Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I contacted National Highway safety Administration yesterday and they told me that they now have a total of 4 2006 Ford Explorers reported with stalling problems.If anyone else out there has the same problem report it to them on 1 888327 4236
Now I have absolutely no idea whether this is your problem, as there are probably a hundred things that could cause stalling, and an intermittent problem is the worst to try and find/catch...and sometimes you have to start replacing what appears to be good parts, which the dealer may not want to do. The vehicle computers are very good now adays of recording the error conditions, so I'm not sure why they aren't at least getting to the right ballpark of where the problem is. Getting into the right area, they would then have a list of 3-5 things in prioritized list that are the likely failing components.
What I might suggest, is that you buy a relatively inexpensive OBD-II code reader. You can pick them up for between 30 and 100 bucks, depending on functions...but you only need the most basic of functions which is reading the error codes. I bought one at PepBoys last year for about 75 bucks, which allows me to read the computer within minutes of any problem. I don't have to wait until I can schedule an appointment and get it to the dealership, plus I now know and see any error codes.
Not sure I would knowingly want to take a failing vehicle cross country, but you might not have any other choice. Good luck.
Dealerships cannot diagnose, accident waiting to happen
I have no option but to keep car, is a lease model and have only had for 16 months, and I have to get back to CA.
I cannot understand why they are prepared to let me drive an unsafe car and risk litigation....but then I suppose that is their judgement call.
I am thinking about informing media to follow my case but not sure which direction that may lead
The TWO most important things to do to make the tranny last the longest time is:
1. KEEP IT CLEAN
2. KEEP IT COOL
Your next step is to visit a few good tranny shops and let them give you a diagosis and estimate. They can give you a price on a rebuild, if you need one. A few phone calls to them may help. You can also check online with jasper engine and transmissions, they sell quality rebuilt and warrantied transmissions, and can make arrangements for installation. Last resort is call junk yards for prices, some do installations, be sure to check the warranty, and check references to see if they stand behind their work.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Thanks for the advice
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
I am having the same problem, Were you able to solve it? Please let me know at jonahsims@yahoo.com
Thanks,
Jonah
I recently took it to the mechanic and he thinks it's an inner and outer tie rod problem. However, the repair will be more than $700 so I'm hesitant to do it. Does anybody know what this might be?
The torque convertor is part of the transmission. You have a transmission problem. There are one way "overrunning" clutches in the transmission that allow the transmission to "coast" in gear. The sound you hear may be coming from a defective overrunning clutch. The only way to tell is to have a professional transmission techinican diagnose the transmission. The repair would most likey require the removal and repair/rebuild the transmission. If it drives ok, you might be able to wait a while before it gets worse and needs repair. The only problem is that they can fail suddenly and leave you stuck on the side of the road. This happened to me with my old 91 Explorer, when the Overdrive overunning clutch went out. I would suggest that you get it looked at soon.
Thanks,
Steve
Steve
Thanks
What is this COLUMN RING CIRCUIT that you mentioned? I never heard of such a thing. Whatever it is, it COULD have affected the headlight circuit, since the headlight circuit goes through the column and the multi-function switch.
Good Luck
E.D. ISF
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Thanks,
Jonah
That is quite an amazing coincidence. It's possible there is some other unseen factor here that stacked the odds - like a spurious voltage fluctuation or some such thing.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
For about a month now, my check engine light has been coming on and off every few days. Each time, I pull the P0153 code = O2 Sensor CKT Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1). Does this mean it the O2 sensor needs to be replaced? If so, can anyone give details about where to find it? Is it easy to replace? Anyone have pictures of its location? Thanks in advance!
Thanks
I need some help settling a dispute with air-conditioning.
Does MAX A/C use more gas than regular A/C?? Is this just an old school tale, or is it true?
Thanks.
Neither of those would make a material difference in MPG. One might argue that the fan running at a higher speed is drawing more current, thereby the alternator is consuming HP that could have been delivered to the wheels. One might also argue that recirculating the cooler air (as opposed to bringing in fresh air) keeps the cabin cooler, making you more comfortable and willing to stay in the car longer, thereby making you less likely to speed, thereby reducing the wind resistance, which is driving up your MPG. No material difference is the right answer.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
we have fuel pressure in the fuel rails, but the pump works but theres absolutely no fuel getting to the cylinder
the spark plugs do have spark, but they are completely dry when pulled...
it won't start
i am thinking something with the ECU that isnt telling the injectors to fire...
any help?
i have done a little a bit of research..
and is it possible my camshaft position sensor is bad..
causing my timing to be off not lettin the injectors to fire at the right time?
Basically as I understand what is happening with air-conditioning freon circuit, is that there are 4 pieces...and you can draw them in a circuit on paper. The compressor (the piece that is driven by the belt of the engine), takes low pressure freon gas and compresses it to high pressure freon gas. That gas then passes thru the condenser (the radiator like fin device that is in front of the regular vehicle radiator). That condenser releases heat to the air, and when freon looses heat it changes state and becomes liquid, which is still high pressure. This liquid freon then goes thru a small orifice, which restricts the flow of the freon. This restriction is what allows the pressure differential between the low side pressure and the high side pressure. So on the input of the orifice is high pressure liquid, on the output side is the low pressure liquid. I'll explain why is is low pressure in a bit. That liquid freon then goes to the evaporator which is inside the car in the ductwork, and that evaporator absorbs heat out of cabin air. When freon warms it changes state to gas, and that gas vapor goes back to the input of the compressor. That's it, one closed loop system with 4 pieces.
