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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    That doesnt sound good...but how much longer will the window still work with it loose like that?
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    sorry, couldnt help the title. i was wondering, on the doors of my explorer (93) there look to be what should be lights. are these actually lights or what? they havent ever came on since i bought it 7 years ago. are they decorative things, or should i get them fixed?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Don't know for sure on that vehicle, but many cars have reflectors on the door if you open the door at night and there is another car driving by....they see the reflector easily.
  • aarchdaleaarchdale Member Posts: 10
    I have been having problems with stalling on my 2006 Explorer since the end of Feb 2007.Car stalls without warning at any speed, low or high with resultant loss of power steering.Has been very scary and has been in to 2 dealerships for a total of 3 weeks to check codes.They cannot replicate problem which is very frustrating and am at the point where Ford do not believe me.This problem happens intermittently either 2 or 3 times the same day and then hundreds of miles without the problem reocurring.I am about to travel from NC to CA and have told Ford that I am basically a guinea pig for them, but they will not consider changing the car under lemon law.Problems started at about 18,000 miles I now have 22500 miles on the car.
    I contacted National Highway safety Administration yesterday and they told me that they now have a total of 4 2006 Ford Explorers reported with stalling problems.If anyone else out there has the same problem report it to them on 1 888327 4236
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I have a 2004 low mileage explorer, which also started stalling over a year ago. Took it to the dealer, who checked the error codes and replaced what effectively is the gas pedal positioner sensor (throttle position sensor?). I forget the official name of the part and would have to go look it up, but since this is all drive by wire, the gas pedal is connected to a an electronic sensor which determines how far the pedal is depressed. It then sends this signal to the computer, which electronically controls the fuel injectors. I had signed up for HelmInc online manuals and TSB's to download, and believe I saw a TSB in there for the exact problem.

    Now I have absolutely no idea whether this is your problem, as there are probably a hundred things that could cause stalling, and an intermittent problem is the worst to try and find/catch...and sometimes you have to start replacing what appears to be good parts, which the dealer may not want to do. The vehicle computers are very good now adays of recording the error conditions, so I'm not sure why they aren't at least getting to the right ballpark of where the problem is. Getting into the right area, they would then have a list of 3-5 things in prioritized list that are the likely failing components.

    What I might suggest, is that you buy a relatively inexpensive OBD-II code reader. You can pick them up for between 30 and 100 bucks, depending on functions...but you only need the most basic of functions which is reading the error codes. I bought one at PepBoys last year for about 75 bucks, which allows me to read the computer within minutes of any problem. I don't have to wait until I can schedule an appointment and get it to the dealership, plus I now know and see any error codes.

    Not sure I would knowingly want to take a failing vehicle cross country, but you might not have any other choice. Good luck.
  • aarchdaleaarchdale Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2006 Ford Explorer, same dangerous unpredictable stalling problem.
    Dealerships cannot diagnose, accident waiting to happen
  • aarchdaleaarchdale Member Posts: 10
    Thanks for the info, I am taking the Explorer in again today for the dealership to check codes, Ford maintain my car is not a lemon.
    I have no option but to keep car, is a lease model and have only had for 16 months, and I have to get back to CA.

