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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • 98explorer98explorer Member Posts: 8
    thanks i will try that
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    Another thing you might want to try is cleaning or replacing the EGR valve. If gets stuck open it will cause the stalling at idle. My 99 XLT had the same stalling at idle problem and the EGR fix did the trick. I removed the EGR Valve and cleaned it with some WD 40. There is no guarantee this will work, but give it a shot if the other suggestions do not work.
  • vegas2125vegas2125 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the response. Have verified that the problem is the blend door. Either the circuit, actuator or door. Guess it will have to go to the dealer. Not concerned as much about the money as I am about how much damage they will cause while doing the job.

    Best regards

    Robert
  • cwbkycwbky Member Posts: 2
    My explorer when idling, has a vibration coming from the engine. Its not real loud but it is at the same time. And u can feel it through out the floor board of the truck. ANyone have any suggestions :confuse:
  • kcwhodeykcwhodey Member Posts: 2
    I recently had the tensioner and pulley replaced on my 95 (145K miles). Mechanic claimed that battery went dead on them overnight and needed to be replaced as well. One week later, the engine intermittently but completely fails to accelerate when depressing accelerator to the floor. Sometime engine "kicks in," or simply dies and I have to restart while rolling in neutral. Can't get top speed over 60 mph, less going up hill. Took it to another mechanic (former dealership) who ran diagnostics, found nothing wrong, but suggested replacing fuel pump and cleaning injectors. Done. Still no improvement. Sometimes the engine "kicks in", otherwise just dies. :mad: Suggestions?
  • sybercagesybercage Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ford Explorer Eddie Baurer 4x4 SOH V6 with an electrical problem. It started with phones call at work from the wife saying the truck wouldn`t turn over, I`d come home and 75% of the time the truck would start with no problems. Thinking she might be losing her mind I blew it off but the problem got worse, so I had the battery and charging system checked and sure enough she was right. I replaced the battery and alternator, everything was great for a day. Today the battery gauge is dropping to around a 1/4 of the way from the bottom when the trucks at idle and the lights, radio and heat are on. Get on the gas and the gauge goes to the half way point. Now after searching the web I found a site talking about a " smart " charging system and a possible computer problem. Any of you heard of this or have any idea what might be the problem? Thanks for any help you can provide.
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    My dad has a 2002 Ford Explorer & the O/D light started flashing this morning. The manual says it's a transmission problem & to take it in for service. It's not my car so I haven't kept up with this message board but does anyone know what it could be or common causes of it? He just had the fluid flushed recently.
  • pimpjuicepimpjuice Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1995 explorer controltrack 4x4 when i push on the brakes hard it feels like the peddel is pushing back up and it makes a humming sound i have put new lines and brake all around the car does anyone know what this could be ">
  • pimpjuicepimpjuice Member Posts: 3
    i have a 1995 explorer controltrack 4x4 when you put it in four wheel drive it makes a loud noise and the front wheel will not pull does anyone know what might be wrong
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    Hey, thanks for the non-existent replies. Glad I have a Nissan & frequent their forums where people actually help each other. Oh, then again... owning a Nissan you don't have problems like this on a 5 year old car. I can't imagine why the "BIG 3" is a sinking ship...
  • vijavija Member Posts: 1
    Had ball bearings replaced,had an alignment done, but right tire is leaning inwards. Not sure if there has been damage.
  • herrpockherrpock Member Posts: 1
    Smokey75 -- I also had the flashing O/D light. I felt a clunk on morning, found my car would no longer shift gears, and saw the flashing light. I had to get my transmission rebuilt. I hope your luck is better.
  • mz_cocomz_coco Member Posts: 5
    I too have a blinking O/D light AND have had my transmission replaced to the tune of $2552!!! The light still flashes anyone know a remedy? I have also been told that my differential rod needs to be worked on anyone have a clue as to what that is?
  • tfmrtfmr Member Posts: 10
    Just to update you, I took my 2006 Explorer V6 in yesterday for 10000 mile service. They informed me that they got a TSB and that they need to reprogram the vehicle's computer. I asked them what it was about and they said something about delayed shifting and higher than normal RPMs. After programming, the shifting is much smoother and the whisting noise has not been as pronounced as before (probably because of the smoother RPMs). My theory is that because of the initial faulty gear shifting the serpentine belt got glazed (I baught it during the hot season), but the whisting/squealing noise from the slipping belt only apeared when temperatures dropped. I will have to take it back to replace the belt with a new one and see if this takes care of the noise when cold.
  • frozennuggetfrozennugget Member Posts: 2
    '98 Explorer XLT EB with 101K miles. 4WD High and Low lights blink 5-6 times a minute. Any ideas?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    What you feel is the anti-lock brake activating. It should activate when you push the brakes hard. If you feel that it is activating too early, have the anti-lock brakes checked for codes and or adjustments.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • basolithbasolith Member Posts: 2
    If the idling problem persists or returns, you may want to check/replace the idle air motor. It is located under the plastic shroud on top of the engine. Mine went bad two years ago and exibited the same symptoms before it died completely. I think it cost about $80 from the dealer.
  • basolithbasolith Member Posts: 2
    Is it a vibration or a rattling noise? If it is really a rattling noise you may wish to inspect the various heat shields on the exhaust system. They are known to come loose and vibrate against the pipe. Loose heat shields can be secured using an appropriate sized stainless steel hose clamp. This is the reccomended fix from Ford for loose heat shields.
  • raneyd420raneyd420 Member Posts: 1
    I need some help i have a 2000 explorer xlt 4.0 sohc automatic and it will shift 1 2and 3 really hard but tacks out 3rd at about 35 and causes temperature gauge to climb drastically. Also over drive light glitches and when i hit the over drive it makes the truck run even worse...not sure what is is...wether it is wiring...altenator...a servo or silenoid...or a band for those gears...need help asap still owe $9,000 to the bank and it wont drive....dont wana replace the tranny either becuase reading all the posts i dont think it is the whole tranny
  • kinney201kinney201 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    When I attempted to start my suv this afternoon, I accidently didn't allow the engine to engage all the way before I let go of the key. I heard a loud "poof" sound. When I started the truck again, it began to sputter and there is a loud air sucking noise. I checked under the hood and the loud air sucking noise is coming from a gold spout on the rear drivers side part of the engine (i'm not sure what it's called). Could someone please provide me with the technical name for this. I'm assuming that a hose came loose, but I'm not sure where it went or where it should be connected to. Pictures would help if you have any. thanks very much for your help.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Perhaps a picture from you, showing what you are referencing, would be easier for people to then figure out. A "gold spout" doesn't do it for me.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    And an easy way to post your car pics is by setting up your CarSpace page.
  • bsinkbeilbsinkbeil Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2002 exp xlt. the o/d light was also blinking. and it wouldn't shift into 5th gear. so i had 2,600 dollars worth of trans work done and they replaced the selinoids, intermediate gears, torque converter, and some other things. the service engine light came back on a week later, and the nuetral switch was out of adjustment. and the diff problem: i replaced the diff in mine. the bering was shot which caused the gears to to rub wrong. it made such a loud noise! i would recomend if you have a rear diff problem to replace it w/ a used one. it was $500 bucks and wasn't that hard to install. just make sure that the gears/bearings are good in it!
  • akasoulakasoul Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Ford Explorer, 4WD, with about 65000 and I am having some troubles shifting from first to second, and second to third. The problem only occurs after a few minutes of driving. After the car has warmed up, it shifts hard from first to second and even harder from second to third. After about another 15 miles of driving, the 'Over
    Drive Off ' light starts blinking, and it starts shifting better, but slower. After my car is off for about an hour or so,it will shift normal again when I drive off (again, only for a few minutes.)

