Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

1117118120122123125

Comments

  • mprice214mprice214 Member Posts: 1
    Hi movieguns,

    I was searching for this problem on the web and came across this posting. I am having the same problem and am wondering if you ever were able to determine the problem.

    Thanks.
  • dlw4dlw4 Member Posts: 2
    I had exactly the same problem with my '99 Explorer. This is very common on the Explorers from that era. The wire bundle that runs into the front of the drivers door has a lot of wires in it and they must bend very sharply every time you open & close the door. Your can take the rubber boot loose that covers the wires and you will likely find the power wire for the windows is broken. I just put a splicer on mine and it's been fine for over a year now.
  • holland4holland4 Member Posts: 1
    2005 Explorer with 105,000. MEssage center flashes "Check Charging System" with a tone and the battery icon lights for just a second. Started doing this once every couple of days, then every day and now multitimes when I drive it. Started during acceleration over 3000 RPM and now any thing over 2000 RPM just cruising on flat highway. The lights don't dim, the volt meter does not drop and the A/C seems to function fine. Alternator going bad or Battery?
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,253
    went in for 85k oil change/tire rotation. they told me it need both rear wheel bearings replaced. how do i tell? i haven't noticed any noises other than sometimes the read axle whines at times. i think it was just a slow day for the mechanics.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    It's your alternator, I would change it quickly.
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Member Posts: 245
    few months ago i had a tire that lost air, i pumped nit up was good for a couple of days and lost air again. brought it to where i purchased the tires, they found nothing wrong, replaced the stem and all was well until now, about 7 months later.

    they tell me the rim is rusting form the inside out. its a 2002 with the optional chrome wheels. they said i would need to find someone who can recoat the inside of the wheel. ive never needed to do something like this. any help would be appreciated.
  • egyptgerryegyptgerry Member Posts: 22
    I had the same problem a few years ago with a explorer,So had a tyre fitter remove the lyres,then i just wire or steel wooled the inside of the rims,you can do it with a sanding disc,once you clear all the rust out and i dont think you will find a lot i just spray painted the inside edges of the rims and to make sure when the tyres where refitted at the garage i had some tubes fitted,Never had a problem since and the Guy i sold it to has never had a problem either,This is something you can do yourself over a weekend.Regards Gerry
  • gasburner1gasburner1 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 99 with the 5.0 L engine, 89K miles. Trans has been serviced and problem free. The last 10K I've noticed a slight "slip" when in OD and accelerating between ~ 40 to 55 mph, just below what is required to downshift. Anyone have this problem or ideas on cause? I'm thinking I'll just keep it out of OD unless I'm on the highway. Is this a sign of a major problem?
    I bought this truck new, and overall the truck has been very reliable, but I'm wondering if it is time to sell it.
  • jschmidt6jschmidt6 Member Posts: 1
    I have a coolant leak and it looks like it is coming out of the oil pan - Is that possible ? Somebody hinted to me that Ford may recirculate the coolant near the oil to help cool the engine. The hoses are all fine and the top of the engine is dry.

    Also - If the oil pan can be removed easily or does the transfer case need to be removed as well ?
  • egyptgerryegyptgerry Member Posts: 22
    Hi there,If you had coolant coming out of the oil pan then you would have a head gasket gone,But as you are driving the ford then 1 question comes to mind?have you been driving the ford with the aircon on max as some times ice will form on the pipe work and then melt and leave a pool on the floor,If it is not this then somewhere you have a hose or possibly a steel pipe that has a hole,Only way to find that would be to get the Ford onto a lift and really look for it,sorry i cant be of more help,Regards Gerry
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    If it hasn't been serviced with a power flush in the last 10,000 miles, I would have it done. IF that doesn't fix the problem, your strategy may be good. There is probably some wear going on, but it doesn't mean you're toast yet. It may run a long time like this if you are careful with it.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Easy solution for tire rims leaks:

    I have been doing the following proceedure to all my vehicles, all brands with all type tires for many years. I have never had a problem with slow leaks/rim leaks again.

