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Toyota Highlander

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Comments

  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    Hi all,
    My wife and I just traded in our 200k camry for an 04 Highlander. We love the vehicle but are shocked at the resonance with 1 or 2 rear windows down or the moonroof open. We have kids in the back so it can be a problem. Has anyone tried to rectify it with rain gaurds on the windows or sunroof? if so how were the results? Thanks in advance, Ryan
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day

    The noise when you wind down a rear window without winding down a front one is a bit of a shock. Unfortunately, the only fix seems to be to make sure you wind a front window down first. Training the kids does not take long as they complain harder than the parents over the buffeting!

    Cheers

    Graham
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    I believe wwest posted some time ago that if you remove the rubber check-valves in the rear side panels it stops most of the buffetting. He may see this and chime in.

    Phil
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    This affects all SUV/crossovers. Our Ford Explorer did the same thing.
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    Thanks for the replys everybody. I have owned a Jeep Cherokee for 8 years and just today noticed it does the same thing! Not as bad as the highlander though...Where are these rubber check valves located? inside or out? On the doors or rear panels?
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    Those rubber check panels are located on the inside of the rear side panels IIRC. I haven't done this mod, I just remember wwest explaining how to do it. Find where the vent grille is and the check panels are directly behind it.

    We never use the moonroof and never lower the rear side windows, so it's been a non-issue for us.

    Phil
  • ghost2010ghost2010 Member Posts: 9
    Can someone tell me if the 2009 Hgihlander Limited comes standard with a remote engine start? A buddy of mine said it comes standard with the remote engine start. Can I see KBB mention it breifly saying it's included in the engine immobilizer feature on the Limited. But I don't see the remote engine start mentioned as a starndard feature on Edmunds or anywhere else.
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    I added a sunroof wind deflector and "normalized" the moonroof. This seems to have taken care of 95% of the problem. It's bearable now.
  • drhagenmayerdrhagenmayer Member Posts: 11
    Does anyone know screw thread size that is used to remove the disc rotors. There are two threaded holes in each rotor that are used for this purpose. Also any tips on removing the rotors that are really rusted on.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The bolts than held the calipers in place work.
  • smallvsmallv Member Posts: 5
    The advice about the caliper bolts seems like a good tip. I've watched them do my brakes at speedy an I've seldom seen them use the removal bolts. Usually, I see then swing a big hammer. I believe they put the lug nuts on to protect the bolt threads and wail on the rotors between the lug nuts. I'm ususally sucessful with a wheel puller but when they are really rusted in place its pretty dangerous to use this method. The last time I had a pair really siezed on, the rotor came off like a cannon ball. Stupid human tricks aside, I do have a few brake change tips to pass on:

    1) Always lower the car ont axle stands and block the tires before you start. Jacks are for raising cars, not holding them in place while you work on them.

    2) Always remove the slider pins and lubricate them using the appropriate lubricant. If they are rusty replace them. Dry or marginally rusty sliders will soon sieze. Siezed calipers cause rotor damage, shimmy and eventual brake failure.

    3) Cross Drilled Roters (After Market) are great but they are directional so left and right matter.

    4) If the brake pistons are too dificult to push back into their cylenders then they are siezed and need to be replaced.

    5) Put a large gag under the master cylender before you start pushing pistons back. This will catch any overflow. Push one cylender back at a time then mount and appy the brakes. If you try to push back more than one piston at a time the master cylender can overfow.

    6) Princess Auto sells a great tools for spreading calipers.

    7) If you go to a garage, never let them machine your rotors. Machined rotors will warp on the next usage and need to be replaced.

    8) Follow a heat break in procedure after installing new rotors. The break-in process is usually included in the box. It involves several repetitions of firm braking from 20 Kilometers to zero.
  • kevinkjmkevinkjm Member Posts: 3
    Does this happen to anyone? We have a 2005 FWD 6cyl highlander which spins out with the slightest touch of the accelerator from a stop or accelerating during a slow turn when the roads are wet. I've been driving FWD cars for 25 years and am quite familiar with torque steer and all sorts of other FWD symptoms if one is aggressive, but the Highlander spins out under the most conservative of driving conditions.

    I thought it was the OEM tires, so I swapped them out with a set of Yokahama Geolanders HTS and didn't really see any difference other than the increased road noise.

    So now I'm puzzled... is it the tires? the vehicle's torque?

    Does anyone else experience this with their Highlander?

