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Comments
Thanks again,
E
I am in the market for an 4WD Explorer from 1997-1999. I have done some research, but can't seem to find the answers to the following. Thanks in advance to any who can help.
What is an XLS compared to an XLT?
Do the SOHC V6 models only come with the 5spd auto?
Can you turn off the 4WD? I have a friend with a Sport who has 3 selections, all labeled 4WD.
Whats the most common problem in this model range?
How do the ball joints hold up?
Thanks again.
noise will probably get worse over time.
not such a great suv now, huh?
Ace
the front driveshafts are a KNOWN problem with the vehicle, just not very common. they somehow bend and rub against their housings. the noise is actually still there above 25 mph, it's just that the frequency is such that it blends inot one subtle noise, not the chirp, chirp, chirp....
Ace
My thoughts...stay away from a 1999 Explorer. A lot of people (myself included) on here have posted about a plethora of problems with this model year. Consumer reports also gives the 1999 Explorers some of the worst ratings the Explorer has gotten since it came out in the early 90s.
As for the trucks, the XLS comes with the 4.0 OHV engine. It has about 35 fewer horsepower than the SOHC 6 cylinder, but has had a lot fewer problems. This is basically the same engine they have been using in Explorer and Ranger for nearly 10 years. The XLT comes with the SOHC engine, and an optional V8. The SOHC engines from 1997-1999 model years were bothered by a timing belt tensioner problem and leaks with the manifold. Ford did offer an extended warranty on the engine to owners of trucks with the SOHC engines because of these problems.
Hope this helps.
XL/XLS is the base model. XLT is the mid-grade model. An XL/XLS can be optioned out to equipment levels close to an XLT, but not quite. The XLT was probably the most popular model during the 97-99 model year as it offered the best value for the dollar in terms of equipment and price.
Yes, the SOHC V6 comes only with the 5spd automatic. XL/XLS models came standard with a 4.0L OHV engine. The SOHC engine was an option in the XLT models beginning with the '97 model year. The SOHC was also an option on XLS models beginning with the '00 model year. Most XLT models in the 97-99 model year range will have the SOHC engine (it was a popular option), but there may also be some running around with the OHV engine.
The 4WD is always on in the sense that there is not a 2WD setting. The choices are 4WD Auto, 4WD High and 4WD Low. The normal setting is auto, and the truck basically is rear-wheel drive in this setting. However, as soon as the rear wheels slip the front wheels will automatically engage. It is a good system and is not intrusive in any way when it kicks in.
The SOHC engine is the biggest problem. There are issues with the timing belt tensioners. Ford has even extended the engine warranties for some owners for the components directly related to the problem.
Don't know of any ball joint problems. I would assume no worse than any other similar vehicles on the market.
Any thoughts?
Have a '00 Explorer and love it. On the inside bottom of each of the front doors is a long rubber gasket/shield held in by 4 or 5 white plastic fasteners. Does anyone know of a source for these fasteners? The rubber shield on my driver's side is slightly loose and it appears to be due to a loose fastener (they are all loose, but one significantly more than the others).
Thanks!
I owned a 1994 Explorer (with the v6 OHV) and I now own a 2000 Explorer with the v6 SOHC. tHE 1996 Explorer you are looking at has a 4.0 L OHV engine. It is not as powerful as the V8 or the SOHC, but has a lot fewer problems. The 1996 model year was one of the best for Explorers.
The 1997-1999 versions of the SOHC had many problems.. to the point that Ford had to extend the warranty to 72,000 miles on the cam tensioners (there are 3 in the SOHC - two in the front and one in the back) and the lower manifold gasket. To change the timing chains on the SOHC, you have to lift the engine out of the vehicle.. which is very involved and can get very expensive if not under warranty. The OHV engine, although less powerful (especially if you are towing) still got me several speeding tickets. The OHV was much simpler engine and easier to service. That's my two cents.
What I would look at when evaluating ANY vehicle: These are easy to do without getting really dirty:
1. If you are buying it from an invdividual, ask to see the repair and service history. If the person really took care of it, they would save all of the repair work receipts. That's the kind of person to buy a used car from.. somebody who cared to change the oil every 3,000 miles and kept good records of any problems. When was the radiator last flushed? Hoses changed? Spark plugs and wires changed? Air cleaner changed?
2. look at the fluid levels and smell them (especially the tranny fluid) to check for a burning smell. Are the fluids uniform in color with no oil floating in the top of the radiator reservoir bottle (this can mean tranny fluid has breached the barrier and is in your radiator, and consequently, coolant is in your tranny).
3. Are there any puddles under where the vehicle is parked?
4. Check the air cleaner element. If it is relatively clean, the owner cared to change it and probably did not drive it in sand or mud which can get into the lubrication points in the suspension as well as rot the brakes, which are not so easy to see.