    You need to do this with an air compressor and tire filling hose or near an air pump. It is best to roll the vehicle so that the tire valve stem is located at about the 9 o'clock or 3 o'clock position. This will allow you good working room for the proceedure.
    One tire at a time, SLOWLY & CAREFULLY remove the tire valve stem core with a valve stem core removal tool (cheap). HOLD ONTO the valve core very carefully so that it doesn't blow away, keep it in your hand, and let all the air come out of the tire. Then take a Large can of WD-40 spray oil or similar substance with the red plastic "straw" on it, stick the straw down about 2 inches down into the valve stem, HOLD the "straw" tightly so it doesn't fall down into the inside of the tire, and holding the WD-40 can upright, spray oil into the inside of the tire for about 20 to 30 seconds. Then remove the "straw" and reinsert the valve core firmly, and refill the tire with air to the correct tire pressure. Do this to all tires, then take it for a short drive to spread the film of oil around inside the tires and rims. This has worked perfect for me for at least 15 years, has had NO detrimental effect on the tires or rims, and the tire balance remains the same and the tires ride smooth. When new tires are put on, the "fresh" rubber usually seals very good, but as time goes by the rubber starts to harden and the rim can start to rust under the rubber and cause seepage. The oil will prevent the rust and form a perfect seal. I would usually do this when the tires are about halfway through their life and/or when I have to add air to the tires between oil changes (7,500 mile intervals). The tire pressure should drop no more that 4 pounds during this 7,500 mile interval, from 32 psi down to 28 psi. If it drops more than that, I add the spray oil to the tires, end of problem.
    Hope this helps.
    E.D. ISF
  • joshual1887joshual1887 Member Posts: 19
    was leaving work engine started and wan fine and performed well. about 15 miles later at a red light went to accelerate and had little performance. engine and truck immediatly became very shaky and hesitant sometimes engine dies. took to autozone ran codes and came out with misfire in cylinder # 2 and # 3. also fuel pressure low on bank 1 and 2. catylist defishency. replaced all spark plugs and wires everything gapped at .55 ive ruled out the coil pack because coil is the spark waste system and 2 and 3 dont run together. my next move was to have the fuel injectors cleaned and fuel filter replaced. any additional advice would be apreciated truck is a 1996 with 4.0 pushrod engine. personally im suspecting dirty fuel because i live in houston and ike just came through so maybe picked up some bad gas getting some trash in the injectors?
  • mshillmshill Member Posts: 3
    Don't rule out the solenoid pack in the transmission. You can read my plea for help, post 6102. I also live in Houston, but it wasn't bad gas. In my case the car is throwing about 15 codes. I was originally told the transmission codes were the result of whatever else was wrong. The problem has now been identified as the shift solenoid (stuck in 3rd gear), but there are 4 solenoids in the transmission, and they all must be changed. The transmission problem is what is causing all the other codes. I hate that car.
  • joshual1887joshual1887 Member Posts: 19
    turns out the wires to the coil pack were frayed and were shorting out thus throwing the codes. fuel injectors were fine but had them cleaned anyways. new fuel filter and went to a junkyard and gotta coil pack for $45 and included with it was an extra sensor pkug wires and clips with heat sheilds and the main bracket( didnt need any of it but what the hell) the only code its running now is an o2 sensor. also bought an obdII off ebay for $50. milade is back up to 17.7 and i feel for u with the transmission. i am on my 3rd. if u wanna rebuilt one for a reasonable price call greenleaf. they can find u one for about 800 and that comes with a 6 month warrenty. i can also recomend a good trans mechanic. he will install it for 250 and if it doesnt work he will either fix the trans or have another put in from greenleaf free of charge. i recomend him because if it has electrical problems (soloniods) he will get it working. my new one had problems in #2 soloniod it was extremely sluggish . im on month 6 without a compliant
  • prubboprubbo Member Posts: 1
    My shift broke off too. When you installed your original steering wheel on the 5L2Z-3C529-A, did it fit correctly? Was there enough length on the splined shaft to mount the steering wheel correctly?

