Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

GMC Jimmy Starting and Stalling Problems

2456

Comments

  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    First is the cap/rotor new and not a cheapo aftermarket. Plugs and wires, good spark, clean air and fuel filters???

    Clean the MAF with spray cleaner (brake, MAF, electronic - but not carb). Test your fuel pressure - need a $35 tester that connects to the fuel rail and key on engine off should be 60psi min top start - that initial pressure up cycle runs for like 2 sec then pump shuts off so press drops 2-3 lbs nd should not drop rapidly after. Running press about 54psi but less than 50 is a problem. Next if this is mainly an idle problem I would look at the idle air control and the port in the throttle body - have to take throttle body off vehicle to replace and clean the port the IAC valve opens and closes for air to set the idle. Then if still a problem I would supect the crank sensor as intermittant.
  • lizb1lizb1 Member Posts: 2
    well i went to autozone, b/c now my engine light is on, and they said the code came up as an EVAP (evaporative emission system) which could be a loose fuel cap.... which is not, evap canister or hose cracked or not connected, purge or vent solenoid defective, vacuum leak at engine. I also told them the vehicle has been in the garage 3 times in the past month and told them the plugs and wires were changed and the fuel pump, they said if there is a plug that wasnt changed it could be causing it, and they also said the guy sounds like hes just trying to make some cash. a customer overheard the conversation and said he had the same problem and it ended up being a sending pump or valve....something like that. the thing that sucks is i cant do anything until i get paid next week so right now i'm kind of stuck with driving it like this. i dont know but its really frustrating not knowing if my car is going to stall out while driving...or if it will even start.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    All the lines are connected to the fuel pump top - look above the gas tank and the evap can is rear of drivers side rear wheel so get the guy who did the fuel pump to check all his connections - probably simple thing. But never said year or mileage and did you get the code erased and see if it returns after the gas cap was clicked on for sure - may not so thats the first step.
  • e5husmce5husmc Member Posts: 6
    My wife's Jimmy has had this problems 3 different times now. She has driven it somewhere and turns it off for a short amount of time (less than 1/2 hr.)while she runs into a store or somewhere. When she tries to start it, it cranks and acts like it's going to start but doesn't. She waits about 10 or 15 minutes (takes me longer to get to where she is) and it starts right-up and everything is fine. This has happened 3 times since the first of this year. Only other problem we've had is the fuel guage was messed up around Christmas but after tightening some connectors it has worked fine. Any ideas where to start troubleshooting as the problem doesn't occur when I'm around. Also, where is the fuel pump test connector on a 98 Jimmy?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Test the fuel pressure, new filter and check relay. If OK then on to electrical or sensors. Cap/rotor would be a good start and don't use cheap auto store bargin ones - Delco or Standard have not had problems. Some fall apart and a pain to find as internal arcing. Then If no codes you need to check the coil and wires. Then intermittent crank sensors can cause this and don't always set the SES light. There are many other possibilities and these are a few.
  • ftorres00ftorres00 Member Posts: 8
    I've a 97GMC sonoma 4.3 truck with "automatic" transmission. It stalls once in a while, either while I'm in the highway or in a stop/signal light with out any indication nor hesitation. If it happens in a stop/signal light it will start with no problem (by turning the key On), but if I am in the highway it turns back on immediately by it self (with out turning the key On). The "check engine light" doesn't come On, so there is no code. This is driving me crazy since is my grandfather's truck and I really want to help him. Thanks for your help!!
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    @ things come to mind:
    97 only known for a defective ignition switch thats really the column wiring and connector.
    Second is if only at idle there is an idle air control valve on the throttle body that can cause that - one of mine did that randomly every few weeks and that was it - so watch for an rpm swing or slight surge other times that should'nt be there and thats probably it. Have to pull off vehicle to get to and clean the air port in the throttle body at the same time that the IAC plunger seats in.
  • ftorres00ftorres00 Member Posts: 8
    Thank you so much for answer that quick. I think you're correct about the ignition switch, because the truck turns On/Off really fast even when is running 30, 45 or even 75 mph. The rpm are constant , no noticeable surge. I'll replce the ignition switch as soon as I can, and I'll let you know. Thanks again Mr. repairdog :)
  • gearyrgearyr Member Posts: 2
    I have a 94 Jimmy with the 4.3 CPI engine. It runs fine till I stop at a red light. It will cut off. I hear the fuel pump kick on when I try to restart it. It will finally start back up. I have not drove it in a year. I got it started back up. I need to replace the fuel filter once I get all of the old gas out. Put a bottle of Seafoam cleaner in. I have alsway had trouble with the igtion control module. Will have it checked out. I am almost afraid to drive it. My drive to work is 43 miles 1 way. Any help? Thanks, gearyr. :cry:
  • sueasuea Member Posts: 2
    97 GMC Jimmy with 103,500 miles V6 4.3 ~ I've had no trouble with this SUV. I bought gas and a few hours later it had trouble starting. Started real rough. Started driving and almost stalled at the light. I gave it gas and it did not stall. If I started to slow down it seemed like it was going to stall. Got home and changed the air cleaner. It started right up! YAY I thought! I went to drive it and it had trouble starting again and stalled when I put it in reverse. I tried to start it again and I heard kind of like a backfire under the hood, it was not a real loud sound. Now it won't start, it turns over like it will start but it doesn't. I have no dash board lights when I turn the key, no air bag light, no light to tell me to buckle up. I do have head lights and my power windows work.
    Thanks for your help!
    Sue
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Well, first the 97 only model (your lucky day) has a known defective ignition switch which is actually the wiring and connector in the steering colums that can cause that. Or maybe bad gas, clogging fuel filter, or something failed underhood such as an ignition component - hard to say without being theer and testing, sorry.
  • sueasuea Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, we are pretty sure it is the ignition switch. We are having a hard time getting the steering wheel cover off. We got the bottom cover off but cant get the top off :mad:
  • bmath72bmath72 Member Posts: 4
    I had the same problem earlier in the year. I took my Jimmy to AutoZone and rented their tester. I hooked it up right there in the parking lot. I then took the tester and the trouble code back into the store and had them look it up. Turns out it was the EGR valve. I could either remove and clean it, or just replace it. I opted to replace it for about $85. The EGR valve mounted right in front of the intake manifold at the front of the engine. Easy fix. Problem went away. Hope that helps.
  • cornbreadcornbread Member Posts: 3
    For the past couple of months I have had problems with my Jimmy starting. I have replaced the fuel pump, radiator, ignition coil, wires, spark plugs, rotor, and dist. cap. The engine will turn by will not crank. When it first started it would crank after about 30 minutes of trying. Now I'm getting nothing. I've even tried putting a little fuel in the throttle body to see if maybe it was not getting fuel but, it still would not kick over. Getting very frustrated. Please Help!
  • cornbreadcornbread Member Posts: 3
    I've read that if the fuel cap does not have a good seal the tank may not pressurize and will not send sufficient fuel pressure to the fuel pressure regulator. Well, what about the vapor return line connector on top of the fuel tank? If its cracked, wouldn't it have the same effect? :confuse:
  • cornbreadcornbread Member Posts: 3
    I finally got my truck started. And all I did was take out all of my spark plugs and cleaned them up with carburator cleaner. They were slightly fouled but still in good condition. I still need to replace my catalytic converter and oxygen sensors though.For those of you that are having the same problem as I am, before you spend alot of money please try this with your spark plugs.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Wonderful! Thanks for the tip.

