If anyone might be able to help or has any info on this possible flaw in the frame it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
The unhappy Fixed Or Repaired Daily owner

electricdesign · July 2006

It sounds like the tires, since the vibration went away when you put new tires on. One of them might have went out of balance by throwing a weight off. It is possible for a perfectly balanced tire to instantly become unbalanced by a weight coming loose and flying off. Take it back to where you got the tires and have them check and rebalance the tires, let us know how it goes.
Good Luck.
E.D. ISF

kiawah · July 2006

My guess based on your symptoms, is that you have a worn suspension part somewhere. I had a similar problem with my Suburban, which front tires would go out of balance. Make a long story short, it had a bad lower ball joint. Truck would be aligned, tires all balanced and rotated. Within a period of time, the tires would go out of balance again. What was really happening, is that the worn ball joint would throw the front end out of alignment, the out of alignment would cause a scrubbing (wear) on the tires, that abnormal wear would throw the tires out of balance, the vibration would come back.

So I'd look beyond the tire balance, and see if you find worn suspension components. Could be ball joints, steering arm joints, bushings, etc. Anything that effects the three geometric angles of the front tire (caster, camber, toe-in).

dodgekbad · July 2006

I have a '98 Explorer, V6 SOHC, with 107k miles. Last week I noticed a really bad leak, that I just wrote off as the A/C letting out some water. Later however, I noticed there was no cold air coming out of the vents.

I took it to any old place to get a verdict on what was wrong, just hoping it was freon that needed to be replaced. The shop told me it was the compressor leaking; which I suppose makes sense considering what I said a moment ago.

Can you do a patch job on a leaking compressor? The $575 estimate I got seems unreal. Are they difficult to install yourself? I never got into maintaining this truck myself since I need it for work and figured it would be best to let a pro do it. But screwing up an A/C installation won't affect the way it runs right?

jeepcreeper · July 2006

I'm not an expert on auto air conditioners,so...How much did they charge you for the estimate. If not much,what do you have to lose by going somewhere else for a comparision? When you look into the engine compartment does it look like you could do the job yourself? I doubt you can do a patch job- the seals are probably leaking which means a loss of lubricating oil that flows thru the system along with the freon-if it's the compressor leaking. Could the leak be from one of the hoses that are part of the system?

electricdesign · July 2006

The $575 quote you were given is actually not too bad. You might be able to find a cheaper price, but not much cheaper. There is a lot more to Air Conditioning repair than most people think, and it can be VERY expensive. The older Fords of the early 90's often required a complete replacement of all parts under the hood when the compressor failed, because the old compressors failed on the inside, circulating sludge and metal particles into the entire system, called "Black Death" by many. It required a "Firewall Forward Replacement", which meant replacing the following components: compressor($225), condenser($120), hoses($160), orifice tube($5.00), accumulator($50), then flushing out the Evaporator (Flush Solvent $20), then Evacuate the system with a vaccuum pump, then charge the system with new refrigerant($25). With labor, this costs $1,000 to $1200, prices may be higher now.

In your case, I am assuming the compressor has no internal failure, and has not contaminated the system. You can not replace the compressor alone, the compressor warranty and good practice require that the orifice tube and the accumulator be replaced also. If you have not worked on air condition before, I must warn that there are dangers present involving moving parts and high pressures. If you are mechanically inclined, and seriously want to try to do the job yourself, I would first urge you to study and learn about how air conditioning works and how to repair it safely.
I would recommend that you check into the following web sites and learn all that you can about mobile air conditioning first:
http://www.ackits.com/
http://www.acsource.com/

For Parts:
http://www.lowesville.com/Air_Conditioning_Parts.htm

After you have studied and learned about mobile air conditioning from the above sites, and if you still want to do your own air conditioning repair work, you will need to acquire the tools and equipment that you will need. You will need basic mechanics hand tools for the general work of removing and replacing the parts. The specialized AC tools you may choose to buy or rent. First a good set of R134a AC gauges with hoses($100-$150). Second a good vacuum pump($200-$300). Third you may need spring lock tools($20) if your vehicle has spring lock connectors. Forth, a vent temperature thermometer($10).
When you are ready to start the project, have all the new parts and tools ready. Buy the compressor with NO oil in it, shipped DRY, so that you can add your own oil of the proper type. Have the proper AC oil, 9 ounces of "Double End Capped" PAG 100 oil. Have the old refrigerant recovered by a AC shop, they would probably do this for free, since they get to keep the refrigerant. It is against the law to intentionally discharge refrigerant into the air. Remove the Belt, Remove the compressor, Remove the orifice tube, and Remove the Accumulator. Since the system is now open, you have the opportunity to do an optional step, to flush the system(highly recommended), you could flush out the condenser, the evaporator and the hoses at this point if you would like. This would help to ensure a clean system and remove the old oil, which would help to ensure a long life for the new compressor. The cleanliness of the system is the most important factor for compressor life. Use new o-rings on all the connections. If you flushed out the system, you will now need to put in a full charge of oil, 9 ounces of "Double End Capped" PAG 100 oil. Put 4 ounces in the compressor, 2 ounces in the evaporator, 1 ounce in the condenser, and 2 ounces in the accummulator. Next install the compressor, orifice tube and the accumulator. Rotate the center hub of the compressor at least 10 times to clear oil from the valves. Then connect the gauges and vaccuum pump and pull a deep vaccuum(29" or more) on the system for an hour. Close the valves on the gauges and turn off the vaccuum pump, vacuum on the system should hold, watch it for at least 15 minutes to be sure the vaccuum doesn't creep up. If you loose vaccuum, look for a leak, check your connections, turn the compressor shaft to be sure the compressor shaft seal seals. Put the Vent Temperature Thermometer into the dash outlet vent of the vehicle. After evacuating and the vaccuum holds, ENGINE OFF, close both valves on gauges, connect refrigerant can to the gauges charging hose, purge the yellow charging hose of air, slowly open low side valve on gauges to slowly charge refrigerant into the vaccuum, holding can upside down, using the can tap valve to control the flow of refrigerant. After it takes all the refrigerant that it can, close valve on the can tap, set AC to max cool, high blower. Put the second can on the charging hose, START the ENGINE, then slowly open the can tap valve, using the can tap valve to control the flow of refrigerant in the vehicle. It may take up to 3 cans of refrigerant. Carefully watch the gauges as you slowly charge the system, pressures will rise. The exact pressures you need will vary according to the ambient temperatures at the time. Generally, you will want the low side pressure to read between 21 to 30lbs(25 is optimial in hot weather) and the high side pressure to read between 225 and 245lbs(230-235 is optimal in hot weather). Check the vent temps and feel the temps of the AC lines as you are charging. The temp at the accumulator should start to get cold as the charge approaches full, as the cold covers the accumulator and then the cold starts to move on the suction line towards compressor, it is almost full. Charge the last part in VERY SLOWLY, as it is VERY important NOT to OVERCHARGE the system. At this point the pressures should be reading good and you should just start to feel the COLD arrive at the suction port of the compressor. Adjust the charge slightly so that the pressures look good and the suction port is cold, DO NOT charge any more than that. If you charge too much, the system will become warmer and the pressures will be higher. Generally, the best cooling is obtained when there is just enough cold refrigerant to reach the suction port of the compressor and the pressure look good. If you are charging with the vehicle in the shade, the vent temp should be 50 degrees or colder once the system is stable and the vehicle cools down. You may now remove the gauges and equipment, as you should be done. Take a test drive with the vent thermometer in the dash vent, so that you can monitor the cooling. You should get between 45 to 50 degrees coming out of the vent, driving down the road.
If you can do all that, it will cost you about $325-$350 in parts, Plus the tools that you need, Plus your Labor. If it's worth it to you, and you feel capable, go ahead, but remember, Safety First. If you need any help, just ask.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

dodgekbad · July 2006

Ok, this is definitely more than I bargained for. And it was hotter than ever today. I made an impulse decision and scooped up a used compressor from a Junkyard (when will I learn . . .), open on 4th of July of all things, for 100 bucks. I live in NYC so it's all foreigners down there. I also found someone else, a Boneyard tech, to install it for $220. And now . . . I have cold air!

But I am starting to suspect that it wasn't my compressor or seals at all, but "the dryer" (who knew my truck has a "dryer?") The guy who installed it at the junkyard said that was probably leaking and not the compressor. Turns out he might be partly right; according to this article, the blanket around the dryer on late model Explorers causes the thing to rust and particles seep into the A/C system . . .

http://www.imcool.com/articles/aircondition/corroded_accumulator.htm

My dryer, sure enough is a rusty nail, and I did WD 40 and scrub off the little blanket there's left; I guess the rest deteriorated. But does that theory make sense in my case? Would gas seep out from clogging from the dryer?