    I cannot understand why they are prepared to let me drive an unsafe car and risk litigation....but then I suppose that is their judgement call.
    I am thinking about informing media to follow my case but not sure which direction that may lead
  • pnewbypnewby Member Posts: 277
    Is the problem on a V6 or V8? I haven't had the problem on my V8, but have had some downshift problems, which is a known problem, and I intend to have corrected. Other than that, my '06 is shaping up to be the best vehicle I've ever had. Good luck with yours, and keep us informed.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    It's no big deal, the 2000 Explorer 5.0L V8 runs smooth and strong, tires are ok, I run the standard Goodyear Wranglers. I drive over 100 on the way to and from work on the bridges between the cities, if traffic permits. I slow down at the end of the bridge (speed trap). That happens every day. I've been driving the same route the same way for 12 years. The Explorer never even works up a sweat, the temperature always runs normal. It just turned 140,000 miles and runs perfect, the only thing I don't like is that the computer has an electronic speed limiter in it, that cuts the power off to the engine at 110. I would run 120 if it would go that fast. The original shocks are great and the ride is very smooth and controlled. I only use full synthetic motor oil and synthetic motor oil filters. I plan to keep driving it to 2011 with over 200,000 miles and then trade it in for something more fuel efficient.
  • bturflybturfly Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 explorer with about 195000 miles, I use it for work so it does A LOT of offroading. I just had part of my drive shaft rebuilt. I was driving yesterday, stoped at a red light, then when the light was green, I hit the gas and my RPMs went up, but the car didnt go anywhere. I was a little low on tran fluid, but after adding more the problem persisted. When I put the car into gear I can hear it lock, and it will roll in whichever direction I have it (roll back when in R, roll forward when in D) but still wont go when I give it gas. I've been seeing a lot of posts about the torque converter, could this be my problem? Or does it sound like I need a new tranny? I've already replaced it once when the car was about 5 years old. Anyone have any suggestions?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You replaced the tranny when the vehicle was 5 years old, but now the vehicle is 12 years old with a transmission that is now 7 years old. It may be due for another one. You did not say what engine and transmission you have. You also did not state if it is 2 wheel drive, 4 wheel drive or all wheel drive. I can't remember all the options in 95, but it sounds like a tranny problem, the torque converter is part of the transmission. Has all maintainance been kept up? The most important thing for the life of the tranny is to be sure to flush the tranny fluid and change the tranny filter every 30,000 miles. 30K,60K,90K,120K,150K& 180K, have you had all those done? You should stick to the milage schedules services even if you have tranny work done or tranny replacements. As an example, if you had the tranny replaced at 5 years and the milage was 75,000 miles, you should still do the next tranny service at 90,000 miles and so on. Extra fluid changes, or more services won't hurt, but it's important to be consistent with services.
    The TWO most important things to do to make the tranny last the longest time is:
    1. KEEP IT CLEAN
    2. KEEP IT COOL
    Your next step is to visit a few good tranny shops and let them give you a diagosis and estimate. They can give you a price on a rebuild, if you need one. A few phone calls to them may help. You can also check online with jasper engine and transmissions, they sell quality rebuilt and warrantied transmissions, and can make arrangements for installation. Last resort is call junk yards for prices, some do installations, be sure to check the warranty, and check references to see if they stand behind their work.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • lobo_114lobo_114 Member Posts: 2
    I also have a problem with my ford Explorer 99. Driving on the freeway and RPM started going up and down 'til it finally died. Tried to turn it back on but would be shaking a lot ending up dying. Let it cool down for about 30 mins. and worked just fine. Took it to the mechanic and said it was the fuel pump. I replaced it, ran good for two weeks and the samething happened (oh, I forgot to the check engine light didn't turn on either case), let it cool for about an hour and ran fine again. I took it to a different mechanic and also says the fuel pump, should I try yet another mechanic just to be sure? I would not want to replace unnecessary parts again and again, any one has a comment or advise, please?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You should have a warranty on the fuel pump and labor done by the first mechanic. Take it back to him. He should warranty his work since you said it has only been 2 weeks. They should have given you at least a 3 month warrany. Check the paperwork for the warranty period and conditions.
  • lobo_114lobo_114 Member Posts: 2
    Yeah, I guess I can do that. I just wonder if it really is the fuel pump. Could it be any sensor, though the ignition light does work but doesn't turn on when this happens.
    Thanks for the advice
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I would assume that the first mechanic used some diagnostic skills when looking at your vehicle. He did not arrive at his conclusion going by just what you said, but what you said is a guide to him. I am sure he would have check the fuel pressure on the fuel rail to determine if it acutally was a lack of fuel causing your problem, and I would suppose he would have checked the fuel pump relay also. These are the things a mechanic would normally check. Your symtoms sound like the problem could be a bad fuel pump or a bad fuel pump relay. It is possible the the fuel pump he put in could be defective. I still think you should take it back to the first mechanic and let him check it. If you had other things or sensors that caused the problem, it would have thrown a code and lit the check engine light. The mechanic would have checked the codes to see where the problem was.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • jsimsjsims Member Posts: 3
    Hi!
    I am having the same problem, Were you able to solve it? Please let me know at jonahsims@yahoo.com

    Thanks,

    Jonah
  • bradgoetbradgoet Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: I've noticed a similar problem with my 98 explorer. It was very intermittent for almost a year. For about the past month it's been more regular and annoying. But today it suddenly stopped.

