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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Engine and Underhood Problems

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Comments

  • wmcksmithwmcksmith Member Posts: 3
    Engine skipping is about the best way for me to describe this problem. It is on my 03 s-10. It only happens when I am at low RPMs and I'm putting my truck in a little bit of a strain. I've replaced the plugs/wires, catalytic converter (took it out), and fuel filter. I have tried these things and nothing has cured it.
  • wmcksmithwmcksmith Member Posts: 3
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    I don't know if the 03's still had distributors or not but a bad cap can cause that. A weak coil or dirty fuel injector can also cause the same symptoms you described. I have a 93 with the 4.3L and every so often I have to pull the cap and rotor and scrape the corrosion with a pocket knife. :)
  • pete_misikpete_misik Member Posts: 3
    Hi all,
    I have a 98 S-10 2.2L with 199K+, and I've had the dreaded oil-drip for quite some time. I know that it's getting worse and it looks to be the rear main. (Dramatic pause)
    I've packed my lunch and told everyone not to bother me for the weekend. It appears to be major surgery here. I was hoping that someone had some tips and tricks on making the process a little smoother.

    Thanks for the help.

    -Pete
  • pete_misikpete_misik Member Posts: 3
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Recommend before you start to hose down the exhaust pipe bolts and nuts with PB Blaster. It might keep you from twisting them off, (Ouch). :)
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Rent a transmission jack.
  • pete_misikpete_misik Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the advice.

    -Pete
  • fudogfudog Member Posts: 3
    2002 GMC Sonoma 82,000 miles 2.2 Engine
    Distributorless ignition. Developed a clattering in the engine that sounds like it is coming from the valve train area. This has been going on for months and it is getting louder, now there is a vibration accompanying the noise. The engine has excellent oil pressure, runs cool and has new plugs and wires. While at idle the noise is minimal but increases when RPM is at 2000 and above. Has anyone had this similar problem? I have tried using high test gasoline, injector cleaner besides the new plugs and wires. Any advise would be appreciated.
  • drwright1drwright1 Member Posts: 2
    These 2.2L were real bad about breaking the timing chain tensioner. Probably need a chain and gear set. Tensioner should come with it.

    Doc
  • fudogfudog Member Posts: 3
  • fudogfudog Member Posts: 3
    One mechanic said that could be the problem and one mechanic told told me that is not the problem. The sound does not sound like it is coming from that area though. I will consider it, thanks.
  • shamrock1014shamrock1014 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 GMC Sonoma. It started up normally this morning but about 20 minutes into my drive to work, the engine started "sputtering" when I gave it gas and truck started shaking and the Check Engine Light started to flash. Problem?
  • john180john180 Member Posts: 2
    If it was a damp or rainy day I'd check your plug wires.They are in behind the wheels and get wet very easily.If this is the case spray the plug wires and caps with some sort of silicone based spray.
  • halfstickhalfstick Member Posts: 4
    With warmer weather the front of the engine has begun to whine pretty loud. Removed the fan
    belt, no change. The whine varies opposite load (ie quieter with acceleration). We had a
    warm day during a cold week and the noise started for the first time. It went away again
    with the cold. Sounds like one of those toy cars where you rip the cord to start a wheel
    spinning then launch the car on the ground. Any thoughts on the source of this? I love this truck.
  • jayme4jayme4 Member Posts: 2
  • jayme4jayme4 Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I just had the EGR vavle replaced and now when I accelerate, it ticks - a clicky ticking (not the ticking the lifters make) and when you accelerate harder or need power to go uphill you can hear suction sounds. This tick actually sounds like its coming right out of the vents, so it seems to me it's coming from the valve or nearby. The more I accelerate, the louder/faster the tick. When the suction sound starts, I back off becuase I don't know what will happen and I don't want to make matters worse. If I'm idling or coasting, no strange sounds - it never did anything like this until I picked it up from having the EGR valve put in. And the hose that holds the PCV valve was replaced too. It was recently 'plugged in' and it's diagnosis was the egr valve, no other problems. Please help :) I really need my truck and am looking to have to take it to a shop now and don't want to get repairs I don't need. A friend put the valve in - could something be hooked up wrong? The engine is a Chevy S10 6 cyl. 4.3 automatic. Thank you very much
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Maybe it was a faulty EGR valve right out of the box. Rent or borrow a vacuume hand pump to trouble shoot the diaphragm on the EGR valve, and the vacuume lines also. I assume you used a new gasket on it when you replaced the old EGR valve. Let us know what you find out. Good luck :)
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Is there any way someone could have ran over something and it got caught up and wrapped around something? Maybe some plastic or some kind of wire? Good luck :)
  • sickshoesbrahsickshoesbrah Member Posts: 14
    Actually my truck is doing this to. When i first start my engine, when it is cold, and rev my engine a few times it will whine, but only for a few revs and it will rev itself out. I dont think it is the belts. I have replaced my belts recently. It may just be the weather because it has never done this to me before. My buddy has a late eighties Cadillac and his did it all the time, and when he got a new radiator it fixed the squeal. So any help getting this solved before it turns into an actual problem will help.
  • halfstickhalfstick Member Posts: 4
    I'll check out the debris issue around the crank pulley. The more i think about this the more I'm thinking timing chain gears or tensioner. The noise is also similar to a dentist drill. A little heavier. Thanks for your input.
  • halfstickhalfstick Member Posts: 4
    I removed my belt prior to starting diconnecting all other spinning stuff and pulleys. For me the sound doesn't go away, it just fades with load. With the belt off you can check bearings on all those pulleys.
  • halfstickhalfstick Member Posts: 4
  • sickshoesbrahsickshoesbrah Member Posts: 14
    I very much doubt that it is debris if it is doing the same thing as mine. Mine just sounds like the belts rubbing on something, but i know that they are not.
  • sickshoesbrahsickshoesbrah Member Posts: 14
    So Im driving around town about three months ago. Keeping in mind that i was looking for a truck to dink around in and play with. I drive by this '85 S15 4X4 with the 2.8 and i picked it up for a cool 300 from an older gentleman that had bought it new, never drove it in the winter, it has only surface rust. 137k, brand new Hankook tires, 2 year old radiator, 4 year old alternator, new battery, new bed liner and a full tank of gas ;).