The Junkyard tech actually had this sophisto machine -- he says it cost him 5 grand -- that cleaned my system and all.

That brings me to my next question is: do you think I should buy a new dryer and try to install that myself? Is at as EZ as unscrewing the 3 hoses attached to it? Or should I just ride this heat wave out with what cold air I have?

Happy 4th!

chuck1 · July 2006

"other than taking it back to the dealer to get it fixed. If you are out of warranty, you are screwed."

Very good post. I know some dealers are better than others. When I took my '02 in for the rear end problem, I was told, it wasn't that bad. And they were right. Others had it worse, but mine was still whinning between 55mph and 65 mph. They (Dealer) tries to find reasons NOT TO FIX IT under warranty. And as far as known problems with these models that include as you stated the rear-end and transmissions,I would like to include; the power window motors (rear), the piece of body work under the rear hatch (glass) that cracks, the very poor leather in the XLT models, if any of this stuff is broken EVEN AFTER WARRANTY AND THEY ARE KNOWN PROBLEMS, FORD SHOULD PAY TO FIX THEM!! PLAIN AND SIMPLE!! QUALITY IS JOB ONE!! Where? On the moon?

electricdesign · July 2006

My long post was intended to be a guide to you, as you were asking if you could fix it yourself, and you had it diagnosed as a leaking compressor. I am not there, so I can only go by what you say. You are now using the term "dryer", but you have what is call an accumulator, it is almost the same thing. The older cars had dryers in them, when they used the expansion valve type system. Nowadays, they use the orifice system with an accumulator, the accumulator has a dryer inside of it. The biggest difference between the accumulator and the dryer is the location in the refrigeration circuit. The dryer is located in the liquid line between the condenser and the expansion valve, it is a small tank with a sight glass and a dryer inside of it, which is a small bag of a chemical called a dissecant, which absorbs moisture like a sponge, therfore "drying" the moisture out of the refrigerant. The accumulator is almost the same thing, but has no sight glass and is located in the suction line on the outlet of the evaporator, between the evaporator and the compressor. It catches the cold vapor and some boiling refrigerant as it comes out of the evaporator. It also has the bag of a chemical called a dissecant, which absorbs moisture like a sponge, therfore "drying" the moisture out of the refrigerant. Sometimes the terms are used interchangably, because they do almost the same thing, an they both "Dry" the refrigerant.
Regarding the leak, a leak is a leak, is a leak, no matter where it is. A good tech uses a leak detector ot dye to find the point of leakage. very small one can be hard to find. But no matter where it is, it has to be fixed, not matter if it's a rusy accumulator, or leaky compressor, condenser, evaporator or whatever. A leaky evaporator is usually the hardest and most expensive to fix.
I guess for the money you spent, $320, you didn't do too bad, considering your position and the heat. So I guess it's cold enough now? And I assume that since you are asking about putting the accumulator on, he must not have put one on. Since it is a done deal for right now, probably best to leave it be, since it's a used compressor anyway. The time to put in the Accumulator and orifice tube is when the system is apart. Now that it is back together and running, you don't want to have to suck the regrigerant back out, take it apart and replace the parts and recharge. It would have been nice to do it when he did the compressor, but let it go for now, what kind of warranty did he give you? Get all you can out of this job and maybe it can get you through the summer. Next time to know a little more of what is involved and maybe can get it all done at one time.
Regarding the machine he was using, that is a nice machine that the shops use, makes working on the ac better and easier. It sucks out the refrigerant, flushes the system, evacuates the system, and charges the refrigerant back in, very nice. I didn't mention it because we were talking about you doing the work yourself, and you certainly are not going to go but one of those machines, and you can't rent one either.
Anyway good luck with the AC, I hope it stays nice and cool all summer for you.
E.D. ISF

tidester · July 2006

<aside>
BTW - the word is spelled desiccant. (Please don't think I'm being nitpicky - I show it only in case someone is interested in looking it up!)
</aside>

Anyway, thanks for an informative post!

tidester, host

dodgekbad · July 2006

Thanks for the informative and very fast post(s) Electric Design. You won't believe this, but I actually went back to the original mechanic to quiz him on his diagnosis (but not too much -- it was free) and it was the Condenser that he said was leaking; not the compressor. I guess I heard it wrong, and selective memory must have come into play because I had a problem last year with my home A/C unit and it was the compressor, and I didn't even know what a damn condenser was until now.