    I received a used steering column from the junk yard. Everything looked the same as the original except the shaft only protruded out 1/4" while my original column's shaft protruded 3/4". There was not enough lenght on the shaft to mount the steering wheel. :mad:
  • paul7281paul7281 Member Posts: 8
    Hi prubbo, paul7281 here.
    My original steering column-part number was 4L2Z-3C529-DA, I replaced it with this part 5L2Z-3C529-A, and it was new from Ford out of the box. I don't know how much shaft protruded out of the column, but my original steering wheel did fit correctly. prubbo, you did not pull the steering column your self?? Do you know if it's out of a 2002-2004 Ford Explorer or Ford Mountaineer?? Did you see this part number 5L2Z-3C529-A, on the steering column or just on the junk yard invoice?? There is something suspect about the steering column you received. If you have a 2002 Ford Explorer this 5L2Z-3C529-A, steering column and your original steering wheel should fit! Go to your local ford parts dealer with the steering column and steering wheel and ask ford's part dealer why it will not fit? paul...
  • dlw4dlw4 Member Posts: 2
    Since winter is about upon us, the rear window defogger on my '99 Explorer has decided not to work. No light on the little switch when you push it, so I assume it's not working. Is there a fuse for this thing? My Chilton's book doesn't even mention the rear defogger, so not much help. Anyone?
  • fordsrus2fordsrus2 Member Posts: 3
    Paul7281...Fordsrus2 here...
    Any advice or tips on removing the shifter linkage from column on 96 ford explorer. I have a part somewhere on the shifter linkage rod broken and need to remove in order to repair...any advise would be appreciated...tx
  • fordsrus2fordsrus2 Member Posts: 3
    Any advice or tips on removing the shifter linkage from steering column on 96 ford explorer. I have a part somewhere on the shifter linkage rod broken and need to remove in order to repair...any advise would be appreciated...tx
  • edvanhaledvanhal Member Posts: 1
    I live in a cold winter climate. Owned since new 2002, last four years engine temperature indicates high, but not very good heat. When I bring it to the dealer he puts in the garage and checked the heater exit temperature and said it's OK. I can't go through another winter in it.

    I think the fan doesn't blow enough. Fan speed one is "barely anything", speed two "kinda something", speed three "barely something", speed four "blows, makes a lot of noise, some heat".

    Is there a heavy duty fan available?

    Thanks!
  • kstevenksteven Member Posts: 1
    hey lovelylu42 did u get ur problem fix i am having the same problem i have a 99 explorer an having the same problem did the same thing with the fuel pump also my injectors not opening.
  • fordsrus2fordsrus2 Member Posts: 3
    The fan switch itself may be your problem, as it controls the level of the fan speed. Regardless, it seems that it would have to be one of the two, fan speed swt or fan motor. However, I would think it's more likely the fan swt itself. I had an Explorer that had similar symptons and the fan swt itself turned out to be the problem. Again this is the actual swt that you are turning to set your fan speed. In reference to the noise that you hear at the highest setting, there may be something that's getting into your fan blades causing this, as I know leaves are sometime bad about working their way into the fan blades. Hope this reply helps, as it may at least give you a couple of things to consider....
  • jezimajezima Member Posts: 1
    I have an 05 explorer XLT with 35K miles and on Saturday I noticed that when I go to turn right or left at a low speed, there will be this grinding sound and shimmy in my rear end..What is it? And will this be an ongoing problem once it's fixed..should I just trade it in
  • jeddyboyjeddyboy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Ford Explorer with 23,000 miles. Anytime I get it over 55mph, there is a whistling noise while I am pressing the accelerator. Take my foot off the accelerator and it stops. We can't seem to figure out where it is coming from. Can anyone help!?
  • flagatflagat Member Posts: 1
    Will transmission fluid being sucked into the manifold cause the engine to surge and create a knocking sound in the intake manifold?
    Also, I have a '94 explorer and it's been surging. I was told by the good people at Auto Zone that it was my EGR valve, which I've replaced and still have the problem.
  • 1sttimeford1sttimeford Member Posts: 1
    I am having trouble with the driver's side door lock control that is mounted on the door. The rocker control will not lock or unlock the doors unless the engine is running. Key FOB and door key pad work fine anytime. Also, the puddle lamp on the driver's side no longer works (bulb is fine). The key warning chime continually sounds when the vehicle ignition is off, all doors are closed, and the key is still in the ignition slot. Any ideas? Are all these related?
  • dublincadublinca Member Posts: 1
    I recently changed all 4 brakes and resurfaced rotors at the Ford dealer in Livermore CA. After I pick the Explorer, ABS light comes on after driving for a few minutes and now the Cruise does not work also. I took it back the next business day to the Livermore dealer and told it will cost me $180.00 for some electrical switch that goes on the master cylinder. computer code: C1440 -- Pressure difference - Transducer Circuit failure.

