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Dodge Magnum Maintenance & Repair

13

Comments

  • 05blackpearl05blackpearl Member Posts: 3
    After reading the above posts and talking with some friends I believe it is fuel related. The one time it happened to me I did not just fill up with gas. I had filled up two days before. I believe it is water in the tank. When you turn some how the water is getting into the fuel pump and it shuts the car off. I have put in a few cans of "heat( the yellow bottles that take water out of the fuel) and will see if it every happens again. Thanks for the replies!
  • BlakkMagnum05BlakkMagnum05 Member Posts: 2
    The annoying rattle in the front end is definately bushings, my guess is the weight of the vehicle is making them wear pretty quickly. from the sound and looks of the bushings, it is the large sway bar in the front end. I have an 05, bought it in summer of 04, have 70,000 mi's and the rattle has progressively gotten louder over bumpy roads at any speed, as the miles stack on. if you have any other front end noise, look at your wheel bearings, my driver side front was toast at 50,000mi. The rear differential blew its seal around 55,000 and lost all its oil, fixed it before it siezed (under warranty) prior to it being fixed, I noticed an oil drip under the rear driveline, you could see the oil splash burned to the exhaust pipe that runs past the pumpkin, i took it to the dealership, they said it was fine, not to worry, it kept dripping. I took it to another dodge shop on the east coast during a road-trip, told them to open it up, they realized it was bad and fixed it. beyond this, the car has been pretty solid, put some performance tires on it with the 18in rims and you're good to go.
  • lesson1learnlesson1learn Member Posts: 1
    I'm sure i am not the first to make this statement but they don't make them like they use to, and what ever happened to customer service, here is my story!! i purchased my 2005 magnum in december of 04, i spotted a black magnum while driving down I-10 and said to myself i like that car, yes looks are deceiving, i decided to purchase a new vehicle and headed straight to the dcj dealership, 1st wrong move, we all know soon as you step foot on the dealers property they become your long lost friend act as if they are part of your family even offer their first unborn child anything for a sale. Myself not knowing the tactics and lies they tell to sucker you WITH a piece of crap. Two days of driving around the car just died in the middle of the street, took the car back in but you know the service big excuse "can't duplicate the problem" so it's not our problem. so after many trips back to the dealer for every problem listed here in these forums, i see that i'm not the only person with a pile of crap in the garage, WHAT GOES AROUND WILL COME AROUND FOR YOU CAR MANUFACTURERS AND DEALERS.
  • magnumbelievermagnumbeliever Member Posts: 15
  • magnumbelievermagnumbeliever Member Posts: 15
    Receiving the follow code after check engine light; Coolant thermostat (cooling temperature below themostat requlating temperature). Any thought or ideas as to what is causing this code.
  • kayjkayj Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2004 dodge dakota and i would like to know where can i find the engine number
  • sabobasaboba Member Posts: 5
    my 2005 magnum has an issue when the car is at an idle the light are fine but when it hits 1000 to 1500 rpm it starts to flash and not only do the headlights flash but the dashlights and the emergency flash button flashes as well. no non lighting connceted items flash like the radio. I have had the battery and the alternator tested and they both work fine anyone know what else it could be.
  • mastertech19mastertech19 Member Posts: 4
    i have the same problem on a customers car and i will tell u it will either be the torque rods which run from front of the sub frame to the spindle Quote not the ball joint the bushing in the torque rod cracks and causes the noise just replace both torque rods and it should be fine im told they are 104.00 a peace what ever u do try to stay away from replaceing the lower ball joints they are 900.00 each the whole spindle assembly unbeleavable hope this helps you out which im sure it will good luck oh and make sure to check the end links and the sway bar bushings aswell but unlikely the problem.
  • mastertech19mastertech19 Member Posts: 4
    well i would say your torque rod bushings are cracked replace the torque rods they go from the front of the sub frame to the spindle
  • enzieenzie Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: Hi I own a 95 Dodge 2.7 Magnum and we have been experiencing major brake squealing. We changed the brakes/Rotors $1000.00 plus in repair. We have even brought it back to the dealership and requested all new brakes again! We are still experiencing the same if not worst sounds...almost embarrassing to drive sounds when we go to stop!! :blush: Also at 100 km a continuess loud high pitch squeal will all of a sudden appear and will sometimes go away when we apply the brake sometimes this doesn't help either...HELP! Other than this problem it has been a joy to own! :shades:
  • enzieenzie Member Posts: 2
    :sick: Hi I own a 2005 Dodge 2.7 Magnum and I have been experiencing major brake squealing. I changed the brakes/Rotors $1000.00 plus in repair. I have even brought it back to the dealership and requested all new brakes again! I am still experiencing the same if not worst sounds...almost embarrassing to drive sounds when I go to stop!! Also at 100 km a continuess loud high pitch squeal in the rear will all of a sudden appear and will sometimes go away when I apply the brake sometimes this doesn't help either...HELP! Other than this problem it has been a joy to own!
  • 05blackpearl05blackpearl Member Posts: 3
    last week end took the car to a wedding and the car wouldn't start after the wedding. It wasn't the battery! The car would start then shut off. I tried to turn it over a few times but nothing. I tried one more time and held down the gas(as it felt like it wasn't getting any) and it fired up and stayed running. I took the car to the dealer and $500 later they flushed the fuel system and put in new plugs I thought that fixed it but today the car shut off when I was at a stop light. I love this car but I am getting worried it is not reliable anymore? Any ideas? :confuse:
  • frenchmichelfrenchmichel Member Posts: 2
    Heym

