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Tahoe Suburban Brake Questions

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Most likely your front rotors are warped.
  • jwood3jwood3 Member Posts: 1
    My 96 suburban started having problems with brake lights and cruise control when it rained. Found a group of damaged wires where they pass from body to frame behind the kick panel next to the drivers left foot. I am tall and my foot rests against that panel but it might be more common as there was no chaffe protection for the wires.
  • tazzdeviltazzdevil Member Posts: 3
    I am at a stop with my wifes 02 tahoe. This does not happen all the time.
    The brakes on the tahoe are stiking or dragging. I took the the truck to a local shop and they adjusted the rear parking brakes. last night when I drove the truck it felt heavy, and whe we got home the wheel were very hot.
    This morning I raised the front wheel of the truck and its spins fine so I don't think its the wheel bearing and I don't think there is an adjustment for the brakes.
    Any help will be appreciated.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Which wheels were hot? The rear, were the local shop adjusted the brakes....or the fronts?

    If it is the fronts that were hot, try jacking up the car and turning the wheels after the wheels are hot.....as opposed to when they've cooled down overnight. I suspect you'll find one or both hard to turn. If so, you'll want to replace your front calipers, and might as well do new pads while you have everything apart. Check the front rotors for heat spots, replace rotors if heat spots....or, if you have brake pulsating while stopping.

    Make sure they flush the brake system with new brake fluid.
  • tazzdeviltazzdevil Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the responce,
    All 4 wheels were hot. I took the truck to local auto parts store and they pointed to the brake booster, I went back to the local shop and they said that the brakes don't have adjustment(I knew that), then he said that problem seems to be the brake booster or the master cylinder.
    A friend of mine that works on cars also pointed to the booster. He also said that he would help me install the unit at no charge! It will be in tomorow.
    I will post in a couple of days..
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Personally, I would suspect the master cylinder before the brake booster.
  • tazzdeviltazzdevil Member Posts: 3
    I replaced the brake booster and no more problems. but now I hear a small amount of air coming from inside the brake booster when brakes are applied all the way in.
    I talked to the autoparts store and it will be replace with another unit.
    Thanks on the master cylinder suggestion, I think I'm going to replace that also.since I'm already there.
  • suburban6suburban6 Member Posts: 1
    We have had nothing but brake problems with our '03 Suburban since day one. We repeatedly took it in for a "rubbing" brake noise. No cause was ever found. It has been in with e-brake problems. Had to be replaced because was hanging up. Then last winter the e-brake would freeze and we would be stuck! We were told that this can happen and not to set our brake! Well that is NOT acceptable. We finally took it back to the dealership where we got it and had them replace rotor and all. Last Friday we had park brake cable replaced because it had broke. Now last night the brake froze again!!!! I keep being told to not set it, but this must be a design flaw because we have NEVER had this happen on any other GM vehicle or truck we have owned!

    Any others out there with the same problem??
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Never had a problem with previous GM Truck, or either of the two Suburbans we've had for collectively over 12 years. I think what I'd do on the parking brake problem, is oil that up soo good that any moisture in the cable would be repelled away. That's a pretty mechanical linkage, not sure why they can't fix the problem.
  • milzer1982milzer1982 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 01 burb, 4WD,115Kmi., and same thing happens at odd times. Dealer has told me the fix involves ABS controls and would cost at least 1K but still might not solve the problem! Started originally when ABS engaged in snowy conditions and light would not go out until vehicle turned off. Can't modern diagnostics accurately id a problem like this? I'm not handy enough to mess with it myself... Thanks for any help.
  • chevynut1chevynut1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I just bought an 01 suburban that needed brakes in the rear the sheet metal sheild/backing plate is rusted and falling off. It looks like the axles have to be removed to replace or do they make a split or two piece plate to replace it? Has anyone had this plate rust out and any one ever replaced them themselves? Thanks
  • ajg617ajg617 Member Posts: 5
    Hello, noobie here. Right front rotor on my 96 Suburban separated in two (hub and disc) due to heavy corrosion. I live in the northeast. I know that there was a recall for 88-92 Suburbans used in the "salt belt" area but does anyone know if there were any GM publications covering the 96, TSB, dealership advisory, GM corporate bulletin, etc?

