Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

1119120121122124

Comments

  • griz9griz9 Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a 2005 Ford Explorer XLT and I am having issues with the keyless entry pad on the drivers door. With the car locked it only takes one button to unlock the car with the pad, three of the five work with just one press. I tried to disconnect the battery to reset it to the factory code, I have tried to follow the instuctions to erase persoal code and nothing is working. Any ideas how I can fix this??
    Thanks.
  • acunningham1acunningham1 Member Posts: 13
    I have a 2005 Ford Explorer XLT. My battery died. When I tried to start the car the airbag and Advance Trac warning lights came on. Once I got a boost and was able to replace the battery the Advance Trac Warning Light continues to stays on. This warning light was not on prior to the bad battery. According to the manual it says when this warning light comes on get it serviced immediately. Could this problem be caused by changing the battery? Can this warning light be reset without servicing? I turned off the Advance Trac button inside the SUV but the warning light still stays on. Don't want to get scammed in spending a lot of money to service this "problem".
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,256
    If you have the owner's manual, try to figure out what fuse is connected to Advance Trac, then check the fuse for continuity.
    All that means is that if the fuse is ok, your tester will make a tone.
    If you don't have a tester, you can get one at radio shack for about $20.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • acunningham1acunningham1 Member Posts: 13
    Thanks for the information. I will give it a try. Hopefully it is just a bad fuse.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I'm thinking you have a fault caused by a power surge when the new battery was hooked up. I would disconnect the negative terminal again, wait 10 seconds, make sure all accessories in the car are OFF, and reconnect. All of your lights should now stay off when the car is started, and you're fixed. However, if not, you're going to need service, assuming the fuses are indeed all good.
  • ford343783ford343783 Member Posts: 6
    Can anybody tell me where can I buy the door armrest cover ( front & rear) for ford explorer 2006. Thanks!
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Your dealer can order them, usually overnight.
  • riprripr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 explorer 4x4, when driving under normal conditions it seems when the transmission gets warmed up it starts to knock and loose power. if I take it out of D and put in P or N the noise goes away, I put in gear the knock comes back and an a burning odor like a cluch plate burning. if left alone it the truck will die and will not start. I go back a couple of hours later the truck will start and I was able to drive the short distance home.

    Any Ideas of where to start, the fluid is not low nor does it really look burnt. When the tranny is cold it seems to shift just fine and operate just fine. I would say warm up time is about 20 min of driving.

