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Volkswagen Passat Sludge Issues
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Comments
Thanks for your response. Like your comment about your receipts ;-))
Your advice is priceless and will prove very useful.
For what it's worth, I received an answer from pelicanparts yesterday, they say both filters fit the same, the only difference is the brand.
I went to the local Autozone last night, got Mobil 1 0W40, as well as the matching filter (Mobil 1 M1-301) they recommended. They have a deal I won't advertise here but it's worth it I think (I am NOT affiliated in any fashion).
Now it's just a matter of crawling under the car..
Thanks again for your help, wish me luck.
altair4, I wanted to say thank you again.
I changed the oil myself last week, so far so good. I used the oil and filter I mentioned before.
As for what you called belly pan, yes, I removed that large plastic cover, also noticed there were not very many of those half-turn screws left (only 3).
I was able to get to the filter (i'm skinny) without taking the hose off. You can wedge your arm in there but it's tight. I used an old leather belt to screw the oil filter on and off, worked pretty well. I checked regularly after the oil change, I have not noticed any leaks so far. I wiped the filter with a paper towel a few times, there is no leak either.
I will change the oil it every 3000 miles; during the week my trips are very short (2mi), and VW does recommend more frequent oil changes in these adverse conditions.
Voila :-)
Wish me luck; good luck to other Passat owners as well.
Regarding those belly screws...the front ones are important, especially that 10 mm nut on the front. If these fail while the car is at speed, the bellypan drops to the road surface and self-destructs. The back ones are important, too, if you live in an area that gets lots of snow. If they're missing, the pan can kind of act like a snow plow and break the belly pan.
Thanks,
Garyb2
I am no expert on these things, but first let me say I think you need to get a second opinion from a reputable mechanic (VW preferably, but not at the same garage you are currently using).
Second I have these thoughts on the problem...
In order for an alternator to generate electricity the field needs to be energized. This is done (to start with) from the battery voltage. I would check the field terminals to see if there is voltage there when the car is running. If not you have to find out why... a loose connector on the battery? broken wire? bad ground? at the alternator?
Since the alternator light is not on I expect that the alternator is working, but the connection to the battery is faulty. This can be confirmed by measuring the voltage out of the alternator... it should be around 14 volts when the car is running.. if it is working properly. If you are getting 14 volts at the alternator, check the voltage at the battery. If this is not 14 volts when the car is running, explore the connections between the alternator and the battery.
I once had a Chevy Cavalier where a heavy wire had a small hole in the insulation and antifreeze leaked inside. This caused the copper wire inside to corrode and eventually disintegrate to the point where it would not conduct electricity any more. The wire looked intact but the conductor was not.
I would not think the vehicle control unit would be participating in the actual charging of the battery. You do not mention replacing a regulator but then a lot of times those are actually part of the alternator. Check to see if it is a separate component, this would be less expensive to replace than the vehicle control unit.
Part of the field circuit is a 'exciter diode' assembly it converts the alternating current to direct current to be fed back to the field (in case the battery does not have enough juice to properly energize the field). This is actually part of the regulator in some vehicles, in others it is part of the alternator. If your car has a separate regulator and that was not replaced it is possible this 'exciter diode' is faulty and not properly energizing the field.
I hope this helps.
Jim M
:shades:
Is this likely a coked up intake screen? Any thoughts on cleaning this kind of blockage without dropping the pan, a real p.i.t.a. and $750?
thanks y'all,
M
The only time I have seen that "STOP" indication on my dash, it was accompanied with the OIL light. However, after having the codes read (they wanted to replace the cam adjuster mechanism $750 for the part!) and having the car stall and refuse to run for 10 to 15 minutes. I had a conversation with the VW technician. We came to the conclusion that the Cam Position sensor was faulty. This is on the outside of the 1.8 engine block and cost me about $250 to have replaced.
That was two (or more) years ago and I have not seen the Oil indicator or the "STOP" message since.
I actually ran some "Auto-RX" through my Passat and took the oil filter apart to see if there was any sludge dislodged. There was none. I have had synthetic oil at each oil change (every 5000 mi) since I owned the car more than 4 years ago.
It is a difficult process to take the oil filter apart but if you are mechanically inclined it might be worth the effort to see if you do actually have a sludge issue.
I hope this helps.
Jim
:shades:
Jim
LINK: http://www.carcomplaints.com/Volkswagen/Passat/2003/engine/engine_failure_from_o- il_sludge.shtml
Robb :shades:
FWIW, the following list identifies the currently available oils that are certified to meet 502.00 (or better):
http://www.audiusa.com/etc/medialib/cms4imp/audi2/aoa/company/aoa-specific.Par.0- - 023.File.pdf
Best regards,
Shipo
I bought a 2001 passat with 84K for my son.Then I had my son keep records on oil change intervals. We used Amsoil and their filters. At 117,000 the engine sensors showed NO OIL PRESSURE. Then it did te thing these engines are famous for.
THen the dealership in Eua Claire did the $3,900.00 repair on the engine and it is great to this day.
I got catigated by the "upper powers to be" of this website for my backing the REAL benifits if using Amsoil because of the political position of most of the UPPER NOSINGNESS of the administrators of this website, because they said Amsoil did nor apear on VW's approved List. However Just call the Eua Claire dealership and ask for Joe9 Theservice manager) and ask him agour David from Columbus, Ohio and ask him about me.
HE WILL LET YOU KNOW THAT AMSOIL WILL BE OK IF YOU HAVE YOUR RECORDS.