    I recently took it to the mechanic and he thinks it's an inner and outer tie rod problem. However, the repair will be more than $700 so I'm hesitant to do it. Does anybody know what this might be?
  • tiav8rtiav8r Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Explorer with 123,000 miles on it. Unpredictably, it will tend to sound like it's over-revving when I take my foot off the accelerator and coast. The funny thing is that it makes this strange "whizzing" noise like it's over-revving, but the tach drops when this happens. The only way to stop it is let it get below 40mph, or press on the accelerator. When you give it the gas, everything goes back to normal. This seems more prevalent if I'm pulling my small 5x8 trailer with my lawnmower on it. The last time this happened, I took note of the fact that there was a "clunking" sound, like something was disengaging and re-engaging. Could this be a torque converter issue?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You did not mention what engine or transmission you have.
    The torque convertor is part of the transmission. You have a transmission problem. There are one way "overrunning" clutches in the transmission that allow the transmission to "coast" in gear. The sound you hear may be coming from a defective overrunning clutch. The only way to tell is to have a professional transmission techinican diagnose the transmission. The repair would most likey require the removal and repair/rebuild the transmission. If it drives ok, you might be able to wait a while before it gets worse and needs repair. The only problem is that they can fail suddenly and leave you stuck on the side of the road. This happened to me with my old 91 Explorer, when the Overdrive overunning clutch went out. I would suggest that you get it looked at soon.
  • bopilotbopilot Member Posts: 8
    All of a sudden the headlights on my 98 Explorer dont work. All other lights, tail, turning,etc. work. I checked all fuses that are headlight identified and all are good. Anyone have a suggestion?

    Thanks,
    Steve
  • bopilotbopilot Member Posts: 8
    Thanks to Ed and Kiawah for the quick help. I just now got back on line aftr a health problem and see your suggestions. I will look into the trailer add on first. However, now my headlights dont work all of a sudden. All other lights work including front cornerlamps and foglamps. Go figure. All this started after I replaced the column ring circuit?? Did I do something wrong while installing it? A bit of a chore but I thought I did it right.

    Steve
  • bopilotbopilot Member Posts: 8
    I just checked the trailer connection. All is OK. Opened upthe top tailgate light and it is an LED with a resistor to drop the voltage. It still flickers when all ignition is off. And I still get no headlights now. I am pulling my hair out.
  • chadp1chadp1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 explorer xlt and the rear window shattered while closing it today. Any advice on replacement. Should there be used ones available? ( if so, what should i look to pay) or should i run through the insurance?
    Thanks
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Save the Hair! The problem is in the COLUMN, the headlight circuit runs through the MULTI-FUNCTION switch, the switch that has the stalk on the left side and operates the turnsignals, headlights, wipers and hazard flashers. When you pull back on the stalk, the headlights should come on. If not, then there is a problem in the multifunction switch or it's connections. It is common for the multi-functions switches to go bad. It is very easy to replace, I replaced one on my 1997 Explorer, costs about $65 for the part and only took about a 1/2 to replace. You don't have to take the steering wheel off, just the plastic cover that goes around the column, then there are 2 screws that unscrew from the side, and the thing comes off, unplug the 2 wire connectors. You can plug the connectors back in to be sure they are tight and test the unit and headlights again while the unit is hanging loose. If the headlights wont come on, even after wiggling the unit, the unit is probably bad. If you have a tilting steering column, you will need to uscrew the lever out of the column to get the MF switch off.
    What is this COLUMN RING CIRCUIT that you mentioned? I never heard of such a thing. Whatever it is, it COULD have affected the headlight circuit, since the headlight circuit goes through the column and the multi-function switch.
    Good Luck
    E.D. ISF
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    The "top tailgate light" do you mean the center high mounted brake light? If so, does it flicker by itself or do the other brake lights flicker with it. It gets it's power through the switch on the brake pedal, that would be the first thing to check.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • jsimsjsims Member Posts: 3
    I have looked everywhere to see how I can quiet down my rear tailgate and I just can't find the problem. The noise is driving me crazy, any suggestions?

