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Toyota Highlander

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Comments

  • jim70jim70 Member Posts: 27
    Agreed petl. My wife and I test drove the Honda Pilot and Toyota Highlander extensively before making our decision. In our opinion the Highlander is much more refined, with the smoothest and most quite ride, as well as a very smooth, peppy drivetrain. It is a personal decision however, others may prefer something else. I don't intend to knock the competition because the Pilot is an excellent vehicle as well. But as far as refinement, there is no contest in my opinion.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    I'm sure I will. I have enough sophistication to appreciate refinement and value.
  • highlander48highlander48 Member Posts: 6
    I think it is indeed generally acknowledged that the Highlander is one of the most refined SUVs on the road. Any review you read, regardless of what else they say, always comments on the refinement, smoothness and quietness of the Highlander. It is most often attributed to the fact that the Highlander and Lexus 330 share a lot of components.
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  • budhbudh Member Posts: 109
    Having brought my 2002 Toyota V6 AWD with 140,000 miles to my Toyota dealership to check out a simultaneous check engine light and vehicle stability control light, I learned that I would need an oxygen sensor replaced which would cost about $400.

    I passed on this repair - especially considering I'm looking at possibly not having this vehicle a year from now.

    The two diagnostic codes received from an OBDII scan tool were:

    P0125 (Insufficient Coolant Temperature For Closed Loop Fuel Control)

    and

    P0136 (Oxygen Sensor Circuit Malfunction - Bank #1 Sensor #2)

    Any ideas on what short and long term issues I might have not replacing this oxygen sensor?

    Bud H
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My guess (based on problems with an '89 DC I had) is lousy performance and lousy mpg. I recently read somewhere that bad 02 sensors can also result in a clogged catalytic converter after a while.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The cost of a Bosch OEM replacment oxygen sensor at NAPA is less than $50.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    I had two O2 sensors replaced on a Ford Explorer a couple years ago and as I recall, it was less than $200. Find an independent shop that services Toyota and get another quote. Btw, my highway mileage went up 2 mpg with the new 02 sensors.
  • 02ramman02ramman Member Posts: 62
    I would change the coolant thermostat, it sounds like it is sticking open and the Engine is not getting up to the proper operating temp at all or is taking to long. It MIGHT have an effect on the 02 sensor, but with that many miles it is probably due for a change anyway.
  • silverltdsilverltd Member Posts: 18
    My husband and I each own a 4WD Highlander Limited---mine is a 2001 with 66,000 miles and his is a 2003 with 48,000 miles. Both are in great condition inside and out, and neither has had any mechanical problems (knock wood). I even had a "real" Highlander center console added to my 2001.

    Due to medical issues, my husband is no longer able to drive. I was thinking of trading in both Highlanders and getting one 2007 4WD Highlander Limited. I went to our dealer to discuss this possibility and he agreed that it could be done at minimal out-of-pocket cost to us.

    My rationalization is that we only need one SUV and I would like to start with a new SUV with no mileage; I don't want to have to buy a new car for many, many years.

    I would welcome any opinions on this. I love my 2001 Highlander and was wondering if there are any major changes (other than the so-called 3rd-row seating that I really don't want) that I should know about. Have there been any known maintenance problems with the 2007s?

    Again, any opinions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you!
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    I think it would be more economical to just keep your preference of the two cars you own. You are not driving that much and who knows the future?
  • toyotagaltoyotagal Member Posts: 215
    I would tend to agree from a financial point of view. However, that said there is the problem of getting rid of one of the older vehicles.

    However, from something more than an economical point of view there comes a good feeling of owning a new vehicle that you can't put a dollar sign on. And if you are up in years, as I am, it may cross your mind that this "could" be your last vehicle.

    My opinion boils down to: if you can afford it without placing any financial hardship on yourself, go for it.