    I never had any problem in my car related to ABS or Cruise Control and dealer says it not their fault... its a coincidence... I can't seem to buy that. Does anybody know which part is this and if I can replace it myself...Ford Part #. and or image??
  • Happy1125Happy1125 Member Posts: 1
    My truck is a standard I stalled out and could not start. If i bypass wires on the solenoid i can get it to start. Someone said it could be the neutral safety switch. Is there anyway i can get a diagram or find someway to locate where the problem might be. i thank you very much for any help possible
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Member Posts: 245
    2002 explorer.

    when it was a couple years old i noticed that when cold the driver side windshield wiper didn't seem to work well.
    took it to the dealer they replaced the wiper blade. helped a bit.

    now i notice if i pull in on the base of the washer arm, the whole units moves - i think this is why it doesnt wipe well (passenger side doesnt do this - it is tight).

    does anyone know if there is an easy way to tighten this up... maybe its as easy as tightening a bolt somewhere?

    thanks
  • mab5916mab5916 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Ford Explorer. The accessory plugs (cell chargers, GPS, chargers, etc.) have stopped working. Neither plug will work, front/rear.
    I checked the fuses under the dash and could not find any that needed replacing.
    Any suggestions or what specific fuse I should look at?
    Thanks
  • tulsahogtulsahog Member Posts: 64
    On a 2002 Explorer with 80k miles, when I turn right at very low speed, there is a slight vibration. It goes away as soon as wheel turned back toward center and not noticeable any other time.

    U-Joint or other problem?
  • Fordnomore1Fordnomore1 Member Posts: 3
    Trade it in while you can. This is only the beginning. I have a 2004. What you are experiencing is the rear wheel bearings going bad on you. The next will be the front wheel bearings. Each side will run you in the neighborhood of $260.00 ea. Then you will have the rear end go out on you which will cost you another $1500.00 in repairs that will not hold up.
  • Fordnomore1Fordnomore1 Member Posts: 3
    What you have is a front wheel bearing going out . Look at spending $260.00 for parts and labor. Most likely both sides will need repairing. This will double your cost of $260.00.
  • Fordnomore1Fordnomore1 Member Posts: 3
    What you have is a pinion ring bearing going bad in the rear end.. This usually happens between 36,000 and 75,000 miles on these poorly built explorers. It is a very common problem that Ford has known about ever since 2002, but they keep putting them out there. Repair will run you in the neighborhood of $1200.00 to $1500.00. It is only going to get worse. I am currently trying to get rid of my explorer for this reason not to forget all 4 wheel bearings, and other Ford problems with this vehicle. It does great up to 50,000 miles. After that , parts will start dieing on you.
  • tennessee01tennessee01 Member Posts: 2
    With brake pads (and shoes) you get what you pay for. I don't trust the shops for brake repairs and they usually charge rediculous prices for something that's relatively easy to do. I've always changed my own brakes and used to buy the lifetime warranty brakes from the auto parts which would wear out in about six months. Sure they give you a free set but who wants to do the labor (either yourself or paying to take it back to the shop)? I've learned to buy the best pads money can buy with or without warranty even if the auto parts has to special order them; and they usually outlast the vehicle. Sometimes they sound a little funny until they break in (maybe a month or so) because they have so much friction material. If you don't feel comfortable changing them yourself, buy the pads at the autoparts and take them with you to the mechanic; otherwise they will put the cheapest junk they can find on your vehicle and charge you premium price. You will then return soonafter for more brakes at your expense.
  • chrissymustangchrissymustang Member Posts: 5
    is the filter on the left hand side on the frame rail? Do I need to buy 2 tools? 1 to disconnect the fuel lines and 1 for the filter?
  • raerae24raerae24 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I am considering buying a 2003 Ford Explorer right now and when I took one home last night to test it for the day, I drove it at freeway and highway speeds and it did that swaying thing that you're talking about. Like it was uncontrollable...did you ever find out what caused that swaying? I'd be curious so that I know what kind of issue this vehicle has.

    Thanks! Rachel
  • tulsahogtulsahog Member Posts: 64
    Explorer has a power steering cooler and the hose that runs from the power steering fluid reservoir to the cooler is leaking at the reservoir hose clamp. A couple of weeks ago, I replaced the spring clamps with gear clamps and the leak stopped. Now it is seeping fluid again. The hose that goes from the reservoir to the power steering is not leaking.