    Thanks,

    Jonah
  • bturflybturfly Member Posts: 2
    This may sound obvious, but have you checked the actual lights? I had a headlight and both my taillights go out at the same time on my 95 explorer, I thought it was a fuse... but it turned out that they actually just burnt out at the same time. Huge coincidence, but replacing the light fixed the problem.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    turned out that they actually just burnt out at the same time. Huge coincidence

    That is quite an amazing coincidence. It's possible there is some other unseen factor here that stacked the odds - like a spurious voltage fluctuation or some such thing.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • kinney201kinney201 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    For about a month now, my check engine light has been coming on and off every few days. Each time, I pull the P0153 code = O2 Sensor CKT Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1). Does this mean it the O2 sensor needs to be replaced? If so, can anyone give details about where to find it? Is it easy to replace? Anyone have pictures of its location? Thanks in advance!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Bank 1 is the side of the engine which has the #1 cylinder. Don't know for a Ford, but for my Chevy Sub which has the engine front to back, that is the drivers side. Therefore Bank 2 (in the case of Chevy) is the passengers side. If you follow the enhaust pipe down after coming off the engine exhaust manifold, at some point you will see an Oxygen sensor sticking into the exhaust pipe. The first one on the pipe will be sensor 1, and will be 'before' the catalytic converter. There would be another sensor (#2) 'after' the converter. The O2 sensors will have a set of wires on them that connect back to the engine computer.
  • ericnorthericnorth Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 explorer that the 4 wheel drive lights flash every now and then and then the windows wont operate. It comes and goes but seems to be getting consistantly worse. Any ideas
    Thanks
  • chandykchandyk Member Posts: 17
    99 Explorer, all maintenance up to date, 78K miles.

    I need some help settling a dispute with air-conditioning.

    Does MAX A/C use more gas than regular A/C?? Is this just an old school tale, or is it true?

    Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Max a/c typically does 2 things, it shuts a damper door which when open is drawing fresh air into the vehicle (hot air that needs cooled), and cranks the circulating fan speed up a notch.

    Neither of those would make a material difference in MPG. One might argue that the fan running at a higher speed is drawing more current, thereby the alternator is consuming HP that could have been delivered to the wheels. One might also argue that recirculating the cooler air (as opposed to bringing in fresh air) keeps the cabin cooler, making you more comfortable and willing to stay in the car longer, thereby making you less likely to speed, thereby reducing the wind resistance, which is driving up your MPG. No material difference is the right answer.
  • jefferygjefferyg Member Posts: 418
    Kiawah, I like your logic. But on some older vehicles (maybe newer ones too) doesn't the compressor run continuously on Max? If so, then that saps a few horses and would in theory use slightly more gas. However, on larger vehicles with bigger V6 and V8 engines it doesn't seem that it would have as much effect as on say a 1.6 liter 4 cyl. I would think the difference would be negligible on an Explorer.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Not that I've personally seen. Typically the compressor is told to cycle, based upon the pressure switches in the system. Compressor builds up the high side to high pressure and disengages. Pressure begins to drop (and equalize) as freon moves thru the system. When pressure drops to certain point, compressor is told to engage again.
  • chandykchandyk Member Posts: 17
    Thanks much to both of you for the fast answer.
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    Kiawah, sounds like you are fairly knowledgeable about automotive A/C systems. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but I've never really understood how A/C works. My wife has a '96 Explorer, and about a year ago I noticed that the A/C was not as cold as it used to be, and I also noticed the compressor was cycling on and off every 6 to 8 seconds. I mentioned this to my mechanic (whose ability I trust immensely). He added freon, but mentioned nothing about how frequently the compressor was cycling. Until recently, the A/C worked great, but there was no change in the compressor cycling on and off. Over the last month or two the duct output has become warmer, and now it's hardly cooling at all, and the compressor is cycling on and even more frequently (every 2-3 seconds). I assume there is a freon leak somewhere, but should the compressor be cycling on and off so frequently? Is it likely the two problems are related, and if yes, why did the A/C work fine for the last year even thought the compressor was cycling so rapidly? Any insight would be appreciated.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I don't know whether the two problems are related but the rapid cycling suggests a problem with the thermostat. Anyone else have ideas?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • fabulousjlfabulousjl Member Posts: 6
    my 1999 ford explorer won't start, we replaced the fuel pump..
    we have fuel pressure in the fuel rails, but the pump works but theres absolutely no fuel getting to the cylinder

    the spark plugs do have spark, but they are completely dry when pulled...

    it won't start

    i am thinking something with the ECU that isnt telling the injectors to fire...

    any help?
  • fabulousjlfabulousjl Member Posts: 6
    with my above indications of my explorer not being able to start...

    i have done a little a bit of research..

    and is it possible my camshaft position sensor is bad..

    causing my timing to be off not lettin the injectors to fire at the right time?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I am by no means an expert on a/c, just mechanically and electrically inclined, and have worked on everything that has failed over the years on all of our vehicles.