    Further, there will be no repair bills for more than 3 years. Also the new models are safer with more safety features.
  • rblelandrbleland Member Posts: 312
    Why an '07 model, why not get the new '08 HL as it should be available in the summer some time, and I don't hear any need to rush in your post?
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Whats your definition of "up in years." Your posts look mid 40's. :)
  • leejean1952leejean1952 Member Posts: 1
    During the March snow storm, we found our 07 Highlander AWD unable to move forward or back in the 6 to 8" of heavy snow over a icy driveway which is flat. All we got from the Toyota Company call in rep. is that "this is not an off-road vehical and "that the saftey stability control system" is what was keeping them from being able to move back and forth enough to get the momentum needed to get out of the driveway. We were able to get out with our Honda CRV. The CRV did spin & dig down, but we were able to work back and forth enough to get running start on a short path and get out. The Highlander just kept braking and not allowing any exceleration and therefore no momentum to move. No difference with the ECT switch on or off. I saw several comments about a similar problem with the AWD HL in heavy mud. Why can't I manually disengage the Vehicle Stability Control (VSC) and Traction control (TRAC), which I believe kept the HL from moving?
  • jbolltjbollt Member Posts: 736
    Seems to me there IS a way. It may involve several steps, (like turning the key on and off while tapping the brake, or some such sequence) rather than a button to toggle on and off. I think I have read about it on either this forum or one of the other Toyota forums. Try doing a google search for disable VSC Toyota or similar.

    Edit: Found this from a google search: it's for the Rav 4, but may apply to the HL:

    1. Make sure the car is in Park and the parking brake is disengaged before you start the car.
    2. Start the engine.
    3. Engage the parking brake.
    4. Fully depress the brake pedal and then release.
    5. Fully depress the brake pedal and then release.
    6. Disengage the parking brake.
    7. Fully depress and hold down the brake pedal.
    8. Engage the parking brake, then disengage it (while holding down the brake pedal).
    9. Engage the parking brake, then disengage it (while holding down the brake pedal).
    10. Release the brake pedal.
    11. Engage the parking brake.
    12. Fully depress the brake pedal and then release.
    13. Fully depress the brake pedal and then release.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I don't remember which model, most probably the 08 RX350, but it has a single button wherein one press disables the TC, Traction Control, and a second LONG depression disables the VSC.

    In the meantime if you disconnect the MAF/IAT sensor module while the engine is idling the engine will die, reconnect the module, restart the engine and for the next few drives cycles your will have a meaningless CEL but a "meanful" VSC/Trac "failure" indication.

    This entire Toyota/Lexus FWD based AWD product line, RX, HL, Sienna, is AWD for marketing purposes only. No real AWD capability on wintertime roadbed conditions, ice, packed snow, etc, certainly not on an incline.
  • silverltdsilverltd Member Posts: 18
    Thanks all, you all make good points.

    While this isn't a "rush," I think I can get a better deal on a 2007, particularly since the 2008 is going to be a new model.

    I think toyotagal hit the right button for me. First, I wouldn't even know how to go about selling one of the Highlanders. Well, I guess I could figure out how to do it, but I really don't want strangers coming to my house and test driving a vehicle, negotiating price, etc. The thought of that gives me a knot in my stomach because I would have to handle it on my own.

    Second, this could be my last new vehicle purchase. With my husband's illness and future prognosis, the last thing I want to do is have to worry about replacing a car. I know that both Highlanders have relatively low mileage, but with my luck lately, I'm afraid that I will sell one and in a year or so, the one I keep will start having problems. I guess having a brand new Highlander will give me some feeling of long-term security. And yes, that "new car feeling" will definitely be a pleasant diversion for me.

    Logically, selling one of the Highlanders, keeping the other one, and having the money from the sale makes the most sense. But if I can pull the trade-in off with minimal money out-of-pocket---and there are no known probems with the 2007---then my heart tells me to trade-in both cars and get a new one.

    Thank you all for your input, it really is helpful.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Can I help it? I am a financial person. You could have someone you know and trust family,CPA,attorney, take the car and sell it for you. You could offer to pay them maybe $500 to show it and sell it. You should discuss important decisions w/ people you trust,people who know you, prior to acting. Good luck.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I don't see anything wrong with letting the dealer take your trades for a new Highlander. You are almost certain to get more on a private party sale but it's a hassle. You could check with CarMax if there's one in your area - they buy cars and make it easy.