Maybe I can Ebay my old compressor. Although it's getting harder to sell anything on fleebay these days and it seems like good, cheap insurance. I watched the tech put it in and if need be I think I can put the compressor on myself. Anyway, I have cold air for now. I might as well ride this thing out.

curious_gears · July 2006

alrighty. we own a 1993 ford explorer XLT 4by4. WELL, the four wheel drive does not work. we tried 3 new push button modules with no avail. then we did some investigating. there IS power to the push botton module. there is NO power to the motor on the back of the transmission. the four wheel drive relay located in the rear normally hums when the four wheel drive is activated. now complete silence so we can tell its not operating. the ford dealership says that the push button always goes out. but a couple friends of ours always have problems with the motor on the back of the tranny.

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE give us some information on any ideas on what may be wrong or, if this has happened to you before, how it was fixed and what the problem was.

thanks
~james

curious_gears · July 2006

oh and i forgot to mention in the above post ^^ that we have 186,000 miles on it with only one major problem.

joe_88 · July 2006

if anyone can help, i would be very grateful. the problem: approx. 6 months after purchasing the explorer, i began to notice a squeaking noise coming from the belt/pulley area. to make a long story short, i've taken the vehicle to the same dealer on 4 separate occasions. each time i'm assured the problem has been resolved but this has not been the case. the dealer has done the following; adjusted the belt, replaced the belt, removed the "paint" from a pulley and finally replaced a pulley. i'm virtually at the end of my rope here. i should note that the suv runs fine, despite the squeaking noise. i'm simply baffled by the dealerships inability to make this repair. to make matters worse, although the suv was purchased in the us, i'm currently working in a latin american country that has a large ford presence; however, ford of usa and ford of latin america do not operate on the same wavelength and as a result i have to mail-in receipts to get reimbursed under the warranty. the warranty, however, recently ended in early 2006. as noted above, i'm highly frustrated with this problem and am looking for a solution. i've considered seeking out a ford engineer (if such a thing exists) in order to get some idea of how to fix the problem. btw, i've contacted ford usa and they (not surprisingly) have been of almost NO help.
suggestions/assistance would be greatly appreciated.

electricdesign · July 2006

Your problem may not be with the belt or pullies at all. The way to find out is to remove the belt, then start the engine (don't run the engine for more than 60 seconds, or it will overheat). See if the sound is still there or is gone. If still there, investigate the the belt and pullies further, they may need to replace the pullies, or pully bearings, or water pump, or AC compressor Bearing, or Power Steering Pump, one of those might be the problem. If the noise is gone when the belt is off, rev the engine up and down a little to be sure the sound is gone, then shut off the engine. The squeaking may be coming from the crankshaft seal. Test this by squirting some WD40 spray lubricant onto the seal by spraying behind the harmonic balancer (big pully on the front of the engine crankshaft). If is diffult to reach, you have to do it from under the vehicle, try to spray from the bottom and side, using the small this plastic tube that comes with the WD40. You might try taping two tubes together to make a longer tube. Most likely the noise will go away. If the noise goes away, the seal is dry and squeaking. You can squirt WD40 on it from time to time to keep it quiet, or else you would have to replace the front engine seal (timing cover seal). Put the belt back on until you decide what you want to do.
My 2000 Ford XLT V8 has been doing the same thing for almost a year now, and I opted to squirt WD40 once in a while. Sometimes it squeaks a little, but goes away, and it seems to cause no ptoblem so far, more of a nuisance than anything. I've bought the timing cover seal, in case I need to replace it.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

electricdesign · July 2006

I wasn't fully awake when I typed the above post. It should have read, if you take the belt off and the sound is GONE, then investigate the belt and pullies. If the sound REMAINS after you remove the belt, then with engine off, try spraying the WD40 on the crankshaft seal.
E.D. ISF

stever · July 2006

I was researching some "stop leak" stuff for auto a/c's a couple of weeks ago - any opinion as to how they work in the real world?