    Thanks

    -Kevin
  • smallvsmallv Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2005 ADW V6 Highlander. The traction is amazing. However it is a relatively heavy vehicle with a very spunky engine. 2 Wheel Drive Wheel spin would not surprise me but might be worsened by:

    - Over inflation of tires
    - Siezed Rear brake caliper sliders or parking brakes
    - Poor front wheel alignment
    - Worn-out front suspension

    Your car is old enough that I'd first check the rear brakes. Jack it up, block the tires, put it in neutral and hand turn the rear wheels. The V6 is powerful enough that it can drag around some seriously siezed calipers without a driver noticing too much.

    Try rolling back your tire pressure. Check your driveway or parking lot for Oil patch conditions that could be contaminating the contact surface of your tires.

    Next time, go for AWD. The fuel economy is virtually the same, steering is superior (with VCS Relay removed), tires last longer and stress on the drive train is roughly cut in half.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    #1 "...block the tires..." wheel "chocks"..??

    To #2 I would also add that the slider pin barrells/cylinders should also be cleaned thoroughly.

    I would also suggest that for most of us cross-drilled or slotted rotors are a waste of money and the majority of the time a detriment to braking, loss of CSA frictional surface.

    #4 "..pistons are too difficult.." Hard to qualify "too difficult" absent personal experience.

    To #7 I would add ONLY allow the rotors to be turned/machined if it can be shown that it is truly required using a micrometer.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    We drive a 2004 FWD Highlander with 120,000 troublefree miles, and the traction is amazingly good on wet roads, no slip, no slide. The drivability, traction and steering on wet roads is very good. We drive on Firestone Destination tires inflated to 30 pounds. All the steering and suspension is still original. This is a GREAT car! We plan to be driving it for 5 more years.
    There must be something wrong with yours if you are having traction problems. Get the steering, suspension, brakes, tires & wheels checked.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Your foot is too heavy for the V6, try driving it in snow mode all the time.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "..spins out..."

    TC should INSTANTLY activate, braking the spinning wheel(s) and dethrottling the engine just as soon as front wheelspin/slip is detected.
  • snakeno1snakeno1 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2003 highlander limited. The rear u-joint on the front drive line has some play in it- not bad yet- but in looking at it there is not any snap rings on the outside or c clips on the inside it looks like some sort of pressed in piece in the outside of the cap . am i just not seeing correct or is this something different. anyone know?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    If you are a Toyota owner and interested in sharing your reaction to the recall with reporters, send an email stating the vehicle you own, your telephone number, and the best time you can be reached.

    Send to: karen@edmunds.com
  • jps47jps47 Member Posts: 1
    we have a 04 highlander, we are getting clear water coming in car from several areas. first seen running from pass. side panel pooling on floor by pass. seat. have same problem on driver side and in the back seat area also.
  • loadlorloadlor Member Posts: 3
    Just an idea - do you have a sun roof? Sometimes the drain plugs for the sunroof get clogged and the water can't drain when it rains or snow melts. I live in MN and it happened twice with my Honda.
  • redshewmnredshewmn Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    for the last few months my highlander had a noise coming out from the hood on the passenger side...and really is noticed when I start the car,and put in reverse....even someone asked me at work what was wrong with my car...what could it be....it is like a loud vibration but also seems bad when in reverse......
    any suggestions...please...my husband thinks I am imagining it!! I have over 100,000
    thanks, red
  • smallvsmallv Member Posts: 5
    This sounds exactly like a loose heat shield on a muffler, catalytic converter or some times a heat shield on an exhaust manifold.

    Often it is just a matter of resecuring the heat shield with a replacement screw, muffler clamp or hose clamp. Go for a free muffler inspection somewhere and ask them to check for a loose heat shield.

    Naturally the heat shiled can also be replaced if it is in really bad condition.
  • tarpon6tarpon6 Member Posts: 4
    edited March 2010
    Does this model exist? I am interested in an AWD Sport, and can not find one in stock anywhere (Florida).
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    We've had a few people discussing the Sport in the Ride of Sport vs Limited (2008) topic. Have a look!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    You might want to hold off until the new model when the HL will undoubtedly get the new, more functional. F/awd system already in the new Venza, RX350, and Sienna.
  • tarpon6tarpon6 Member Posts: 4
    I don't see a 2010 Sport anywhere, when will it be out, or are you tlking about a 2011?
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    edited April 2010
    I have a 2004 Highlander. I have always changed the cabin air filter myself and I have always thought the airflow direction was top to bottom. Now I'm not sure. The fan is underneath the filter which makes me think the airflow is bottom to top (unless the fan is sucking air thru it.) The old one is dirty on both sides but dirtier on the bottom side. The manual has an arrow pointing up but I think that refers to the orientation of the tray.