    Also, does anyone know where I can find the oxygen sensor on a 2000 explorer?
    PLEASE help!

    Thank you!
  • vegas2125vegas2125 Member Posts: 3
    Hi all,

    I have a 2002 Ford Explorer Limited. The front door panels have a plastic wood grained decorative trim piece just below the window. The trim piece on both of the front doors is loose because the push in plastic plugs used to secure them have broken. I went to the local Ford dealer to get replacements and was told that the trim pieces are not sold separately and that I would have to buy a complete door panel. The trim piece would probably cost $30 or so but the complete door panel cost about $400.00. Has anybody run into the same problem and if so have you found a way to get a replacement trim piece.

    Any response would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Robert
  • akasoulakasoul Member Posts: 2
    You should try checking a junk yard for the piece. If they don't have just the piece, they can probably sell you the door panel for a lot less.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,256
    since it is just a piece of trim, apply some loctite 'stick and seal'. roll the window down and use some padded clamps to hold it on(gently).
    i used that 'stick and seal' to bond a piece of trim for my liminate floor directly onto the concrete underneath. it is still solidly attached after 5 years.
    i have an '02 eb with the same trim?
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I haven't looked at my 04explorer, but I have just recently been under my 97 Suburban for the oxygen sensors. In the suburban, there is an O2 sensor in the pipe immediately before the catalytic converter, and another one after the catalytic converter.