    What I did to it:

    Right away i had to fix a bad oil leak, changed the plugs and had to replace the water pump, it was backfiring out of the carb-fixed that, the linkage was all messed up so you had to jam it into park-fixed that, the previous owner had a lifetime warranty on a muffler from 91, so i had him sign that over to me, so that was free to replace. All in all i dropped about $300 into it.

    My questions are:

    I have quite a rough idle, im going to replace the distributor cap and plug wires here shortly, any other suggestions to help smooth that out?

    My drivers side door window keeps braking the clip that holds it from falling forward, i've changed it numerous times, it will work for about a week, then it will just break again... and its pissing me off, what can I do?

    Basically the only spot that is rusted through is a corner of the drivers floor panel, exsposing the carpet ans such. What can I do to patch that up?

    As it is about to shift into third gear, it will make a odd sort of over revving noise, but it appears to only do it when it is about to shift into third, any ideas?
  • sknnytnysknnytny Member Posts: 3
    i have a S10 blazer having a problem keeping it running right i've changed plugs, wires, cap and rotor and ive changed the fuel pump and sending unit but it still hezertates and dies
  • sknnytnysknnytny Member Posts: 3
    hi my name is tony and i have a 93 that is doing the same thing i was woundering if u found the problem please call (617)281-5590
  • madminimummadminimum Member Posts: 2
  • sknnytnysknnytny Member Posts: 3
    i have a 93 blazer with a 4.3 vortec and im having a problem keeping it running and when i get it running it bogs like it aint getting enough gas ive already changed the pugs, wires, cap, rotor, throto sensor,ditributor modual,and the gas pump and sending unit can any1 help
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Checked for plugged cat converter.Unbolt the pipe before the cat and then see how it runs.
  • lonewolf147lonewolf147 Member Posts: 4
  • lonewolf147lonewolf147 Member Posts: 4
    I saw on here a message about an s10 that was sputtering and making noise at idle. I'm having a similar problem and have already put a lot of money in trying to figure it out.

    Only when at speed and trying to maintain, my engine stutters. A computer check says that #2 and #3 are misfiring. I've recently had a new fuel pump installed, new plugs and wires, a new #2/#3 ignition coil and had the injectors all professionally cleaned (not just fuel additives). My regular mechanic is stumped and I can't afford to give my truck over to a dealership for several days of diagnosing right now.

    The stuttering does not occur at idle, acceleration or deceleration. It even stutters while on cruise, but not nearly as much. It seems that the instant you release pressure on the gas peddle (while maintaining speed, or during shifting) is when it seems to occur.

    Any one have some ideas?

