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Comments
I would be buying from Carmax so it sounds like the CPO is out of the question.
I am not a believer in buying extended warranties but I have heard that Carmax offers a competitive one for Bimmers (the buyer goes to a BMW dealership and carmax pays them). We do have a great private shop that specializes in BMWs in my town so I really need to get a good handle on what I can project costs to be since the car would be out of warranty.
My experience is to budget $1500 per year for maintenance. I did not purchase extended warranties or maintenance plans and I paid $1400 for services and repairs that would have been covered by either. All warranty and maintenance plans have profits and commissions included in their cost. Most people will come out ahead self insuring.
Given that the car is at 31k miles, what are the immediate service steps I would have to take? It seems that the first major service would be due, I imagine that the previous owner did not take care of it right before getting rid of the car.
Do the manuals have any differences in services?
I have the oil changed at 7500 mile intervals, brake fluid every 2 years, power steering fluid every 3 years and coolant every 4 years. With previous cars with automatic transmissions, I change transmission fluid every 30,000 miles. My guess is it is time to do everything. At 30k I also changed the air filter and micro filter.
Check Bimmer or Roundel, Tech Reporter, for maintenance recommendations.
Did you drive the car? I also drive a 6-spd accord sedan. I recently test drove a 330Ci automatic and thought, even with the auto, it blows the doors off my Accord. Its not all about HP numbers. What I find with my Accord is that the power is pretty peaky. Not as bad as some cars, but it certainly pales in comparison to the fat wide power curve of the BMW.
Not to mention the Accord is VERY hard to launch in a manner that we would ever see the published 5.9 sec 0-60 number due to the aforementioned peakiness and the total lack of traction that FWD provides on acceleration. It is probably more like 6.5 secs. The 5-series is a bit heavier than the 3'er I drove, but I still think you will be more than happy ... especially when you hit any turns.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I hope to test drive late next week.
I have a great commute, approx 70 miles at an average of 70mph with some twisty stuff. That is why I am so tempted to get out of the 'sensible' car I am in and into a potentially expensive and risky choice.
CPO 2005 545i -- 42,000 miles
Orient Blue Metallic/Beige Dakota Leather
Premium Sound Pkg
Cold Weather Pkg
Sport Pkg.
Navigation
Power fold-down rear seats
New tires & car is in excellent condition
Clean carfax (no accidents -- this is also a requirement to be CPO)
I bought it for $34,400 + tax/tag/title, which is nearly $10,000 less than the value stated by Edmunds and Kelly Blue Book. I don't know if it's typical "buyer's remorse" (how could it be with this beautiful of a car?), but I am hoping someone can tell me that I just got a great deal and be happy with it. Thanks.
Since you went CPO, you have very little risk in terms of repair issues. It seems like you got a great deal and a great car.
Anyway, thanks again for the response.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I'm hoping to get some advice on buying a used BMW 545i. First of all, it is black w/ the beige leather, full options, heads up display and only 32k miles on it. It was a lease return but is NOT CPO. The full service warranty is up this year in 9/08 and the carfax report shows it was maintained regularly and had no prior damages. Paint, rims, body, etc. are all immaculate. I am a first time BMW buyer so I want to ask the forum, Do you think this is a good deal for $32,500.00? Please let me know if I can expect to have any problems after the full service warranty is up although I plan to buy the extended 100k warranty.
Thanks for your help in advance!!
Don't forget that a full 100k warranty will add about 2k.
Most on this forum are BMW fans so I don't think you will hear much on the cars being unreliable.
There is also a comprehensive service manual available from Bentley if you want to tackle some projects yourself- it's an easy car to work on.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I'm considering purchase of a 2001 525 with only 17,000 miles which is selling for $20,000. Its being sold by a reputable non-BMW dealer. The CARFAX report identifies it as a one-owner vehicle which has had regular maintenance. Its owner apparently lived in Washington DC and drove the car infrequently. I had several questions which I thought you might be able to help me with:
1. Are there mechanical or body discrepancies that I should be on the lookout for in purchasing a vehicle such as this which has been driven infrequently?
2. I've seen the EPA mileage estimates (19/27), but I was wondering what kind of mileage I could actually expect with relatively conservative city/highway driving?
