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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • cuznverncuznvern Member Posts: 4
    I had a similar problem. My leak was on the elbow of the fuel regulator(at least that is what I was told it was.)The ford dealer Iwent to said I had to buy the whole harness which was the regulator and the fuel line for $350. I found a junk yard here in cincinnati that sold me the regulator for $10. After some "rigging" it worked out fine. I would try to find a salvage yard that will work with you. Of course you know its a crapshoot, but I got lucky
  • trekker007trekker007 Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem with my 1996 Ford Explorer. My mechanic thought it may be a problem with this idle control sensor (about $65) which is connected by two screws in the engine compartment. It was replaced and did not solve the problem. He then replaced a speed sensor (about $34)in the transmission and it seemed to not die by running but it still dies when shifting from park to reverse or drive. It may be another problem also. I would appreciate any advice if you figure out what is going on with your car.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    When the engine dies, test it with this to see if you lost spark.

    http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?crn=84&rn=605&action=show_detail
  • sickofpayingsickofpaying Member Posts: 2
    I purchased a used 2002 Ford Explorer in Sept ‘04. During the past 9 months, it has been in the shop three times:

    1. Oct 15, 2005 - $810 to replace the solinoid, because the OD light was flashing & the car was jerking into gear.
    2. March 13, 2006 - $1,874 to rebuild my transmission, because the OD light was on permanently and car would not go into 3rd gear...sounds like #1 (see above).
    3. June 6, 2006 - the dealer wanted over $2,300 for brakes!!! Since I did not have the money, I suggested he do the "most" he could for the "minimum" amount of money and walked out paying $653 for rotors! I had never had squeaks because I had just had my brakes done about 18 months prior. The ABS light still comes on.

    In addition I had to PAY for a rental car each time, amounting over $176!!!

    Since I purchased my Explorer used in Sept ‘04, I will not have it paid off until Sept ‘08...what else can I expect to "shell out" in repair cost, while trying to pay it off? OR, should I trade it in now for a newer car?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Gosh, This is enough to make a grown man cry! See my post #5143, if you havn't already. You didn't say what engine and drive you have. You have a 2002 Explorer, probably a 6 clyinder, and that is probably why the problem with the transmisson. The 4R70W transmission behind the V8 rarely gives any problems. I have TWO of them, one is a 1997 with 146,000 miles and one is a 2000 with 124,000 miles, and NO PROBLEM with either one yet. I'm not trying to rub it in, just trying to point out the importance of buying the RIGHT vehicle.
    Now for the BRAKES, $2,300 for brakes, that's just plain crazy!!! NUTS!!! I buy the best both front and rear brake pads, CARBON METALLIC (better than the originals) for just over $100 delivered to me. I get them on the internet from brakewarehouse.com. I never have to replace the rotors, because these brake pads make the rotors last a long time. I would never pay over $50 to $60 for a rotor. The brakes are wear items and these Carbon Metallic Pads will last 60,000 to 70,000 miles. They last me 60,000 miles and I drive VERY hard in stop and go driving, I frequently go well over 100mph if I get the room, and I slam on the brakes hard when I need to, I never have any brake problems, or tranny problems or engine problems with my V8 Explorers. I would highly suggest that you buy the parts yourself, that way you know you are getting good parts. If you can't put the parts on yourself, take it somewhere where they will put the parts on for you. But the brake parts are VERY EASY to put on. Just remember Safety First. If you can safely jack up the vehicle, put it on strong sturdy stands, and have all 4 wheels off, you've got half the work done, but I would suggest doing one wheel at a time.
    The ABS might be a different story, depending on what is wrong with them. That will take accurate diagnosis by a trained professional, you might be able to handle it if you are mechanically inclined and get the proper repair info from alldatadiy.com or from a Ford Workshop DVD.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • sickofpayingsickofpaying Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the response. The $2,300 for the brake could very well be related to me being "automobile-challenged"! Yes, they "saw me coming"! As far as the transmission, yes it is a 6 cylinder, but I am not a fast driver (rarely over 75 mph) nor do I brake-hard. I've had Fords all my life...sarted with an Escort, then Probe, Mustang, 95 Explorer and now my 2002 Explorer...they all seemed to have had transmissin problems right around 80k miles...then everyone screams - get a Toyota or Honda...hmmm. Thanks again!
  • lilmamalilmama Member Posts: 1
    Hi i'm new to this site and i need help with my car, see my problem is that when i put my truck in gear (reverse or drive) it dies out. i went to a ford dealer to have them diagnos it and they said it was a transmission problem, but for them to look exactly what the problem is, they have to open the transmission up but they need me to authorize it, so if the part that needs replacing is covered under my extended warranty, then all i pay is the 100 dollar deductible, but if not i'm liable to pay $600!!! just for them to look at it. so i ended up taking the truck back home, while i die out everytime i come to a stop, i ended up paying 100 dollars diagnostic fee, but i didn't feel like gambling 500 dollars just for them to look at the problem! i need help real bad please if anybody out there knows what my trucks problems is. pls respond to this. I went to Autozone and explained whats wrong, and they said its the I.A.C (Idle Air Control?) so i bought it and i replaced it myself and then tested it and its still the same. so what else could be wrong with my truck. ???? when i'm running more than 25 mph its fine i even drive it on the freeway and it doesn't die out, but only when i come to a stop and slow down thats when it dies out. help!!!
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Your problem is the transmission torque converter lock up is stuck in the "Locked ON" position. It could be just the electrical controls, it could be the TC Solenoid, or it could be the torque converter lock up is physically stuck. It must be properly diagnosed, not just "take it and and look for what is wrong with it". They can tell exactly what is wrong with it before they take it out using electrical testers, hydraulic testers and/or air pressure. The electrical controls and the soleniod can be fixed with the tranny in the car. Only if the Torque Converter itself is bad does the tranny need to come out.
    Good Luck
    E.D. ISF
  • rockyprockyp Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2003 Sportrac that just turend 100K. I have zero porblemns with it until last night. I drove about 40 miles and then turned it off. when I restarted it the RPMs were jumping up and down and when I pressed onthe gas it would barely move forward. I made it up the road about a mile with no power and pulled into a parking lot. I decided that I need it towed so I called and as usual it was going to take an hour. After waiting for a while I started it back up and it drove like normal. I drove it straight to the dealership near my house and they have it today to run the diagnostics on it. Any thoughts of what could have happened? Trans? Trash in line? computer? Thanks
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    All of your Please post the full information on your vehicle, Exactly what engine, exactly what transmission, If you don't know your transmission type is, check your owners manual or ask your dealer and write this basic information on the front of your owners manual. This would help a lot!