    Thank you in advance for any guidance
    Rip
  • anglkisses98anglkisses98 Member Posts: 3
    This morning my engine began making a noise so I immediately took it to my mechanic. I drove 2-3 miles total and did not go over 30mph. He said that somehow I had run out of oil (possibly very low) so he did an oil change. He said it was still making the noise because the lifters (?) did not have oil. He said it would not harm the engine to run it but the noise would be disturbing, and that it may resolve itself in a day or two. If not the lifters would need to be replaced. My dad doesn't believe that's the case and also wants me to add some kind of STP honey? to the oil for extra lubrication. Do I trust my mechanic? Other than driving it home a mile it hasn't been driven.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Problem isn't the transmission, it's the engine. Sounds like it's overheating to me. Check the coolant, watch the temp guage, and go from there.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Sounds like you ruined the top end of the engine with the low oil pressure. The lifter noise may go away in a few days like the mechanic says, but that doesn't mean it's ok. They noise will come back, and the engine will not run right anymore. STP is fine as a stopgap, but you have ruined the engine, get rid of the car fast, you will need a new engine very soon if you don't.
  • mcwellmcwell Member Posts: 6
    Trust your mechanic on this one. It is possible that all is toast. With fresh oil the lifters should pump up fairly quickly. If they are damaged as may be the case, then they will continue to knock. I know it sounds horrible but please just start the engine, after checking the oil level agian, and let it run at idle. the STP is a nice idea. This thickens the oil and keeps lubricant on and in parts after the vehicle is turned off. The lifters are small hydraulic pumps that dampen the physical contact between the camshaft and the valves. I would be greatly concerned why all the oil ran out or was consumed. The vehicle is not old enough to be worn out. I would keep a quart of oil-say 10w40 in the car, and check the oil level every day for a while to see what is happening to your oil. While youare at it, check the coolant level too by actually removing the filler cap, COLD ENGINE ONLY, and looking in the radiator. I have a 99 explorer and it is losing coolant and the coolant recovery tank does not reflect a low level.
    Good luck! Let us know if it clears up.
    MB
  • anglkisses98anglkisses98 Member Posts: 3
    I wondered the same thing. My husband changes the oil and he can't remember when he changed it. It was important because if it ran out of oil in the time since he changed it there is another problem. I think what happened was our dash system was telling us it was time to change the oil and normally he resets it when he changes it but I think he may have turned it off to stop the warning, intending to change it and forgot. I'm not entirely sure. Someone said since he uses synthetic it may have helped prevent damage, it was never smoking and I only went up the street to the mechanic. The noise seems to have lessened since we put the STP in yesterday but hasn't gone away yet. The mechanic quoted us around $550 to replace the lifters if necessary. I mainly wanted to make sure that the mechanic was right about not causing more damage by driving it with the noise. I will be adding oil changes to my responsibilities! Thanks for your help.
  • anglkisses98anglkisses98 Member Posts: 3
    And I will take your advice and check the levels too, thanks again!
  • servicemandudeservicemandude Member Posts: 1
    I just ran into the same situation this week and still have not figured out why after 2 or 3 minutes after you start the vehicle that the check the charging system display lights up * I just replaced the belt today to see if it helped * it worked for about 10-15 minutes before that crazy display came on again * I replaced the alternator that was faulty , recharged battery for 12-13 hours and thought it was an easy repair until this display issue keeps coming back * Any help would be greatly appreciated :) ** THX
  • johnnykooljohnnykool Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Ford explorer XLT. It started making the incredibly loud humming noise after i hit around 30 mph. I noticed my ball joint was bad so i changed it and rotatedm y tires thinking that would have been the issue. The sound got softer for around a week and now it is right back to be extremely loud. What else could this be. I heard maybe the wheel bearing but im not for sure and i really cant afford to put the money into it just to figure out that its not the wheel bearing. The only other thing i could think maybe had something to do with it is the fact i took the 4-wheel drive shaft off to redo the joints on it and the upper joint fell out and i have yet to replace it so its been out for over a month now. Does anyone have any suggestions or can anyone help me out in any way. It would be great.
  • mcwellmcwell Member Posts: 6
    Start with this. Check the voltage at the battery with engine off. Write it down. Start the engine check it again and write it down. wait for batt light to come on and check it again to compare. You want to rule out 2 things, the battery is defective, not charging=12.25-12.75 volts. Motor running= 13-14 volts, and that the new alternator is actually working. I am thinking you have a bad connection coming off of the alternator. Caution- WATCH YOUR HANDS AROUND THE ALTERNATOR WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING.
    After charging the battery for several hours it may retain enough voltage to not que the batt.light for a few minutes. Of course this means the altemator is not working or the connection to it is faulty.
  • ttch009ttch009 Member Posts: 2
    Where would be the best place to take my Ford Explorer 2001 that has an engine coolant leak problem for a diagnostic appraisal ? The Ford dealer ? or a regular mechanic. I have a deep distrust of most mechanics around my area and dont know of anyone near by. Please help.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    This post may be deleted - but if not, you may want to check the recommended mechanics list at CarTalk.com. They are posted there by customers from all over the country. Not knowing where you are, I don't know how to get you to someone you can trust.