    Also, can anyone tell me how to determine whether or not the rotor is a factory original? I bought the car with 19K on it and I know that they were resurfaced by my dealer but never replaced.

    Many thanks
    AJG
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Had a 97 sub, just recently traded it on a 2007 so had it for 11 years.

    I am not aware of any TSB.

    The front brakes are critical to keep in excellent shape, because of the vehicle weight, the rear drum brakes, and the smaller size of the discs.

    Do NOT go cheap on the the rotor replacement. You can get relatively cheap rotors at the chain autoparts stores, but it pays to upgrade to Bendix (they may have to special order it in). I read a comparison years ago, and the metallic makeup and manufacturing heating and cooling process reduces warping of the rotors that can occur under a heavy braking situation.

    I dont' remember the prices, but I think like a regular rotor is like 30 or 40 bucks, and a Bendix like 50 or 60 each Having replaced a number of the cheaper ones after warping, I can tell you the labor/hassle savings is well worth the $$'s.

    I personally would not consider your original equipment rotors defective having lasted 12-13 years, I'm surprised they haven't been replaced once or twice already.
  • ajg617ajg617 Member Posts: 5
    Yes, looking back, I'm surprised the dealer continued to cut them and didn't say replace them, especially because they were composite. I also had a 95 Suburban and they told me to replace the rotors on that. :confuse:
  • zarkonnzarkonn Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have a 1997 4x4 Tahoe. - 5.7 The other day when I drove it, it came to a complete slow stop on it's own. When I tried to force it to move, I went about 30 feet and the brakes started to smoke along with that wonderful 'burnt brake' smell.

    All 4 wheels seem to be locked up. If I let it sit overnight, they release, but when I try to drive it they lock up again. It happens slowly, it's not a sudden neck jerking stop. I took out the ABS fuse ... didn't help. ANYONE have any ideas as to what this might be?

    Thank you.
  • jarrodrjarrodr Member Posts: 3
    I had these replaced on my vehicle at the dealer. I am sure they would not tell me about aftermarket parts, so I had to have the axle removed to do it. They did one and told me the other one was fine and that I didn't need to do it, but then I was there again in only 12 months having it done again...I wanted them to pay for the labor because I asked them to do both the first time...idiots.

    Although I am mechanically inclined, I don't have the time, so I would refuse such an attempt.

    On the other hand, after spending about $4500 on brakes in three years, I am not longer driving the vehicle...this will be the subject of another posting. Nobody can fix my brakes and they have been worth crap for three years. It's a worthless vehicle now and dangerous to drive.
  • jarrodrjarrodr Member Posts: 3
    I am seeing the same problem with my 2001 Suburban 4WD. The rear brakes are shot everytime I go in...in only a few thousand miles since the last time. Personally, I don't even think the front brakes are working as I cannot get this beast to stop. After $4500 in brakes in 3 years I have parked it. It is dangerous to drive and 4 different mechanics have done nothing but put new parts in with virtually no improvement in braking. There is something terribly wrong with the brakes on this truck. I am DISGUSTED with it. I prefer my old 1993 Bronco...tip toe the brakes and they start to grab. fantastic things...and only $14 for a caliper and they are the simplest things too.

    Anyone know of an aftermarket system from master cylinder all the way through calipers pad, drums, rotors that will work here?
  • deanstingerdeanstinger Member Posts: 1
    What did dealer charge to pull rear axle and change backing plate?
  • jarrodrjarrodr Member Posts: 3
    It was all part of the repairs which cost over $600, but I believe the axle alone, with nothing else was over $300 of that...and that was several years ago. If you have one replaced, DO BOTH even if they tell you it isn't necessary. That's what they told me and 12 months later I was paying the $300 plus again to have the other backing plate replaced.
  • rob81377rob81377 Member Posts: 2
    i went out to my truck one day to find my rear driverside tire was wet all around the inside of it and on the ground. all the brake fluid ran out i took the drum off to find the wheel cylinder piston came out on one side. so i went and got a new one installed it and the next day i had the same problem. anyone know what the problem could be? any help would be much appreciated.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    are the shoes adjusted correctly?
  • rob81377rob81377 Member Posts: 2
    i am not sure, i was thinking maybe the drum is wore down so far that the pistons come out too far. how would i adjust the shoes to stop this problem?
  • pnrsmpnrsm Member Posts: 1
    I tried to replace the rear disc brakes on my '02 Suburban 2500 and could not figure out how to remove the rotors. Does anyone know the secret to getting the rotors off?
    Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Not sure why you would be removing the rotors if changing the pads......