    rockyp - It doesn't sound like you did any checking on your transmission. If you have a problem, you should at least have checked the transmission fluid level. If you have one of the transmissions that you can't check the fluid level on, it's not your fault, it's Fords. Thats one of the dumbest things they ever did, to not put a dip stick and filler tube on a automatic transmission. Myself, I could not own a vehicle that had an automatic transmission with no filler tube and dipstick. It sounds like your fluid could have been low. This can happen sometimes, the front seal may seep, the rear seal can seep, the pan gasket can leak it it gets bumped, or the transmission oil cooler lines could leak, they are up in front underneath, and go up in front of the radiator to the oil cooler coil. A leak can happen slowly over time or very suddenly.

    Side Note: Most of you people have the 6 cylinder engines, and the automatic transmission that goes with it is much weaker and more troublesome than the 4R70W automatic transmission that goes behind the V8 engine. Check to see exactly what transmisison you have, and if it's not the 4R70W, that is probably why you have trouble with it. The 4R70W is one of the most reliable automatic transmissions Ford makes.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • tmiracletmiracle Member Posts: 1
    Hi.. I was wondering if fixed you door? I have a 98 explorer & the driver side door handle won't open, manual lock won't work and the handle on the inside won't work. Do you know what needs replaced? or how to do it? thanks
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You have the right handle, you need a miracle! Seriously, that can't be diagnosed over the internet, it obviously has something or some linkage broken or come loose inside the door. You need to take it to a repair shop or body shop to have it looked at.
  • mynewaliasmynewalias Member Posts: 7
    Who can describe physically where the read speed sensor is located? Somewhere near the differential?
  • mynewaliasmynewalias Member Posts: 7
    I'll echo my other post, where is the rear speed sensor located at?
  • mynewaliasmynewalias Member Posts: 7
    And some note on the tires. The new set is set number-3. The first where the original Firestones, which were recalled and replaced by Goodyear Wranglers at about 30,000 miles as I recall. Finally, near 80,000 miles, I thought it was time for some new ones. After some research and analysis, I went with the original size in Goodyear Regatta 2's.