    These things measure exhaust gases, so it has to be somewhere after the engine exhaust manifold, and before the catalytic converter (assuming it's a sensor-1 failure you have).

    My failure was a bank-2, sensor-2 failure so it was the one after the converter.
  • chandykchandyk Member Posts: 17
    99 Explorer XLT, 74K, all maintence up to date. Recently (3 months time frame) had IAC valve and O2 sensors replaced.

    When I'm outside of the Explorer and the engine is on, I hear a chirping / whirling noise. Not a fan belt noise, but I'm guessing it might be a belt??

    When I'm driving, I hear a clicking noise. Sounds like it is right behind the gauges / radio. It's not loud, but I definitely hear it. Could this be the same noise?

    Any help would be much appreciated.
  • chandykchandyk Member Posts: 17
    99 Explorer XLT. Wipers are starting to streak. Bought replacement ones (Rain X brand). However, they seem to be missing a piece that looks like a hook.

    a) can I take this hook off the existing pair?
    b) if no, what brand of wipers actually will work without extra parts?

    It should not be this difficult to change the wipers. I did it before, but it was a while ago.

    Thanks!!
  • chris87chris87 Member Posts: 1
    Same w/ my explorer any Idea what you had wrong? E-mail me @ llcl@clearwire.net
  • fl_rogerfl_roger Member Posts: 2
    Is it kind of a drone-ing belt-liek noise? My 98 explorer xlt had a belt like noise when idling. It turned out to be the Idle Air Control Valve. It was an easy fix, it sits right on top of the engine. The part was $30-35 dollars. Takes about 5 minutes to replace.
  • chandykchandyk Member Posts: 17
    Interesting. I had the IAC valve replaced about 3 months ago. That would explain the belt like noise.

    Any thoughts on the clicking noise that's behind the radio / gauges? I notice that more.

    Thanks!
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    yesterday i was out running errands and i came home for a few min. when i went to start it, it cranked but showed no sign of life. i can hear the fuel pump and theres gas. cant figure it out. any ideas?
  • chandykchandyk Member Posts: 17
    Sounds familiar. My starting problems were a bad O2 sensor and a bad IAC (Intake Air Control) valve. Both were fixed and I'm good to go.
  • steph4591steph4591 Member Posts: 1
    I've had an ongoing problem that seems to be related to hot weather. The situation is that when you go to accelerate, either from a stopped position or just after slowing down, the car jerks and hesitates and seems to have no power. This seems to hit just as you're going through an intersection. Usually, if the car is turned off for a while the problem eases, but doesn't really go away. Last Summer, I took it into the shop and after describing the situation, my mechanic let the car run for several hours in the heat, but the problem did not occur. He added some type of solution (can't remember what) and it helped, but today the temperature reached 85 and, of course, it did it again. This problem has plagued the car for last 3 years and has eluded mechanics efforts because it never happens in their presence. Somebody mentioned that something called "vapor lock" might be occurring, but my mechanic says that this can't be the problem. Can anybody help?
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    I replaced the o2 sensors a few weeks ago, but Ive done nothing with the AIC valve. I'm replacing the plugs and wires tomorrow and see if anything happens. How was your problem diagnosed? Did it start before you fixed it?
    Very weird though, no sign of starting at all, just flat monotone cranking.
  • dbergdberg Member Posts: 1
    Hey Bob, I just had this start happening. What did you finally determine to be the cause of the problem. My car drives fine, 4wd even works, but it flashes like your did?
    -thanks!
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    I've replaced the plugs and wires also, to no avail. I think I'm gonna shoot for the distributor next.
  • kenimatorkenimator Member Posts: 2
    I spent $680 18 months ago to have the AC fixed in my 1996 Ford Explorer. Now that the warranty on that service has expired it has stopped working again. They replaced the accumulator and seals and some new refrigerant.