    Im from France and I have couple friends to which this happened on Audis a6.

    When you fill up your gas tank, the volume of the gas injected grows and the weight of the liquid of course increases with it (according to relativity). Problem is, this car has a 71 liter gas tank. When you fill it up and make turns or quick starts, the gas pomp which calculates live the amount of gas needed to run the engine through an electronic devices placed in the computer system of the car, opens up the valves and let go by the gas needed to keep running the engine . Since american cars are not as soffisticated as Germans, the electronic device and computer system in general do not take into its calculus the weight and liter amount actually present in the tank. If its total weight is too high, gas goes into the valve to quickly since the tank weight is heavier than usually, resulting in the engine being overrun by gas that is not able to be consumed. Basically your engine draws over gas, that explains why it shuts down

    Its a problem that is related to the constructor, you need to check you gas pomp and as well your computer system.

    It could happen the other way (dodge could have conceived a computer system that would under run the engine with gas instead of over running it)

    But i'm not very optimistic, i think they will just try to get money out of you since they wont admit such a failure in the design of the car....

    German cars computer system are much more sophisticated than that, that's why they cost more money to fix!
  • frenchmichelfrenchmichel Member Posts: 2
    If you ever watched formula one racing, this happens to their machines sometimes. When pit stopping, if they full the tank to its maximum capacity you can see once they start again an irregular amount of smoke. Sometimes it created little fires too as you can see on that video here :

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izlUXWDv4o8

    Just dont fill up your tank I think you will be fine.

    Fill it all the way to 3/4 of its capacity and don't go under 1/4 either as you may experience the opposite phenomenon
  • wanguswangus Member Posts: 2
    the dodge magnum uses a computer system designed by Mercedes Benz...part of the now defunct Daimler partnership...quite sophisticated.
  • snakebit99snakebit99 Member Posts: 4
    While on a out of town trip, my RF brake seized up while driving, I could smell it burning. Towed into local garage...I just had to replace all of the pads & rotors on my 2007 Magnum RT AWD w/10K miles. The rotors were so rusted the pads were shot, had grooved the rotor so bad they couldn't be turned. The entire rotor assembly was rusted solid 1/16" all over, even on the face. After I got back, took rotors to Dodge dealer. Gee..we know of no problem with these brake systems. Looks like bad cheap chinese steel to me. Anyhow $1200.00 bucks later all is well.
  • 357magnum357magnum Member Posts: 6
    I own a 2006 Dodge Magnum with a 2.7 liter engine. At times it seems to hesitate accelrating from a stop and also while driving. It seems to go away after it has had time to warm up.
    My first thought was one or more bad spark plugs. It has 132,000 km's on it.
    Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks in advance