    Basically as I understand what is happening with air-conditioning freon circuit, is that there are 4 pieces...and you can draw them in a circuit on paper. The compressor (the piece that is driven by the belt of the engine), takes low pressure freon gas and compresses it to high pressure freon gas. That gas then passes thru the condenser (the radiator like fin device that is in front of the regular vehicle radiator). That condenser releases heat to the air, and when freon looses heat it changes state and becomes liquid, which is still high pressure. This liquid freon then goes thru a small orifice, which restricts the flow of the freon. This restriction is what allows the pressure differential between the low side pressure and the high side pressure. So on the input of the orifice is high pressure liquid, on the output side is the low pressure liquid. I'll explain why is is low pressure in a bit. That liquid freon then goes to the evaporator which is inside the car in the ductwork, and that evaporator absorbs heat out of cabin air. When freon warms it changes state to gas, and that gas vapor goes back to the input of the compressor. That's it, one closed loop system with 4 pieces.

    Now the reason there is low pressure on the output of the orifice is two reasons. First, the compressor is pulling a vaccuum on that side, and the second is there is the restriction of the orifice. If the orifice was wide open, the compressor would just freely move the freon around and everything would be at the same pressure. With a small orifice, it restricts the ability of the liquid to get over to the evaporator. The liquid changes state to gas more efficiently when it is low pressure. Too much pressure (blockage in the orifice, or not enough freon in the system), and there is not enough flow. Too little pressure (compressor not strong enough, or too much freon in the system), and there is not enough pressure for flow. If there is no pressure differential across the orifice, there is little flow. If there is a large differential across the orifice, there is a lot of freon flow. The system is built and sized for a specific flow, so you need the right pressures, and the right sized orifice. An analogy would be blowing up a balloon (the compressors job), and then the orifice is the small neck of the balloon which you are holding almost shut. The air in the balloon (well actually now the liquid freon), will come out in a controlled flow.

    These systems are sized to work efficiently. Think of the compressor cycling building up pressure, and the orifice slowly releasing it....working together as a pair. Think of the evaporator coils absorbing heat, and the condenser coils releasing heat, both working together as a pair.

    As mentioned in previous post, it is typically two pressure switches monitoring both the high side pressure and the low side pressure, which manage and control the system.

    Too low pressure as a minimum, and the compressor won't run at all because it doesn't think there's enough freon in the system, and the compressor needs the oil in the freon as a lubricant. Low pressure switch sensing too high of a pressure, turns the compressor on. Too high of pressure and it turns the compressor off.

    Now again, I'm not an expert here, but if I remember correctly if it is cycling too fast it can be caused by a couple situations. First, is that the system is overcharged (too much freon). There is not enough 'space' in the tubing for the gas to compress, and therefore the compressor quickly achieves max pressure before being able to pull down the low side. Secondly, is that the orifice has a blockage, and isn't letting the freon liquid to move from the high side liquid to the low side liquid.

    The system really is balanced (or should be balanced), and you don't want to arbitrarily add more freon unless there really isn't enough in there. That is a very common fix however, because the normal a/c problem is a leak somewhere
    where you loose freon (usually gas, because gas is underpressure, whereas the liquid is less pressurized).

    So when I work on a/c there are two gauges that are used, one is monitoring the pressure on the high side, and one is monitoring pressure on the low side. In a steady state without the compressor running and the circuit is allowed to reach equilibrium, it is pressurized at what you can think of as an 'average' pressure. Once the compressor starts and the orifice restricts the flow, that average pressure that is in the tubes goes up on the high side, and down on the low side.

    The one remaining piece of info, is that you need airflow across both the condenser and evaporator for the system to be efficient and transfer heat. The condenser in the front of the car gets the outdoor air from the car movement and/or radiator fans. The evaporator inside the car gets it's air movement across it from the inside ductwork fan.

    On my vehicles over the years have been 2 vehicles w/compressor failures, and a number of leaks.

