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Comments
Driver's front speaker no longer makes a sound. Took it to Best Buy, the speaker is fine. They claim its something with the radio.
Anything I can do? Potential cost of the repair?
Thanks!
2002 limited with 75,000 miles
any idea what this might be / what this might cost me?
is this a dealer only repair or can maybe my local mechanic take a look?
I do not move my 07 Explorer much now and it only has 2000 miles on it, however, this is already my 5th month of ownership. My dealer keeps reminding me of the 5000 mile maintenance, but my mileage is way under that now. What would you suggest?
I plan to get the first maintenance done in the 6th month and all I plan to do is to change the oil. My dealer told me they recommend a maintenance plan that would cost me $170 minimum every time of maintenance, which includes a comprehensive check-up on top of the oil change. Should I go with what my dealer suggests or should I just change oil until 15000?
Thanks.
But, if it were me, I'd wait 12 months before changing the oil. :shades:
Dealers make a lot of money on service visits, so beware of upsells you may not need.
they did but my chick played with something, i had racv come look at it, they couldnt explain it, im getting it looked at tomorrow if you have any ideas give us a holla
Any ideas?
The fuel pump is newer so i dont see why that would go out so soon.
Do you have ignition to the spark plugs? Pull off a spark plug wire and check to see if you have good spark.
If you have good spark at all the plugs, then the next thing to check is fuel pressure. Check to see if you have fuel pressure on the fuel rail. There should be a valve on it like a tire valve, if you remove the cap and depress the core slightly, fuel should shoot out into your shop towel. Be careful to not start a fire when checking this. If you think the fuel pressure may be low, you can check it with a fuel pressure guage, the fuel pressure should read about 35 to 45 lbs with key on, engine off, and 30 to 35 lbs with engine idling.
If you have spark and fuel in the rail. it may be possible that the computer shut of the fuel injectors, I have seen some security systems do this, they will usually display some type of security warning light on the dash if this happens.
Let us know what you find.
Sometimes I hate electronics...
It sounds like you have a loose connection somewhere.
If it didn't start before, it may not start again at some point in time.
Check your wiring and connectors to be sure all the connections are clean and tight.
Thanks!
Personally, I hate the Ford 6 speed transmission that is in the current Explorer. I've been fighting to make one work right in two of them, an 06 and an 07. But - other than that, the trucks are awesome. And I realize that they're machines, and stuff breaks on all of them.
The Pilot may be indeed better overall - but I just don't like the feel of them. They're such a tall Accord. Anyway, that's how I feel.
Has anyone had a similar experience? What was the final diagnosis and how much did it cost to fix it?
Since nothing is dim or has been dimming, and seemingly "all" of the other electrical components are working, I can't figure out if it really is an alternator problem. Any suggestions?
thanks
Thanks,
Bioman
Can a DIY'er do this or does it require special tools and procedures? Fortunately, I had not drained the coolant. Did I overlook something? The manual only says to add coolant at the bottle.
Called the dealer service dept and they said they remove the top radiator hose and pump out the coolant and replace it using their equipment. He could not tell me how to do it without this special equipment. For 50 yrs I have been able to simply change coolant in cars, but maybe this is a casualty of newer vehicle technology.
Has anyone actually changed the coolant in their garage on this or a similar Explorer?
The pressure bottle is safer, less likely to burn you. Personally, I don't like them either, and don't trust them, but amazingly, they do seem to work and hold up well. Just one more thing to explode IMO, but as I said, they are quite common now.
It looks like I could drain the coolant and refill thru the recovery bottle. There is about a 1" dia hose from the bottom of the bottle to the bottom of the radiator and a small overflow hose to the top of the radiator. The small hose goes into the radiator just above the top radiator hose. So, I should be able to refill thru the bottle and the overflow hose should be a vent for trapped air as the radiator fills. Looks like if the Exp is on level ground, I could fill up to the cold mark in the bottle, then run the engine and recheck after cooling down.
Please advise your thoughts on this method. Looks like this would be easier than removing the top radiator hose. The local dealer wants $118 to flush and refill. I realize this method does not flush the system, but I have had a bad experience with flushing in the past. It caused a heater core leak on an earlier vehicle.
One question came to mind. If I need to add more full strength to get to the right concentration, looks like I would need to drain the mixture until well below the bottom of the water bottle, then increase amount of full strength on refilling.
Maybe a dumb question, but it looks like the coolant in the bottle doesn't get mixed with the rest, but is maintained at the level that is in the radiator and engine?
Well, that's why I run the engine with the hose in and the petcock open until it runs clear - THEN I add full strength coolant, and "guess" it to be about 50/50 at that point. Is that what you did?