    Mike
  • jaymagjaymag Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem on my 2006 R/T. I have 50,000 miles on it and it is currently in service for this. (8 months ago the dealership told me it was a gunked up throttle body and cleaned it out. I now have the car with my local mechanic who told me the charcoal canister was full of fuel (actually has caused the car to stall immediately after fueling) and is exploring what he thinks is transmission problems. We'll see what the diagnosis is.
    Jay
  • 357magnum357magnum Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the info Jay. Let me know what they find, if you don't mind doing so.

    Regards

    Mike
  • jaymagjaymag Member Posts: 3
    Hi Mike,
    I got my car back today. My mechanic checked the "computer library" for manufacturer's calibration updates and or corrections. He installed the latest revised calibration ID and cleared the system of all trouble codes and reset the learning adapts. He explained to me that it was much like downloading the latest updates from Windows for my computer. I have only driven the car around town as yet but I do notice it shifting more smoothly and no hesitation. Truth will be told the next time I take it on the highway for a trip. Evidently the vapor canister was a real problem and was replaced as well as the hoses that had been contaminated by holding fuel. Good luck with your car - I love these vehicles and am not ready to part with it yet. My dealer addressed none of this when I took it in 8 months ago with the same problem.
    Best, Jay
  • 357magnum357magnum Member Posts: 6
    Thanks once again Jay. I'll be keeping this info for future reference. For some reason the problem seems to have disappered.
    Sorry for the delay in getting back to you.