    But you need to make sure the parking brake is off, and remove any push nuts from the wheel studs (if there are any).

    Whack the end of the hub with a deadblow hammer, if you have to, to separate the rotor from the hub.
  • vygartvygart Member Posts: 1
    when i push the brake pedal on my suburban it sounds like the anti lock activates.I dont have to push very hard.sometimes it wont stop when i let up on the pedal. there arent any warning lites that come on and the brake lites and tutn signals work fine. ido notice this seems more prevelant when it is wet out any ideas.
  • billscamarosbillscamaros Member Posts: 1
    i have an '01 Suburban 1500 4WD ... they might be different .... you'll have to take the caliper support bracket off to get the rotors off .... i just did this job this weekend.
  • mlinggamlingga Member Posts: 60
    Just got the Burb back from dealer for what turned out to be a dying fuel pump (interesting, as it manifested itself first as a "Stabiltrack Off" and "Traction Control Off" warning light, then increasing trouble starting--dealer says that "Check Engine" light turned off the stability/traction control module--weird).

    At any rate, at 70K miles, dealer says rear brake pads need replacement. Wanted $400. Then said "brake fluid looks really dark, needs replacement" for another $175. The pads don't surprise me (though the price does). However, is the "dark brake fluid" the typical dealer scam? There's no mention of fluid replacement requirement in manual. Or is this a real problem? I took it home anyway as I figure I can get this done cheaper at an independent shop.
  • bountyhunter2bountyhunter2 Member Posts: 3
    I just changed the rear brakes on my Burb. I did not know the brake pad bracket just slides off the pins. I first tried to remove the pins and after awhile realized nothing was happening they were just spinning. I tried to tighten the pins up but they just keep turning and do not get tight. Is this normal or did I screw something up?
  • bountyhunter2bountyhunter2 Member Posts: 3
    I just changed front and rear pads on my suburban. My local auto part store had good,better and best. I purchased the best for 140.00 for all four wheels. Changed all four and rotated the tires in about two hours.
  • mlinggamlingga Member Posts: 60
    Sadly, I am dangerous with a wrench in my hand and will have to pay a professional to do that!

    PS: did you change brake fluid? When is it necessary?
  • bountyhunter2bountyhunter2 Member Posts: 3
    No I did not change the brake fluid but I really should. I think its one of those things that gets over looked. Im leaving for Vt. in a couple hours but when I get back I think I will flush mine. We just flushed out my sons liberty with 40k on it and the brake fluid looked like Jack Daniels. I was looking at those speed bleeders to bleed and flush.
  • bjdistler43bjdistler43 Member Posts: 1
    Just replaced rotors calipers and pads. bled the system and pedal feels good when i went to drive it there was a loud noise like the pads were dragging. Not enough to notice any difference in acceleration but enough to make new rotors very hot in two miles and noise is very loud. Any ideas?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    If you paid someone to do it, take it back.

    If you did it yourself, sounds like you didn't get something back together correctly....or you have used the wrong parts.
  • thalcisakthalcisak Member Posts: 1
    01 Suburban 5.3 73K on it. Took it to the dealer and put it on the computer. They told me i need a new ABS module. I remember reading on here that there is a guy our there who rebulilds them for a resonable price. Dealer wanted $1700 (not a typo). If i can find the right one I can replace it. Also, does anyone where the ABS module is located? i just haven't looked yet.
  • bad99yukonbad99yukon Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Yukon, Owned for 2.5 yrs, did complete tune-up when purchased, since that time replaced dist cap 4 times, each time inside of cap was corroded, then replaced complete dist with new unit, 6 months later I now have a general engine misfire, this engine has 161,000 miles on it, I put 40,000, during this time #6 plug also grounded out on long trip, any ideas on what to do with ign system, do I need to go to after mkt Dist ???
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