    So far, I have been pretty happy with these tires. They are much quieter than the Wranglers and seem to have a lot better grip. I can make some moves on the new tires that the old tires would have complained about (not just due to wear). The Regattas are not off-road or even comparable to the Wranglers, they are more like passenger tires and should suit my applications just fine.
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    On the 97-2001 Explorers the ABS rear sensor is attached to the TOP of the differential housing. There are one or two bolts that hold it to the housing. Of course you also have a electrical connection attached to the sensor. I don't know where the sensor is located on model years before 97 or 2002 to the present. Could be the sensor is in the same location. Good luck. It is a real easy fix if you have to change it.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Rear Anti-Lock Sensor
    Removal and Installation:

    Raise and support vehicle.
    NOTE: Clean off dirt and foreign material that may have collected around the rear anti-lock brake sensor before removal.

    The rear anti-lock brake sensor is located on top of the rear differential.
    Disconnect the rear anti-lock brake sensor electrical connector.
    Remove the bolt.
    Remove the rear anti-lock brake sensor.

    NOTE: Thoroughly clean the mounting surface.

    NOTE: Inspect the anti-lock brake sensor O-ring for damage; lightly lubricate the O-ring with axle lubricant.

    To install, reverse the removal procedure.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Those Goodyear Raggatta 2's sound good. I will look into them on tirerack.com. How are they pricewise, compared to the Wranglers, and how do they stack up against some of the other midrange tires like Yokohama Geolanders, or Dayton Timberlines in performance and price? Some others who have experience in other tires please chime in.
  • chuckgibsonchuckgibson Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1995 Explorer that has a starting problem. For some reason I am getting no spark.... SOMETIME. I have checked the coil and it seams to be fine. I unhooked one of the battery cables for about fifteen minutes and then reconnected it and the truck started right up. I tried to start the truck the next morning and...no spark. I moved wires around and jacked with it in general for about an hour and it started right up. I killed it and tried to restart it and you guessed it...no spark! What am I dealing with? Could it be the computer?
    Thanks,
    Chuck
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    I wonder how a class action suit begins... well, count me in if there is one.
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    In June of 2005 I replaced the Wranglers, that Ford put on my 99 Explorer XLT when they swaped out my Firestones, with Michelin Cross Terrain 235 75R 15's. Although the Wranglers were on the truck for 59K, I did not realize how awful their ride and handling were until I started driving on the Cross Terrain's. I purchased the Michelins at Costco. Got a very fair price that included everything plus a 6 year road hazard warranty. They even filled the tires with nitrogen gas instead of compressed air. When they mounted the tires they used a torque wrench to set the lug nuts. That really impressed me. Been back to Costco once to have the tires rotated, re-balanced and pressure adjusted. All this part of the purchase warranty. I know that tires and service are a very subjective things to talk about. But I am very impressed with the Michelins and the service at Costco.
  • kakokako Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 Explorer started to blow hot air through some vents and cold air through others. My mechanic says this is a protection mechanism when the AC system is low on gas. Never heard this before, is this correct?
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Member Posts: 245
    02 limited...when in auto the lights always come on. where is the sensor located? is there anything i can do to try to fix it myself? any idea on cost to fix? at this point unless i can fix it myself, i'll justuse them like regular lights, or maybe just leave them on all the time. any help is appreciated
  • matthattan1587matthattan1587 Member Posts: 53
    Hello I have a 2006 Eddie Bauer 4X4 Explorer. Tonight after eating dinner with the family it seemed like the steering wheel was looser than usual. At low speeds I could feel a vibration in the wheel at certain points. I do not know if there is something wrong with the wheel or should the wheel be loose like this. I was wondering if anyone else had this problem or if anyone knows what to do about it? Any help would be great.