    You can run the numbers at Edmunds.com (Used Car Appraiser) and figure out what your trades are worth, and get a True Market Value number for the new Highlander and that'll keep you in the financial ballpark without getting hosed too badly.

    You can also compare real world pricing in the Toyota Highlander: Prices Paid & Buying Experience discussion.
  • gasman1gasman1 Member Posts: 321
    Whats your definition of "up in years." Your posts look mid 40's Toyotagal should like you! :blush: I agree. She's sharp! :shades: However, I'll allow her to reveal her age (again) if she desires, but she's a wee bit older. :)
  • gasman1gasman1 Member Posts: 321
    I'm sure that all share my good wishes for you and your husband. Down-sizing to one vehicle should also save you some insurance, tax, and maintenance expenses. Peace!
  • gasman1gasman1 Member Posts: 321
    we found our 07 Highlander AWD unable to move forward or back in the 6 to 8" of heavy snow over a icy driveway

    Not to make fun of you as I'm sure you had good reason to move the car. However, it is kind of humorous when you think that a car has enough "common sense" not to begin driving on ice. :)
  • bigred12bigred12 Member Posts: 12
    From postings here, I understand that neither the standard nor upgraded JBL audiosystems will playback MP3 CDs. My dealer says there are no MP3-capable authorized Toyota models that will fit the unusual Highlander mount, but has heard of some after-market Circuit City & AudioVox models that will. He claims that replacement wouldn't void my Toyota warranty, but won't put it in writing. Has anyone had any experience with this situation?
  • jenniferspencejenniferspence Member Posts: 9
    Hi, my husband and I are looking at the 07 Highlander, but cargo area is a top concern of ours. Could anyone tell us what the dimensions are of the cargo area, with the seats up and down? We know the total cargo volume, but the actual dimensions are key. Thanks!
  • webgoodwebgood Member Posts: 95
    This is from my '04, should be the same:
    hatch opening 37" wide at very bottom/floor, 50" at widest about mid-height in the opening. Inside 37" across floor between shock-tower covers, 52" across the top of them. Hatch opening 32" high, max inside 34". Depth 36" to back of rear seats up, 74" to the back of the front seats. (I've carried 4X8 sheets of plywood with the hatch ajar and tied-down).
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    I was also looking in 2004. I checked out all the wagons at about $25,000 and less, and then small SUVs. Cargo volume was very important to us at the time. I don't think you will find many other vehicles with better volume or configuration than the Highlander. Except maybe mini-vans, which we didn't investigate.
  • tomdtomd Member Posts: 87
    The right armrest on the driver's captain chair seem like it goes down below a 90 degree angle. The passenger side seems to be up a bit higher when it is all the way down. I would like to be able to keep it from going down so far for better arm support. Is there some way of taking it apart and adjusting where it stops when all the way down?
  • bwalters4bwalters4 Member Posts: 1
    We have a 06 Highlander Limited 4WD. Like you we have been able to nurse better mileage out of it by driving very conservatively. Our best tank read 25.5 on the trip computer with no A/C on a warm day and strictly highway. We normally get 21 to 22 mph with highway driving according to the trip computer, however I check every tank by dividing the miles driven by the gallons and find that the trip computer is off by 10%. Have you found this to be true? What mileage do you get around town?
  • miatabluemiatablue Member Posts: 4
    We have an 04 Limited V6 4WD. Everytime I have checked the fuel computer I have found it to read 1 mpg higher than what I calc on a tank of gas. Most of my checks have been on long trips. I really have not checked it on local driving.
  • cssnostromocssnostromo Member Posts: 13
    Recently replaced front brake pads with new organic-type Toyota pads @ 54k miles. The performance is less than robust as the semi metallics that originally came with the HL. I would be very interested in hearing from anyone else whose replaced the semi-metallics with these 'green' pads. Thanks!
  • bigred12bigred12 Member Posts: 12
    On the 2007 Highlander w/ Engine Immobilizer: I'm getting conflicting info about what happens if an "unauthorized" key is inserted into the ignition. Does the engine simply not start (but will start if the correct key is later inserted), or does it actually lock up (and require a tow and a dealer to unlock it somehow)?
  • cssnostromocssnostromo Member Posts: 13
    The engine will not start unless it recognizes the key. An 'unauthorized' key is just that-and, accordingly, the engine won't respond unless its one of the four keys supplied with the HL. Be sure to keep the numeric tag that accompanied the keys in a safe place-you'll need it to generate new keys if you lose both sets. Finally, keep the doors locked and you won't have to contend with the potential scenario you've put forward.
  • bigred12bigred12 Member Posts: 12
    Yes, I understand the engine won't start without a "chip key". My question is whether the engine also locks up in a way that it won't subsequently start even with the proper key.