SUMMARY: Originally thought it was just a problem with the valve cover and oil got into spark plugs. Rear timing chain failure, intake camshaft failed and key way on timing belt pulley broken. #4 cam bearing burned and scored from lack of lubrication or oil pressure. The oil mark in the engine is at the full mark but very dirty.
QUESTION: Is this possibly related to the sludge problem I have been reading about and if so, how can I prove it. :sick:
Ask for Joe the service manager and find out for yourself. This dealership did over $3,900.00 worth of work (under warrenty)on the 2001 Passat that I bought that had 84K on it when purchased. Then failed at 117K. JUST BECAUSE I KEPT GOOD RECORDS AND USED AMSOIL. Until you do that is the argument that you are using against the use of Amsoil is bogus !
Mister shipo MAN UP and make the call !
For that fact call anyone call and see !
The dealership in Brookpark, Ohio (GANLEY VW) the dealedship in Columbus, Ohio (BYERS) they all say the same thing. Come on MAN UP !
You keep saying the same thing. If anyone wants to call then let them! and report back.
I know this is not a popular issue when you go against a MODERATOR of a thread but if you are going to say I am wrong then I would say that you must do your research and keep enphasizing the fact that also people need to do their research and MAN UP. I have never heard you tell someone CALL THE DEALERSHIP AND FIND OUT! 715-830-1111. Call AMSOIL and MAN UP! Ask the question folks ! It is a great oil and educate yourself.
Why not try to find REAL info.
Long story short, Amsoil is NOT approved for use in any VW sold in America. If you care to counter, point me to a place where specific language (in writing) can be found that says so. Come on, your turn to MAN UP.
http://www.audiusa.com/etc/medialib/cms4imp/audi2/aoa/company/aoa-specific.Par.0- 023.File.pdf
Best regards,
Shipo
Jim :shades:
1.8T is supposed to use only oil meeting VW502.00 spec and only synthetic oils meet this requirement.
Was timing belt replaced? Manual says 105K miles but it seems that older Passats with less miles had belt snapped. I would probably tow it to mechanic to have it done.
Krzys
A couple of years ago I was concerned about sludge because of a code set in the computer calling the cam chain tensioner into question. I resisted the diagnosis that that device needed to be replaced because it is a $750+ part not including the labor to replace it. And that the code referenced an electrical problem not mechanical. I got the AutoRX product and ran it through a couple of times. I even took the oil filter apart to see what that stuff had loosened up. Nothing. The filter was very clean. I dismissed the theory that sludge was a problem in this car.
I replaced the timing belt at 87K miles then again at 158K. I did have the heater core replaced in December.
Just before replacing the timing belt in December I replaced relay 30 in the box where the computer is located. This was recommended in a web search I did referencing the "cam chain tensioner circuit open" error code. I have not had the cam chain tensioner code since.
I am not a mechanic but my job requires diagnostic and problem isolation skills. I would not think that changing the oil from standard oil to synthetic would be a problem. However, I would recommend changing the oil more often than the recommended interval for the synthetic for at least 3 changes. Also, in these changes be sure to change the filter as well. The synthetic oil will likely loosen any existing sludge and you will want to change the filter to get this out of the system.
Insert standard disclaimer text here... seriously I hope this helps you make an informed decision. And best of luck with your Passat.
Jim
:shades:
Now...I don't drive the thing that much. The interior is spotless, has the wood trim, sunroof, a spoiler; the paint on the hood and on the spoiler is in pretty crappy condition (the selling dealership must have had a good 5mm of wax on it when I bought it, because it did not look that bad for about a month. Capistrano VW-use at your own risk.) The only huge problem is the oil issue.
I don't know enough about cars to know whether this is an issue the car is stuck with, or whether "cleaning the pickup screen" absolves it from future sludge as long as I keep putting premium gas and synthetic 5w-40 in it.. At this point I just do not want to give VWoA any more of my Visa transactions, because I'm long past can't-afford-this-car. I'm planning on getting a hyundai or mazda or toyota - something nice and easy and simple (as fun as the turbo has been) - should I just be able to trade this in or am I really stuck now?
Don't quote me on this, but I'd look into it with VWoA. You can read it here:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/Altair4/SludgeLetter1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/Altair4/SludgeLetter2.jpg
It's possible that your vehicle has gone beyond the 8 yr period. I'm very close myself.
One day, while driving from work to home, I had that very alarming message show up on my instrument panel. I stopped and checked the oil level and it was fine. I let the car sit for a short while, then started it and drove the 55 miles home without further incident.
Ultimately the crank shaft position sensor was replaced and I never saw that message again. This is a relatively inexpensive repair because the sensor is outside the 1.8T engine on the drivers side. I think the entire job cost me around $200 a couple of years ago.
In my earlier post I mentioned "Relay 30". After replacing the "relay 30" I never saw the cam tensioner message again either. (A solder joint inside that relay was faulty.)
The oil filler cap shows no sludge. And looking at what lifters that can be seen through the oil filler opening there is no sludge to be seen there either. The dipstick also shows no sign of sludge.
If you get a mechanic that is good at reading the fault codes and researching the symptoms I think you will find that car will do fine.
I also think that running the car long enough to get the engine heated completely to operating temperature and running for an hhour or so at operating temperature would be a good idea from time to time.
If you are still going to sell the car I don't think you will have any trouble. I find mine to be very reliable. The VW garage here is very good, I have a good service advisor, who I trust and mechanic. I really think that is half the battle in keeping a reliable vehicle.
Jim
:shades: