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http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?crn=84&rn=605&action=show_detail
1. Oct 15, 2005 - $810 to replace the solinoid, because the OD light was flashing & the car was jerking into gear.
2. March 13, 2006 - $1,874 to rebuild my transmission, because the OD light was on permanently and car would not go into 3rd gear...sounds like #1 (see above).
3. June 6, 2006 - the dealer wanted over $2,300 for brakes!!! Since I did not have the money, I suggested he do the "most" he could for the "minimum" amount of money and walked out paying $653 for rotors! I had never had squeaks because I had just had my brakes done about 18 months prior. The ABS light still comes on.
In addition I had to PAY for a rental car each time, amounting over $176!!!
Since I purchased my Explorer used in Sept ‘04, I will not have it paid off until Sept ‘08...what else can I expect to "shell out" in repair cost, while trying to pay it off? OR, should I trade it in now for a newer car?
Now for the BRAKES, $2,300 for brakes, that's just plain crazy!!! NUTS!!! I buy the best both front and rear brake pads, CARBON METALLIC (better than the originals) for just over $100 delivered to me. I get them on the internet from brakewarehouse.com. I never have to replace the rotors, because these brake pads make the rotors last a long time. I would never pay over $50 to $60 for a rotor. The brakes are wear items and these Carbon Metallic Pads will last 60,000 to 70,000 miles. They last me 60,000 miles and I drive VERY hard in stop and go driving, I frequently go well over 100mph if I get the room, and I slam on the brakes hard when I need to, I never have any brake problems, or tranny problems or engine problems with my V8 Explorers. I would highly suggest that you buy the parts yourself, that way you know you are getting good parts. If you can't put the parts on yourself, take it somewhere where they will put the parts on for you. But the brake parts are VERY EASY to put on. Just remember Safety First. If you can safely jack up the vehicle, put it on strong sturdy stands, and have all 4 wheels off, you've got half the work done, but I would suggest doing one wheel at a time.
The ABS might be a different story, depending on what is wrong with them. That will take accurate diagnosis by a trained professional, you might be able to handle it if you are mechanically inclined and get the proper repair info from alldatadiy.com or from a Ford Workshop DVD.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Good Luck
E.D. ISF
rockyp - It doesn't sound like you did any checking on your transmission. If you have a problem, you should at least have checked the transmission fluid level. If you have one of the transmissions that you can't check the fluid level on, it's not your fault, it's Fords. Thats one of the dumbest things they ever did, to not put a dip stick and filler tube on a automatic transmission. Myself, I could not own a vehicle that had an automatic transmission with no filler tube and dipstick. It sounds like your fluid could have been low. This can happen sometimes, the front seal may seep, the rear seal can seep, the pan gasket can leak it it gets bumped, or the transmission oil cooler lines could leak, they are up in front underneath, and go up in front of the radiator to the oil cooler coil. A leak can happen slowly over time or very suddenly.
Side Note: Most of you people have the 6 cylinder engines, and the automatic transmission that goes with it is much weaker and more troublesome than the 4R70W automatic transmission that goes behind the V8 engine. Check to see exactly what transmisison you have, and if it's not the 4R70W, that is probably why you have trouble with it. The 4R70W is one of the most reliable automatic transmissions Ford makes.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
So far, I have been pretty happy with these tires. They are much quieter than the Wranglers and seem to have a lot better grip. I can make some moves on the new tires that the old tires would have complained about (not just due to wear). The Regattas are not off-road or even comparable to the Wranglers, they are more like passenger tires and should suit my applications just fine.
Removal and Installation:
Raise and support vehicle.
NOTE: Clean off dirt and foreign material that may have collected around the rear anti-lock brake sensor before removal.
The rear anti-lock brake sensor is located on top of the rear differential.
Disconnect the rear anti-lock brake sensor electrical connector.
Remove the bolt.
Remove the rear anti-lock brake sensor.
NOTE: Thoroughly clean the mounting surface.