    You might consider writing up a Guide - see the link at the top of this page.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • ipa1ipa1 Member Posts: 1
    DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEA, I WOULD APRECIATE THE HELP. I GOT A 97 JIMMY V6 THE CAR WON'T START.
    THERE IS NO SPARK FROM THE COIL.
    I HAVE CHECKED THE WIRES TO THE COIL, TO THE STARTING MODULE, AND TO THE CAM SENSOR THERE IS NO POWER TO ANY. I FOUND AT THE AUTOZONE SITE THAT IF THERE IS NO POWER ON THE CAM SENSOR TO CHANGE THE FUSE BUT I HAVE NO IDEA WHICH FUSE, OR WERE IT MIGHT BE. I HAVE CHECKED THE FUSES IN THE FUSE BOX INSIDE THE CAR. AND THEY ARE ALL FINE.
  • tommy21703tommy21703 Member Posts: 3
    my fiance the other day was driving my 1996 Jimmy 4X4 when out of now where while stopping at a light it stalled....she said she didnt even relized that it had stalled out if it wasnt for seeing the battery light come on as if it was in aux. Not to long after her and her friend had smelt a burning smell from the inside of the car and she said it seemed like the car wasnt giving the power it normally did. After she came home I myself toook the car out and everything seemed fine and i had no smell what so ever. Any one know what itcould have been?
  • puffball99puffball99 Member Posts: 3
    Okay where to start, oh yea, I HATE THIS VEHICLE!! Okay, having problems w/ a 97 jimmy starting. All electrical come on but it is not trying turn over or anything when you try to start it. When I flip on the head lights on, the radio and the overhead temp/gas milage turns off. We have already this year replaced the fuel pump, tune up, new distributor cap and I believe that is all. I'm so frustrated w/ this damn vehicle, please help someone if you can????? I was also told that maybe the starter was going out, it has never been replaced.
  • gemini1412gemini1412 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 blazer with just over 100,000 miles on it. It's doing the same thing (which is why I signed up). It won't start and 10 minutes later it starts, but only with a full pedal to the floor and it sputters, but eventually it starts. My mechanic says it starts fine at the shop and can't figure it out either. It's doing this a couple time a week at this point. It wouldn't start at the gas station the other day. Cars behind me wanting to use the pump. No fun indeed.
  • gemini1412gemini1412 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 blazer with just over 100,000 miles on it. It will sound like it's cranking and wants to start, but just won't. 10 minutes later it starts, but only with a full pedal to the floor and it sputters, but eventually it starts. Then it's fine for a couple days. Then the starting trouble again for a couple days. Just had a full tune up with all fluids and filters changed, new oxygen sensor. My mechanic says it starts fine at the shop and can't figure it out either. It's doing this a couple time a week at this point. It wouldn't start at the gas station the other day. Cars behind me wanting to use the pump. No fun indeed. Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks.
  • immanaimmana Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 4.3L GMC Jimmy. The problem now, which is similiar to one I had a year ago, is the car wont start on the first attempt. The starter cranks, but engine will not turn over. Usually on the second try it will start but past few days takes 5, 6, 7 times before starting. Also- when it is running, I noticed that when I am cruising the car jerks forward like I am tapping the gas pedal quickly. Not sure if this is related anyway to starting problem.