    Regards,

    Mike
  • 357magnum357magnum Member Posts: 6
    I forgot to mention, I love mine too and will definately keep it. I keep staring at it like it's a good looking woman (LOL)
  • jaymagjaymag Member Posts: 3
    The saga continues. The day after getting the car back I filled with fuel. At the first stop the car stalled and did so at three consecutive stops. I immediately got my mechanic on the phone - explained the problem and had the car stall while he was on the phone. He said there was a valve attached to the gas tank (fill valve) that he did not look at or replace because it means replacing the gas tank. This is what we did. Evidently the fill valve was malfunctioning and allowing the tank to be overfilled thus sending raw fuel to the charcoal canister which was replaced last week. The car had some significant hesitations on the way back to the mechanic as though the transmission was not sure which gear to be in. The confounding variable is the raw fuel/stalling problem which we're hoping was the case. Another expensive trip to the mechanic. I now have the car back after he tested it with filling the tank - no problem so far. I'll let you know.
    Regards,
    Jay
  • 357magnum357magnum Member Posts: 6
    Sorry to hear that Jay. I hope this solves the problem once and for all.
    I was driving in a heavy rain yesterday and my Magnum stalled twice in the city traffic. Once I moved to the highway it was fine. Not sure what happened there. This car is causing me to worry more and more. It seems to be touchy.
    Guess I'll just look for the next issue with it that comes around. (LOL)
  • mgillimgilli Member Posts: 3
    I was wondering if anyone has ever experienced a default drivers side seat putting low level electric impulses through them while they drive. People think I'm crazy when I talk to them about it. I am thinking of getting rid of My 06 Dodge Magnum because no one can find the problem. Please I
  • jim_j_cjim_j_c Member Posts: 4
    I have an 07 SXT. There is a lever assembly at the end of the cable that will rust and let the small brake shoes hang up ever so slightly. Some times you will notice a rumbling while driving over 20mhp and it will go away in a few miles. Mine was to the point were I had to engage the parking brake while driving (I would not recommend this to anyone!) slowly and let the brake pedal "snap" up by sliding my foot off of it. I took it to my dealer and they could not find the problem. While driving home from the dealer I heard the noise again. It was hung up.. I was "concerned" took the car apart once home and found the problem myself. I had to remove the lever assembly soak it in penetrate and work it back and fourth until it moved freely. Now it seems to be alright. I called the dealer. The service rep told me it was a common problem. I was instructed to bring the car in anyway because the little shoes were also damaged and he wanted the tec to fix it right. I know they really tried to make it right. They changed both sides and so far so good.. I also found the rotors were badly rusted. I also don't drive the car every day. I purchased my car as a left over. It was 8 months old when I picked it up "New" Not sure I would do that again....
  • adfokkeradfokker Member Posts: 4
    i read about diferent persons having the same problems on the front end ,in my magnun 06 the problem was the swar bar links they went bad a 30000 miles aprox ,,i put new ones problem went away ,,now im starting to have the same noise every time i hit a a bump or hole in the road ,,,im sick of this [non-permissible content removed] car ,,im goin to get a performance swar bar kit, dealer suck they told me that the swar bar bushing were wrong and its nothing wong with them ,worst its not cover bar the extended warranty ,you know why because they know that that part will bring problems every 20000 to 30000 miles ,,,,,
  • adfokkeradfokker Member Posts: 4
    you are rigth in thinking the same
    i have several problems on the front end of my magnum i have 2 more years to pay i don`t wont to have another american car ,specialy dodge ,,they all look nice from the outside but the mechanical part really sucks ,,, :mad:
  • adfokkeradfokker Member Posts: 4
    your problem its the swar bar links ,,,they join the sway bar and the shock ,,,
    i had and have the same problem ,,they are chip they are like 11 to 20 $ each in the dealer but here is the thing you are goin to have the same problem after another 15000 miles aprox ,,they suck ,,,,
    im thinking to install a performance swar bar with all the parts associate to it to see if i stop having this problem because im tired of it ...i read about people having the same problem in the magnun looks like its a common problem,,hope it help....
    by the way if you are goin to replace them do it your self its easy and you will save a lot of money,,,
  • adfokkeradfokker Member Posts: 4
    i had the same problem rear seals of the pumpkin leaked they replaced and the front end noises ,,,,the sway bar links ,,,they went bad on my twice every 15000 to 20000 miles im thinking in installing a performance sway bar in the car ,,,of couse i also have problems with tie rod ends ,shocks ,control arm bushings etc etc ...
    great looking cars but a piece of garbage in the mechanical part
  • shendricksonshendrickson Member Posts: 3
    i have the same problem with my 2005 magnum lighting problems flickering dim and bright after starting the car that i just bought. i was wondering if you ever found the problem?
  • sabobasaboba Member Posts: 5
    Not yet replaced my alternator battery and headlights and I still have not found the issue. The dealer in my area tested it and told me the the old battery I had was bad solved problem for a bit but 6 months later it came back an the alternator is still testing good so has to be something else. Let me know if you figure it out please.
  • shendricksonshendrickson Member Posts: 3
    i will let you know if i figure it out. i wonder how many other 2005's have this problem? it reminds me of my mothers old 1976 duster that the lights died coming home one night after shoping. me and my sister were very young and we held two pen lights out to let traffic know we were there. i guess i better keep two flash lights in the car!!!
  • shendricksonshendrickson Member Posts: 3
    i said i would get back with ya after i had it figured out! go to your dealer and its going to cost you for 1 hr service. there is a service bullitin out for the flickering issue. i told the service manager that i thought it was in the ecm and i was right. the flash file# that you need to give your dealer is 18-003-05. my car is fixed from the flash file update. have a merry christmas :)
  • sabobasaboba Member Posts: 5
    Well that fixed the issue with my car as well now the lights work like a normal car. Thanks for the info. Happy new year
  • dustycardustycar Member Posts: 1
    My wife's 2005 Magnum has same problem with lights dimming. So the fix is to take car to dealer for a software update and pony up 70-90 bucks to fix their defect?