Steve, Host

electricdesign · July 2006

I am of the old school on that subject, I don't really believe in putting any gunk or junk into a system. There are several kinds, and they work in several ways. The old stuff would seal the leak with gunk, but it would clog the expansion valve or orifice tube or condenser or compressor. Some of the new stuff works better, it clogs the leak by solidifying only when it comes in contact with moisture or air, so technically it is not suppose to clog the system, only at the point of leakage where the refrigerant and oil meets air. But, myself, I believe it will all hit air eventually anyway, and once put in, you can never clean that stuff out of the system, it hides in every crack and crevice in the compressor. What ever junk, gunk or debris (did I spell that right) that circulates in the system, will eventually be caught on the inlet screen of the orifice tube, and that is what usually clogs up or restricts first. The stop leak stuff may be good as a last resort for very small leaks, but the best fix is always to find and repair the leak properly. In other words, don't use it unless your Really need to use it. And if you do, realize it is only a temporary repair.
E.D. ISF

explorerhlp · July 2006

it is a 1999 ford explorer eddie bauer v6 a couple of days ago the gas gauge said empty so i filled the tank it only took 6 gallons and still pegged at empty, after that it started dieing out every time i stop . the check engine light is not on.i changed the fuel filter which was full of black soot like liquid but it still dies every time i stop, if i stop really slow it sometimes stays on . even if i put it in nuetral with my foot on the gas it dies . Please help.

wend_one · July 2006

I have a 1994 Ford Explorer. It keeps blowing the elbows off the vacuum lines attached to the intake manifold. It also will occasionally smell like it is leaking brake fluid, but, I can't find any change in the fluid height in the fluid reservoir. It has been into the garage twice, once for a tune up and once because the problem occurred again after the tune up. The first time it happened a year ago and one line blew off, the second time it was six months ago and two lines blew off, and the last time, yesterday, three lines blew off. I originally replaced the elbows because they felt spongy and I thought it was solely due to the material degrading from oil in the lines. The vehicle has about 130,000 miles, could this be a problem with the egr valve or the canister associated with the emissions system? The garage mechanic said it is a normal circumstance and just to zip tie the lines back on the nipples they attach too. Does anyone know what the real problem is and what really needs to be fixed?

powerplay · July 2006

I own a 94 ford explorer limited. 4.0 v6, auto. The car has been really good until about 2 weeks ago when it gave me problems starting. The funny thing is that it only gave me problems starting when i let it sit for more than five hours. I would just crank the gas and that seemed to work. About a week ago in the morning it just stopped starting. The motor turns but not start. I checked the fuel pressure, i'm getting 40psi, the truck is not flooded, i changed the ignition switch, checked the ignition control module, sprak plugs are working and giving good spark, engine coil is good, and ecm is responding. everything seem fine. The injectors are not distributing gas to the engine, and they're not going. It seems as though i might have a short wire, or my ecm relay needs to be changed. Do you have suggestions as to what i should try next.

electricdesign · July 2006

Two important things I saw in your post. Obviously the fuel system is all or part of the problem.
First - "i filled the tank it only took 6 gallons and still pegged at empty". It could be a bad fuel sender, or a leaky float that sank. I had the leaky float happen on one of my Explorers. I keep a spare float on the shelf.
Second - "the fuel filter which was full of black soot like liquid". Where did that come from? Be sure to completely clean the fuel system!
Because of the two above complaints, it would seem to indicate that the fuel tank needs to be removed, the fuel sender, pump and filter need to be checked, the tank needs to be cleaned out, to be sure it is clean. Check all WIRING on the sending unit and SENDING UNIT CIRCUIT, if the sender or float is bad, put on new fuel level sender or float. Before installing the fuel tank, turn on the ignition and slowly manually move the sender float up and down to be sure the fuel gauge moves up and down. You need to determine where the black stuff you found in the fuel filter came from. Was it something in the fuel tank? Or did it come out of the fuel pump because of a problem with the pump? You need to resolve that issue before putting it all back together. Remove the fuel filter and check for any dirt or contamination. If any dirt is found, blow out and clean the fuel lines. The engine dying is most likely coming from this fuel system problem. Whenever the fuel filter is removed, the fuel that spills out should be very clean on the side towards the engine, and only slightly dirty on the side towards the gas tank. There usually is no problem with the fuel system, if you change the fuel filter with a new one every 30,000 miles.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

electricdesign · July 2006

Same thing happened to my 91 and 93 Explorers. I tied the boots on tight with some small wire and never had anymore problem. I think it's a small backfire in the engine due to some design glitch in the engine or ignition. Just make sure it's tuned up propery and has good spark plug wires.
Good Luck
E.D. ISF

electricdesign · July 2006

If you are sure that the ignition is functioning properly, it may indeed be the fuel injectors not firing. You can check that by buying a "NOID LIGHT" at the autoparts house. They make different ones for different makes, so be sure to get the right one. You can get by using only one Noid Light by putting it on one injector at a time. Unplug one connector from it's injector and plug the Noid Light into the connector. When you crank the engine, it should light every time the injector is suppose to fire. If no light, that means no injector pulse signal is present. Try it on the other injectors to see if they work or not. If you do this, and the Noid light doesn't light, check all the wiring connections. More than that would be too much to post here. You would have to get a good repair manual or an Alldata Subscription, or take it to a shop for repairs.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

wend_one · July 2006

Thanks for the info, I'll let you know if anyone else comes up with anything else.