    In past 18 months I have changes: starter, plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotors, fuel injectors (spider), fuel pump, exhaust system, battery terminals, and a faulty wire in the ignition system.

    My Mustang GT had a simiiar problem starting and I replaced the EGR valve (???) or something like that! Could it be the same problem? Thanks!!
  • wljlds2wljlds2 Member Posts: 14
    HEY repairdog. Looking for some help. I am working on a 95 GMC Jimmy 4.3. My daughter purchased this truck when I told her not too. Long story short, this is a piece of JUNK. This truck has several problems.

    Original problems when purchased a few weeks ago:

    Previous owner replaced fuel pump and filter because the truck would not start. (lack of maintenance)

    Engine running very rich and dies.

    I was getting an EGR code so I checked out. The EGR was showing as energized when the engine was cold. Replaced the EGR and now the EGR works ok until engine stalls then I get no EGR code.

    I found that the fuel regulator and fuel return line were leaking inside the plenum so I opted to replace the line kit and the spider. While I was there, I gave the truck new plugs, cap, button, and wires. Can we say $$$$$$$$? Plugs fouled out on 1-3-5 bank. Wires old and hard. Cap and button had normal wear.

    The trucks runs so much better, but it will stall or lose throttle response while driving or at a stop. I feel that the money that I have spent was not in vain, because everything replaced was bad or in need of replacement.

    I am now at the end of my rope with fear of throwing money into a black hole.

