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Comments
Best regards
Robert
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
When I attempted to start my suv this afternoon, I accidently didn't allow the engine to engage all the way before I let go of the key. I heard a loud "poof" sound. When I started the truck again, it began to sputter and there is a loud air sucking noise. I checked under the hood and the loud air sucking noise is coming from a gold spout on the rear drivers side part of the engine (i'm not sure what it's called). Could someone please provide me with the technical name for this. I'm assuming that a hose came loose, but I'm not sure where it went or where it should be connected to. Pictures would help if you have any. thanks very much for your help.
Drive Off ' light starts blinking, and it starts shifting better, but slower. After my car is off for about an hour or so,it will shift normal again when I drive off (again, only for a few minutes.)
Also, does anyone know where I can find the oxygen sensor on a 2000 explorer?
PLEASE help!
Thank you!
I have a 2002 Ford Explorer Limited. The front door panels have a plastic wood grained decorative trim piece just below the window. The trim piece on both of the front doors is loose because the push in plastic plugs used to secure them have broken. I went to the local Ford dealer to get replacements and was told that the trim pieces are not sold separately and that I would have to buy a complete door panel. The trim piece would probably cost $30 or so but the complete door panel cost about $400.00. Has anybody run into the same problem and if so have you found a way to get a replacement trim piece.
Any response would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Robert
i used that 'stick and seal' to bond a piece of trim for my liminate floor directly onto the concrete underneath. it is still solidly attached after 5 years.
i have an '02 eb with the same trim?
These things measure exhaust gases, so it has to be somewhere after the engine exhaust manifold, and before the catalytic converter (assuming it's a sensor-1 failure you have).
My failure was a bank-2, sensor-2 failure so it was the one after the converter.
When I'm outside of the Explorer and the engine is on, I hear a chirping / whirling noise. Not a fan belt noise, but I'm guessing it might be a belt??
When I'm driving, I hear a clicking noise. Sounds like it is right behind the gauges / radio. It's not loud, but I definitely hear it. Could this be the same noise?
Any help would be much appreciated.
a) can I take this hook off the existing pair?
b) if no, what brand of wipers actually will work without extra parts?
It should not be this difficult to change the wipers. I did it before, but it was a while ago.
Thanks!!
Any thoughts on the clicking noise that's behind the radio / gauges? I notice that more.
Thanks!
Very weird though, no sign of starting at all, just flat monotone cranking.
-thanks!
Could it need more refrigerant again? Is that something that has to be done by a shop or can I do it at home? I don't want to pay hundreds of dollars for something I can do myself. I didn't have any hose work done last time so maybe I need to have the hoses replaced now.
If you took the time to learn about A/C, you could have done that work for about $100.00 and it would probably still be working now. You can do the work at home if you learn to do it SAFELY and CORRECTLY, and it's not that hard. First, you need to be mechanically inclined, you need to have a basic knowledge of how cars and mechanical things work and know how to use tools. I would not recommend you try to do A/C, unless you have sucessfully done things like replace alternators, water pumps, radiators, brakes, ball joints, electrical diagnosis, etc. Next, get on the internet and Google Auto Air Conditioning Repair, and get yourself a very good book about repairing auto a/c and learn all about it FIRST. Then get your BASIC tools, Dial temperature gauge with probe - about $10 (looks like a meat thermometer, reads from about 0 degrees F to about 220 degrees f) stick it in you dash vent to read Vent Temps, a manifold guage set with hoses and push on connectors - $100 or less to read system pressures, a good vaccuum pump - about $200-$250 to evacuate the system be fore you charge it, an electronic leak detector - about $200 to find leaks, then some special tools for whatever car you may be working on, like Spring Lock disconnect tools, an infrared thermometer is helpful but not necessary. Google Auto Air Conditioning Tools.
You can buy that Explorer Accumulator for about $50 - $60, the seals usually are cheap, depending on what kind and where, the 134a refrigerant is going for about $8 a can (2 or 3 cans will fill most cars).