    Could it need more refrigerant again? Is that something that has to be done by a shop or can I do it at home? I don't want to pay hundreds of dollars for something I can do myself. I didn't have any hose work done last time so maybe I need to have the hoses replaced now.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Sorry for your troubles.
    If you took the time to learn about A/C, you could have done that work for about $100.00 and it would probably still be working now. You can do the work at home if you learn to do it SAFELY and CORRECTLY, and it's not that hard. First, you need to be mechanically inclined, you need to have a basic knowledge of how cars and mechanical things work and know how to use tools. I would not recommend you try to do A/C, unless you have sucessfully done things like replace alternators, water pumps, radiators, brakes, ball joints, electrical diagnosis, etc. Next, get on the internet and Google Auto Air Conditioning Repair, and get yourself a very good book about repairing auto a/c and learn all about it FIRST. Then get your BASIC tools, Dial temperature gauge with probe - about $10 (looks like a meat thermometer, reads from about 0 degrees F to about 220 degrees f) stick it in you dash vent to read Vent Temps, a manifold guage set with hoses and push on connectors - $100 or less to read system pressures, a good vaccuum pump - about $200-$250 to evacuate the system be fore you charge it, an electronic leak detector - about $200 to find leaks, then some special tools for whatever car you may be working on, like Spring Lock disconnect tools, an infrared thermometer is helpful but not necessary. Google Auto Air Conditioning Tools.
    You can buy that Explorer Accumulator for about $50 - $60, the seals usually are cheap, depending on what kind and where, the 134a refrigerant is going for about $8 a can (2 or 3 cans will fill most cars).
    Using the guages will tell you if you need refrigerant, and what the problem might be. If Refrigerant is low, you have a leak, and you use the leak detector to find the leak, and when you find it, you repair it, and replace the leaking part, either it's a hose, connection or a part. If you have to "open" the system to replace a part, and the system still has gas in it, you will need to take it to a garage so they can "recover" the refrigerant out of the system. It is illegal to intentionally discharge the refrigerant into the atmosphere. The pressures in the system will vary some according to the outside "ambient" temperature. The low side pressure should run between 20 to 35 pounds, the closer to 20, the colder the "Vent" Temperature will be. The high side pressure should run about 200 to 240, again depending on the ambient temperature. Rule of thumb Guideline for High side pressure is at idle it should be about 2.3 to 2.5 times the ambient temperature, and at fast idle it should be about 2.6 times the ambient temperature.
    Example: Outside temp is 95 degrees, at idle low side should be about 25-30, high side should be about 220-238. At fast idle low side should be about 25-30, high side should be about 245-247. If the high side is low, you are probably low on refrigerant. Charge slowly to get the high side to the correct pressure, but be sure NOT to over charge. It is better to have a little less pressure in the system, than too have to much. Too much pressure will desrease cooling and quickly wear out the compressor.
    If the low side is high and the high side is low, you probably have a weak compressor. If the low side goes very low, even into a vaccuum, and the high side is normal to a little low, you probably have a restiction at the orifice tube or expansion valve.
    Hope that helps to get you started.
    E.D. ISF
  • kenimatorkenimator Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the detailed information. I'm mechanically inclined and willing to learn, but am not very experienced. From your estimates I'd have to spend at least $300 just to have the proper tools to diagnose the problem. I'm not sure I'm up for that, but if I do it I have a couple more questions.

    Does replacing a hose constitute "opening" the system? If I get to that point I suppose I'd have the garage open it rather than spend $250 on a vacuum pump.