    -MM
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    A 2006 is too new to work on it yourself. Should not that be covered under warranty? Did you take it to the dealer, and if so, what did he have to say?
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    The A/C on my wife's '96 Explorer was not cooling as well as it used to. I also noticed that the compressor clutch seems to be engaging and disengaging much more frequently than I would expect...every 5 to 10 seconds or so. My mechanic added some refrigerant, said there were no major leaks, and did not comment on the compressor engaging/ disengaging. The A/C is working well now, but I noticed there is no change with the compressor clutch is still engaging/ disengaging as frequently as it did before. Is that normal on this truck? If no, what is likely wrong? Is it something I should have repaired, or not worry about it? The truck has 112K miles on it, but for the past few years has been driven only 2000-3000 miles per year. My wife uses the truck mostly as an inclement weather alternative to her sports car.
  • matthattan1587matthattan1587 Member Posts: 53
    I have not taken it in yet, I am going to drive it later and see if it happens again, but if it keeps up I will bring it in on Tuesday. I heard that it may be that the wheels are not properly alligned,causing a vibration in the wheel. Otherwise I love my new Explorer.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Dear Shark,
    Any particular Air Conditioning system in any particular state will operate slightly differently under different conditions of Ambient Heat, and Heat Load. You did not give any specifics regarding the conditions that you were operating the system at before and after the repair. To create an equal analysis, the test conditions must be the same before and after the work is done, so that we are not comparing apples to oranges. You state that before, it was not cooling as well as it used to. You state that now it is cooling well, but the clutch cycles often. The comparison has to be made under the same conditions, approximately same hot weather, in the hot sun, and very important that you set the AC system to MAX COOL with the FAN on HIGH BLOWER each time you test. If you had the AC at a lower fan speed, it will place a lower heat load on the system, and the compressor will cycle more often, which is normal. Understand that the system does not operate under the same heat load all the time. Once the inside of the car cools down and the compressor can easily cool the car, the pressures in the system drop and the compressor will drop out sooner, and cycle more often. Lower temperatures = Lower Pressures = Compressor cycles out when pressure drops. The compressor cycles out when the pressure drops because it is operated by a low side pressure switch. When the evaporator pressure gets down to 21 to 20 lbs, the pressure switch shuts the compressor off, until the evaporator pressure rises back up to about 40 lbs, then it cuts the copressor back on. So TWO things cause the compressor to cycle off, Normal operation when the cooling is good enough for the pressure to drop to 21 lbs, or if the refrigerant charge is low and the pressure drops to 21 lbs. If cooling is not quite perfect and the compressor cycles on and off a lot, it might be that there could be a small restriction in the refrigeration circuit, usually at the orifice tube screen, which could cause evaporator pressure to drop and cut off the compressor. The mechanic can see this on his guages, by seeing that the low side pressure drops rapidly and quickly. If he charged it up, and watched the gauges, he probably desided it was working ok. I think in your case the AC is operating normally or near normally. Be sure to leave the FAN on HIGH Blower and the AC on MAX COOL (Recirculate), and see if the compressor still seems to cycle too often. If it is cooling well under all conditions, especially very hot weather, then the system is ok, even if it does cycle fairly often, it just means the compressor is doing it's job easily, and can rest more often. Let us know how does.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • jackifljackifl Member Posts: 2
    Afternoon all (steve and tidester included!):
    I have a 99 Ford Explorer Sport, 2wd, auto transmission. Put new tires on about a year ago and started having trouble (shimmy/shake from 62-68 mph, apprx) in April/May so I brought it in for wheel balancing. And again. And again. Still got the wicked shake, rattle and roll.