Using the guages will tell you if you need refrigerant, and what the problem might be. If Refrigerant is low, you have a leak, and you use the leak detector to find the leak, and when you find it, you repair it, and replace the leaking part, either it's a hose, connection or a part. If you have to "open" the system to replace a part, and the system still has gas in it, you will need to take it to a garage so they can "recover" the refrigerant out of the system. It is illegal to intentionally discharge the refrigerant into the atmosphere. The pressures in the system will vary some according to the outside "ambient" temperature. The low side pressure should run between 20 to 35 pounds, the closer to 20, the colder the "Vent" Temperature will be. The high side pressure should run about 200 to 240, again depending on the ambient temperature. Rule of thumb Guideline for High side pressure is at idle it should be about 2.3 to 2.5 times the ambient temperature, and at fast idle it should be about 2.6 times the ambient temperature.
Example: Outside temp is 95 degrees, at idle low side should be about 25-30, high side should be about 220-238. At fast idle low side should be about 25-30, high side should be about 245-247. If the high side is low, you are probably low on refrigerant. Charge slowly to get the high side to the correct pressure, but be sure NOT to over charge. It is better to have a little less pressure in the system, than too have to much. Too much pressure will desrease cooling and quickly wear out the compressor.
If the low side is high and the high side is low, you probably have a weak compressor. If the low side goes very low, even into a vaccuum, and the high side is normal to a little low, you probably have a restiction at the orifice tube or expansion valve.
Hope that helps to get you started.
E.D. ISF
Does replacing a hose constitute "opening" the system? If I get to that point I suppose I'd have the garage open it rather than spend $250 on a vacuum pump.
Is there a recommended brand/model of leak detector or are they pretty standard?
Yes, replacing a hose is definetly opening the system. Anything that you do that allows refrigerant to escape to the atmosphere is "opening" the system. AC work can get very expensive. I have done a complete "AC Front End Replacements" where the parts and materials cost almost $1000. You can spend $1500 for a complete "AC Front end Replacement" which includes replacing everything under the hood. I had to do this on each of my early Explorers (91 & 93) because of Fords sorry compressors that suffered from "Black Death". My newer Ford Explorer compressors (97 & 2000) are holding up fine so far.
Recommended Brands - As I said before, the best and cheapest way to find the tool you need is do a Google Search for them, type in "Automotive Air Conditioning" or "Air conditioning tools". You will find a wealth of good information. Their are two big Automotive AC sites, and you will find them with Google, and they have everything that you need at the right price. Buy a good Automotive AC repair manual first, that will help you decide what tools to get and what you think you can do. The AC manuals are it the same sites as the tools, and also lot of other sites. The best leak detector is an electronic leak detector. You can also buy that fluorescent dye that you put in the system, but it usually takes a long time to find the leak that way. My Leak Detector is a TIF 5050A, I paid about $200 for it in 1999.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
I am looking for a diff for my ford explorer 2000 XLT. Where did you get your diff from?
Rubygirl20
1st issue - I had my rack and pinion replaced last week because it was leaking. Now that the new one is in place, I can hear it "creaking" when I stop and go. I called the mechanic and he said there is a break in period with this new rack and to give it one more week. Is this true or could there be a problem with the installation.
2nd issue - This one is the kicker - I am having issues with what I would describe as a hesitation or a pause. When accelerating slowly or when keeping it at about 25-30mph it seems like it hesitates or just doesn't want to go. If I give it gas it will "push" right through it. It almost seems like it wants to stall but does not. This issue primarily happens when it is raining/snowing or there is moisture in the air but I have had it happen once or twice on dry days. It was the worst on a day when I was driving it during a snow storm. It did it all the way home but as long as I gave it the gas it would "push" right through it. The check engine light never comes on. The mechanic said this will be hard to trouble shoot since it is intermittent and we will need to take the wait and see approach. I just had a complete tune up ... spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, etc. The mechanic thought it could be a miss but I am still having the issue after new plugs/wires.
Any thoughts on this?