    You should be able to trust the Ford dealer - should be. But sorry to say, you can't depend on anything for sure.
  • ttch009ttch009 Member Posts: 2
    Thank You Steve, I'm located in the Miami area near Sweetwater Zip 33174.
    The mechanics around here are notoriously unreliable and expensive. Thank you for your reply. I checked the mechanics at cartalk as you recommended and found a few around my area and I will check them out. But if you have someone please let me know.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I had a guy I liked and trusted in Gainesville, but that won't help you. Good luck, hoping you find a friend in Miami! :blush:
  • ridernlridernl Member Posts: 6
    Okay, here's my problem. One morning, the power windows just stopped working. All 4 stopped at the same time. Checked the fuse, seems fine...plus manual says audio on the same fuse and audio works. Removed the apparatus from the driver door and installed brand new to check, and still nothing. Battery is new so can't be that. Took look at the wires in the floor on driver side going to door and all seemed okay. Pulling my hair out....any ideas?

    Bob
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    edited January 2012
    Yep, afraid I do have an idea, and you're not going to like it. Could be the body Control Module, the computer that manages most of the electrical accessorys in the cabin. Very expensive. Try rebooting the car with a battery disconnect for a few minutes. Turn something on to drain all residual power out of the car, then re-hook up. If I'm right, they'll work again, and you may not have a problem again. But, if it keeps happening, the module may need replacing, OR, you may have a short or ground loose somewhere else. Pray you do! Good luck.
  • chloe14chloe14 Member Posts: 4
    I could add to that class action suit as at 72,000 miles my transmission was replaced due to unpredictable, dangerous stalling while driving 75 miles per hour on a freeway, a ford dealer told me to replace the transmission as the transmission head had completely cracked?
    I have since read on this blog of a similar problem that some one else had and they only replaced the V2V valve, now am wondering if I got taken by ford yet again, anyway I have also had to replace the ball joints in front at 72000 miles, so I would be interested in a suit
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    You weren't taken by
    Ford, you may have been taken by a dealer, and that is not Ford. Probably the valve replacement would have done it - independent shops are often better for this repair out of warranty.
  • leelee89leelee89 Member Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    hi i just bought a 2000 ford explorer xlt 4wd and i put lots of work in to i put a new heater core and new axle along with upper and lower balljoints and tirod ends. i still need to put both o2 sencers in and shocks but i cant seem to figure out why i keep runing out of antifrezz i can not see not leek i have check my oil and that look great my belt also make a squealing noise like the belts going bad im not sure whats going on i was thinking it might be my water pump going bad or they didnt put my heater core in right anyone out there having the same problems with this please help im runing out of money on this truck and time its driving me crazy
  • sandiw469sandiw469 Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 98 ford explorer, 4.0 SOHC with 190,000 miles. It started and ran about 20 feet the other day, and then wouldn't start. I checked the fuel pressure, it was low, so I put in a new fuel pump, in the tank. (I've got a bad back and took me 1 1/2 days). still wouldn't start, checked the spark at the plug, it was very weak and intermittent, so I put a coil on. Now it's got good spark, and when I turn the key, I hear the pump come on and off, turn it to start and it ALMOST starts, then just cranks!!! I get no codes when I run diagnostics, so I need help to figure out what to do next. Thanks
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Could be the crank sensor.....
  • ford343783ford343783 Member Posts: 6
    Actually, I do not have any problem with my transmission. My car is running 55,000 miles already.I just want to ask, does Explorer 2006 needs transmission fluid change? I think since it was designed with no dip stick at all, there is no need for fluid change. Will it create any problem in the future if I do not make any fluid change? Advice PLEASE!
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    These transmissions are "sealed for life" and a transmission service is not "required" on them. They expect "life" to be 100,000 miles. But I would have it serviced anyway. It won't hurt, and may extend the life considerably.
  • msrainmsrain Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 96 explorer 4 WD V6 EDDIE BAUERAND IT'S NOT RUNNING RIGHT AND THIS IS WHAT IT DOES:
    REV UP WHILE STOPPED AND IN PARK
    WHILE IN PARK IT JERKS/ROCKS AND SOUNDS LIKE ITS GOING TO CUT OFF UNTIL I STEP ON GAS
    WHEN IT REACHES A CERTAIN SPEED IT COASTS OR LOSE POWER & CUT OFF
    MAKING A WHINING NOISE