    So, long story short, I brought it in to Goodyear (Goodyear tires) instead of the place that had been doing the balancing. Husband thought maybe a belt went in one or more tires. So yes, the back tires have to be replaced (they pro-rated the price, however). Also, Goodyear said that the front ball joints needed replacing (yah, after 145,000 miles, we agreed).

    My problem came when I picked it up. I had a wicked bad shimmy, shake, shudder when I started to drive it away (in the front end). I immediately stopped the car in the middle of their parking lot and went back in. One service guy was at the desk and he said it was a common problem with Ford Explorers whenever they had to be lifted by control arm (to replace ball joints) and it had something to do with the bushing having to "reseat" and it would go away in 10-15 miles of driving. He apologized for not saying something to me.
    Neither my husband or I had ever heard of it. Checked online, nothing popped up. I then called Ford and they suggested that I call my local dealership. I spoke with service rep there and she said she had never, ever heard of it either.
    Goodyear claims it will all smooth out in 10-15 miles. I've now gone approx. 20 and yah, it is a tad smoother but I am still pretty suspicious. Every time I turn the wheels, the tires shudder. Has anyone else had this issue? Is Goodyear dreaming? Is my Ford dealer?
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    Many thanks for the detailed explaination. As you suggested, when I select Max Cool with the blower on the highest speed, the compressor is engaged 100% of the time. So it does appear that the system is functioning normally. When I place a lower heat load on the system, the compressor does cycle on and off every 10 seconds or so. I was thinking that it should be cycling on and off much less frequently (every minute or two), but it certainly sounds like you know what you are talking about. Thanks again for your help.
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    I had the ball joints replaced on my wife's 96 Explorer not long ago, and did not experience the condition you are experiencing.
  • billy16billy16 Member Posts: 1
    yes you should.I have a 92 sport. and it's still going :)
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Shark, You're welcome.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    That whole Goodyear story is BS. I have never heard of such a rediculous story. I've been around way too long already. I've rebuilt Front Ends and especially Ford Explorer Front Ends and replaced many Ball Joints, and never had any problem. When the front end is correct, the vehicle should drive as smooth as silk. If it doesn't, Take It Back! I would have never drove that thing off their lot, especially if it was so bad that you could feel it in their lot before even getting out onto the road. The Front End is designed to be ROCK SOLID, to hold all the parts and wheels at exactly the perfect angles under all driving conditons, under all kinds of road forces. There is NOTHING to "SETTLE IN" or "BREAK IN' or to "WEAR IN". The Alignment is supposed to be perfectly set and constantly remain that way until something wears out or bends or breaks. I say take it back and get them to do it right, or demand your money back and take it somewhere else. Do not not put up with such nonsense.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • matthattan1587matthattan1587 Member Posts: 53
    Hello all I recently purchased a 2006 Eddie Bauer Ford Explorer and at 400 miles I have noticed a clunking noise in the steering column, particularly when I turn the wheel. I have brought it into the service department at Ford and they told me they have had messages about a steering column shaft problem. They will have to order a new part to fix this problem and the manager said they might have a recall on it soon. I wanted to see if anyone else had this problem since the manager said he has gotten numerous complaints?
    Thanks MM
  • rajamansinghrajamansingh Member Posts: 3
    Hello, My Explorer started making some 'rattling' noise when it is idling. It comes from right underneath the center of the truck. I am wondering if it is a transmission problem. Any ideas what it could be...
    Thanks
  • gasburner1gasburner1 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 99 Explorer XLT w/ the 5.0 L V8, 4 speed auto trans, 69K miles. Recently I have noticed the shift from 1st to 2nd, is a bit hard and jerky. There doesn't seem to be a delay in the shift just more harsh than previous. I've changed the trans fluid at the scheduled intervals. Anybody have this same issue? Is it typical for these transmissions, or do I have a developing problem?