Wendell

mynewalias · July 2006

E.D.,

The tires were purchased and mounted at Wally World, which does not have the type of diagnostic capability that was required for this situation.

I ended up bringing it in for a service appointment at the new car dealership from where it was originally purchased. The diagnosis and solution was that the right-front hub was shot. The part was about $250.00 and the labor about the same for a grand total of about $525.00. Needless to say, it drives perfectly now.

mynewalias · July 2006

I should also add that the ABS indicator light on the dash has been lit for several months. The dealership remarked upon this during my service visit and said that they thought the problem was with the "rear speed sensor", which had a parts cost of around $50.00 with labor about the same. I wonder if anyone here has an experience with ABS issues such as this?

electricdesign · July 2006

Glad you got it fixed ok!

Can't say much about the speed sensor, it could be the sensor itself, or the wiring or the Antilock module, it has to be diagnosed by someone with the knowhow. If it's just the rear sensor, it is easy to replace and should not be much time or money. I'd first check the wiring, just to be sure the wiring didn't get pulled loose or damaged. It is just a matter of unplugging the wire connector, unscrewing the old one, screwing in the new one, plugging the wire connect back together, securing the wire so it doesn't get pulled loose, and testing it to be sure it is working properly.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

seres4 · July 2006

This is good stuff. From what I've been reading on the site, sounds like more problems than solutions. I'm in the same boat with tranny troubles. At 14 months, mine started slipping, grinding and simply not engaging from a stop- but no warning lights. The occurences were so varied I couldn't begin to recreate an instance to demonstrate to my dealer. I was told that without a warning light there was absolutely nothing they could do - even after a test drive. So, this kept on and as I would go back to the dealer I always got the same answer. Then at 40 months (4 after the warranty expired) and about 50K miles I finally got a warning light and the wonderful news from my dealer that the whole tranny needed to be replaced - and only for $6500. All attempts throughout the entire Ford Customer Service chain to have the work done at Ford's expense met the same answer - "No warranty - no service". They've never acknowledged my documented service history as if a transmission should be replaced every 50K miles. Now I'm off to court to have them pay for the repairs I had done at an independent repair site. The same work for less than half the price. Go figure.

bioman · July 2006

I had that very same problem with my 99 Explorer about one year ago. The ABS light came on and I was able to diagnose that the rear ABS sensor was shot. I used a VOM and the information that I found on my Ford Workshop Information CD. I subsequently found out that this is a fairly common problem with Explorer ABS systems. The repair took bout 25 minutes.