Now the reason there is low pressure on the output of the orifice is two reasons. First, the compressor is pulling a vaccuum on that side, and the second is there is the restriction of the orifice. If the orifice was wide open, the compressor would just freely move the freon around and everything would be at the same pressure. With a small orifice, it restricts the ability of the liquid to get over to the evaporator. The liquid changes state to gas more efficiently when it is low pressure. Too much pressure (blockage in the orifice, or not enough freon in the system), and there is not enough flow. Too little pressure (compressor not strong enough, or too much freon in the system), and there is not enough pressure for flow. If there is no pressure differential across the orifice, there is little flow. If there is a large differential across the orifice, there is a lot of freon flow. The system is built and sized for a specific flow, so you need the right pressures, and the right sized orifice. An analogy would be blowing up a balloon (the compressors job), and then the orifice is the small neck of the balloon which you are holding almost shut. The air in the balloon (well actually now the liquid freon), will come out in a controlled flow.
These systems are sized to work efficiently. Think of the compressor cycling building up pressure, and the orifice slowly releasing it....working together as a pair. Think of the evaporator coils absorbing heat, and the condenser coils releasing heat, both working together as a pair.
As mentioned in previous post, it is typically two pressure switches monitoring both the high side pressure and the low side pressure, which manage and control the system.
Too low pressure as a minimum, and the compressor won't run at all because it doesn't think there's enough freon in the system, and the compressor needs the oil in the freon as a lubricant. Low pressure switch sensing too high of a pressure, turns the compressor on. Too high of pressure and it turns the compressor off.
Now again, I'm not an expert here, but if I remember correctly if it is cycling too fast it can be caused by a couple situations. First, is that the system is overcharged (too much freon). There is not enough 'space' in the tubing for the gas to compress, and therefore the compressor quickly achieves max pressure before being able to pull down the low side. Secondly, is that the orifice has a blockage, and isn't letting the freon liquid to move from the high side liquid to the low side liquid.
The system really is balanced (or should be balanced), and you don't want to arbitrarily add more freon unless there really isn't enough in there. That is a very common fix however, because the normal a/c problem is a leak somewhere
where you loose freon (usually gas, because gas is underpressure, whereas the liquid is less pressurized).
So when I work on a/c there are two gauges that are used, one is monitoring the pressure on the high side, and one is monitoring pressure on the low side. In a steady state without the compressor running and the circuit is allowed to reach equilibrium, it is pressurized at what you can think of as an 'average' pressure. Once the compressor starts and the orifice restricts the flow, that average pressure that is in the tubes goes up on the high side, and down on the low side.
The one remaining piece of info, is that you need airflow across both the condenser and evaporator for the system to be efficient and transfer heat. The condenser in the front of the car gets the outdoor air from the car movement and/or radiator fans. The evaporator inside the car gets it's air movement across it from the inside ductwork fan.
On my vehicles over the years have been 2 vehicles w/compressor failures, and a number of leaks.
Hope this helps.
I've personally never had an orifice blockage, but I would only speculate that there might be some metal filings from a compressor going bad, I believe I remember reading somewhere that if humidity or liquid gets in the line (because it was open to the atmosphere at some point), that you can get ice crystals. I don't know if that is possible or not, and would think that IF that was possible you'd have symptoms where it might work first thing when turned on after everything was at 'room temperature and pressure'...but overtime would then clog up.
Trying to answer your post, reminded me that I had a service manual in the closet for my old Suburban. In getting that out and looking at the AC section, I am reminded that the orifice actually has a resevoir with it for the freon liquid on the high side pressure (ie. the balloon) and is called an accumulator (at least in GM lingo). There are like 5 pages of diagnostic flow charts, and I'll pick a couple tidbits.
Install Gage set and check compressor cycling pressure. Compressor should cycle on at 41-51 psi, and cycle off at 20-28 psi. Most of the boxes on that page deal with then checking and changing the pressure switches. My note: this reference would be talking to pressure on the low side. If the pressure starts to raise up too high, you turn on the ocmpressor which pulls a vaccuum and brings the pressure back down.
another tidbit example referencing clutch cycling: More than 8 clutch cycles per minute....recover system and check for plugged orifice, repair as required, evacuate the system , and charge. 8 or less clutch cycles per minute, feel inlet and outlet pipes. Inlet pipe colder than outlet pipe, add one lb of refrigerant. inlet and outlet same temperature or outlet colder than inlet....ok.
I'd recommend getting it to an AC guy with the gauges and the specs for your vehicle. The pressures I just referenced were for my year, make, model....and I have absolutely no idea whether they are even close to what yours should have.
replaced the fuel pump because signs of bad fuel pressure..
still won't start..
theres no fuel bein delivered to the cylinders, like the injectors arent spraying..
went to NAPA and the guy working had the same problem but in his 1998 Ford Ranger.. he said it was the crank sensor... so i bought that and replaced it... but still same ol same ol... still won't start
so i'm running out of ideas and getting ready to take it somewhere... but i would rather not take it some where.. if i can fix it myself..
so anyone have any ideas?
and one of my friends has a lower end computer reader..
and that didn't pick up any trouble codes
Luckily the driveway leads to a large area that abuts a grassy field so she was able to stop the car. After turning the vehicle off and restarting it, it seemed fine. Nonetheless the vehicle was towed and is currently in the shop for diagnostics.
I asked if the car had stalled, but she asserted not. She did not lose the A/C or power steering. I am currently waiting to hear from the service dept. The vehicle has been regularly serviced and has never had any issues before. Has anyone ever experienced this?
Do a test, drive down a deserted road or parking lot and turn the key off (without locking the steering wheel of course). Then apply the brakes.
I suspect the car was idling very low or almost stalling, reducing the power boost, and your wife didn't push on the brakes hard enough.