    Overall this has been a great vehicle!
  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    Not here ('06 Explorer XLT V6) or my father-in-law ('06 Explorer EB V8). No problems for either of us.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    It could be several things causing the rattle at idle, the most common cause is a loose heat shield on the exhaust system. If you find that to be the problem, it can be tack welded back in place or tie wired back in place (welding preferred). Let it cool completely before you try to touch it.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You have low milage on that vehicle, and you have one of the most reliable transmissions Ford makes, the 4R70W, they hardly ever give any problem. My 1997 XLT V8 with 147K miles shifts perfect, never a tranny or engine problem, same for my 2000 XLT V8 with 124K miles. I service my tranmission every 30K and I do a transmission fluid flush and new filter every time, not just a drain and refill. I do mine myself to be sure it's done right, but you can take yours to any reputable shop to have it done. I would suggest you do the tranny flush and new fluid every 30,000 miles, and do and EXTRA ONE right now, since you are having this little glitch. If after the flush the problem continues, only then would I recommend adding a transmission additive. I'll tell you what it is, if you need it, after the flush.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • cuznverncuznvern Member Posts: 4
    Just got my truck back. Turns out it was the crank sensor. Cost $214 with tax.
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    The problem might also be harmonic vibration of the exhaust system at idle. I had the same problem with my 99 Explorer when it was new. There was a TSB and th dealer installed a kit that fixed the problem until the warranty ran out. My truck is now rattling at idle again. To test my hypothesis, start the truck and push on the exhaust pipe with your foot. If the vibration stops that is what it is. The exhaust system hangers have lost some their elastic power, have stretched and the rattle returned.
  • joe_88joe_88 Member Posts: 2
    electric,
    thanks for the advice. I'll try and do the wd40 fix first. It's just amazing that i purchased this vehicle new and i'm running into these little problems (not to mention that i'm on my fourth repair from the dealership). the car isn't even at 15k yet. needless to say, i've become soured by this ford experience.
  • jackifljackifl Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the responses, Shark and ED. The shudder is all gone now but I am taking it further. I've contacted Goodyear corporate with my tale of woe and concluded it with this comment:
    NO one except for the Goodyear service place has had this issue, apparently. And THEY think it is perfectly normal. Neither Ford corporate, my local Ford dealer or anyone on the Ford service forum sites have confirmed that this is a true scenario.
    I am concerned, even though the shudder has gone away. I want to be sure that no damage has been done to either my tires, my ball joints, my bushings or ANYTHING else in my front end! How can I have peace of mind about this? Can you, will you help me?
    At the very least, I want a different Goodyear shop to inspect my Explorer and make sure that has been no damage or should be no repercussions.
    Will keep you posted and thanks for the support!
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Joe, I think the mechanic originally missed the problem probably because he did not run the engine with the belt off. If he would have done that, the problem would have been obvious to him, and he would have investigated the front crankshaft seal and repaired it. Remember, this is not a common problem. Also remember that you have not yet confirmed the problem, by taking the belt off and running the engine for no more than a minute. Please let us know what you find. My wifes 1997 has never squealed in 146,000 miles, and my 2000 sometimes squeals now at 124,000 miles. When I spray the WD40 on the crankshft seal, the squeal goes away, after a few weeks it comes back, not as loud as before, it never seems to hurt anything, runs fine, but embarrassing when driving down the street or stopped at a traffic light and people stare at you. For some reason the seal seems to dry and causes the squeal. I keep hoping it will begin to seep oil and lubricate itself and shut up. I bought a new seal a while back, in case I need to change it. It comes in a front timing cover gasket/seal set for about $15.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • puzzleddadpuzzleddad Member Posts: 3
    My 16 year old son has his heart set on a Black Xplorer 4WD XLT with certain options. After searching for a few days, we found a suitably configured vehicle at a CarMax dealer out of state. It is a 2003 with 30K miles. We paid $150 to move the car here and we test drove the car yesterday. Well, things did not go well. Whenever we accelerated from a dead stop and turned the steering wheel either left or right, a rumbling noise and pull came from the rear axle. The CarMax service department checked the car and said that the rear differential was bad and that it needed to be replaced - a 7 hour job. They said that these went out all the time on Explorers. Of course, they assured us that the car would be 100% after their service. As you can imagine, Mom and Dad are thinking - uh-oh, we need to stay away from this car. Are we over-reacting or do we need to stay away from this car?
  • gasburner1gasburner1 Member Posts: 10
    E.D.,
    I have been doing the tranny fluid change and new filter every 30 K miles, the last one about 8K ago, so I don't want to redo it again unless I have no choice, since it is not cheap. I have about 1 mo left on my Premium care extended warranty. I'll think I take it to the dealer. Problem is, without something "broken" I anticipate a response like "that's tyipcal or nothing out of spec". But I know for a fact that something has changed in the last few K miles. Any clue as to what I might direct the dealer to look for or at? Thanks!
  • matthattan1587matthattan1587 Member Posts: 53
    My uncle had the same vehicle in the same color and he had no problems with it. He absolutley loved the car. If you are worried about safety, my uncle was involved with a head on crash, as someone ran a red light. The Explorer took hardly any damage. It has been the top selling suv in america for 15 years now. I just recently bought a 2006 Eddie Bauer Explorer (Black) and I love it. This is coming off a reliable car in a 2004 Honda Accord. I would reccomend the 2003 Ford Explorer based on what my uncle had to say about it, but I am not sure if you want to look at this particular vehicle, as it seems to have the rear axle problem. You should not have any trouble finding a 2003 Explorer in black, there are many of them out there.
    -MM
  • puzzleddadpuzzleddad Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the response. FYI, the main options we want that are kind of hard to find are leather seats, but no sunroof (he's 6'4" and still growing).

    To be more specific on my question, is there a known systemic problem with the rear axle and/or differential on some 2003 Explorers? If the problem occurs is it serviceable or does it typically reoccur? The guys at CarMax said this happens all the time and that it is 100% correctable. However, since they are not exactly impartial, I wanted to check with the knowledgeable users of Edmunds.
  • matthattan1587matthattan1587 Member Posts: 53
    If you dont mind me asking, where are you located and where did you find this 2003 explorer. I am from the NYC area and there are a ton of 2003's around here.
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