    I do hear the fuel pump whine vary while placing foot on the brakes (not sure if this relevant) another porblem of its own.
    :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • puffball99puffball99 Member Posts: 3
    My Dad had the same problem on a 97, while driving it would die. I now have the truck (oh so lucky) and we had to replace the ignition switch last year and it stopped that problem. Just a thougth on maybe something that might be the cause of that, but not sure =)
  • zonplyrzonplyr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Jimmy, 4dr. 4x4, when the key is turned to on none of the lights or radio come on and none of the gauges light up. Needless to say it won't crank over either. Battery is brand new and load tested. Could this be the key cylinder or the ignition module? Any help is appreciated.
  • wljlds2wljlds2 Member Posts: 14
    Check all main power fuses and links if you have no power to the fuse panel. A bad module would be a no start not a no crank. Obtain a repair manual from a local auto parts store for reference. Back trace your power supply from the battery with a volt tester or wire tracker.
  • drbobme1drbobme1 Member Posts: 5
    98 Jimmy, V6 Engine, Auto, Clear weather, normal start. After a rain starter runs fine, no start until many tries. Then some misses then runs fine. No problem driving in rain. When it does start it is instant start and then some missing and then no problem. Almost like water in fuel. But with sealed system how can water get in. After a rain I open up the hood and engine is dry. No signs of water on any connections. Changed plugs at 90,000 miles, Engine has 93,000 miles. Any help out there?
  • puffball99puffball99 Member Posts: 3
    We had that problem to after it rained, except it took a few days to start for the most part. We had the distributor cap replaced and it solved that problem.... :cry:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Yep, if that is the original cap and rotor I would start there. A little moisture in the distributor cap can cause lots of weirdness.
  • jflo520jflo520 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 98 Jimmy and recently replaced the ignition switch after the key got locked in it. Now it will start, but dies almost immediately. I changed the fuel filter and can hear the fuel pump engaging, so can anyone help me figure out what might be wrong with it? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated! Jennifer
  • jamilynn2000jamilynn2000 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2001 Jimmy that I've had so many issues with. I just replaced the fuel pump 3 weeks ago. Now it's stalling when I come to a stop. The service engine light came on & when I had it tested I was told it was an emissions leak? Then I took it in to the shop (3 times this week) and the truck does nothing??? No service engine light, drives fine for them. As soon as I leave (and the shop's closed) it stalls?! As a guess they installed a crank position sensor yesterday. Seems a little better today but.....Has anyone else had to replace this???
  • wljlds2wljlds2 Member Posts: 14
    A bad EGR or IAC can cause this problem. If either one stays open while letting up on the gas pedal or at a stop, stalling can happen. Also, being you replaced the fuel pump, the higher pressure could have finished opening up a cracked fuel return line inside the plenum which causes the engine to run rich because there is fuel inside the plenum. Generally speaking though, a bad EGR and IAC will throw a code (check engine light will come on).
  • wljlds2wljlds2 Member Posts: 14
    If your Jimmy has the anti-theft key (chip in the key) and you replaced the ignition with a new key that is also an anti-theft key, you will have to have the new key programed to your vehicle.
  • jamilynn2000jamilynn2000 Member Posts: 6
    Thank you:-) I'm going to see how it drives today & let the shop know!! THANKS AGAIN!!!
  • jflo520jflo520 Member Posts: 5
    No anti-theft key. I'm thinking it's probably an electrical issue? But, thanks for the reply!
  • jflo520jflo520 Member Posts: 5
    Is there a fuel pump cut off switch somewhere that I can reset?
  • wljlds2wljlds2 Member Posts: 14
    I'm not sure about a cut-off switch causing the problem. Normally if the cut-off switch is tripped, you have to reset it before the fuel pump will even start. Clogged filter or bad fuel pump can cause this problem. Check your fuel pressure. I think it should be around 55 - 60 psi with key on, engine off, and around 50 - 55 psi with engine running. This would also be a good time to check leak-down of the fuel injector. If pressure is good, leave the pressure gage on and see how long it holds pressure with the key off. This should last at least 10 minutes. You also have fuel pump relay in the glove box (I think). If the relay is bad, it will shut down your pump. If the relay is in the glove box, there should also be a horn relay next to it. They both look alike and are the same. You can switch the two relays around (one for the other) and if the problem goes away, then the relay was bad. If not, then the relay is ok. Double check the security/anti-theft if applicable by locking and unlocking your system with the key at the door.

    So in short, I would check things in this order.

    1. relay
    2. fuel pressure

    3. replace filter if pressure is low but holding
    (but you replaced it)