    Can someone help me? :cry:
  • hammer20hammer20 Member Posts: 4
    the rattle was harmonic balancer the weight seperated inside of it
  • hammer20hammer20 Member Posts: 4
    on my 2004 mountaineer brake pulsates 2 or 3 times just before coming to a complete stop if you brake easy it doesnt occur abs light on intermittently wether using brakes or not
  • ladyscornedladyscorned Member Posts: 4
    I've had nothing but issues with this vehicle since I bought it, I don't blame the vehicle though...the previous owner perhaps and the dealer that sold me the Sohc engine... are more at fault. I love the vehicle because the 4 wheel drive aspect of it is wonderful. What I'm writing for is to tell what i've fixed, what it's doing now and hopefully someone that has had this generation can give me advice on what I have to look forward to. I need to know what needs to be fixed now that could save me a great deal of money down the line.
    Whats been fixed is shocks, struts for front and back, there was a tensioner fixed on one of the front timing belts, the tow package was fixed and a seal put on replaced on the radiator because it was leaking antifreeze.

    My problem is that sometimes the truck smells like it's leaking oil. There has been no discovery of this just the antifreeze leak. and even after the seal was put on the radiator I still smell an antifreeze leak but the source of it, has been unfindable to date.
    I am going to have to have the Sohc engine pulled out in the next few weeks to have a belt replaced (on this model there are four timing belts) I think at that time I should have all four timing belts fixed and the tensioner so that the wear on them is even. Any thoughts on this?

    The truck runs like is sounds weaker like it could die at any moment, there is a high pitched noise (which I'm told may be the belt issue which makes sense), and there is a grinding sometimes on the passengers side when I'm driving it (which I think is the ball joints because I had the same issue with a ford taurus I had a while ago...it's the same noise...poping, grinding)....
    What I want to know is
    1. When they have the cruddy engine pulled is there anything else besides the belts and tensioners that they could do to it to make the engine better? Is there a way to overhaul this engine to make it not have all the issues this engine is known to have?
    It's a V6 by the way so the mileage is better.

    2. Is there anything else that could be attributed to those noises that I haven't mentioned that should be checked?
    Would a tune up help with any of this?

    My vehicle is the 2000 ford explorer XLT with the Sohc engine
    just under 94000 miles
    I'm not blaming the vehicle, it's not her fault she wasn't taken care of but now that I have the Explorer I don't plan on giving up on it because I'm sure there is something that can be done now to help and lessen the damage of issues later on or perhaps eliminate that altogether. I want to have this vehicle for the next ten years at least so any advice would be much appreciated.
    I feel the dealer should have let me know of all these issues but , alas lessons learned....always have my mechanic check crap out before I buy it. :)
  • redhawk3redhawk3 Member Posts: 1
    i hav a 2000 ford exp. limited. dashbaord red low voltage and batt. was lit up.replaced batt.,alternator,tension pully,and belt. checked all grounds (cleaned to ensure proper grounding). tested batt. (was good) ,tested alt. (was good). hooked up voltage tester to batt while running. (test was good). put tester on alt. (tested not good) was no current going thru hot wire to alt. hooked jumper cable from bolted hot wire on alt. to poss. batt. terminal and was charging batt. looked on my chevy truck and alt. wire goes directly to hot on batt. did same test on truck and tested perfect. so took heavy gauge wire from alt. to poss. batt. and is now running and charging. this dosn,t mean that its a permanent fix but shud keep u going til u can find the scource of orig. prob. cud also drop the starter and make sure all conections are clean and secure. hope that helps. (double chek all fuses)
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I'm concerned about your mechanic - because IIRC, the 2000 4.0L six is a Cologne engine, and has a timing chain, not belts..... so I'm wondering why he's going to pull that engine out to replace the "belts".......4 of 'em.....

    Make sure he oils your Muffler bearings while he's in there, ok?