    Thinking I need to replace the leaking hose this time (but not the other one). What I am wondering is if there could be a problem, like air in the hose, if I simply remove the hose and replace it. That would result in loss of some or all the fluid in the reservoir and the hose that is replaced. When I refill the reservoir would any trapped air cause problems. Is the reservoir pressurized? I could try filling the new hose with fluid but there still could be some trapped air. Don't want to cause any power steering issues.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    It's Junk. Don't buy it!
  • acunningham1acunningham1 Member Posts: 13
    I agree with electricdesign. Do not buy this 2003 Explorer. It already sounds like it has a major problem. Although Ford will not admit it, I have experienced and read a lot of posts concerning faulty transmissions in these Explorers. I have a 2005 Ford Explorer XLT I purchased new and my transmission needed replacing at 43,000 miles. You will be paying at least $2000 when it happens and sounds like there is obviously a problem with this vehicle now. Probably why the owner is getting rid of it. Any used vehicle you purchase, take it to a mechanic. You may have to pay to have it checked out but it could save you a lot of money or be sure to buy an extended warranty.
  • tulsahogtulsahog Member Posts: 64
    On a 2002 Explorer with 80k miles, 4 wheel drive did not work today going up a steep, icy driveway in 4x4 Auto. Selected 4x4 LO and HI, still no engagement. The instrument panel 4x4 light did not light when LO or HI buttons pushed. The 4x4 light does light momentarily when starting engine. It has stayed in the Auto position since new, except once or twice. It has been at least 4 yrs since 4x4 HI was used and then only for about 1 mile.

    Does this sound like a fuse, switches or shift solenoid? Any trouble shooting tips appreciated. I have an ohm and voltmeter.
  • tulsahogtulsahog Member Posts: 64
    A correction: The 4 x 4 LO light comes on momentarily when starting engine, but the 4x4 HI light does not come on.

    When selecting LO or HI, there is no clicking sound behind the glove box. Also, all 4x4 fuses are good. Disconnected neg term of battery for short time, but no effect when reconnected.

    Does this sound like the 4x4 module? Any way I can check or need to take to dealer?
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,253
    hey electricdesign, i know i used to see your posts, but this is the first one i have seen in a while.
    the poster you are responding to, has made only 1 post.
    they are a troll or a 'plant' who make a negative comment and does not post again. :mad:
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • icechoppericechopper Member Posts: 2
    My 96 Ford Explorer is making a loud tone (usually one pure pitch, occasionally two pitches) after about 5-15 minutes of driving. The tone has an abrupt onset and offset and lasts anywhere from 3 seconds to a minute. It seems independent of engine speed.

    It tends to happen more often when the outside temperature is below freezing, and when the temperature gauge is about 1/3 up in the normal range.

    The tone is very loud and seems to come from the front of the car under the hood.

    Does anyone know what this might be?
    Thanks.
  • coach1960coach1960 Member Posts: 1
    i am trying to replace the belt on my 94 explorer. how do i release the tension arm to swing it around to but the belt on it?
  • ibusemibusem Member Posts: 5
    My 2003 Exployer xlt has rear disc pads I would like to Adj. the rear parking brake but could not find an adjustment, I have new pads and rotors that I put on. Thank You. ibusem1@aol.com
  • ford06cvpiford06cvpi Member Posts: 1
    Hello All:

    I have a 1998 Ford Explorer XLT with AWD and 5.0L V8. My problem is a Terrible Vacumm leak. There's an open port where a hose used to be hooked up. It's right underneath the top intake cover, towards the firewall on the right side.(its next to the master cylinder.) I plugged it for now with a 3/8 vacuum plug and its back to normal idle. but I don’t want to damage anything by " jimmy-rigging." like that. I don’t see any hose's loose anywhere, and I really cant figure out how to read the diagram under the hood very well to try and trace in back to where its being fed from. Any suggestions? any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you for your time
  • dave1309dave1309 Member Posts: 16
    Have a 2006 Explorer. Had oil change today and Ford mechanic said the left front axle seal was starting to leak.
    Can anyone give me an idea fo what it will cost to replace and repair this seal?
    Have an extended service warranty but wanted to check the price first. Have a $200 deductible on the warranty.
    Problem is nothing serious at the moment just some very small drips (less than a teaspoon a day).

    Thanks
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    I believe the results of my research on this topic was that you cannot adjust the parking brake on the 02 and up Explorers. You can adjust the parking brake on the older versions of Explorers.

    Bioman
Sign In or Register to comment.