    Here's the scenario I'm worried about: My spouse has am unfortunate tendency to lock his keys in the car (we won't go into why). So we made a copy key (no chip) just to open the door. All well and good if he then remembers to pick up the chip key to start the car. But if he forgets and sticks the NON-chip-key in the ignition, is he stranded?
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    I can't imagine the scenario that you fear. It isn't uncommon for people with two Toyotas to stick the key for the wrong vehicle in the ignition. (I know this from personal experience.) Can't the service department at your dealer give you a definite answer on this?
  • cssnostromocssnostromo Member Posts: 13
    The answer is no, the engine will not lock up with a non-resistor key inserted in it. The system is only brought to life when the correct code given by the key is passed to the ECU, or electronic control unit. It isn't a genie's lamp that gives you only so many tries. How is your husband locking the key in the car with keyless entry? You really have to go out of your way to accomplish that feat. You should have a total of four keys with the HL, so why the need for a 'copy' key? It sounds like your going out of your way to create a problem where there really isn't one.
  • bigred12bigred12 Member Posts: 12
    Thanks, cssnostromo, for that reassurance. Makes technical sense to me, but my dealer thought otherwise.

    All doors on my HL lock if you simply hit the interior lock button before closing the driver's door. Very easy, old habit. Never a problem for me because I just automatically pocket my keys when I'm getting out, but absent-minded-professor hubby has a bad habit of setting his keys down before picking up his briefcase.

    When we bought the car, we only received three keys, two masters and one valet. Hubby uses one master, the second master is stored at home (required to make a replacement), and I use the valet. The backup non-resistor copy is kept in his wallet.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    The trip computer on our '04 V6 is typically about 1 mpg high. I also get 21-22 in highway driving. Higher with premium but not enough higher to offset the cost...although the psychological benefit is priceless. ;)
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    My father just bought his second HL. This one is a 2007, 4 X 4, 4cylinder. HIs prior was a 2003 6 cylinder, 4 X 4. He immediately notices the following situation. Is this normal?

    When ever he stars the car and turns on the blower, the AC and recirculation buttons light up and stay on for up to 2 minutes then shut off. Note that even if he shuts the AC,(pushes the button), it stays on during this time. He says he has regular AC, no climate control. Does this sound familiar to anyone? What happens when winter arrives?
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    What setting is he using on the blower? If it is defog or half defog and half something else, the AC will be operating as part of the defog procedure even though -- at least on our vehicle -- the AC light doesn't come on.

    We have a 2004, and recirculation button doesn't light up unless you press it. That may have changed by 2007.
  • ecotrklvrecotrklvr Member Posts: 519
    I had a 2002, and now a 2007 - both 4-cylinder models. This same thing baffled me for a bit as well, when I first got the vehicle.

    Not only does the AC run in Defrost Mode (whether desired or not!), there is a subtle change to the way the Temperature knob operates. There is a new, subtle detent for "Max" position at full counter-clockwise rotation. This turns on the AC in Recirculation mode. Turn the knob a few degrees clockwise, and now the Recirc and AC can be turned off and will stay off.

    I just leave the knob a little bit off the Max setting, and it operates like the earlier years' models.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Appears to me to be yet another evolutionary change, partially to the good, in the climate control system to help alleviate the various problems arising from using the airflow distribution techniques NipponDenso patented long ago.