    Anyone know for sure which direction the air flows thru the filter?
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    As mentioned in a reply to your other post, the air goes from top to bottom. It enters through a large oval port under the cowling. You can see it with the fan and filter removed by looking up with a mirror.

    I live in the country and had a terrible time with rodents entering through that port then chewing and nesting on the cabin filter. I had to install a wire mesh over the port, which wasn't easy.
  • eurusdeurusd Member Posts: 1
    2002 Toyota Highlander has had high oil consumption for many years ONLY AT HIGHWAY speeds. I would go months with city driving and not use a drop of oil and then go on a road trip and use 1 quart per 150 miles. Dealer confirmed no engine sludge and replaced PVC valve, but this did not help.

    New valve covers were put on the engine (~$750 as I recall) and this has fixed the problem.
  • nstone101nstone101 Member Posts: 2
    Great experiences towing with 01 AWD Highlander Limited V6 3.0L with 215k. It's the best vehicle i've ever had, all-around that is. It's got the best of every world. Size is big enough to tow but not too big. Still gets great MPG even with 2000lbs trailer. It handles my 5x9 wood decked mesh-reinforced floor utility trailer with a full load, and I work with big appliances and ATV's alot. I actually tested it out when I had my old trailer, put a 2005 kia spectra on the trailer and towed it a few miles just to see. It pulled fine. NOT recommended use for a highlander but hey, you gotta do what you gotta do sometimes. If you ever have a tiny car emergency I suppose you could try towing it. Who knows
  • 05highlander0505highlander05 Member Posts: 89
    Is it best to just stay with a Toyota Navigation system or go with an afterarket. I don't mind my current Toyota factory stereo in my 05 HL, but what I hate is that it has a cassette player...=P

    I'll be honest right now I use my iPhone 4S most of the time for navigation. I feel that it updated more regularly than navigation systems I could buy. I just wish I could mount it somewhere where I can see it better....vent mount, etc....
  • drhagenmayerdrhagenmayer Member Posts: 11
    I hear noise from the rear of my 05 AWD Highlander similar to road noise from rough tread tires. I didn't notice it when I had my winter tires on but can hear it now that I have my summer tires on. I have 60K on it and had both rear hubs and bearings changed 10K ago. Any ideas?
  • chasnet7chasnet7 Member Posts: 1
    Can you describe how you got the mesh over the port? I need to do this also.
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    As best as I can remember:

    I took off the cowl panel at the base of the windshield and bent my arm in awkward ways to press the course screening (1/4" square holes stuff... don't know what it's actually called) over the intake port. That port is under a non-removable piece of sheetmetal.

    Then, with the fan motor and cabin filter removed I put finger gobs of silicone up to "glue" the screen to the cowl from the inside.

    I resisted the temptation of removing that section of sheet metal that was in the way.

    Phil
  • drhagenmayerdrhagenmayer Member Posts: 11
    How critical is it for checking the valve clearance at 60k as stated in the maintanence schedule. This is a pricey job.
  • jrfierojrfiero Member Posts: 123
    For the first style HL, which I think was 2001-2007, what year did the tailights change? Same external shape, different internal pattern, maybe LEDs?

    Thanks,
    Jonas (2001 Ltd (For Sale!))
    Replaced with RX450H
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Are you reading that correctly"

    Insofar as I am aware the adoption of hydraulic valve lifters eliminated that requirement many years ago, like, back in the 80's.
  • jrfierojrfiero Member Posts: 123
    I've been trying to sell my 2001 HL myself, and having no luck.

    I wanted to trade it when we purchased a Lexus RX450H, but the salesman said "don't do that, you'll be leaving thousands on the table. You can sell that car in a weekend!" Ha!

    So, I put in on Craigslist, cars.com, autotrader.com, and kbb, plus talked it up with friends and acquaintances, put up flyers at work, and took it to CarMax for a reality check. Now asking 9999, in the middle of those available.

    No private party interest after more than a month.

    Here are the online value estimates for private party sale, 2001 Ltd 4wd V6, ~105K, loaded, good to excellent condition.

    NADA - 11,475
    KBB - 9962
    Edmunds - 8465

    Notice there is a HUGE difference. I have always tracked my vehicle's values on NADA, since I think/thought that's the source banks use for loan limits. I'll have to rethink that.

    Trade-in values
    NADA - 8875
    KBB - 8142
    Edmunds - 7456

    Notice the NADA Trade-in is higher than the Edmunds retail! Something's wrong here.