    The only problems this engine is known to have, is a neoprene cog that the "chain" will wear out, and intake manifold leaks. The engine is a workhorse that has been around since 1975 at least, and is one of the toughest, strongest and most reliable engines in the industry. Please get a second opinion! With 94,000 miles, this engine should just be broken in, not broken down even with some moderate neglect.....
  • ladyscornedladyscorned Member Posts: 4
    Oils a muffler? lol funny.
    This model is a V8 and mine is not. It's also typically all wheel drive whereas mine is 4 wheel drive. It's not that I'm car ignorant it's that I'm ford ignorant. I'm not used to them. I prefer a Buick...I had to buy something though when my 87 Buick Century was totaled. :( Ford is a completely different beast.
    I would get a second opinion if there was anywhere else to go around here. I might take it to Rick Ball in Sedalia, mo I've heard good things about them. Our dealer well here everytime I take it on there and get it back it makes some loud awful noise. Fact is it didn't make that noise before I took it to the local ford dealer and well I don't think they put the engine back together right last time they worked on it so I need to take it somewhere.

    Well the guy I got it from was a former Ford mechanic and it was towed behind a trailer so most of the mileage is just tow mileage. I'm not blaming the vehicle and the mechanic won't pull the engine unless he can find something to give him a reason to. It's not at that point yet. there is this constant or nearly constant high pitched noise...it's not loud or anything it's just annoying and constant and I want to fix it if we can ever figure out what 'it ' is .
    The MAf Sensor seems to be working fine so that's not it. I'm not sure what else it could be.
    Anyway thanks for the heads up :) It's why I ask this stuff. I'm learning about Fords.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    The high pitched whine is usually an idler pully that's wearing out and needs replacement - pretty common, no big deal, cheap to replace and easy. Could be an alternator too, but most likely the pully.