NOTE: Inspect the anti-lock brake sensor O-ring for damage; lightly lubricate the O-ring with axle lubricant.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Thanks,
Chuck
-MM
Any particular Air Conditioning system in any particular state will operate slightly differently under different conditions of Ambient Heat, and Heat Load. You did not give any specifics regarding the conditions that you were operating the system at before and after the repair. To create an equal analysis, the test conditions must be the same before and after the work is done, so that we are not comparing apples to oranges. You state that before, it was not cooling as well as it used to. You state that now it is cooling well, but the clutch cycles often. The comparison has to be made under the same conditions, approximately same hot weather, in the hot sun, and very important that you set the AC system to MAX COOL with the FAN on HIGH BLOWER each time you test. If you had the AC at a lower fan speed, it will place a lower heat load on the system, and the compressor will cycle more often, which is normal. Understand that the system does not operate under the same heat load all the time. Once the inside of the car cools down and the compressor can easily cool the car, the pressures in the system drop and the compressor will drop out sooner, and cycle more often. Lower temperatures = Lower Pressures = Compressor cycles out when pressure drops. The compressor cycles out when the pressure drops because it is operated by a low side pressure switch. When the evaporator pressure gets down to 21 to 20 lbs, the pressure switch shuts the compressor off, until the evaporator pressure rises back up to about 40 lbs, then it cuts the copressor back on. So TWO things cause the compressor to cycle off, Normal operation when the cooling is good enough for the pressure to drop to 21 lbs, or if the refrigerant charge is low and the pressure drops to 21 lbs. If cooling is not quite perfect and the compressor cycles on and off a lot, it might be that there could be a small restriction in the refrigeration circuit, usually at the orifice tube screen, which could cause evaporator pressure to drop and cut off the compressor. The mechanic can see this on his guages, by seeing that the low side pressure drops rapidly and quickly. If he charged it up, and watched the gauges, he probably desided it was working ok. I think in your case the AC is operating normally or near normally. Be sure to leave the FAN on HIGH Blower and the AC on MAX COOL (Recirculate), and see if the compressor still seems to cycle too often. If it is cooling well under all conditions, especially very hot weather, then the system is ok, even if it does cycle fairly often, it just means the compressor is doing it's job easily, and can rest more often. Let us know how does.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
I have a 99 Ford Explorer Sport, 2wd, auto transmission. Put new tires on about a year ago and started having trouble (shimmy/shake from 62-68 mph, apprx) in April/May so I brought it in for wheel balancing. And again. And again. Still got the wicked shake, rattle and roll.
So, long story short, I brought it in to Goodyear (Goodyear tires) instead of the place that had been doing the balancing. Husband thought maybe a belt went in one or more tires. So yes, the back tires have to be replaced (they pro-rated the price, however). Also, Goodyear said that the front ball joints needed replacing (yah, after 145,000 miles, we agreed).
My problem came when I picked it up. I had a wicked bad shimmy, shake, shudder when I started to drive it away (in the front end). I immediately stopped the car in the middle of their parking lot and went back in. One service guy was at the desk and he said it was a common problem with Ford Explorers whenever they had to be lifted by control arm (to replace ball joints) and it had something to do with the bushing having to "reseat" and it would go away in 10-15 miles of driving. He apologized for not saying something to me.
Neither my husband or I had ever heard of it. Checked online, nothing popped up. I then called Ford and they suggested that I call my local dealership. I spoke with service rep there and she said she had never, ever heard of it either.
Goodyear claims it will all smooth out in 10-15 miles. I've now gone approx. 20 and yah, it is a tad smoother but I am still pretty suspicious. Every time I turn the wheels, the tires shudder. Has anyone else had this issue? Is Goodyear dreaming? Is my Ford dealer?
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Thanks MM
Thanks
Overall this has been a great vehicle!
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
thanks for the advice. I'll try and do the wd40 fix first. It's just amazing that i purchased this vehicle new and i'm running into these little problems (not to mention that i'm on my fourth repair from the dealership). the car isn't even at 15k yet. needless to say, i've become soured by this ford experience.
NO one except for the Goodyear service place has had this issue, apparently. And THEY think it is perfectly normal. Neither Ford corporate, my local Ford dealer or anyone on the Ford service forum sites have confirmed that this is a true scenario.
I am concerned, even though the shudder has gone away. I want to be sure that no damage has been done to either my tires, my ball joints, my bushings or ANYTHING else in my front end! How can I have peace of mind about this? Can you, will you help me?
At the very least, I want a different Goodyear shop to inspect my Explorer and make sure that has been no damage or should be no repercussions.
Will keep you posted and thanks for the support!
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
I have been doing the tranny fluid change and new filter every 30 K miles, the last one about 8K ago, so I don't want to redo it again unless I have no choice, since it is not cheap. I have about 1 mo left on my Premium care extended warranty. I'll think I take it to the dealer. Problem is, without something "broken" I anticipate a response like "that's tyipcal or nothing out of spec". But I know for a fact that something has changed in the last few K miles. Any clue as to what I might direct the dealer to look for or at? Thanks!
-MM
To be more specific on my question, is there a known systemic problem with the rear axle and/or differential on some 2003 Explorers? If the problem occurs is it serviceable or does it typically reoccur? The guys at CarMax said this happens all the time and that it is 100% correctable. However, since they are not exactly impartial, I wanted to check with the knowledgeable users of Edmunds.