    CarMax offered 6500.

    So I'm probably going to get 8250 for it from a friend.

    Beware!

    Jonas
  • moonlight293moonlight293 Member Posts: 23
    The sales guy was probably being flippant but should have explained more. Having sold a couple of cars on my own, I would say that generally speaking, selling it on your own gets you a better price than as a trade-in. A lot depends on the convenience/inconvenience factor. There's some amount of work in getting a car sold. 8250 is still a good price.
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    That's a 12-year-old car with 105k. Never mind the in-service date, the 2013 model year has been upon us for a while.

    No way would I pay $8 for it unless it's super maintained in a rust-free climate and I wouldn't mind eating off the engine.

    Keep in mind that online ads never show you what cars are "going for." They show very precisely what they are NOT going for... ebay's completed auctions can be helpful, though.

    What was the dealer offering you? It appears that your salesman saw trouble looming over the trade-in value, so he sent you on your way. OTOH, if he offer $6,500 -- CarMax tends to be high -- then you're still clearing around $1,500, give or take depending on your tax laws.

    I'm not sure what your boeuf is...?

    Cheers -Mathias
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think the Edmunds price of around $8300-$8500 for a very clean specimen with that mileage was right on the money.

    I did a search on Autotrader and plugged in all the modifiers for your truck and found 172 examples nationwide, from dealers, private party, etc and came up with an average "asking price" of $9250---and since "asking" is always bargained, the $8500 number is looking very accurate to me.

    I'd take your friend's offer and be happy at this point unless you want to hold out for another couple hundred bucks.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    Here are the online value estimates for private party sale, 2001 Ltd 4wd V6, ~105K, loaded, good to excellent condition.

    Well, there's your problem. Ain't no such thing as a good-to-excellent car with over 100k miles. It is average. The end.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited September 2012
    I have always tracked my vehicle's values on NADA, since I think/thought that's the source banks use for loan limits.

    Sure, that's what I heard from my banker friend when I bought my Outback from her.

    I pointed out that her asking price was high because the more the bank can loan out the more money the bank can make. And I've always heard that NADA caters to banks so they can "inflate" their loans. Ditto state taxing authorities.

    I paid closer to True Market Value for it after that conversation. No calls in a month tells me that you are priced too high for your market.
  • johnr21johnr21 Member Posts: 1
    is there a way to make the default display the radio/xm screen and not the map?
  • backsterbackster Member Posts: 12
    Has anyone experienced their navigation/ audio system-shutting off (by itself) while in use and then rebooting? Just picked up my 2013 Highlander limited yesterday. Have driven about 400 miles since pick up and have had the navigation/audio system shut down and then reboot at least 5 times. It has done this both when there is a destination set and when there is no destination set. In all situations the system was connected to my iphone 4S via bluetooth and music was playing via bluetooth

    any and all help will be appreciated!
  • emba129emba129 Member Posts: 2
    I had the same issue on my 2008 HL Sport

    After much investigation I found it to be the rubber gasket on the lip of the hood directly above the grill.
    The way the HL is designed, when you go to open the hood to release the secondary hood lock you naturally stick your left hand under the hood to lift it to release the secondary latch with your right hand. By doing this over time the rubber gasket in this area comes loose because there is a plastic clip in the underside of the hood that comes undone. I pushed it back in and the noise went away. The analogy here is like blowing air between a blade of grass in your fingers, The resonance point is between 40-45 MPH. To help ensure a good seal, I added a piece of foam weather stripping (black) 7/16" x 3/4" on the top of the grill between the grill and the gasket on the underside of the hood.This makes a better seal in this area. Nice and quiet (and now so is my wife!!!) :rofl2:
  • bobw1bobw1 Member Posts: 19
    Does anyone know if the 2013 Highlander is made in Japan or the US. I've seen different web sites list both.
    Also, any one know why Toyota would put a 6 speed A/T in the 4 cyl and downgrade to the 5 speed for the 6 cyl. Doesn't make sense. Thanks....
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Wikipedia says most are made in the US but "some" are made in Japan. Maybe supply just outreaches demand?
  • landonhlandonh Member Posts: 1
    My daughter has a 2003 Toyota Highlander and the other day the blower started making a funny noise and would not produce any air. Later she started smelling something like a dead animal. Her husband took the filter and fan out and found a dead baby opossum in the fan compartment. My question is how did he get in there and is there a remedy for future animals getting in the area? I looked under the hood for a vent pipe but did not see one thinking I might be able to put a screen over it.
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