    There are no inherent weaknesses in the 2000 Explorers. Some years there are, but that one is very strong, tough, and dependable. The shift motor for the 4WD can go bad after several years - and if it quits or has trouble going into or out of 4WD, that's what it is, and it's a $400 or so repair. Other than that, they will run forever. I've had 8 Explorers starting with 94, up to 2012. We love them. Their design is always superior and ahead of the curve, even though a 4-Runner may run longer without issues. Ford invents the feature, others eventually adopt it (like folding 3rd row seats - I know yours doesn't have them), except for GM, who never seems to get it. You should end up loving this truck. You can drive it over curbs, and it won't bend. Good luck!
  • ladyscornedladyscorned Member Posts: 4
    thanks a bunch for the heads up :)
    I love it so far I think the tires are pricey but should last a while. It's way better thus far than my Taurus was. The Taurus cost me $300 a month in repairs but then again the person that had it before me ran the crap outta that Taurus. I only paid $1,300 for that car and it got me around for a year and I have a lot of miles I drive.
    This Explorer cost a little money off the bat and I was worried but it was minor stuff mostly. I took on a payment for it but I had to at some point because it's like they say you get what you pay for.
    Sounds like I made a good deal on it. I will check to idler pulley myself. Thanks for the advice because when I tell anyone else they're thinking worst possible when I'd like to fix the little issues first to see if that works because if someone pulls an engine a lot can go wrong and I don't think it's necessary.
    I'm glad to hear you'd had such good luck it gives me some relief. I've heard that which is why when I snagged this for $6,600 I couldn't resist because it has some extras..a tow package. I know around here vehicles like this sell for around $8,000. I'm hoping to have this one still when I get my Masters degree. I like that it drives like a truck.
    Which is nice to have. The 4 Wheel drive works nicely and in snow I don't slide around.
    How do they do on ice?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Honestly, I have a cabin in the mountains, and my Explorers have done about the best of any of my 4WD vehicles. I've had 2 Escalades, and both of them tended to stick me on the hills on ice, while the Explorers have pulled me up the same hills. I have found them to be very steady and dependable in any road conditions, even mud. I think you'll be happy.
  • idokteridokter Member Posts: 1
    Knock on wood. This has been a trouble free SUV. Change oil ever 3-5k miles. Never had a true tune up. What service should be done? Plugs? Filters? It has new battery and tires and still get std miles of about 300+ miles per tank. :shades:
  • prettybirdprettybird Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I am new to this, and to my dimay, I have not heard very good things about the 1991 transmission, I have been basically given a Ford Explorer, manual, five speed, and it runs, but it sounds terrible when I try to put into gear, like it is grinding, what could this be?
  • mcwellmcwell Member Posts: 6
    There is an adjustment on the clutch linkage that might give you better clutch pedal travel. Probably the clutch has been replaced and the cabling has been maladjusted somewhere in the past. If the clutch point is at the top of the pedal(pedal all the way up), the clutch is worn out, but you would not get the grinding that you have described. By grinding it means the clutch is not disengaging completely and the gears are trying to turn before they are engaged-thus grinding against each other. The repair manual should indicate how to adjust this out. The cable itself could actually be the problem by serious stretching or even cutting through the cable housing thus making the cable have more length and not disengaging the clutch completely. If you are going to look at this yourself- wear goggles first-not after oily crap falls in you eyes.
    Hope this helps!
    McBwell
  • eaglejim7eaglejim7 Member Posts: 1
    My explorer cranks but will not start. The anti-theft light on the dash blinks very fast. It's been in the repair shop for 1 week now. They could not get it to repeat the no start. Finally they called today and said the anti-theft transceiver P/N F8SB15607AC IS THE PROBLEM. tHEY ALSO SAID THIS PART IS ON NATIONAL BACKORDER UNTIL JUNE 1ST. Does anyone know if there is another part number that will work? I can't find this part anywhere. Thank you.
  • huskerrubenhuskerruben Member Posts: 1
    I don't understand, I have a 2003 Explorer, all of a sudden, I cannot turn to defrost mode, it stays stuck on the split window/floor mode, the windows quit working, I cannot get the truck into low 4wd, I think high works but I don't hear it engage, I just see the light on, and now when I drive, there is a loud "clicking" sound that is coming from the left rear wheel area, but it goes away if I take a sharp enough right turn, otherwise, the faster I go, the louder it gets, so loud inside that I have to crank the stereo to drown it out. Where do I start???? Please help!!!! :mad:
  • nvfordnvford Member Posts: 1
    I recently swamped my 2000 4.0L SHOC explorer. I have removed all the water, dried all the electrical components, and replaced the spark plug wires. But it still dose not want to start, and if it dose start it has no power to move when in gear. Anyone know what else might be wrong?
  • b7v7rm71rb7v7rm71r Member Posts: 1
    edited June 2012
    If you recently changed the tires they could be the wronge size. I had that problem with my 2003 for explorer put the proper size tire and it was good as knew.
  • ziggypiggyziggypiggy Member Posts: 1
    i've had similiar problems with ALL 4 WINDOWS, but in my case i can hear the power window motors running, the glass just does not move. can get stuck either up or down. obviously a design flaw. ANYBODY HAVE ANY MODIFICATIONS I CAN DO TO REPAIR , I'M SURE I'LL FIGURE OUT SOMETHING eventually, but a push in the right direction would sure be appreciated. :-) ziggypiggy
  • jim5072jim5072 Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2012
    I had this alarm problem. It turned out to be the connectors at the top of the rear hatch. Open the rear hatch, pull the trim panel down at the top area to expose two connectors. These connectors twist each time the hatch is opened. If contact is lost due to temperature changes, wind, etc, the alarm sounds. They can be tightened by gently squeezing the female side of the connector with pliers. CAREFUL NOT TO OVER DO IT. Lube the connectors with electrical grease and reinstall. Mine drove me bonkers before I figured it out. Good luck
  • jeff242jeff242 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I was wondering if you knew how I could go about fixing a leak from the rear left side window? The seal looks tight, but rain is getting in like crazy. Thanks.
Sign In or Register to comment.