5. Is there a tow hitch on the vehicle? If so, how heavy a trailer was towed, and was it towing a boat? Many times when you have to launch a boat, the rear wheels can go into the water. The salt water can rust the chassis as well as the brakes if not washed off immediately. Also a very heavy trailer can put a strain on the tranny. The max load on most Explorers is about a 2500 pounds trailer, and 300 pounds at the tongue, unless there were modifications done.
6. Check the interior and try to decide that the odometer reading makes sense based on the condition of the drivers seat and carpet.
6. Look for muck in the tailpipe. This can be a indicator of a gasket leak allowing coolant or oil through the system.
7. Get in the car and before starting the engine look around to see that everything looks uniform ... no new seats or new interior panels.
8. Before starting the engine, push down on the brake pedal until the master cylinder is discharged. The with your foot on the brake pedal (without touching the gas pedal), turn on the engine. If the brake booster comes alive under your foot as the engine is started and returns to normal function quickly, then the booster and master cylinder are in good shape.
9. Drive the car with the windows open and the radio off. Listen for noises from the engine, brakes and suspension. When you step on the brakes firmly, does it stop evenly without a shudder or pedal vibration (could be warped rotors). Does the engine choke a bit when you get heavy on the gas and does it hesistate on launch after a stop light?
10. Lastly, talk with the owner and ask him right out why he is selling the car and was it ever in an accident, stolen or submerged in water (many cars are sold after a flood storm). Be wary of guys that want cash that day or are not too knowledgeable about the vehicle. They may have just bought it, found out that there is something wrong and want to unload it. Carfax.com could be your best friend here.
Good luck!
As a law enforcement officer please be advised that Rollovers are not pretty. At any rate perhaps we can hear from some fellows officers on this same topic along with some automotive truck design engineers.
Thank you for the opportunity to be apart of this forum.
JTN
You can check the auto clutch by doing the following test:
In an open space (empty parking lot)
Put left foot firmly on the brake.
Shift to drive
Put right foot LIGHTLY on gas...
If car stalls or you hear banging noises.. you have a problem. Keep in mind.. easy on the gas here.
Good luck.
there have been quite a few posts on this board from people who had to replace transmissions, engines, etc. well below the 96K miles on your vehicle. i bought a '97 XLT last fall with 32K miles and have already claimed $500 on my warranty.
just view the warranty as buying prepaid maintenance and repair insurance.
My wife and I have a 97 Explorer XLT 2WD, with about 62k miles on it. We noticed a knocking sound whenever we would brake towards the fron of the car. We took it in and they said it was the brakes. So we got brand new brakes. However, in the past couple of days, the sound has gotten worse. You really notice it when you make a left turn or when you hit a bump. It feels like a clicking/slipping/knocking./ Anyone experience this or have any idea what it is? Other than that, the car is great. It's my wife's and I have been pushing her to get rid of it, but she refuses. She wants to keep it forever. Thanks in advance for the help.
a) resetting the PCM (engine computer) by disconnecting the battery for two minutes then reconnecting the battery. The PCM will now relearn all engine settings. Of course you do this with regular gas in the tank. The engine may run rough for a few miles (10) while the PCM is in the "learn" mode
I) with 130,000 miles on it, your engine may also be suffering from carbon build up. To resolve this issue you may want to put some of the readily available decarbonizing agents into a tank of gas or have the engine decarbonized by a good mechanic.
Good Luck
Bioman3
The skid plate that sits below the gas tank is a possible candidate to check out. It is supported by 4 small bolts, and since is is essentially a sheet of metal, will make a rattle noise.
Also look at the bushings on the suspension and the spare tire mount.
Good luck. This may be an easy fix that you can do at home if you are mechanically inclined.
I am looking at leasing an Explorer. We here in Australia haven't got the new updated model yet, so ours are the older (rounder) versions). We also get a 'special' model out here, because the XLT is only 4x4 and it comes with the bronze wheel arches (I think you guys only get this on the Eddied Barer versions), and they also have self leveling rear suspension.
They are now going for at least 10K Australian than they were when they first came out. So now they are selling for $39990, which is pretty cheap.
Is there anything I should be weary of with the older model? It is the 2000 model range that is still being sold here. I noticed some talk of 87 octane fuel. We have unleaded at 91, and premiums at 95 and 98 octane. Will they run OK on 91?
Are they expensive to serivce?
How many miles/kilometres do you guys get to a tank?
Any regular problems that are often coming up?
BTW, Ford Australia has done extensive work on the real suspension to make them more suitable to Australian conditions. ALso, I was talking to a Ford mechanic, and he said that they have heard of no rollovers, and no tyre seperations. Which is interesting considering that many of these vehicles are coming up to thier second set of tyres.
I would appreciate any help you could give me.