  • lifeshairylifeshairy Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Magnum and recently with the cold weather has started to act strange....I warm up on the am for about 10 minutes, get in a turn heat on drive about 1 mile, at 3rd stop light it completely cuts out...it takes 3 to 4 times to get it to run again....now this doesn't happen everyday or every time it is cold...at first we thought it was gas, but then after making sure we had fuel injector cleaner and new tank it has done it several times since...yesterday it actually cut out while turning a corner...I am so worried...the problem is I live in a big town with lots of mechanics that will rape you financially...I am done with the dealer since they changed the oil and it came home with no oil. I have been told it could need a fuel injector system flush..I could understand this if it did it everytime...also had someone say it may need new fuel filter but then a friend said it shouldn't need a new one until it has alot more miles...please help if you have any idea... :cry:
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Since it has started doing this under cold weather conditions, you should have the battery and alternator tested. If either is weak, they will cause the symptoms you are describing. If you need to replace either/both (and if the alternator is weak, you should get a new battery anyway), also include a fresh set of battery cables as well.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • jellobrandjellobrand Member Posts: 8
    Hello all. This is interesting behavior I must say. I have a 2006 RT/AWD with about 48k miles now after three 1/2 years... I've been using 93 oct and royal purple syn since 1100 miles.... Some of the earlier production 05 and possible 06's had some misque's regarding the electrical system around the transmission and engine air mass sync. - I was told by a very good friend who was part of the design group.. Not many ... I really haven't had much to complain about.. I did the plugs at 33k myself. Dealer wanted $400!~ Ha,,, Go pound. I've also read and heard really not to stray to far away from the recommended spark plugs for this HEMI. Hence , every 30k for the normal Champions that came with the car. I was/ Am a big fan of Lucus Gas Cleaner , comes in a little yellow bottle. Half tank gas / Add bottle/ Full Tank - Drive on a nice long trip on the h/w.
  • jellobrandjellobrand Member Posts: 8
    Good Advice - Battery is most likely on the back end of its' life anyway for us with an 06. - Angelo , Berlin NJ - 06 AWD RT
  • lifeshairylifeshairy Member Posts: 2
    Sorry but it doesn't make sense to be the battery and alternator....it didn't act up for a couple of weeks until this am again...it is 45 degrees here...the oddest thing...right before it cuts out the rpm will rev up then cut out....so frustrating.... :(
  • 357magnum357magnum Member Posts: 6
  • dmagnumhemi06dmagnumhemi06 Member Posts: 1
    hey,
    I have a 2006 magnum hemi awd. i was driving on the highway and out of no where the engine is dead. oil light on and power at all. Pulled over and the car wouldnt start. 4 hours and 300$ later a machanic looked at it and couldnt fix it by the way, lol on crank sensor or something sensor. So im going to try and fix that but it sounds like there is more to it then that.i have still read about the gas pump, water being in the fuel, i have to drain the gas and i have to drain the fuel. I jus filled up my tank and was driving around fine till that happened. anything that might help would be great
    thanks
    Dwayne
  • brianjenningsbrianjennings Member Posts: 2
    I just changed the pressure plug on my 5.7 Hemi transmission. It had the "weeping leak" that I didn't know about until my check engine light came on. Repair was pretty easy. Today, after driving it, I got down to see if I had any more tranny fluid leaking and there was none. However there was an awful lot of water dripping (almost pouring) around the transmission housing. Is this the normal termination point for the a/c condensation drain. Have there been any problems with the drain as related to the transmission? thanks for any help!!
  • donny803donny803 Member Posts: 1
    My Mag has 43000 miles on it and I noticed that there was a tinny rattle at lower speeds. I took it to the dealership where they replaced the sway links (not covered under the extended warranty) and the lower struts (warranty). While leaving the dealership I noticed that the suspension was markedly tighter but still had the rattle!
    I made another appointment and the dealership replaced the sway bushings. The Tech took me for a test ride and it STILL made the rattle. ( I wasn't charged for the installation) Finally, The Tech brings the car out again after tightening one of the bolts at the top of the driver side strut housing.....Fixed! There is a service memo that went around to the dealerships about this. I hope this info helps!
  • BlakkMagnum05BlakkMagnum05 Member Posts: 2
    I have a performance update for anyone following the same problems posted back in 2008 (BlakkMagnum05) I Now have 88,600 miles on the odo, the suspension rattle has returned on the driver-side, this is after replacing the struts and shocks, front and rear (Monroe SensaTrac passenger car), and oem front tie-rod ends and swaybar bushings in April of 2009. The wheel bearing on the front passenger side of the car is now making that whirling noise at 30-40 MPH and will have to get that replaced. The drivetrain has been hanging in there, the shifting knock between 3-4th comes and goes depending on the grade of the road and how fast the car is going, it is that "thud" noise. Someday something is going to drop out of the car I feel. I've had this Magnum since Aug 2004, The 2.7 V6 engine has been running very well, very low maintenance, just air filters and oil changes. The huge rear mount battery was replaced with new oem in 2007 and I think it is time for another new one, winter months are approaching and cold starts will be needing cold cranking amps. Keeping the car clean has helped with keeping the finish and the interior is still looking good. I think the suggestion from [adfokker] to replace the swaybar and related bushing with Performance Mods may have a better wear lifetime than the oem parts. Thanks
  • drf341drf341 Member Posts: 2
    My 07 magnum keeps loosing its calibur bolts anyone eles have this problem? i have had to get two new rims now and at least 3 bolts.
  • drf341drf341 Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone tell me why i keep loosing calibur (brakes) bolts on my 07 magnum? It just keeps poping off and i dont know why? outside of killing my tires, its a little scary knowing at any second one could come off and kill my tire while driving
  • tsimagnum07tsimagnum07 Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone,
    Just wanted to let you all know what has happened recently. Just after 87000 miles was driving home from working out of town for the week. Cruising along in 'cruise control mode' everything seemed fine. Got on the gas a little to go around a car and the engine 'shook'. Never did that before. Back in cruise control and everything again seemed fine. In the gas a little and no power and engine shake. Limped it home. Had it towed to a shop. Did not have any 'check engine' lights and no warning that this was coming.