electricdesign · July 2006

I don't think I'd call this "Good Stuff", all these serious problems and all. Myself, I simply can't afford to have problems like that, they would break me to the bone, and I'd have to be walking, and I live in one city, and have to drive across the bay and work in another city! I sincerely believe that NO ONE should ever have to go through anything like that. Vehicles should Definitely be built to be relatively trouble free for over 100,000 miles, and if a good reputable one, expect it to go OVER 200,000 trouble free miles! That is what I expect of my vehicles, almost. Some minor things will go wrong, but no major stuff, It's ok to go through a couple of more batteries over 12 years time, a radiator, a starter, a couple of window lift motors, an alternator, a water pump or fan, an AC compressor, and then of course all your wear items. But major Engine or Transmission work is totally unacceptable in a vehicle that is fairly new (I consider 100,000 miles to be fairly new to me). I feel very sorry for you guys having these rediculous problems. Ford is definitely not what it used to be. I know you guys like your new cars and your new car warranties, but what do you do when the warrenty runs out? You are out of luck, that's what. What is means is that you really need to buy an extended warranty for your vehicle before it's too late. With a vehicle like a Ford Explorer, you'd be crazy not to have an extended warranty. Unless you do like I do, and settle for a GOOD USED one, which are not easy to find. I grew up in a neighborhood where everybody fixed their cars. I spent many nights in fascination holding a work light for my neighbors as they fixed their cars, rebuilt engines, trannys, axles whatever. My first job working at McDonalds when the hamburgers, fries and coke all cost 15 cents each, a meal cost 47 cents, I made 36 dollars my first week and I took that money and bought me a new two barrel carburetor for my old 55 Pontiac, what a joy that was. Anyway, I worked on cars and got used to it, and never minded getting my hands dirty. Of course it's warm down here, so we didn't freeze to death when working on the cars in the winter, but the mosquitos would carry us off on those hot summer nights. But I had to give a lot of that up in my old age now, can't handle pulling trannies and engines now, and I know a lot of you would rather not, so I found that doing extensive research has saved me a whole lot of trouble, by buying the RIGHT vehicle to start with. Edmunds has helped me a lot with the research over the years. A good way to find out about how good a car is, is to talk to the people who have owned them for several years, talk to the transmssion parts house guys, talk to the mechanics. How many of you guys would have bought something else, instead of what you bought, if you could go back in time and do it over again? If you knew THEN what you know NOW, would you have bought that Explorer? Well, the die is cast, and we can't go back, but we sure can learn from our mistakes, I know I did! I researched a lot, and that is why I bought a used 2000 Explorer XLT in 2005, with a 5.0L V8 engine and the 4R70W transmission, and a straight cast iron rear axle (3.55 ratio, non LS). I would have preferred a 3.73 ratio LS rear axle, like my wifes 1997 XLT V8, but I got a really good deal on this vehicle, in March 2005 I paid $8500 plus taxes, they were selling everywhere down here then for $9500 to 10,000, it is fully loaded, leather, keyless, everything, and LOOKED and DROVE like NEW. It had brand new Ford brakes front and rear. And over a year later, it still drives like new, everything works perfect, put on a set of new Goodyear Wrangler tires. I maintain my vehicles to perfection, and I am confident it will give me fairly trouble free performance well over 200,000 miles. I will unload it to some lucky kid it when it gets 12 years old and about 200K on it. What I knew when I was shopping for this vehicle in 2005 was that I would NOT get a V6 Engine, and I would not get the floating rear suspension with the aluminum rear axle. What that meant was I would be shopping for an Explorer no newer than a 2001, because they changed to the full floating rear suspension and aluminum rear axle in 2002, I would be shopping for a V8 Engine because the engine and the transmission behind it are known to be very reliable, I would be shopping for a 2 wheel drive, because it is more trouble free and I didn't need 4WD anyway, and miles didn't scare me if it was in good shape, no warranty needed.
Good Luck Fellas,
E.D. ISF

theturc · July 2006

Ive been writing in on my 2004 Explorer with rear end problems and transmission problems. I am now at 29K miles and the transmission is up to the same old problems.
Nice to hear that Im not the only one in the same boat with the transmission problems. I was just back to the Ford Dealership again (8th time) because the transmission slipped out of gear and then back in again. There is nothing they can, or will, do because they cant duplicate the problem. As stated by another writer an Extended warranty should be the obvious when purchasing one of these vehicles. I was lucky enough to purchase a 100K extended warranty when this vehicle was new.
I thought for a while that the easiest thing to do would be is to sell this piece of **** but then I would be saddled with a new vehicle and another new car loan. So, Ive decided to drive this Explorer until the extended warranty runs out and make Ford continue to fix it (the extended warranty is through Ford). By the end of the warranty it should cost them alot of money (two new ring and pinions and one new transmission already). I also live in Arizona which has great Lemon Laws, but since they wont say there is a problem, I cant get the Lemon Laws to work in my favor. There has to be 3 documented repairs for the same problem. Maybe I can get lucky and have the rear end go out again.
Also, I wonder if a class action suit against Ford would make them wake up?? Any thoughts?

cuznvern · July 2006

I'm new to this forum and what I have read , there seems to be some knowledgable people here, so here it goes. I have a 91 explorer v-6 4.0 . Me and my mechanic buddy put a used engine from a 95 ranger about 4 years ago into it with no problems till now. Yesterday I was driving and it just quit on me. Could not start it back up. After an hour it started up but died about a mile down the road. This morning it started but it died about 15 minutes later. We have plenty of fuel pressure. My buddy thinks that once it gets hot Im losing spark for some reason. He's thinking it could be some relay or sensor going bad. I changed the fuel filter last year and the old one wasn't really that bad. Any suggestions?

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