    4. check for voltage drop at fuel pump (should be 12 volts)
    5. replace pump if pressure is still low
  • jflo520jflo520 Member Posts: 5
    I put the old ignition switch back on and now it's starting and running just fine. Could AutoZone have given me the wrong part or maybe a bad one? Hopefully it continues to start and run right. I appreciate all your advice and if it happens again I will be sure and try the things you suggested.
  • wljlds2wljlds2 Member Posts: 14
    It could be possible that you got the wrong ignition from AutoZone. The reason that I was focusing on the security aspect is that this all happened after you changed the ignition switch and that if something else was wrong, it would be purely coincidental, like you know, one in a billion chance. My personal opinion is to stay away from AutoZone when it comes to electronics of any type and most other things. I have been turning wrenches for thirty years and I have narrowed it down to a few sources that I use and trust. Advance Auto, NAPA, and Car Quest. I stay away from parts manufacturer names like Wells, Master, and Exact. Stick with names that are trusted like; AC, Autolite, Bosch, Standard, GP Sorenson, and OE names. If I were you, I would establish a good relationship with one or two very well established parts stores that have knowledgeable sales people and strong management. I have done this over the years and it has been very helpful. I establish cash commercial accounts and treat them as if I want to be treated. This gives you negotiating power. I get commercial pricing and I like to beat them down on prices as well from time to time. Example is like when I replaced a radiator in a 95 Jimmy, I purchased it for 123.00. I even get delivery service if time is on my side. I take in doughnuts from time to time; this will win you friends every time.
  • wljlds2wljlds2 Member Posts: 14
    Previous owner lied. They did NOT :mad: :mad: replace the fuel pump as they said. I dropped the tank and pulled the pump out. The sock filter was not on the pump and all kinds of trash :sick: was in the pump pick-up. It was like trying to breath through a pillow :P . I cleaned the tank and replaced the pump with a new bosch pump and filter. Runs like a champ. :shades:
  • don_willliamsdon_willliams Member Posts: 2
    it is getting gas to fuel pressure check valve. i was told i need to bleed the fuel injector is this right, and if it is how do i? does someone know how a site that would show step by step how to do this?
  • wljlds2wljlds2 Member Posts: 14
    Fuel injector's bleed themselves when they open. If you are getting 55-60 psi of fuel pressure with the key on engine off, then pressure is good. I assume you have a 4.3V6. If you do, the injector is inside the plenum and you must remove the upper plenum to access the injector. You do have a fuse that is for the injector(s), check it. Do you have spark? You have several fuses and relays that can affect the no start. Purchase a Haynes Repair Manual at a parts store for around $20.00. I dont know what all of the problems that you have, but in short, get the manual if you plan on doing things yourself.
  • don_willliamsdon_willliams Member Posts: 2
    i have fire, can get the jimmy to run if i manualy pour gas through the choke. i have a manual (chilton) not much help so far anymore ideas really appreciate it. get all kinds of pressure at the fuel check valve on the fuel rail. so i think maybe the fuel injector. could that be it?
  • gpatemangpateman Member Posts: 5
    My '98 Jimmy won't start easily in the mornings. Turns over but takes a few times of key on and off to start.

    However, it starts up like a new vehicle on my lunch break and after work. I'm puzzled. Please help. I've changed both the fuel filter and fuel pump last year and haven't had trouble since until now.

    Any ideas???
  • wljlds2wljlds2 Member Posts: 14
    Me thinks that you may have a bad distributor cap (if equipped) if you have 4.3 V6. When was the last time a tune-up was done?
  • wljlds2wljlds2 Member Posts: 14
    Yes, you could have a bad injector providing there are no blown fuses. I assume that you have a 4.3 V6. Pull your oil dip-stick and see if you are getting gas in your oil. If you suspect gas in the oil, remove the cover on the upper plenum and remove the manifold tuning valve and look inside the plenum. There should be no presence of gas inside of there. If there is gas in the plenum, you have a cracked or broken fuel line. This common for the 4.3 that has the spider fuel injection system. If you see clean areas, you have a leak. This is a easy but expensive fix. I replace the spider when I replace the fuel line kit. If the lines are broken or cracked, do not repair the lines, replace the lines with a new kit.
  • drbobme1drbobme1 Member Posts: 5
    Hi,

    Had similar problem. Found a breakdown on the coil to distributor high voltage wire inside the plastic protective cover. A pin hole area was covered with white high tension voltage arching. Replaced wire from a new set of spark plug wires, thread it into the protective covering and everything is fine.

    Hope this helps.
  • gpatemangpateman Member Posts: 5
    Thanks....I'll try looking at both the distributer cap and rotor (haven't done it in over 65000 miles).

    I'll also check the high voltage wire from the coil to distributor..

    Any other ideas before I start?
  • jamilynn2000jamilynn2000 Member Posts: 6
    I have now had my Jimmy at 3 places & one was a GMC dealer. The dealer said my fuel pump was bad that I just replaced. So, after replacing it & the fuel filter AGAIN it stills stalls mainly in the morning when I'm heading out for the day, but will start right up in the afternoon with no hesitation?! Is it possible that the fuel pressure regulator is bad??? I'm at my wits end with this vehicle? HELP!!!!
Sign In or Register to comment.