    Hope this helps.
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    Great explanation, Kiawah, thanks so much! Sounds like we've had a clogged orefice the entire time, plus a slow freon leak that needs a charge every year or so. What does the orefice usually get clogged with? Is it relatively easy to remove the clog?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Well again, I just only have some hands on practical experiences w/AC.....and you don't know for certain that is your problem. If I were in your shoes without gauges, I would be taking it to someplace who knows and does AC work, not a general shop.

    I've personally never had an orifice blockage, but I would only speculate that there might be some metal filings from a compressor going bad, I believe I remember reading somewhere that if humidity or liquid gets in the line (because it was open to the atmosphere at some point), that you can get ice crystals. I don't know if that is possible or not, and would think that IF that was possible you'd have symptoms where it might work first thing when turned on after everything was at 'room temperature and pressure'...but overtime would then clog up.

    Trying to answer your post, reminded me that I had a service manual in the closet for my old Suburban. In getting that out and looking at the AC section, I am reminded that the orifice actually has a resevoir with it for the freon liquid on the high side pressure (ie. the balloon) and is called an accumulator (at least in GM lingo). There are like 5 pages of diagnostic flow charts, and I'll pick a couple tidbits.

    Install Gage set and check compressor cycling pressure. Compressor should cycle on at 41-51 psi, and cycle off at 20-28 psi. Most of the boxes on that page deal with then checking and changing the pressure switches. My note: this reference would be talking to pressure on the low side. If the pressure starts to raise up too high, you turn on the ocmpressor which pulls a vaccuum and brings the pressure back down.

    another tidbit example referencing clutch cycling: More than 8 clutch cycles per minute....recover system and check for plugged orifice, repair as required, evacuate the system , and charge. 8 or less clutch cycles per minute, feel inlet and outlet pipes. Inlet pipe colder than outlet pipe, add one lb of refrigerant. inlet and outlet same temperature or outlet colder than inlet....ok.

    I'd recommend getting it to an AC guy with the gauges and the specs for your vehicle. The pressures I just referenced were for my year, make, model....and I have absolutely no idea whether they are even close to what yours should have.
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    Thanks so much again for taking the time to give a detailed response...sincerely appreciated. I was thinking just as you suggested...as much as I completely trust my mechanic, he is a "general shop" and not an A/C specialist.
  • fabulousjlfabulousjl Member Posts: 6
    My 1999 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0L SOHC won't start...
    replaced the fuel pump because signs of bad fuel pressure..
    still won't start..
    theres no fuel bein delivered to the cylinders, like the injectors arent spraying..

    went to NAPA and the guy working had the same problem but in his 1998 Ford Ranger.. he said it was the crank sensor... so i bought that and replaced it... but still same ol same ol... still won't start

    so i'm running out of ideas and getting ready to take it somewhere... but i would rather not take it some where.. if i can fix it myself..

    so anyone have any ideas?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Did you have the computer read, and are there any error codes? You should check that before throwing a bunch of parts into it.
  • fabulousjlfabulousjl Member Posts: 6
    well im goin to school for automotive.. i start in august
    and one of my friends has a lower end computer reader..
    and that didn't pick up any trouble codes
  • shaigshaig Member Posts: 14
    Yesterday evening my wife was in the vehicle, waiting for a car to exit a steep single lane driveway. When she took her foot off the brakes, all the warning lights on the console came on and the brakes went out completely from that point on. :sick:

    Luckily the driveway leads to a large area that abuts a grassy field so she was able to stop the car. After turning the vehicle off and restarting it, it seemed fine. Nonetheless the vehicle was towed and is currently in the shop for diagnostics.

    I asked if the car had stalled, but she asserted not. She did not lose the A/C or power steering. I am currently waiting to hear from the service dept. The vehicle has been regularly serviced and has never had any issues before. Has anyone ever experienced this?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The brakes are hydraulic, not electrical.....so even a power problem would not have interferred in her stopping. The motor could have almost stalled loosing vaccuum boost to brakes, but all that means is she just needed to press harder.

    Do a test, drive down a deserted road or parking lot and turn the key off (without locking the steering wheel of course). Then apply the brakes.

    I suspect the car was idling very low or almost stalling, reducing the power boost, and your wife didn't push on the brakes hard enough.
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    Was the fuel so low and the angle of the vehicle such that the engine was stalled due to lack of fuel? I had two Fords in the past that would stall on steep inclines with a 1/4 tank or less because the fuel pickup in the gas tank wasn't located where the fuel was.
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