    Is there a recommended brand/model of leak detector or are they pretty standard?
  • dobbsc1dobbsc1 Member Posts: 1
    I have replaced the outside drivers side door handle on my 2000 mountaineer, I am having trouble connecting the linkage to the door on the inside. I have no problem with the door panel I just can't get the linkage connected.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Tools are an INVESTMENT. First you have to decide if you want to do that type of work, and if you will continue to do it. You would NOT spend $500 for tools to do ONE job. It depends on what you want to do in the future. As an example in my case, I've always had lots of cars to work on, my cars, my wife's cars and my daughters car's, so I am always using all kinds of tools. I probably use my AC gauges 2 or 3 times a year, adding or checking refrigerant and do AC repair work maybe once a year or less. But the tools ARE very handy, they are there right when you need them. I have a large 2 car garage/workshop with over $10,000 in tools that I have accumulated over my lifetime, welders, hydraulic presses, floor jacks, stands, tons of hand tools, big rolling chests, and lots of specialized tools for AC, Electrical, Transmissions, Front Ends, Suspension, etc. Like I said, it's an investment. And when I die, I am quite sure that someone will put them to good use.
    Yes, replacing a hose is definetly opening the system. Anything that you do that allows refrigerant to escape to the atmosphere is "opening" the system. AC work can get very expensive. I have done a complete "AC Front End Replacements" where the parts and materials cost almost $1000. You can spend $1500 for a complete "AC Front end Replacement" which includes replacing everything under the hood. I had to do this on each of my early Explorers (91 & 93) because of Fords sorry compressors that suffered from "Black Death". My newer Ford Explorer compressors (97 & 2000) are holding up fine so far.
    Recommended Brands - As I said before, the best and cheapest way to find the tool you need is do a Google Search for them, type in "Automotive Air Conditioning" or "Air conditioning tools". You will find a wealth of good information. Their are two big Automotive AC sites, and you will find them with Google, and they have everything that you need at the right price. Buy a good Automotive AC repair manual first, that will help you decide what tools to get and what you think you can do. The AC manuals are it the same sites as the tools, and also lot of other sites. The best leak detector is an electronic leak detector. You can also buy that fluorescent dye that you put in the system, but it usually takes a long time to find the leak that way. My Leak Detector is a TIF 5050A, I paid about $200 for it in 1999.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • rubygirl20rubygirl20 Member Posts: 1
    Hi bsinkbeil,

    I am looking for a diff for my ford explorer 2000 XLT. Where did you get your diff from?

    Rubygirl20
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    I got fed up with the no starting, so I finally broke down and went to the dealer. They said that the main "brain" was showing no activity at all. So they flashed it for me, and after that it started no problem. Strange thing, but glad all is better!
  • c304531c304531 Member Posts: 3
    I have experienced the same exact problem with my 98 Explorer and it only happens during hot weather (if I use the air-conditioner ... I'm asking for trouble). After its turned off for 30 minutes or so ... I try to start up and it will barely idle. It quits if I try to put it in gear. If I just shut off car and sit for awhile (or try to keep it idling, turn off, then it usually starts up fine (it seems as if something is stuck and then it opens up)?! I asked my former "Ford mechanic" friend ... he said it has nothing to do with the airconditioning and it could be one of six different things which didn't do me any good. Since I don't want to put any money into the thing I keep driving it, when thr problem occurs I just deal with it. I sure don't feel like going to Ford Dealer and have them fix 6 different things and then have it still not work. It might happen 4 times a year and its been doing it for about 3 years now and hasn't left me stranded anywhere. Everytime I get tempted to take it in I remember how frustrating it is to take it to dealer for repair and I don't do it. If you figure this one out let me know!!
  • c304531c304531 Member Posts: 3
    I have similar problems with my 98 Explorer and its been doing it maybe 3 times a year (for the past 2-3 years). It hasn't progressed by getting any worse. It normally happens when outside temp is very hot. If I let it sit after attempting to start it (won't idle, I have to keep it reved up for awhile, then turn off, let it sit). It usually starts about 5 minutes later - as if nothing happened?! I get home and then it doesn't do it for months which keeps me from the repair station. They usually find 50 other things to repair that I don't want. I figure you experienced no start at all and its a different problem.
  • c304531c304531 Member Posts: 3
    Did you ever figure out what the problem was? Mine is doing the exact same thing.
  • cjm10cjm10 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Explorer with 98,000 miles and have a couple of questions. Please forgive me if I have trouble describing my issues as I do not have much mechanical knowledge.

    1st issue - I had my rack and pinion replaced last week because it was leaking. Now that the new one is in place, I can hear it "creaking" when I stop and go. I called the mechanic and he said there is a break in period with this new rack and to give it one more week. Is this true or could there be a problem with the installation.

    2nd issue - This one is the kicker - I am having issues with what I would describe as a hesitation or a pause. When accelerating slowly or when keeping it at about 25-30mph it seems like it hesitates or just doesn't want to go. If I give it gas it will "push" right through it. It almost seems like it wants to stall but does not. This issue primarily happens when it is raining/snowing or there is moisture in the air but I have had it happen once or twice on dry days. It was the worst on a day when I was driving it during a snow storm. It did it all the way home but as long as I gave it the gas it would "push" right through it. The check engine light never comes on. The mechanic said this will be hard to trouble shoot since it is intermittent and we will need to take the wait and see approach. I just had a complete tune up ... spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, etc. The mechanic thought it could be a miss but I am still having the issue after new plugs/wires.

    Any thoughts on this?
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