    Thanks
  • sickshoesbrahsickshoesbrah Member Posts: 14
    ok..
  • sickshoesbrahsickshoesbrah Member Posts: 14
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Sounds like a nice fix it-upper. About the transmission, it might be worth while to check out the vacuume modulator. Sometimes they wear out or the vacuume line gets old and leaks. Its not that difficult to change out even if it is bad. Good luck Brah. :)
  • sickshoesbrahsickshoesbrah Member Posts: 14
    First off, my blinkers have quit working on my 85 gmc s15 w/ the 2.8 v6. They have acted up for a while, like they would work when they wanted to, but now they dont work at all. The fuse is not blown, and the bulbs are new.

    Second, if i "pump" my gas at all while driving at slow speeds in reverse it will act like it wants to stall out, and sometimes it will. Could this be a fuel filter issue? because that brings me to my next question, how do I change that?

    My truck seems to be running very hot, coolant levels are good, oil levels are good, and my radiator is only like 2 years old. Even my hood will be to hot to touch sometimes.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    You might want to have a look at our general Maintenance & Repair board, since you've got a work in progress!

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  • s10frustrations10frustration Member Posts: 3
  • dws1dws1 Member Posts: 1
    My isuzu d-max pick-up is too bouncy for the passenger sitting on the back seat even when im driving on a paved road. Has anybody changed leaf spring of shocks on your d-max? Can you tell me what brand and model?
  • czbillczbill Member Posts: 2
    I have a '92 S-10 Sonoma with 51,000 original miles. It is a 4.3 V-6, 5 speed standard transmission, extended cab. Has A/C, PB & PS and not miuch else. Every 4-6 month the truck starts running a little rough, even with the A/C off. After about a week or so of this, it won't start, cranks fine but no spark and no TBI fuel being injected. On rare occasions, such as yesterday, I can let the truck sit for a couple of hours, and after moving and fiddlng with the two module connections, the truck will start. It made it home, stalling twice but restarting. Today it won't start for anything no matter what is done to the connectors.

    Every time this happens, I install a new ignition module and everything is fine for another few months. This is a problem of the last two years or so, before it was perfect. I have replaced 4 modules in the last 18 months.

    The plugs are relatively new, the wires the same. Have run the truck at night with the hood up, don't see any sparks or lights. The ignition module connectors have been cleaned and lubricated, they are tight when installed. The proper grease is used under the module, it is tightened evenly and snugly, but not overtightened.

    Does anyone have a similar experience or see something I am missing?

    Thanks.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Your might try testing the fuel pressure with a gage to make sure your fuel pump is OK. :)
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Are you using after market modules, try a GM one, I know it will be more but better quality.
  • czbillczbill Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the suggestions. I am sure the fuel pump is working, I have already verified lack of both spark and fuel injection when this problem occurs.

    No, I have not been using GM modules, although the last one was a standard, which was known as a good brand in the past. I will try a GM ($$) module.
  • skohanskskohansk Member Posts: 6
    Bought a Ext 1991 Sonoma 4.3L 4x4 last year with 47k on the motor and tranny. Starts up great, sounds great, drives great, but the thing has no balls. Low end is powerfull especially in 4wd but to have the power that a 4.3 should on the street, i'm at a loss. Any idea's?
    Steve
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Sorry for late reply, been away. I would check for a plugged cat converter.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    A plugged cat converter makes it feel like your pulling an anchor. I have a 92 4.3z. Once I had a hidden vacuum leak that caused it to run like it was on Tylenol PM. After I corrected the leak (a cracked plastic fitting), it ran great. Good luck :)
  • lonewolf147lonewolf147 Member Posts: 4
    Still hoping that someone can give me some ideas...
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Lone wolf - I’m assuming you have a four cylinder, stick shift. Sounds like you’ve already spent a ton of money on new parts and labor. We've all been there and I understand the frustration.

    Your symptoms sound just the reverse of most problematic engines. My experience with faulty primary or secondary ignition components have been that it acts up the most under load. Same with dirty fuel injector. Ordinarily though, when you have those types of problems, it smooths out to some degree when you let up on the gas.

    Is it possible it’s got a faulty fuel pressure regulator?

    Keep the faith. :)
  • lonewolf147lonewolf147 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply. I'll check on the FPR and see what turns up. Now, personally I don't know where the FPR is located. Is it part of the Fuel Sending Unit? Because I've had that replaced already.
  • goracingoracin Member Posts: 2
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