    I am not easy on the car. Drive it fairly strong (I love my hemi). But I do not hammer it all the time and it has never been on a track. Lots of cruising on the highway.

    To make a long story short, one shop pulled the plugs from the front drivers side cylinder and both electrodes were bent in and looked beat up. View inside with a borescope revealed broken piston rings and the shop pulled out 3 small pieces of something off the top of the piston.

    Extended warranty company agreed engine replacement was needed, but would not pay for any inspection work. Ordered a Jasper long block and it has been running well the last few weeks.

    We did not have a broken valve spring. Mechanics said when draining the oil there was a lot of debris that fell out of the pan. Was a hard core mechanical failure of some kind, but do not know what. And I was not in a position to pay for a bunch of inspection work to figure it out.
  • xkeotsxkeots Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a 2006 Dodge Magnum 3.5 6cyl AWD. The car now has 50,000 miles on it.
    Since I bought the car in 08 with 20k on it the dealer has been replacing the rotors on the car every 2,500 - 3,000 miles. Last November I had to pay close to a grand to have all of the rotors replaced and the dealer has had to honor the warrantee by replacing the rotors again every 2,500 miles 5 times. The dealer now tells me that the rotors keep on turning blue and that if they replace the rotors again the OEM rotors will again fail as they have no idea why this is happening. It's not the pads and the calipers are not lagging. I am stumped and the dealer is too.
    I have a loaner car and I had to order from an outside source a complete set of drilled rotors and hope that these do not over heat for about $600.00.
    I have been restoring cars since the mid 1960's and I have only come across this on cars that race and have heavy braking done to stop the car at high speeds. I do not drive this car like this as it is my family car and my 11 year old son is usually in it. It is not a HEMI but a 3.5 6cyl AWD that I bought for snow and better fuel mileage. I will never buy a Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge product again because of this. Their cars are really being made to the bare amounts to pass the safety control of the government.
    The Dodge Magnum was built on the same platform (frame) as the 300 and the Charger. I have spoken to many 06-07 Magnum,300 & Charger owners and they all said that their rotors keep on warping. Chrysler has done nothing to correct this. We all know that they are hurting as 60% of our country is financially hurting too and there is no reason that the public's pocket has to be hurt over a problem that the manufacturer (probably) cannot afford to correct.
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