3. Is it OK to use regular unleaded rather than the recommended premium fuel? I've heard that for high compression engines you can place an additive in the fuel that has the same effect as higher octane grades.
4. Are there any significant maintenance or reliability problems with this model?
5. Are there any problems with using certain aftermarket parts rather than BMW parts?
Thank you for this forum....its been very informative.
Steve
Yes, there are issues with engine oil (one year), brake fluid (two years), and coolant (four years, errr, I think) that are age and not mileage sensitive. You should be asking for a full service record for the car.
2. I've seen the EPA mileage estimates (19/27), but I was wondering what kind of mileage I could actually expect with relatively conservative city/highway driving?
With my 2002 530i 5-Speed I was able to handily beat the EPA mileage estimates for both city and highway, in fact, I was able to routinely get over 30 mpg on the highway.
3. Is it OK to use regular unleaded rather than the recommended premium fuel? I've heard that for high compression engines you can place an additive in the fuel that has the same effect as higher octane grades.
Is it okay? Yes and no. If you want to run Regular gasoline, you should be looking at a Honda, Toyota, Lincoln, Chrysler or Cadillac. FWIW, while the engine will run on Regular fuel, your fuel economy will drop to such an extent that your fuel cost per mile will actually be higher than if you just ran Premium in the first place. FWIW #2, BMW does NOT recommend using ANY fuel additives.
4. Are there any significant maintenance or reliability problems with this model?
No, not really.
5. Are there any problems with using certain aftermarket parts rather than BMW parts?
Parts? What kind of parts?
Best Regards,
Shipo
No. IIRC, all 540i Sports get a 3.15 final drive as well as a 155 mph limiter(non Sports get a 2.81 ratio and a 128 mph top). As far as M Sport packages go, there's no such thing when it comes to US spec cars- there are only Sport Packages. BMW has a penchant for adding a few additional ///M touches to Sport Pkg. cars towards the end of their model run, as in the case of the E36/5, the E36 328is Sport, the E39 540i Sport, and the E46 ZHP. People sometimes call them M Sports because there are similar packages offered across the pond, but-aside from a few E36/5 and E34 cars built by BMW Individual in the 90's-BMW NA has simply called them Sport Packages.
Also what effect does this have on MPG?
Who cares? I'll trade mpg for added thrust all day long.
And one more thing...
Buy a six speed manual.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
My father is the original owner of a 2001 BMW 530 with just under 40,000 miles. He is going to sell it, and I'm interested in buying it. He has purchased 1 year warranties twice now from BMW, which have since expired, and he's been told by BMW that he cannot purchase another.
If I purchase this car I will do so only if I can also purchase an extended warranty. I called my local BMW dealer to see if I could purchase a warranty from them, and they said I could only purchase it if the car had originally been purchased from them. That is not the case, so I believe I need to get a 3rd party warranty.
I've done some reading on purchasing extended warranties that cover both wear and tear, as well as mechanical breakdowns. Does anyone have any advice on reputable companies that I can get a quote from? Any advice on the length of the warranty I should get? Can I even get coverage for this type of vehicle and, if I can, is it even worth it (ie will I get nickle and dimed in the fine print and not qualify for repairs)?
Any advice or experience is most welcome.
Thanks!
The following suggestions are based on my experience running a 1997 528iA from 2001 to 2005:
1. Forget any non-BMW NA warranty. They are glorified insurance policies. The House almost always wins.
2. Set aside $80-$90 a month for service/repairs
3. Find a good independent BMW tech, which will cut service costs @30%-40%.
4. Join the BMW Car Club. Receive up to a 20% discount on parts and/or labor.
5. Enjoy owning and driving a world class sports sedan.
6. (Optional) Buy the E39 Bentley Service Manual and learn to perform simple maintenance and repairs-oil change, brake pads, plugs, etc.-yourself. And save even more money.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Thanks!
1. What years to avoid based on major engine problems? I have heard about engine failures, cylinder heads problems, oil leaks etc.
2. What years are best to purchase in the under $15,000 range with under 100k miles?
3. What is the typical routine maintinance cost of ownership for a 540 that is in good condition and has been maintained?
4. How many miles do 540's last for under normal driving conditions and proper maintinance?
5. Is the 530 a more reliable car?
Also how can I tell from a photo if the sound system is Premium Sound?