    It's probably not such a bad idea to initially run the A/C on a coolish, <65F, but BRIGHT sunny day if the cabin temperature is significantly ABOVE OAT. At least until the cabin temperature, air AND materials/surfaces, has been reduced to the point wherein your comfort level can be sustained by "importing" the coolish outside air.

    BUT.

    It is SHEAR IDIOCY to run the system in recirculate at "this" time, with the interior cabin atmosphere significantly above OAT. It would undoubtedly be best, better, to initially run the system in "fresh" and with a reasonably high blower speed in order to QUICKLY move the overheated cabin atmosphere out the too tiny (intentionally so, DENSO US) EXHAUSTER port.

    It's a puzzle to me how Toyota and Lexus can be sensible enough to tell us to lower the rear windows to quickly remove the overheated cabin atmosphere in this situation and yet at the same time FORCE the climate control into recirculate. Indicates a SEVERE lack of communication between their climate control supplier/designer, NipponDenso, Denso US, and themselves, maybe.

    The obvious proper procedure would be to use fresh mode for that first two minutes and THEN switch to reciculate mode provided there has been no recent episode of coolish or COLD climate operation. NEVER use recirculate in cool or COLD climates.

    IDIOTS...!!

    (Appropreate CR's, line/sentence/paragraph deliniators are present in my original, but...)
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    There are so many of these nowadays that the customer can use to tune out the FLAWED aspects of this design I doubt if I can remember them all.

    1. There is a C-best option that will allow you to prevent the A/C compressor from operating automatically FOREVER if that is what you wish.

    2. There is a c-best option that "unlinks" teh A/C form operating automatically, with NO indication to you of same, in defrost/defog/demist mode.

    3. There is a c-best option to prevent the system from automatically switching from heating mode (footwell and WINDSHIELD outlet airflow) to cooling mode once the cabin atmosphere has been warmed to a level close to the desired comfort level.

    This one is fairly important since one of teh MAJOR flaws in this design is the fact that the interior surface of the windshield is not kept warmed via system airflow in cooling mode.

    4. There is a c-best option to prevent the system from automatically switching to recirculate at initial startup.

    The above list is at least 3 years old and given the extreme level at which this entire design is FLAWED I'm sure that by now there are others, with even more to come. Check with your service manager to get a complete list of c-best options.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    Is it a recall, tsb...other? What costs are associated with them?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    C-best...GUESS = Customer - Body Electronics Setting Techniques.

    Each time I go in to have one changed I am quoted ~$50. But then the charge has always been waved since getting it done is always such a hassle.

    For some reason Toyota and Lexus tries to keep the c-best settings under wraps. The list is almost always "buried" in some drawer somewhere and only "found" if you express CERTAIN knowledge of a given technique, setting.

    And be careful even then, I have had instances wherein teh service manager produced an incomplete list, substantially foreshortened, and tried to tell me that was all there was.

    Since many of these settings can readily improve the safety of a given vehicle I have no idea as to why the secrecy efforts.
  • raul6raul6 Member Posts: 6
    In our garage the other day, my wife parked our 2005 Highlander a lttle too far to the left and I drove our 1993 Camry a lttle too far to the right. Result: Broken left tailght on the Highlander and just a little scrape on the Camry mirror. I ordered and received a new tailight assembly from Autolights ($93 inc freight) but I can't figure out how to replace it (and I feel pretty stupid about it too.) It's not glued in, is it? Anybody out there have this experience? Thanks, Raul6
  • raul6raul6 Member Posts: 6
    Never mind. After a few more minutes of study I discovered that it's only two 10mm nuts and a plastic clip holding the whole assembly in place. Quick and easy fix and looks like new.
  • tomdtomd Member Posts: 87
    I have a 2007 HL V6 Limited and I just put a K&N air filter on it. It definitely seems to be more responsive, e.g., it seems to kick down out of overdrive or into passing gear faster and I also seem to be getting a little better mileage. I will report back on mileage after I've had it in for a while. Anyone else tried these filters?
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    Is it much louder on acceleration?
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    I put one in my 99 CRV a few years ago, no noticeable difference in power, but then again, it's a CRV. I didn't do it for that though, just a better filter hoping for longer engine life.
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