Hope this helps.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Have you listened to the "Premium Sound" system? To my ears it doesn't sound all that great. Bavarian Soundwerks sells a speaker upgrade package for the E39 that is an easy afternoon DIY project. For $450 that is the route I would take.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
My E39 has the premium sound. The best thing about it is that the EQ settings are pretty extensive, and allow some decent customization. Most people don't adjust anything there. I also upgraded the speakers using one of Bav Soundwerk's kits, and now it sounds even better.
My wife's E39 had the DSP as well, I finally found a guy on BMWTips.com who had spent some time with a Rat Shack spl meter and a calibration CD. I set the equalizer to his recommendations and the result was a much better sound. Still not that great though. In all honesty, I thought the premium system in my E36/7 sounded much better- though I am planning to fit it with the BSW midranges and tweeters.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I leased a 2005 545i back in July 2005 for 3 years and got a great deal: 0.001 (2.4% interest) money factor and a great cap. cost with no money down, 36,000 miles allowed.
The car has performed flawlessly-no mechanical or electrical issues. No dings. Looks as good as new.
I get an incredible 21 mpg out of the wonderful V8. The vehicle only has 23,000 miles.
It has Steptronic transmission and comfort seats. No sport package.
I just put new Contis on and it rides better than ever!
The buyout on my contract is $34,320 which I consider a bit "high!"
I really hate to give this baby back which has performed flawlessly with much fewer miles on it than the 36,000 that is allowed.
I have always leased BMW's since 1993.
Would it be wise to CPO the 545i and buy it? If I do so, would I be in a good position to negotiate a lower price than the $34,320 with my dealer? Would he rather "deal" with me than take the car back at lease termination? Any wiggle room here?
From BMWNA's website, they finance 2005 CPO 5 Series at 3.9%. I believe it costs around $1400 to CPO the vehicle.
Or, should I just forget all this, give the 545i back and move on to the next lease which more than likely would be a 3 Series? The run-flats, however, would be a huge turnoff for me on the 3 Series.
I have only been driving around 9000 miles per year, so excessive maintenance costs with the 545i shouldn't be an issue. But, who knows?
I am open to any and all suggestions.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Sounds like I have quite a bit of wiggle room if I show the dealer I will walk if he won't negotiate the residual down. I already put new Contis on several weeks ago for a little over $800. Leasing would be really terrific if one didn't have to shell out for new tires before turn in. At least I will have 5 months of use from them if I decide to turn the 545i back in to BMW.
Leasing 3 Series vehicles is even worse now. The run-flats that must be replaced on turn in cost around $1200 per set.
There are so many new vehicles out there that I can lease or buy so I can afford to float a low ball offer for the 545i. If he takes it fine. If not, no big deal.
Maybe, maybe not. BMWs are notorious for having power steering hoses that leak or seep. Often a low pressure hose can be fixed by removing the crimped-on clamp and replacing it with a good screw clamp. If it does turn out that you do need a steering rack, there are several shops that sell rebuilt racks for less than the factory units(another reason to join BMW CCA).
ATF/drive oil change (wondering if that's expensive)
Not really; my local dealer changed the ATF and transfer case fluid on my wife's X3 for $208. In your case I'd say that $400 would be the most it would cost to service both the AT and the final drive. That said, I'd strongly advise that you use a good dealer or BMW independent shop for the transmission service, as the procedure is fairly involved- as can be seen here.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
No problem; ask away! And you can always shoot me a PM at roadburner@carspace.com...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I look forward to any replies.
If the car checks out fine AND you have average or better DIY mechanic skills and tools then I would say go for it. If you will have to pay for all maintenance and repairs it could be very expensive to own. DO NOT even THINK about buying the car without having it inspected by a tech who knows BMWs. It might be a decent enough deal, but you need to have all the data in front of you before you can make an informed decision.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I have neevr driven a Manualdo you thinkthis would be a issue?
Also I have heard that the drive mode on the SMG is not that good is that true?
While I am driving in the Stick mode do I have to change the stick myself or does the car do it automatically?
Would appricate your help
Best Regards,
Shipo
40k miles
Cold Weather Package
Premium Package
Heated Steering Wheel
Navigation
Bluetooth
We are at $27.5 in the negotiations. I think the dealer can do more but they insist they can't. Do you think this is a good deal?